My SV650 is shortly going on the market and I'll be looking for a proper sportsbike to replace it. I've mostly been looking at relatively recent super sports but then this came up not too long ago: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-582826848.htm The fastest bike I've owned and ridden long-term was a hornet 919, so I have a few questions about this: 1. What could I expect out of this by comparison, power-wise? Would it feel slightly faster but much more peaky, or just much faster in general? And how 'nimble' would it be? 2. All the big sportsbikes I've ridden have been post 2000 or thereabouts, how much worse/different is a dinosaur like this? Both to live with/repair and to actually ride. 3. The guy mentions it has a 96 engine and something about different internals; is the 96 engine much different? Does it seem like he's full of poo poo? 4. The suspension being 'worked' (whatever the gently caress that's meant to mean). I'm imagining that, best case scenario, this basically means it handles like it did from the factory. Which returns me to my earlier question: will this handle like I expect a bike with USD forks of that sort of weight to handle, or will it be absolutely poo poo compared to what I'm used to because of outdated chassis technology and so on? Basically, I've never ridden a full-size sportsbike of this era, what can I expect? Should I just fork out more cash for an early 00's 600?
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2013 11:18 |
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# ¿ May 1, 2024 03:45 |
clutchpuck posted:With your attitude on analog fuel atomizers, this surprises me. I'd rather a good bike with carbs than a poo poo one with efi, it's just one factor among many. I just don't know if it's a good bike or not.
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# ¿ Apr 15, 2013 20:12 |
So I'm selling my SV650 with the specific goal of getting something both faster and much more sports orientated. But then some random guy offers me a straight swap on this: I've always had a massive soft spot for these but never had the guts to actually take the leap. Unfortunately it has 94,000km's. Keeping in mind that I find the SV's handling fairly clumsy and crude, and that my target bike in general is a supersport of some sort, how terrible is the handling on these? Various reviews on the net say it's pretty clunky in the bends despite the impressive looking rear shocks and brakes. Anyone have any first hand experience riding these? Would I be in for a world of disappointment owning one? I can organise a test ride but it's a good two hours away so I want to have some idea of what to expect. Plus any long-term ownership anecdotes would be greatly appreciated. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Apr 18, 2013 |
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2013 06:57 |
Snowdens Secret posted:The Z-Rex is very much a musclebike. The line I've heard is that it's a big bike for big riders; if you're 6'+ you'll love it, if you're pocket sized, the size and weight will feel too much. It won't be as nimble as a modern sportbike, but you've also got big dirtbike bars to throw it around with. It is an excellent road bike and good if you want to throw a buddy or some luggage on the back. Sweet, probably worth a look then. Part of the appeal is that it's instant gratification and I don't have to sit through the torture of having to try to sell my bike to morons; it's 'free' in a sense. I'm organising a test-ride now, hopefully I'll have some first-hand experience on sunday. I'm fairly tall so something like this doesn't bother me, my hornet 900 felt pretty compact. The fact that the guy's chicken strips are almost nonexistent makes me hopeful; my SV won't even let me get that far over without bottoming out.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2013 10:49 |
yergacheffe posted:Looking at picking up a fourth gen VFR, coming from my first bike which is a second gen SV650. I'm hoping that the VFR is more comfortable (less vibrations, smoother power delivery, more upright riding posture/handlebars are closer because I have T-Rex arms). The refinement, handling and power will be a gigantic leap compared to the SV you're used to. Also has a fairing which if yours was a naked, you may or may not like. Definitely see if valve clearances have been done, it's a horrible nightmare to do on a VFR. Also remember it has linked brakes which you may or may not notice and may or may not give a poo poo about, but they're there anyway.
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# ¿ Apr 21, 2013 06:40 |
Kaliber posted:http://honolulu.craigslist.org/oah/mcy/3757839496.html This is pretty cool I reckon, as far as harleys go. Honest-to-god serious question: why is the rear rotor so much bigger than the front? Is it just a style thing?
