Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

IOwnCalculus posted:

The batteries are cheap, but they're also the lowest capacity batteries on the market. I don't think I've seen any of their tools come with more than a single-parallel 1.5-2.0 Ah battery roughly equivalent to other brands compact packs. I've noticed a difference between compact and larger packs on my higher draw Milwaukee tools.

I remember seeing a video where they put a HF battery on a load and it had less than half its rated capacity. As far as battery size I found the Milwaukee heatgun needs at least the 9.0 to not completely suck if its remotely cold outside, everything else I've used has worked fine on the 5 A/hr batteries but I haven't tried the chainsaw with it.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I picked up a set of gearwrench with the flexible ratcheting head years ago and I'm glad I got the flex end instead of the reversible just for the tight spots, they have been working great for years.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Before I started wearing prescription I always found uvex to be the most comfortable. I'd recommend a face shield too, great for grinding and sanding drywall joints on the ceiling.

I still cant find a pair of prescription safety glasses that are plastic for arc flash and aren't uncomfortable.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Has anyone tried any of these diy sandblaster kits?

I have several 500gal oil tanks available to turn into a blasting cabinet or anything else I could use them for. As far as I can tell I'd only be out the cost of the kit and my time plus it would be huge compared to one of those HF cabinets.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I got scared of the ratcheting HF jack stands years ago after reading about too many people getting crushed and switched to the pin style ones (the brand is Larin) I found at farm and fleet, if I need to use them on dirt I find a scrap of 2x8 or 2x10 to put under them.

My mower is sitting on 4 of these right now while I have the transmissions out to fix a leak. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/227928-larin-6-ton-jack-stand.html They were cheaper when I bought them.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I'm looking at picking up a paint gun and the appropriate PPE. I plan on using it with oil base and urethane base to spray trailer/truck frames, some welding projects, and try and see if I can do some body work on my farm truck.
After looking around I think I'm going for this paint gun kit https://www.eastwood.com/devilbiss-auto-paint-and-priming-system.html

For PPE I was thinking of a full face respirator with p100/organic vapor cartridges, I saw a Honeywell recommended several pages back but dont know how well it would work with glasses. I guess my other option would be the 3m half face and getting some prescription goggles of some type. I should probably use one of those hooded tyvek suits too.

Any recommendations for a respirator or anything I'm overlooking? I know I'll need to find a filter/regulator/dryer still.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
That versaflow makes lasik look cheap. Would buying a set of goggles and blocking the vents be the best option? I could just wear my half mask and face shield over the top to try and keep overspray off my face but I'm thinking that would get hot after a while.

I was probably going to be doing most of the painting that I dont care about dust getting on in one of my greenhouses, one has a 60" fan in the back. For bodywork I saved the blower out of my old furnace and was thinking I could weld up something to hold some furnace filters in and do a makeshift paintbooth in half the garage.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Metal cutting talk, I use an old milwaukee abrasive cut off saw for almost everything. Its slow on anything thick and gets it really hot but it works and I have it. I've been looking at auctions for about a year trying to get a horizontal metal band saw with the coolant system and have been seeing them go around $400-1000 depending on size.

The best way to look at tool purchases is what would it cost to pay someone else and if you like learning how to do things you always come out ahead if its something you would do more than once.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

sharkytm posted:

Those washers will be all over if you don't bag them. That's what I meant about the small stuff. The Stanley's are a little better, but I still bag most washers and <#6 nuts. Somewhere in this thread or the garage thread, I've got pics of the rolling organizer I built for my Stanley boxes. I'll build another one for these, probably supporting them by the bottom instead of the lid lip.

I have better luck with tackle boxes for the really small hardware, even in the Milwaukee cases anything smaller than 1/4-20 needs to be bagged or in little jars. Now I need a good parts cabinet for all my hardware 5/16ths and up.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

I had a cap issue with my table saw last summer, the running cap failed and it would start spinning but the thermal overload in the motor starter would trip it out. It doesn't sound exactly like your issue but besides replacing both caps I took every cover and shroud off the motor and cleaned it as best I could with compressed air and a brush. Doing this made the centrifugal switch operate much more freely. It sounds like you tried this already but I thought I'd throw it in there.

I would probably measure the winding resistance of the motor and then bypass the switch for testing. The winding resistance is going to be low but it shouldn't be a direct short, you should be able to tell the difference with a decent meter. Also I've seen some strange things happen with switches so this should eliminate that being a potential cause.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Depending on the voltage you megger at the voltage will find ground even with the insulation in perfect condition. That said I have hi-potted hundreds if not thousands of fan and pump motors (120/240 to 480V motors) with 1500VAC successfully.

If you can get your hands on a megger you could try connecting all the wires coming out of the motor together (except any ground wires) and hit them with 250 or 500V, I don't think this is the issue because if it was a ground fault the GFCI would pop before you even pulled your finger away from the button or switch.

My bet is on the switch, motor, or crusty wiring somewhere.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Nice
Dude, get some ring terminals.

