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And you have to turn the knob, and turn the knob, and turn the knob. The gearing is such that it takes dozens of revolutions to get the light up.
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# ¿ May 17, 2014 19:40 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 06:30 |
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that doesn't show launch control, it just shows backfiring...
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# ¿ May 20, 2014 21:18 |
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blk posted:I wonder if I should buy this, pull the LSD and swap the wheels (my rears are a little untrue and not perfectly righted with counterweighting) and resell the car. http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/4488873525.html Solid idea.
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# ¿ May 27, 2014 01:16 |
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blk posted:Edit: drat, ad was taken down even though I was supposedly going to be the first person to see it tomorrow. Rule number 1 of craigslist -- have cash, be there right away. Anything else will result in you losing out on deals.
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# ¿ May 27, 2014 17:30 |
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God damnit, if I wasn't feeling lazy today... https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4496074062.html
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# ¿ May 30, 2014 21:43 |
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jfreder posted:How good of a deal is that? I live quite nearby... I tossed him a 3k offer, because I'm lazy and want guaranteed equity. With the options, it's in all probability got a Torsen, and if it's a true no-rust car, there's $1.5-2k there just from a cleanup and couple-hudnred-dollar PDR bill.
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# ¿ May 30, 2014 22:34 |
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leica posted:Why would you by an entire car for two pieces? You can get a Torsen and a bumper cover anywhere. Done properly, he could swap the two parts he wants from car #2, then sell car #2 for a profit. And yes, blk, the Torsens are stout and will hold up with that kind of mileage.
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# ¿ Jun 1, 2014 00:07 |
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leica posted:Sounds like a lot of hassle for not much profit though. Waste of time IMO. The '94 looks like the guy is getting tired of trying to sell it. $2800 cash thrown at him would probably take the car. Swap Torsen, front bumper cover and top (new top with glass window on the '94 versus blk's old one with patched hole). Sell the car as a quick take-me-away for $2500 and have the car as blk wants it for a few hundred, or the LSD and new top for less than what he's looking at for just the bumper cover.
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# ¿ Jun 1, 2014 00:13 |
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blk posted:My top is actually perfect; you may be thinking of the S2k I was looking at with the patch. Yep, I must have gotten it confused with one you were looking at, or another one someone else got. So yeah, if the Torsen is the only good part out of it, not high on the cost/benefit ratio.
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# ¿ Jun 1, 2014 11:01 |
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'Fess up, who is it? http://www.break.com/video/guy-cheats-on-wife-wife-destroys-car-2617641#break-top-comments
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# ¿ Jun 7, 2014 23:27 |
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blk posted:2) Does anyone else have more panel gap between their hood and closed popup light on one side than the other? I've seen this on other NAs, and I have a little bit on mine. It's like the hood arcs up just a little bit above the line with the closed popup light. I told you that when you first showed the pictures. Common thing with Miatas. GENTLY pull up on the lip of the headlight that hangs out on its own at the top of the lid. Pull it until it lines up with the hood. It makes a HUGE difference in looks when it's properly aligned. With the hangy-out part, it's easy to lean on it or against it when you're under the hood... a lot of them have pushed-down lids.
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2014 00:55 |
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Goober Peas posted:Something is wrong if they're filling up with junk that fast. Or they were seriously packed and this second clog is residual crap. How much water did you put through after you got the drains clear, Rhyno?
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2014 00:54 |
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Twerk from Home posted:Thanks! I've done 3 Miata top replacements, a buddy has an extra set of seats out of a '96, I don't care about the interior being torn up, and that looks like a good chance to learn to sand and paint. I'll go wave some cash at him and call him on slapping a new head on the same tired old block. Here's hoping I don't get staph from the seat. That looks like the perfect car for your needs. If it's rust-free (in Texas, not much of an issue), a running shell is a great start to a project.
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# ¿ Jul 7, 2014 21:14 |
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FatCow posted:Because the soul of the NA/NB Miata is clearly the glorious BP lump. A motor so well-suited to turbocharging that it was literally designed for it. A motor so well-suited to bolt-ons that a couple thousand dollars will net you fully double (plus) the original output and give it to you reliably for 100k miles. A motor that sucks so badly in its standard form that nobody expects a Miata would ever be quick, giving an inherent sleeper quality. Yep, BPs suck.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2014 12:36 |
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Kill-9 posted:My son picked up his first car this weekend. That's a great first car. Reliable, easy to work on, good parts availability, not a lot of power but fun to drive... good choice.
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2014 17:48 |
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turdriver posted:Hello Miata friends! Should I sell my Miata? If you can get that kind of money for it, I'd say you were way ahead.
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2014 21:33 |
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Most people remove weight from underpowered sports cars.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2014 01:46 |
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A 1/2" cut in the lining and you could run the signal cable fully hidden. It'd look a ton cleaner.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2014 23:03 |
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A MIRACLE posted:So I live in Colorado where apparently you need a front license plate. But my NA doesn't seem to have a mount for it, well it has these two tab thingies but they won't fit to my plate. Also, I don't wanna put a plate right in front of the radiator. Is there like a way to mount a plate over on the side, near one of the baby teeth bits? Look at m.net, there's a dozen different ways people have done it over the years.
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# ¿ Aug 6, 2014 22:53 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Everyone's probably seen this by now: Well that's not a Z3 hardtop with trunk lip spoiler at all.
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# ¿ Aug 11, 2014 17:54 |
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destructo posted:
You're half way there... well, almost... depending on the years, you're lacking Silver, Yellow, Black and BRG.