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# ¿ Apr 23, 2013 10:58 |
Xovaan posted:I mean I personally think Kawasaki is the aesthetically worst motorcycle company outside of their dual sports and newer 250's but it's still pretty great if you're in the market for a new bike. I own this now thanks to you cunts
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2013 06:48 |
M42 posted:Pregen 250s got a face only an owner could love. Slavvy's bike straight up rules. Interestingly, that isn't actually where the battery is. The air filter housing sits there and there is this giant, cavernous vertical storage space. The battery is right at the bottom by the swing arm pivot. I know this because the one thing wrong with it is the return throttle cable has a broken piece of tube and I tried to replace it yesterday thinking it would be straightforward Xovaan posted:Well I meant outside of their newer lines, not including their newer "retro" lines, which own. You have a B12 if I remember correctly? If so, senseless big-engine naked bikes rule
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2013 23:12 |
Z3n posted:Husky is also pretty much dead, the reason they're willing to negotiate is because the news isn't totally widespread that Husky is being stripped and liquidated by KTM. So keep that in mind too. Which is a crying shame because the nuda 900 is an awesome bike and it looked like they were just starting to build some good bikes in general.
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# ¿ May 4, 2013 22:11 |
ElMaligno posted:So I set a few more e-mails to a few guys, including this ZRX1100 for shits and giggles. Excellent. Buy it and there can be at least another person with a rex on here
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# ¿ May 6, 2013 04:13 |
nsaP posted:Yeah the belly pan gives it away right? IIRC the OP was going to be commuting on it so the 500 should be nicer than the 250. It (almost) is, also has properly adjustable suspension which doesn't suck and 4-piston brakes which combined make a HUGE difference to handling. Plus a dual-can exhaust, if that's your thing. Also the sv1000s has blindingly, ridiculously powerful headlights compared to the sad single bulb on the nakeds. Abe I think the 650 is probably a better bike if you've only ever ridden regularly on a 250, but the 1000 is something you're more likely to keep for much, much longer without getting bored or spending money on making it better.
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# ¿ May 7, 2013 04:39 |
Spiffness posted:Solution: Hey <> I traded my 650 for a ZRX. astrollinthepork posted:Speaking of which, is there any reason I should be looking at a Bandit over say, an older ZRX1100 for an intermediate bike? Xovaan posted:Comfortable seat and ergos, reliable, sky-is-the-limit upgrades, torque for days. It's up to you to decide which bike this describes best. I would counter with amazing looks and attention-grabbing ability, and more suspension adjustability (I could be wrong wrong about the bandit on this front). I'd say a B12 is probably a better bike overall, but I've lost count of the number of people who can't stop looking at my rex or ask me about it; noone really looks twice at a bandit (which can be a good thing). I prefer riding something gaudy and eye-catching over something anonymous; on the other hand I'd say a B12 has a fair bit more grunt than a ZRX1100 which was one of the main complaints about it when it came out, hence the extra 100cc halfway through the model lifespan. edit: the bolded part pretty accurately describes the rex too, except you're always aware that you're doing it on something that looks like it was painted by ronald mcdonald on acid. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:35 on May 7, 2013 |
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# ¿ May 7, 2013 07:32 |
Xovaan posted:Both ZRX and Bandits can be made to make metric fucktons of power and handle really well, so it's a tossup on the visible vs. invisible aspect, definitely. I do enjoy the fact that cops don't look twice at 23-year-old-me on a Bandit wearing an Aerostich though. Every cop I've spoken to has been of the middle-aged variety and said something along the lines of 'aren't you too young for something like that?'. Lazyboy rockets rule.