Now that it has a new cap it shouldn't give you trouble for years.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Advent Horizon posted:

I don’t have any plans to put any automatics back into anything. Down only. :smug:

The only reason I bought my transmission jack was to put a NV3500 back in after I couldn't get it lined up, I've only used it for gas tanks since then.

Back to compressed air talk what are the best options for shop air distribution? Is something like rapidair going to be the best bet?

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Cat Hatter posted:

If by "shop" you mean your garage or shed where you work, just solder some copper water pipes together. They're cheap and widely available. If you actually have a full on shop that's going to have multiple runs etc then maybe.

The garage and basement for now, if I could send something through a 1" conduit I could have air in the greenhouse for tires or something. I probably will have about 4 outlets in the garage and 2 or 3 in the basement.

I'll price out copper, I don't want to deal with rust in my air lines.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I'm always limited for weight so I never carry full tool sets when I travel but I've learned to break the tools up based on type/task and use those canvas tool pouches for what I can. The TSA dumps it all out when they dig through it anyway but its handy to swap smaller bags in and out of the pelican depending on what the trip is for.

One of the packout type systems looks great if you have a higher space/weight limit to work with, can still swap in and out cases depending on task and have some of the advantages of drawers. No pile of slightly different shaped blow mold cases that dont stack neatly too.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I'm afraid of trying to drain my air tanks, one of the valves is cross threaded with a seized valve and the other snapped off last time I tried to drain it. I'm just waiting for them to fail with no source of cheap tanks to replace them with.

builds character posted:

Those things take up so much more room than I’d realized.
The blow molded cases are great for protecting tools (not the harbor freight quality blow mold) when space isnt a concern but it makes every tool about 3x bigger.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Loctite's got a whole line of sticks. Red or blue locker, teflon thread sealer, anti-seize (both flavors), etc. I really need to pick some up.

I have had nothing but leaks when using the thread sealant sticks, teflon tape and liquid teflon over that has never leaked for me.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Invalido posted:

I've been welding for half my life and I've yet to properly learn this.
Yeah

I have started wearing boots right away if I know I'm going to be cutting with the torch. Still give myself a tan when I tell myself its going to be just a few tacks.

Just make your own cart, it helps you get used to the machine. You can have multiple cylinders, outlets, hooks, plans to make drawers someday.

edit

kastein posted:

In a t shirt and shorts. I literally woke up screaming after rolling over in bed when the pain finally kicked in from those burns. Kind of wonder when I'll get skin cancer, too.
"I'll put pants on later, just going to tack this up for now."

SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Mar 14, 2022

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I own all my tanks and never have I had one refilled, roll them to the loading dock and roll away an already filled cylinder. I'm pretty sure that at least one or two have collars welded onto them but the only question I'm ever asked is if I'm paying cash.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

two_beer_bishes posted:

I've had this company recommended to me before but I still haven't bought any yet.

I bought a pair from them that were very uncomfortable, they broke within three weeks. I went to the local place where I could try them on and had an overall better experience.

I'm due for two new pairs but have to get plastic frames because of arc flash so my options are limited.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Safety Dance posted:

Thanks for all this! I forgot about induced voltages. I've never seen a false positive like this before, but it was my first time using a Fluke vs a Klein pen, and the first time with romex instead of thhn in metal conduits that would have shielded the circuit better.

Yeah, zero. It was mostly a stupid check to make sure whoever installed the light fixture didn't get black and white mixed up.
Not a stupid check at all, its how you find that someone never grounded the neutral on a step down transformer in a cabinet that had been in service for a decade.

Dont even bother with the non contact voltage testers, worthless for troubleshooting and they don't count for anything safety related*.

*The only use for them is on the end of a hotstick before hanging grounds.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Frank Dillinger posted:

From the videos I’ve seen, it’s a long neck version of the high speed ratchet. Head profile looks a lot better to me, hopefully it comes out before my snap on guy gets the hi-viz colored brushless long neck in:shepicide:

I haven't tried the snap on but for that price you can buy two m12 fuel kits that have the impact and ratchet. Is it really that nice?

Invalido posted:

So I spent most of yesterday fabricating and welding a bunch. I thought I was conscientious about PPE this time I thought. Boots instead of the steel toed sandals I like, cap on under the mask, the good long gloves and even the new leather apron purchased after I set my crotch on fire the last time I welded more than a little. Except no. Gave myself a painful sunburn on a sliver of bicep exposed between the t-shirt sleeve and the welding glove. In my defense it was hot in the garage. Maybe this is the time I finally learn. On the plus side I'm halfway done with a very very strong trellis archway for the wife's roses. I just know people are gonna use it for pullups.

I keep an old light flannel shirt handy after the last time I turned my arm into a candy cane, make sure it's 100% cotton.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

BigPaddy posted:

The cheapest hazard fraught ones would be fine.
Mine came with all but one of the casters stripped, one was snapped off. I didn't feel like the hour round trip was worth the effort and welded the casters on. They work great with a 2000lb car on concrete.

