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U.S. Barryl posted:We're trying to figure out what to do with our basement walls. The basement doesn't leak as far as I know, and there's no musty smell, so I don't know why the paint is flaking off, bubbling up, and peeling. Perhaps it's just really old paint. It's probably from the 60's. This is exactly what I came in to post; our basement walls look exactly like that. We also have no musty smell in the basement, but cardboard boxes will rot away if left on the floor long enough. Regarding treatment of said walls, is it adequate to simply remove loose paint/material and repaint with something that resists hydrostatic pressure? I was worried that the real solution was digging down the exterior to the footing and sealing the basement from there.
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Dec 9, 2011 21:45
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I am replacing, then extending an existing supply line for an outdoor spigot that runs through a vented crawlspace. The crawlspace vents poorly and we're getting enough moisture to grow trace mold in the insulation between the floor joists above. My main concern is winterizing that line and I'm debating whether I should: A) insulate/heat the crawlspace and install anti-freeze spigots B) leave the crawlspace be and install a stop-and-waste valve inside the main foundation, so I can shut off and drain the line every winter The crawlspace has a single vent, no air movement, and no ground cover or vapor barrier of any sort except what's draped over the joists to stuff insulation in. The moisture problem is exacerbated by the dryer venting into the crawlspace. Since the mold grows along the vector the vent gas takes, it's obviously a big part of the problem.
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Aug 10, 2012 15:03
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About a week ago, I discovered that everything on the top shelf of the fridge froze solid overnight. I also happened to notice that the tiny bit of rum I had left in the freezer that is normally liquid was also frozen. I can't seem to find any information on the internet as to why both of the compartments would be running cold. Just to make sure the vent between the freezer and fridge compartment works okay, I slowly turned the fridge temp down until I felt air moving through the vent. Similarly, turning the temp. up caused the door to close again. It seems like that component functions. At this point, I'm not sure if the freezer or the fridge or both have problems regulating their temperature. My gut feeling is that it's the freezer's fault and that the ultra-cold air coming from the freezer is what's freezing the top shelf of the fridge. Meanwhile, the fridge may be regulating its temperature responsibly, since everything below the top shelf is cold but not frozen. I'm hoping that someone can point out with some certainty what component is causing the issue, rather than just throwing money at the problem until it's fixed. The unit is 9 years old so naturally there's not much point in tossing hundreds of dollars of replacement parts into it.
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Sep 21, 2012 17:24
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Splizwarf posted:Usually there's only one compressor. As far as I know the temp of a standard freezer-top or side-by-side fridge is controlled by simply sliding more open or more shut the airvents in the back of each chamber that lead from the freezer to the fridge. The temp dial is usually just a simple mechanical device that opens and shuts the vents as it's turned. The freezer-bottom ones have a fan that moves the freezer air through the vents up into the fridge chamber. Correct, there's only one compressor. My fridge is a side-by-side but as far as I understand, the fridge compartment is kept cold by allowing air from the freezer into the fridge through a "baffle vent" (their words, not mine) that is computer-controlled. The vent is opened and closed to regulate temperature as reported by a thermostat. I put a thermometer in the lower portion of the fridge and have seen temperatures as high as 38 but as low as 31. This should be within spec even though the temperature bounces around. Evidently my thermometer didn't like being in the freezer because it pegged at 0. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Sep 21, 2012 |
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Sep 21, 2012 22:13
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I'm planning on building a fence and buying 8' prefab shadowbox panels to nail to the posts and I can't seem to find a conclusive method of attaching them. So far I've seen 2 approaches: Use joist hangers on the post to support the stringers Since I don't want to knock the outer 2 pickets off the panel, I can't use double-shear hangers; I'd have to use angle iron or toe-nail them in. Attach panels to the side of the posts I'll have to adjusting my post spacing from 96" to 92.5" to accomodate. Also, because the pickets on these particular panels alternate sides -- in other words, if a picket is outward-facing on the left, it will be inward-facing on the right of the panel --, I'd need to buy an extra picket or some other 5/8" spacer to keep the panels straight. I think there's maybe just something fundamental that I'm missing. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Oct 17, 2012 |
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Oct 17, 2012 19:25
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:http://www.lowes.com/pd_61805-1410-V73/9_0__?productId=3112149&Ntt=frost+king&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dfrost%2Bking&facetInfo= If you get this stuff, make sure to buy some better tape like 3M or something. The quality of the double-sided tape that comes in these packs is loving terrible: not nearly enough tack and it's harder to remove in spring if you do manage to get it to stick.