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# ¿ May 7, 2013 07:46 |
It's meant to look like the braced swingarms you got as an aftermarket part in the 70's.ElMaligno posted:
What's with the bar ends? Also has really long mirror stalks. I'd cut back the plate holder asap. Also: [Z-REX] [ZRXES]
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# ¿ May 9, 2013 00:49 |
ElMaligno posted:Barends are apparently to dampen vibration and the mirrors have... Mirror extenders, so they look longer. Also that plate holder has extra LED stop lights that are linked to the braking system, so I will probably keep the fender. But weight loss Seriously though, it's a pretty tidy bike and now there is one other person with a 'rex on CA at least
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# ¿ May 9, 2013 01:51 |
captainOrbital posted:Well, since I'm 5'10" and weigh like 135 lb., I would probably look very silly on it, like I bought a somehow magnified UJM. Also, maneuvering in parking lots. I'm taller than you but weigh about the same, maybe a few pounds more. I ride a bike that weighs 220kg when dry; anything above walking pace and it isn't noticeably heavier than my sv. Seriously, if weight were relevant to low-speed maneuvering (sp?), Harley Davidson would've gone broke a very long time ago. Goldwings are pretty easy to ride.
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# ¿ May 15, 2013 22:49 |
Z3n posted:The first release is almost always not that great. It'll be good after the first revision, but buying the first bike of a new engine type or gen is usually not advisable, even from one of the big 4. This is true for virtually all private vehicles of any make. No amount of testing and computer-aided projection can compare to having hundreds of thousands of units being operated by morons for a year when it comes to ironing out bugs.
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# ¿ May 21, 2013 09:56 |
Nerobro posted:Where the hell did you read about a "250 rule?" How does a bike license actually work in the states? Do they just give you a piece of paper to go along with your car one or something? NZ's license test involves a basic handling skills test which from what I can tell is almost exactly like the MSF except if you screw up you fail. Not that this stops people being useless retards, but it's something.
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# ¿ May 22, 2013 03:13 |
NZ: You pass your basic handling skills test, which is a straight-up test, not a lesson or anything. You have to organise it yourself and you usually pay around $100 for the privilege. More than two errors and you fail. You take your pass cert to the DMV and they make you pay $140 to book a 40 question theory test; 3 wrong answers and you fail. After that you get 12 joyous months of riding around on any LAMS-approved bike (it used to be maximum limit 250cc!) with big yellow a L-plate affixed, no riding between 10pm and 6am, no passengers. They are bikes with less than a certain power-weight and less than 660cc; the sv650 qualifies because of a clerical technicality so it's the fastest straight-line bike you can own by a decent margin. Then you can sit your restricted test, in which a fat guy in a hatchback follows you as you ride around for 45 minutes and tells you where to go via a terrible radio earpiece thing. Then you get 12 months on your restricted, which is exactly like a learners without the L plates or time restrictions. Still has to be a LAMS bike, still no passengers. THEN you can go for your full, which is another test where you get followed but slightly more stringent, and you can ride whatever you want. Most people just take the risk and ride whatever until it comes for their full test, when they rent/buy a cheap small bike. It's actually harder than getting your car license as you can get a car learner's without any practical test at all, it's theory only. Oh and registering a 600cc+ bike for a year? $521.21. All because we don't have mandatory ownership insurance so ACC (state accident insurance) has to pay whenever a middle-aged man wobbles his fireblade into a ditch.
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# ¿ May 22, 2013 09:44 |
iqarus posted:Australia : In NZ it's three woodstocks and jump on my brother's CRF250 it goes hard as bro! Forever. If you're a dumbass.
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# ¿ May 22, 2013 10:43 |
Gweenz posted:For the most part it's ok, but think of an old digital watch, with the black lettering and dark grey background. There's just not enough contrast. Other than my minor complaints I think it's a great bike. I never had a problem with the SV's (I assume) much more dated LCD speedo. On most bikes I tend to judge my speed by RPM anyway, don't know if that's really a thing on a slow-revving cruiser though.