If you go this route open the boxes in the parking lot of the store.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Hypnolobster posted:


The trick is to just never work with or around anybody else, ever.
My coworkers keep taking the extension cords and channel locks off the service trucks, open the drill index and half the bits are snapped in half but at least they were put away I guess.

On a related note what brick and mortar stores sell Knipex tools?

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Sorry, I'm actually pretty close to their hq in northern Wisconsin right now. I'm so used to Menards pushing master force so much I didn't think to even think they would sell them. I'll probably pick up more drill bits while I'm there.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Commodore_64 posted:

Anyone know a similarly cheap tool that will do 4/0 gauge? I don't actually NEED wire that thick, but I like cable I guess. Also I think that same tool spyder linked was 40 bux when I bought it 8(?) or more years ago.

I bought one of the hydraulic crimpers of Amazon (ABN hydraulic cable crimper with 11 dies) for battery cables and it worked great for $60. You will need to convert AWG to MCM or mm^2 with all the cheap ones I've seen.

Real crimping tools will cost you over $2k on one set of dies.

the spyder posted:

What in the christ do you need 4/0 for?
He could need to extend a 120v 20a circuit 1500ft?

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
The 4.3 pays for itself if you're bad at taking your batteries inside over winter. Two car batteries, two pickup batteries, mower battery, and a tractor battery have been brought back to useable condition with the thing. I'm going to pick up a trickle charger from them next.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I picked up some inline filters from Eastwood for painting, you might need something electronic with your humidity. You could try making your own out of pipe fittings, screen, and a ton of silica beads.

If you know how to get one for cheap a dehydrating breather from a transformer could dry the air before entering the compressor.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I didn't know you could kill one of those mke plug in sawsalls with anything but a very high drop. Mine is still the best wrench I have next to the torch.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Knobby gears for extra traction when off road grinding.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Don't get the store brand ties from home depot! I can rip them apart in my bare weak hands, anything past 2 on the zip tie gun will snap them too.

T&B, burndy, Panduit, ty-wrap, I like the ones with the stainless insert. Almost all of them sold at an electrical supply house are going to be good, if you can find them online they will work and not be way overpriced.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Is it the Klein angle gauge with the magnets? I need one for doing conduit and was recommended theirs.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Get the name brand Milton fittings, the one on my hose reel has been abused for about 10 years and recently has started leaking but only with cheap connectors.

If anyone's looking for a creeper northern tool has a decent one on sale. No trays but I like it better than my plastic one.

https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200947980_200947980

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

ThinkFear posted:

I saw you got no bites in the other thread either, so I'll try to answer your questions. A lot of compressors already have something similar to the condenser in your first picture. That's the intent behind the finned line coming off of the compressor head. You want it between the compressor and tank to cool the air entering the tank and allow the condensing water to be drained out of the bottom of the tank.

Would the condenser with a drain point at a low spot before entering the check valves on the tanks be a good solution? A 240v normally open solenoid valve that closed when the compressor starts should work for this I'm thinking.

I built my compressor out of spare parts and the highest hp single phase motor I could find but couldn't find finned tubing so I half assed a few coiled copper tubes together. The AC condenser looks like a much better solution I wish I would have thought of.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I'll second running at least 3/4 up to the regulator if you're going to have a bunch of elbows, I know it makes a difference on air tools as far as keeping the pressure up after the first ugga dugga.

I think my old compressor was rated at 14scfm and it ran constantly if I had to do any blasting, it was a crapsman so I'm guessing that was optimistic.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
They work great, easy to set up and take down, heavy enough it wont blow over easy. They don't get used constantly but haven't broken in 3ish years.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Who’s the crazy hoopty/full sized car person(s) in AI beside me and you wesleywillis?

I almost picked up a caddy of that era, a hood and an engine you measure in cubic feet. Somehow ended up with a Jag, still has a long hood and barely fits in the garage but it's no proper boat.

I'd say 2 post lift but those only fit in the garage if you're lucky.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
For solid axle or cars with the right subframe I have this pneumatic locking jack, I really should try and figure out what it's rated for. Can't do a 62 Bel Air or gmt400/800 suburban but can almost toss a Corolla.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

LightRailTycoon posted:

I wish left handed bits were more common.

I have 2 massive dc brushless motors from a dead 80v snowblower, and making a crazy drill press is one of my ideas for one of them.

I've been wanting to make a jet drive for my kayak for no good reason and I'm adding broken cordless snowblower to my list of possible donor machines. If the pedals move it a jet assist would get it up on plane.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Colostomy Bag posted:

That's not my main problem. My problem is letting the nut fall down before I do the bend and it can't make it around it.

Electrical tape, happened to me too many times to count.


StormDrain posted:

Next time I get a project car I'll probably get one that is currently around $250. K tool, maatercool, Eastwood something like that.
Are the copies of the Eastwood and K tool that poorly made? Some of them look identical in the pictures, with everyone seeming to use contract manufacturers for everything I was thinking they were all from the same factory.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply