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Slavvy posted:Rubbish, the toughest part of the whole process is pumping the tyre up with a billion strokes whilst wearing your riding gear. Then finding out you've pinched the tube and need to push it up the hill into the back of a truck anyway. (Psst, ride it slowly in first gear up the hill)
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Feb 25, 2016 07:52
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Dog Case posted:Finished putting new tires on it. Do you have a garage? What year is that GN125? How is it not being devoured by rust scale...
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Mar 10, 2016 21:48
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Fifty Three posted:I broke a bolt off in it. Heh, I found broken bolt threads in the exact same hole of my Ninja 250. Looks like the tank bracket hasn't changed between generations. I was able to remove what remained of the old bolt by removing the gas tank, reaching up under the gas tank bracket with some pliers or a vise-grip (or both), and screwing it out. Then I put a new bolt in. The Ninja 250 sure has a lot of "DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THIS" bolts.
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Mar 18, 2016 00:32
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Your GN125 is so clean. I should wash mine... show off my rust properly. 
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Jul 15, 2016 04:02
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Dog Case's post reminds me, my GN125 was starting to falter at idle speed (might be idle jet clogging up, since I don't ride it very often), so instead of cleaning the carb, I had to try one of those $25 Chinese Mikuni copies. This was about two months ago. Seems to be jetted the same as the previous carb, with a slight stumble off-idle. However, there seems to be slightly less top end, and recently, a problem's emerged where I've started to get coughs and blips at wide open throttle on the highway, making 55 mph more difficult than usual. Going to have to clean out the original carburetor one day and replace it. But yeah, $25 for an entire carburetor, whatta concept. P.S. I ordered replacement side covers from China too, something like $20 for the pair. But the paint on one of them is already starting to fade from being in direct sun. The fit and finish on both the carb and the covers is pretty good for the price. I also ordered a  Chinese front master cylinder due to no longer being able to seal the original one's reservoir, and the quality on that seemed to be even better than the original Japanese one. (Note: Seems to be working well so far because I'm still alive... so far)
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Sep 11, 2016 14:06
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Dog Case posted:I swapped out the 14T front sprocket for a 15T to make cruising at highway speeds a little easier. Does the GN still have power in 5th gear? At Wide Open Throttle in 5th I can slooowly crawl up to 60 mph, maybe even 65 mph, but by then I'm at 95% of redline. I'd imagine a front tooth up would make it difficult to accelerate... Please share how it goes.
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Oct 10, 2016 02:18
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I'm gonna assume that that's 18 degrees Centigrade. Last time I tried to ride that cold in Fahrenheit, 75% of my throttle travel was frozen.
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Oct 30, 2016 15:36
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Welcome to the salt 'n' pepper pate club, fellow stock fender buyer.
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Mar 8, 2017 16:04
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XYLOPAGUS posted:So the project ex 250 cranked up a week ago. I've done a single coat of red kote on the tank and I think I'm going to do a second. This is the classic EX250 "Ninja Knock". It's not caused by a bad rod bearing, but by worn rubber bushings somewhere in the clutch. You'll hear it every time the bike hasn't been run in a while.
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Apr 10, 2017 23:30
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I'm gonna remember that trick. I'm not always going to have a bed with wooden posts that I can jump up and down on.
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Apr 20, 2017 13:36
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Steering head bearings. Finally converted to the tapered roller bearings... no more center detent for me. I used a short length of PVC pipe as a driver for the stem bearing. I was pounding away for hours, but this was really just poor technique. The pipe had a very slightly uneven cut at the driving end, so I was really only pounding on one side of the bearing. When I started to rotate the pipe, I made a lot of progress in just minutes. Would be better to use a steel pipe, black pipe, next time, as it would transfer the power of each blow better. Getting the last eighth of an inch on was brutal. I had to imagine pounding "through" the pipe into the wood I was using as a brace beneath the bearing to finally drive it. I didn't take enough pictures of the wiring in the headlight, so I get to have some "fun" experimenting with what goes where tomorrow.
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Apr 27, 2017 22:24
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That is an admirable seat-recovering job. So much so that it takes away from the 26-year-old tractor look...
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Jun 18, 2017 02:00
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I've pinched tubes before. Loosely inflated and really powdered up, too. My technique must've just sucked. When I found out the Ninja 250 I was buying a couple of years ago rolls on tubeless wheels, I was so relieved.
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Jul 8, 2017 06:59
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I need a sticker like that, and I've never even owned a fuel injected bike...
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Nov 6, 2017 03:02
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Coydog posted:What's everyone's read on the bars, as well as the height. I've never had what could be rally height bars before. Should I lower them back down or try to find a taller seat? If you want the bar a smidgen lower, try simply rotating it downwards in the clamp. (Then rotate the hand controls upwards so they're all facing you again)
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Nov 6, 2017 05:13
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Don't; those are the rays of the freedum-sun. Or bullet trails.
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Nov 8, 2017 16:44
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Buhbuhj posted:oil spinner Don't tell me that the Grom engine is so basic, that it doesn't even have an oil pump.
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Nov 9, 2017 03:11
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I was wondering what was going on. I was like, "throttle linkages?? What is that in the image? That must be one heavy duty throttle tube. Woodruff key??"