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Nov 2, 2012 18:09
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dwoloz posted:Setting posts in concrete will rot them out in a couple seasons What kind of environment might cause pressure-treated lumber to rot out in a couple seasons? It should be rated for continuous immersion in the most extreme circumstances. I know that people claim cement can expand and contract and let water in and freeze and  , but take a look at a >10 year old 4x4 fence post that I ripped out last weekend: Other than the wood that got ripped up by the excavator bucket, it looks brand new. The bright, colorful portion was previously underground. There is zero rot at the interface with the cement and zero rot at the ground level. I set 27 fence posts a couple weeks ago and here's how I did it: dig an 8" x 27" hole, toss in 3" of gravel, throw in post, fill hole with cement, level post, stab cement with a piece of rebar to remove air pockets, check and re-level post if necessary.
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Nov 27, 2012 21:25
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Yeah, you're probably right about that old post treated with CCA. Still, my point was to assume that the wood will be in contact with water at least part of the time and make sure your treatment is rated for it. The stuff I bought was designated UC4A which is what I'd consider minimum if you're setting in concrete and burying. It should last the 10 or so years before I move. If you were building a permanent foundation for a deck or something you might want to get UC4B or UC4C-rated lumber for added protection. There's also the option of those liquid penetrative sealants but I can't comment on how well they work. If you have a lot of money to burn, consider cypress or red cedar as an alternative.
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Nov 27, 2012 22:24
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What part of a microwave would make a whining sound?
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Jan 6, 2013 01:18
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XmasGiftFromWife posted:Does it have a rotating tray? Yes, but I haven't noticed any odd movement or sticking of the tray. The sound is sparsely intermittent, so I thought "fan" initially as well.
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Jan 6, 2013 18:12
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Our basement walls look like poo poo: My girlfriend, who's been here 11 years, told me that the moisture problems stopped when she had the downspouts redone. Now we want to clean up and paint the walls, but I wanted to see if there were any specific product or procedure recommendations here first. I was just planning on attacking the bubbling paint with a scraper and wire brush, then sealing/painting with Dry-Lok or Damp-Lok or Blue Max or whatever people recommend. Assuming the moisture problems were fixed, I shouldn't have future issues with dampness getting trapped inside the block and loving stuff up, correct?
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Jan 16, 2013 22:06
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Thanks guys for the help. Trust me, I'm going to be using my shooting glasses for this. Thankfully most of the efflorescence is down low but there are a couple nasty spots that go quite far up the wall (like where the gas line comes in). The reason I'm looking at indoor treatments and not waterproofing the outside in some way: - there has been no further moisture penetration in years, leading me to believe that the problem was fixed in the past (probably when she had the downspouts replaced) - we don't plan on being here more than a handful of years, long before the 101 year old foundation wall crumbles
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Jan 18, 2013 15:30
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Speaking of cleaning blowers, I removed mine thinking it was a squirrel-cage design but apparently it's of the mouse-cage variety. Then there were 5 more mouse-mummies in the return where it meets the furnace 
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Jan 21, 2013 22:42
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Account_Username posted:Did it work better after cleaning? I might just leave it as is if there isn't any improvement. It really wasn't as dirty as I thought it might be, other than the fauna. We haven't noticed any significant efficiency improvement, but it's also a 28 year-old furnace in a 100 year-old house so the least of its problems are dust in the blower. However, blower fans are at least supposed to be pretty well balanced so removing the furry counterweight couldn't have hurt.