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2013 00:55 |
Powerstone posted:Looks like the guy sold that sv650 i asked about in the last page It's got the same (or 99% similar) engine, driveline, suspension, brakes etc. But the frame is a part-steel trellis jobbie instead of an alloy trellis like the outgoing SV. I've never ridden one so I can't comment on whether that's noticeably different or not. Also has all of the SV650's incremental engine improvements already. Here in NZ the SV-S and the Gladius are sold alongside eachother because the gladius doesn't have a half-faired option and they're both basically identical functionally.
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# ¿ Jun 24, 2013 03:52 |
ThirstyBuck posted:A couple reasons: I like how singles and vtwins sound, dislike how 4s sound, and their complexity. I've heard this said before and I honestly don't get it. I've owned both v-twins and fours and found the twins aren't really any 'simpler' because they tend to have a more jumbled general layout and there are two heads with two timing systems to contend with, as well as more awkward transmission packaging. The complexity difference is neglible if we're talking semi-modern DOHC bikes, V4's and Ducati's aside. Parallel twins are almost certainly the easiest multi-cylinder layout to gently caress with though.
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# ¿ Jun 25, 2013 23:21 |
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-610906364.htm How similar are these to a B12? Cosmetic differences aside, is it just the twin vs single rear shocks? I'm asking on behalf of a friend who mainly wants a B12 for the engine and all-purpose nature, but these tend to be a thousand dollars (or more) cheaper around here. His plan is to get rid of the ugly fairing and switch to a single headlight naked arrangement. How much worse are these than a B12 for dong-riding?
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2013 04:20 |
Interesting! Didn't spot the clipons, good call. I'll inevitably be test-riding either this one or a similar one so I'll see how it compares to my rex. I've seen a couple converted to naked before, they look incredibly tough and meaty.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2013 07:42 |
Nerobro posted:TL;DR: The Bandits are detuned GSX-R motors. The GS1200SS is "the ultimate extention" of the GSX motor. Bandits are common, GS1200's are rare. They're a dime a dozen here; there's usually at least three or four floating around trademe on any given day and they're basically worthless value-wise because the only bikes worth money here are 250's, any kind of full-faired sportsbike, and Harleys. I'll tell him to keep all the old parts and avoid doing anything that can't be reversed.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2013 21:01 |
High Protein posted:How does the 1400 fit into this, and is it better than a Bandit 1200? The 1400 is liquid cooled AFAIK and is meant to be deliberately UJM-style retro, as a direct competitor to ZRX1200 and CB1300. Totally different frame etc from what I've seen.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2013 22:34 |
nsaP posted:There are better bikes to learn on but overall it wouldn't be a bad one. Yamaha lamed up the 600 in that one so it makes about the same power as a sv650. To me this seems like it'd be perfect to learn on, aside from the fact that he would probably regret dropping it because it isn't an ancient turd of a thing. Good handling and stopping and no power; also I'm of the opinion that lazy 4's are better for learning because they aren't as choppy at low rpm compared to twins, and the engine experience is very similar to a car.
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# ¿ Jul 4, 2013 04:23 |
nsaP posted:Don't look at 250 cruisers dude. Seriously. Seconded. Literally slower than many scooters, with all the combined joys of a crap cruiser riding position/suspension married to a floppy lightweight bike. Did anyone here learn to ride on a cruiser style bike? I'm curious to know what it's like starting off on something feet-forward, cause I learned on a tiny, hyper-aggressive sportsbike which I don't consider to be a very good first bike.
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# ¿ Jul 7, 2013 09:34 |
HNasty posted:Depends on much weight matters to you, I looked at the CB1000R before as well but for some wacky reason it's way heavier than the CBR1000RR, my guess is the single sided swing arm, IIRC wet it clocks in at almost 500LB. Mean while CBR1000RR is in the low 400s wet. Supposed the bikes share a platform, I have no idea how the managed to add 80 lbs. The CB1000R produces decent torks but it's kinda high up in the range. CB1000R and fireblade have the same basic engine but the weight difference is in the predator's steel frame vs blade's alloy. I'd argue that the blade would feel 'heavier' at low speed because of the handlebar and riding position difference anyway.