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2014 19:39 |
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A MIRACLE posted:Does $1000 parts and labor seem fair for a timing belt replacement on my NA? The estimate includes cam seals, water pump, drive belt, valve gasket, crank seal, thermostat, and coolant replacement. $520 for labor, $458 for parts. Shop said it takes the better part of a day. No, that sounds utterly ridiculous. Buy the parts yourself for $200 and learn to DIY. Pocket $800 and gain knowledge. Edit: Hell, looking at this: http://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-TBK179WP2-Mazda-Timing-Water/dp/B007P72GT4 parts would be less than $125...
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# ¿ Aug 18, 2014 20:12 |
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Bovril Delight posted:Just a couple more days for the ND reveal lads, and lots and lots of meltdowns online. Phone posted:The overflow is an essential part of the system. I read these two posts together.
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# ¿ Sep 1, 2014 20:13 |
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Still better than NB/NC/ND/Nx.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2014 11:01 |
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revmoo posted:The thing that annoys me the most is that we (America) want to dump billions of dollars into things like rearview cameras and TPMS and yet we don't want to invest anything at all into driver training. It makes no sense at all. You clearly don't understand "gently caress you, got mine."
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2014 19:14 |
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Am I the only one that thinks it looks like a cross between a BMW Z3/4 and a BRZ without a top? Either way, it looks very safe and derivative to me.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2014 21:19 |
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quackman posted:I saw some BRZ-ness in the hood-fender top bulge almost right away. Where do you see Z3/4ness? Rear and rear 3/4 view.
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2014 23:08 |
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Granite Octopus posted:Thanks to some relentless thieves in the area, I've purchased a GPS/mobile tracking alarm module for my NB. (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131237241872?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) You've got a spot pre-made for it behind the seats. Underneath the stamped metal cover under the carpet is a couple nice cavities where nobody would EVER find a tracker, unless they are actively cutting apart the chassis.
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2014 14:05 |
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PeterWeller posted:The US Miata will get the 2.0 as the base engine. ROW will get a smaller base engine with the 2.0 as an upgrade. Same as it ever was. USA gets the good stuff, while the ROW gets screwed. As it should be.
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# ¿ Sep 13, 2014 22:18 |
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Nodoze posted:Passenger seat Either seat if you have the top down and a roll bar.
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2014 21:50 |
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Terrible Robot posted:The first couple years got a 1.6l engine with the weak crank snouts, all the later ones had a 1.8l. Close, the early ones had a small nose crank that had the issues, after 91.5 they changed to a large nose crank, but still the 1.6l motor. The 1.8 came in '93 or '94.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2014 16:28 |
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"Need" is a relative term. I find normally aspirated Miatas to be boring. Even regular supercharged ones are. It's not until the 200+ hp range in a Miata does the car become fun for me (and pushing 300hp is a blast). Is there a need for it? Nope. But for me it takes something that feels like a roofless appliance and changes it into a proper sports car.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2014 16:58 |
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leica posted:I wish it had 95 horsepower just so Miata.net would implode Or 95hp gas motor augmented by a 45hp electric. Hybrid Miata would implode m.net twice as fast.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2014 16:51 |
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leica posted:I wouldn't say I'm a "go to guy" for Miatas, I've just bought and sold so many cars in general that I eventually got good at it I guess. Miatas are pretty easy to gauge buying used but I've even hosed that up before when I failed to notice the loving destroyed rockers on my last Miata. All of those words ring true with me... especially the rockers. On my pristine garage queen.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2014 23:58 |
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destructo posted:
That's purdy.
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2014 12:38 |
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giundy posted:Throwing my 1999 on SA Mart if anyone is interested. Would be nice to sell to a goon instead of Craigslist. You've got pm.
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# ¿ May 29, 2018 08:29 |
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giundy's car took me down a dark road. I'm looking for a Miata, and his is really nice, but as soon as I got it, I'd have to throw a bunch of money into turbocharging it. So I'm looking for a car already turbo'd. As you explore Miata-based stuff on the internet, if you see a well-sorted turbo car (preferably with an FMII kit, that's what I'm most familiar with) in the sub-$8k range, please let me know. I'm in no rush, but my wife just told me that the Avalon I'm using as a beater will be perfect for our son, so I "need" to get a new car. Edit: I prefer a later NA, NB is an option. 1.6 NAs are no-go. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 00:15 on May 30, 2018 |
# ¿ May 30, 2018 00:05 |
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giundy posted:That's part of the reason for parting with it, the turbo bug is expensive, better to let someone else deal with that depreciation if you can trouble shoot it. It's more than a turbo bug, it's a transformative change for the car. As some smart guy said: meatpimp posted:"Need" is a relative term. I find normally aspirated Miatas to be boring. Even regular supercharged ones are. It's not until the 200+ hp range in a Miata does the car become fun for me (and pushing 300hp is a blast). Is there a need for it? Nope. But for me it takes something that feels like a roofless appliance and changes it into a proper sports car.
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# ¿ May 30, 2018 11:48 |
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# ¿ May 16, 2024 06:30 |
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mobby_6kl posted:Not that I disagree, but dumping its own cost in turbo parts into an old car just doesn't seem very appealing to me. Plus I enjoy being able to just drive it at any point (0 days downtime in over 5 years) and not constantly loving around with the bolt-on nonsense. I drove one with a built 1.6 and huge turbo pushing 19psi with over 220k miles on the odometer and it never hiccuped. These cars with turbo motors are no less reliable than stock if they're set up right. The other one I had was stock motor at 15psi and the only time it left me stranded was when I tore the rear end out with a launch. I knew it was the weak link and was just waiting to put a Torsen in it. The only other failure it had was that I tore second gear out of it, but it was able to be driven.
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# ¿ May 31, 2018 00:54 |