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Jan 21, 2013 22:50
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dwoloz posted:I have a composting toilet with a resistive heating element/pad that works like the defroster in a car's rear windshield. It's no longer heating and I've found a small break in one of the grid wires. The sheet has a clear plastic layer over the wires. I'm assuming I should remove this clear plastic layer before repairing. Would it be best to sand it off? Solvent? Also, would it be best to solder it back together or use the conductive paint sold in auto parts stores? I've always just sanded it to bare wire if the enamel was thin enough (like on motor windings) or scraped with a sharp utility knife for thicker insulation. I've also had luck just burning it off and cleaning it up with some sandpaper.
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Feb 28, 2013 17:05
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I recently ordered enough pickets to finish a privacy fence. Apparently they just delivered them despite: 1) Never calling to set up a delivery time 2) Pouring rain 3) Not having anyone home to sign off on the delivery (presumably the driver did?) The pickets are only 5/8" thick pressure treated lumber. What's the likelihood of a great deal of them warping due to being out in the rain all day?
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Apr 10, 2013 21:20
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It sounds like you have the process down, although when I did a 650 sq. ft. patio in our backyard, I put the weed barrier on top of the limestone base rather than underneath. Since it compacted almost as hard as concrete, I wasn't afraid of weeds getting through it.bisonbison posted:2 additional questions: Rent or buy a hand tamper; a plate compactor or jumping jack is overkill for such a small area. Learn to listen for the way the sound changes when you tamp level ground. It's kind of difficult to explain, but provided you're tamping consistently, the sound will change from the usual "crunch" to almost a "slap" when the ground underneath is flat. A grade is important for directing water away from a structure, and the rule is 1" for every 8'. I would start by grading your paver base then double check grade on your pavers, adjusting as necessary.
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Apr 30, 2013 14:53
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ShadowStalker posted:If you have an edger, you can also use that by running the edger where you want the edging and then pounding the edging into the hole with a rubber mallet. Just make sure you set it at the deepest setting. You don't merely want to "stuff" edging into the ground like that unless you want frost to heave it out of the ground in a few seasons. You really want enough dug out so you can pound the stakes through the bottom of the edging at a near-horizontal angle.
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Jun 10, 2013 14:53
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Stupid fire pit question: if I'm surrounding a 10ga fire pit liner with some sort of brick, can I use the cheap concrete brick around the liner without refractory brick on the inside? Since the hearth is going to be 10" deep, I'd like the bricks to act as a radiating mass, but am not certain of their longevity when the liner and a thin air gap would fashion as the only buffer.
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Aug 5, 2016 14:56
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I'm thirding giving a hard look at installing a whole-house humidifier this fall as our humidity drops to single digits when the furnace gets going during the cold months (October - April). Is there any reason not to plumb the drain line for it into the same line as my A/C condensate? Does this change if I'd like to build a system to recover/treat/store my condensate as part of a winter project? Do the drain lines on humidifiers constantly drip, or is it more of a safeguard?
Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Oct 6, 2017 |
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Oct 6, 2017 17:12
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If you're like me and have been waiting on a smoking deal for a compound sliding miter saw, the Dewalt DWS779 is $349 on Amazon right now.
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Nov 1, 2017 14:42
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's the same deal as it was 20 years ago. Adjusted for inflation, etc. That's true, but I didn't have $350 to spend on impulse buys when this was the going rate and other folks in need also likely find themselves without a time machine. I'm planning on re-tiling the kitchen and bathroom this winter so it couldn't have come at a better time. I hope others can benefit.
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Nov 1, 2017 16:19
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Is it that hard to imagine someone using a sliding saw with a dry blade to save time cutting tile? At any rate, I have enough wood construction projects cutting lumber wider or thicker than my little 10" saw can handle in one pass to welcome a timely upgrade.
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Nov 1, 2017 16:46
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I have a "half-pint" maple syrup evaporator on my patio that I'd like to permanently move behind my garage before sap season next spring. I'd like it to be as close as I practically can for space reasons, without burning down my garage, and would appreciate some help grounding some of the ideas I have. The thing is roughly 2' wide x 3' deep x 3' tall and weighs around 500 pounds with a full load of sap and wood. I'd like to orient the evaporator with the exhaust end facing the garage, because I need plenty of room to work on 3 sides of the thing and was planning on using stand-offs to support the chimney a safe distance from the exterior wall. If we assume that I use double-wall pipe, I should be safe with 6" of clearance between the garage and the pipe, correct? My understanding is that I should be 2' above the roof-line of the garage, since the roof peak will be within 10' of the top of the stack. Because of the elbow at the bottom, that would put the rear surface of the evaporator a little less than 18" from the garage. At this distance, I'd absolutely need a heat-shield of some sort, but what would be a good product for outdoor use? I'm not sure how I want to support this whole thing on the ground without shifting/heaving/erosion, but I'm thinking a small concrete pad.
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Nov 8, 2017 22:39
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If you're already concerned with the safety of the adhesive, it's prudent to consider the safety of the materials used to create, decorate, and finish the ceramics as well.
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Nov 14, 2017 16:39
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Mr. Mambold posted:Counterpoint: there's essentially no pressure in a drain line. Sleeves and hose clamps around the area, move on. Until the current or a future homeowner gets the idea to clean out a stuck drain with compressed air. That's immediately what I thought of when I saw the picture of the repair.
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Dec 22, 2017 15:30
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A LOVELY LAD posted:Yeah, spot welds by the looks of things Drilling out the spot welds possible? Hopefully you can then secure the new sliders through this hole to the cabinets.
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Feb 8, 2018 19:47
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DrBouvenstein posted:I just recently bought myself a wort chiller for making beer, and would like to brew a batch this weekend. Like most wort chillers, it connects via a 3/4" garden hose connector: Check your clothes washer cold supply line. Often these are terminated with a 3/4" NPT male fitting already. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 20, 2018 |
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Feb 20, 2018 19:07
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punk rebel ecks posted:If this is the consensus of the thread. Then I'll tell her I'll pay for the repair. As someone that replaced the entire drain line from the sink to the stack because of coagulated grease, I concur. When I cut it out, 16' of the drain line was a solid core of grease save for the tiny hole in the center where I had run the plumber's snake just prior. Do the right thing and suck it up this time. If it clogs after 6 months of changing your ways, then it's her turn to own up. Edit: punk rebel ecks posted:Alright I'll tell her I'll pay for it. I can only venture a guess. For me at my current place, the drain line was drat near horizontal and wasn't supported well. When the drain line became heavy with clog material, it sagged a little between supports, exacerbating the problem. My point is that it's probably a little you, a little her, and maybe a little something outside your immediate control. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Apr 6, 2018 |
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Apr 6, 2018 18:42
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vulturesrow posted:I'm building a small retaining wall in my backyard and the trench is done being excavated. However being that I live in the Pac Northwest there is now standing water in my trench. I'm using crushed gravel for the base; is there any concern with trying to lay the base with the water in the trench or should I wait until it dries out a bit so I can at least see the bottom? No concern whatsoever. I laid a sea wall a number of years ago and it's the same procedure, just scaled up a bit. The first course was almost entirely underwater. It was definitely slower going, but you don't need to see the base to reference level off of it or to tamp it flat (it just makes a mess!)
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Apr 9, 2018 15:23
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PremiumSupport posted:In this case however any course-thread screws with an inch of thread in the wood will be overkill given the total 45lb weight load. Sure but sometimes things that hang may one time, one day have more force applied than intended or imagined; whether that thing becomes a swing for a child, a spot to snag (or hang) your clothes on, a prop for something falling (like a drunk), etc. In those cases, you'll be glad you overbuilt with the correct hardware for the application. Always over-fasten. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Apr 10, 2018 |
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Apr 10, 2018 18:49
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shits.ridic posted:I just want to rip the carpet out and need to buy gloves. Should I get those ones that are like thick suede or whatever? I tried ripping some with my bare hands. gently caress, that was hard I've tried so many different pairs and kinds of work gloves, both leather and synthetic, and keep going back to the cheapo knit gloves with the rubberized palm that extends up and over the fingertips. They stand up better than leather and the rubber portion covers enough to handle water and wet stuff without it getting the gloves wet. When they wear out, my wallet barely feels it unlike fancy leather, crappy Mechanix-style gloves, and those weirdo ones with all the plastic poo poo on em.
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Apr 27, 2018 17:55
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kid sinister posted:Do you have an old house with hardly any insulation? You might end up making it really humid inside during the winter and cause fogged up windows, icy windows, mold from lack from lack of ventilation, etc. I'm agreeing; but an old, loosely constructed house usually has plenty of ventilation. I wonder how many changes of air per day occur in my old house built just after the turn of last century.
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Apr 29, 2018 14:28
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Kanish posted:Whats a good way to drive off carpenter bees from a deck without killing them all? I dont mind bees but they hang out right on our deck stairs and my dog continuously tries to eat them. I've read about people with log homes singing praises for NBS-30, a "green" additive for paints/stains/sealants which appears to be a blend of essential oils and safe for people and pets. Fortunately the carpenter bees that hibernate on my property seem to move on in spring instead of making homes in my raised beds and fence.
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May 4, 2018 14:42
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Don't gently caress with your clover. It feeds pollinators, it sprouts early, stays GREEN to keep the lawn looking good, it's super soft on your feet, it takes almost no water, and it has lovely little white flowers. It also forms a symbiosis with special bacteria that allows the clover to literally use nitrogen from the air as fertilizer. That fertility can be used for other plants when the above-ground parts of the plant are chopped or die back for winter. Some day I'll have my clover lawn instead of grass and ajuga and yarrow and plantain and clover and dandelion and ground ivy and vetch and and
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May 16, 2018 16:03
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Bobulus posted:Quick question: I've got a large hole in the drywall behind my stove (roughly 3' x 2') that the builders left open for the electrical cord for the stove. I believe this hole is how I'm getting mice in my kitchen, so I'd like to seal it up if I can. I concur with the drywall recommendation, but I'm more curious about the wiring. Did the builders literally leave a huge hole in the wall with absolutely no fucks given for the wiring? Regardless if your stove has a molded plug or is hard-wired, I'd still put an appropriate receptacle in there.
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Jun 20, 2018 19:38
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Jerk McJerkface posted:I'm not sure how the precast steps secure to the ground. By being really loving heavy. Or at least that's how the precast steps/landings are at my place. They haven't shifted in the ~10 years I've been there. Edit: VVV Yep, I was just about to suggest that to retain the position on soil or asphalt. If you're on concrete, bolt some 2x4s just inside the hollow portion. Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jul 13, 2018 |
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Jul 13, 2018 14:25
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DrBouvenstein posted:What I'm stuck on is what to make the treadmill "track" out of. It will have to be something at least a little water resistant, and also not slippery so his little dog feet can grip it. I plan to probably use a piece of plexiglass mounted to the PVC frame for the support underneath the track, if that seems lke a decent option. I immediately thought of these large rubber mats I got to cut up as "cheap" litter mats. The grooves on top are nice and grippy, the mats flex easily along the grooves, and they should be lightweight enough for your doge. I imagine you'd have to sew/attach several cuts end-to-end to make a little tread, though.
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Aug 15, 2018 21:44
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H110Hawk posted:I realized this room is the most greasy due to cooking, we fry stuff frequently. Should I be cleaning the walls and ceiling prior to application? If so, what are people's opinions on what to use? I wanted to add to the other suggestions that if the grease is like a thick, sticky enamel that doesn't come off with any amount of industrial degreaser, to scrub it with oil first, then use your degreaser. The last time I cleaned my kitchen cabinets, the ones above the stove were covered decade-old grease and I ended up using olive oil. It released the plasticized oil with way less labor then any solvent alone would've required.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:08
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Medullah posted:I just moved into a new house about two weeks ago, and am settling in and getting used to it. I had the same issue in my house, though the ticking was in the basement, and only in the hot water pipe. That’s what happens when you have plastic (CPVC) pipes running through tight plastic retainers and a call for hot water causes the whole run to expand ever so slightly in length.
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Nov 19, 2018 19:31
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