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2013 23:11 |
Nerobro posted:What? When's the last time you saw a set of motorcycle tires get past 10,000 miles? I saw it happen. On an RG150.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2013 22:28 |
THE BLACK NINJA posted:I mean, what does a good street tire set cost? Tires for my cars are fuckin ridiculously expensive and I wore out my last set of summers on my sti in about 9k miles. PR3's cost me $600NZD fitted for my ZRX1200, this is a fairly good price, the quoted retail at that shop was in the 700 region fitted. I hope they last long
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2013 00:13 |
for sale posted:I am buying a motorcycle within the month, my first motorcycle. All I know is that I want one, I have some money, I scheduled the classes, and I couldn't care less what kind as long as it's not a scooter because gross. I'm looking at UJMs the most, or maybe a kawasaki ninja. I'm probably going to buy something on craigslist, and I don't mind fixing something up in order to get it running. How mechanically handy are you in general? If you've messed around with cars a bit, transitioning into bikes is pretty simple and there isn't too much you can gently caress up catastrophically. I'd focus on getting something that you're comfortable on, doesn't intimidate you and isn't too exotic or complex. You can worry about looking cool/going fast/parking by starbucks later, you want something solid and forgiving to learn on. Ninja 250 gets trotted out a lot here because it ticks basically every box for beginner bikes. For that sort of price, the tyres are pretty much guaranteed to be hosed so count on having to buy some regardless. Forks are easy; stand astride the bike and stare straight down the forks, you'll be able to see straight away if they're badly bent. I think you'll have a hard time spotting any metal shavings in the oil on a bike that runs, unless it's truly, desperately hosed. Generally, if it runs smoothly and sounds 'right' it usually is; that being said, don't let stuttering, hesitation or roughness put you off as these are usually attributable to minor fuel/spark related and don't necessarily mean the engine is hosed at all. In general I'm of the opinion that newer=better for starting bikes, up to a point. New-ish bikes tend to be easy to work on, without any of the baffling idiosyncrasies, parts supply problems and general fuckedness of really ancient bikes. Much like any vehicle really. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Jul 11, 2013 |
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2013 08:35 |
clutchpuck posted:I got 10k miles out of my PR2s before they picked up an irreparable puncture and needed to be replaced at the end of May. Pretty sure I wasn't counting wrong, too. I've been on PR3s for the last... 6,000 miles and I definitely have a lot more miles left on them. Yeah. Most non-motorway roads in NZ are coarse volcanic chip which is really, really abrasive compared to nice smooth tarmac. I can't really speak for bike tyres but I know when I hosed around with cars, I would always get less life out of my tyres than people with comparable vehicles in countries with tarmac roads.
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2013 21:51 |
Smudgie Buggler posted:I'm Australian, about to buy his first bike. Over here, for at least a year after you get your bike license, you can only ride bikes from an approved list, which tend to be quite sensible little numbers (though you can still legally jump on a Ninja 650 with about six hours of riding experience and off you go, so it does defeat the purpose a little for the determinedly stupid). The vast majority of widely available bikes 600cc or under are on the list. Ninja 250/300, pack your bags. The ninja looks like a full-faired sports, and I guess the CBR250 does too, but the riding position and experience are basically identical to the Inazuma, just with less wind. Seeing as you're in oz it might be worthwhile to check out a LAMS-limited Hyosung GT650R. Still a semi-standard riding position and forgiving handling, engine and so on, but with suspension, brakes and equipment levels a definite cut above the 250 crop. Plus you can later get the ECU redone to the full power version, which will let you squeeze a bit more life out of the bike than you would a 250 (usually they're flicked as soon as your learner period is over). That being said, they're fairly (not unmanageably) heavy and perceived as somehow being inferior to a Japanese bike. Also, the LAMS ninja 650 is not remotely a sports bike and won't kill you, they're really quite slow. Honorable mentions to the LAMS Sv650 (I don't know if they still sell them over there, in NZ they do).
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# ¿ Jul 16, 2013 02:26 |
Smudgie Buggler posted:Oh. I thought the Inazuma was more upright. I'm seeing recommendations of the Ninja as a first bike all over the place, and that's pretty compelling. The only thing I've seen and really liked that I didn't list in my previous post is the Suzuki TU250X. Money permitting (which I think it will), and my tastes not changing, my assumption has been that I'll be buying a Triumph Bonneville in 18-months to 2 years. I've loved those loving things since I was 5. If that's the kind of bike I ultimately want to ride, is there much advantage to starting with a similar riding position, or does it not matter very much? It's certainly the best looking (to me) of all the suitable beginner bikes I've looked at. Asking questions=/=stupid. Stupid people buy a harley/gixxer/whatever for their first bike and rock around with no helmet because of their faultless wisdom. I'd avoid the volty because it has crushingly poor horsepower compared to the other 250's you've listed, to the point where highway riding can be hazardous. Also dreadful suspension, dreadful brakes, and just generally shittier quality all-round. There is no advantage to starting off on a bike which is superficially semi-similar to what your dream bike may be, your best bet is to start on something with entirely neutral, middle of the road ergonomics. This is both so you can learn to ride well, without developing bad habits, and so that you can figure out what you want out of your next bike, be it more power/comfort/touring/offroad/whatever. My private opinion is that if you really want to be great at riding, and this outlook doesn't change, you'll never get that bonneville and end up on a sportsbike of some description. Also, noone who ever decided on their dream bike before learning to ride still wants that bike after having ridden for a few years, because what they think they want beforehand and what they really want after they learn are completely different. Fact. edit: so that's what happens when you lose connection mid-post... Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2013 07:34 |
Oxford Comma posted:Sooo...I will be looking at buying my first bike in a few weeks. When I have a specific bike found, I'll ask here for advice. But generally speaking, can I have a mechanic look at a motorcycle before I purchase it, like with a used car? A bike mechanic, sure. I can't speak for your area but most dealerships around here do a pre-purchase inspection which (I found out to my dismay) is pretty rigorous.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2013 04:06 |
Oxford Comma posted:How does this work? Do I tell a guy selling his motorcycle that I want ABC Mechanic to look at it, they take it to mechanic, who looks it over and gives me a report? I'd say it would depend on how much you're paying. If you're buying a $10,000 ducati then the seller had better be prepared to take it for a PPI. If you're buying a $1000 ninja just bring your mate with you and kick the tyres. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Is it? What did they do? They anally checked literally everything; I didn't even know my 919 had worn out head bearings and slightly bent handlebars (it was extremely subtle but definitely there). They also obsessively noted down every single tiny modification, every scratch/dent/whatever and were generally much more thorough than it's possible to be when you're looking at a bike in someone's driveway. I work at a car dealership and the level of detail surprised me; it was certainly much more indepth than most automotive PPI's I've seen.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2013 04:27 |
the walkin dude posted:I test-rode this thing today. It was a lovely decision. Soft suspension, high rearsets, the exhaust was too loud, etc. A friend used to have one of these. It had some aftermarket shock that felt like rocks, forks dropped two inches in the clamps with clip-ons attached, home-made preload spacers for the front, a completely fabbed up underseat exhaust with a zx-10 muffler, completely fabricated subframe and custom fairings that made it look like an MV agusta. It was a garbage bike. Try to change as little as possible I guess. The relatively crap forks and godawful fuel consumption will hurt you the most.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2013 23:16 |
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# ¿ May 1, 2024 03:45 |
the walkin dude posted:Terrible. Yeah, I plan on returning the exhaust to stock and tossing in new fork springs along with perhaps a F4i rear shock. Out of curiousity, are the front brakes crap? From what I could tell, the brakes were identical to my 919 and the master almost the same, yet the brakes on my friend's bike were poo poo and a Honda dealership told him they're all like that (which I think is complete bullshit).
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2013 00:02 |