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Nov 21, 2017 16:50
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Carb work is so satisfying when done right. Doesn't the EX250 have two though? It does. They're not too easy to pull, either. Congrats, Laminator.
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Nov 26, 2017 17:50
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Deeters posted:I tried changing my tires with spoons for the first time. I was able to get one done today. Cough it up... how many tubes did you pinch.
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Feb 11, 2018 05:12
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Fuel injection = cheating
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Feb 17, 2018 22:47
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America has a proud tradition of snake oils. (Extracted via distiller-modified dab rigs) Perhaps my book "You Won't Believe How Americans Are Getting You To Buy Their poo poo Now (OMG)" might shed some light on the subject. Available everywhere circled in red with a big arrow pointing at it.
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Apr 2, 2018 02:32
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I had the special push-on pack. I forget what brand it was... probably YUASA. The bike was a... was it an XT350? I think it was my old XT350. Just invert the pack onto the battery cell orifices and press down. Dog Case and I have the same bike, GN125. I managed to get a sealed battery for that model from a company called MotoBatt on ebay. The bike came with an Autozone-like generic powersports battery from the previous owner that lasted an improbable 6 years. It was still good when I took it off the bike, but I knew that it couldn't last much longer.
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Apr 7, 2018 23:44
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Shelvocke posted:(mysterious red grit) You got this too? I think it's pulverized rust. It appeared in my carb float bowls after putting sea foam in the tank. It's so fine that a half-inch of packed grit (silt is a better word) was able to keep the float bowl from draining when I opened the drain screw.
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May 2, 2018 20:50
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Renaissance Robot posted:Almost gave up because I have no idea what the gently caress I'm doing, but persevered and got the carbs off finally I saw that you're still having trouble in the other thread, so, I'll say that I also had all the symptoms of a clogged pilot jet. I bought what I heard was good for cleaning them—guitar wire*, 9 or 10 gauge—and took my carbs apart. They looked totally clean. You could even see through the pilot jet holes. I cleaned them regardless, moving the wire in and out of every orifice. When I put them back together, bike had no more symptoms. So, you really gotta clean them beyond what appears to be clean. They're sensitive. *This is made of steel, and carb jets are brass, so you have to be delicate, or you might inadvertently be giving yourself bigger carb jets. The copper wire strand recommended in another thread is softer and safer, but not as easy to use. (Not particularly cheaper though, as the guitar wire itself was like £1.)
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Jun 5, 2018 20:46
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Be careful about those generic gravity-feed replacement petcocks. I ordered one for my GS750 10 years ago, and it worked fine for a year. Then, the action of rotating the valve from OFF to ON over time wore a groove in the valve face, which allowed the valve to go out of alignment with the passages inside. After that, it leaked gas through the valve face until I replaced it with a new OEM petcock.
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Jul 1, 2018 04:03
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Dear Diary, I love feeling the tiny Gs of my GN125 accelerating to its max power in top gear at 60 mph. I hit an indicated 67 today. 70 is in sight. Gonna post about it on the cool forums and show my internet friends! I will be crowned inter-king. I will receive a GN125 trophy (covered in the appropriate rust) I wonder if the tachometer drive seal will ever stop leaking 
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Jul 7, 2018 05:23
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I don't even know. Before the Winter, it was running like Slavvy said, kind of slow and run-down. After the Winter, something just loosened up in the valves or Chinese Mikuni-copy carburetor I bought for it and it's been running like a scalded dog. Twist ending: the speedometer isn't accurate any longer.
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Jul 7, 2018 13:48
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Is that what happens when you mix DOT 3 and DOT 5?
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Jul 16, 2018 05:11
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I know that one of them was for the oil, in the very distant past, and then, one was just for decoration. What is it now?
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Jul 18, 2018 04:31
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:The other day I rode bikes from 1998 and 2005 and 1972 and 1923 in the same day How did it feel to fidget with a manual oil pump and ignition retard, and then fidget with the mode select...
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Jul 22, 2018 04:25
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If you're thrifty, you don't even need an autolubing mechanism; chain life is drastically increased if you oil it every fuel-up. I know everyone uses that fancy chain wax or whatever it is nowadays, but I follow this advice and I rarely adjust my chains any longer. I just put mine on the centerstand and spin the rear wheel with my right hand while my left hand applies 80-weight gear oil. Takes less than 5 minutes, and I've been on the same bottle of gear oil for, like, 5 years. (Of course, the rear wheel will look like you're taking a perpetual trip through mud slurry. This is a good strategy for commuter bikes and other daily-ridden bikes whose swingarm pivot greasing maintenance interval you couldn't give less of a poo poo about) Back when I had my CB250, which has no centerstand in the US, it was still easy to oil the chain fequently. (But centerstands just make all maintenance easier. Sucks that most bikes no longer have them.)
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Jul 24, 2018 01:37
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All I know is, I had a GS750 with a non-o-ring chain that I still oiled pretty frequently, and THAT chain wore really fast. I was adjusting that chain much more often than my CB250's chain, difference in power notwithstanding. (By the way, being the PO slob that I am, I never maintain these chains beyond oiling—no cleaning, nothin') Maybe the oil is just for lubricating the o-rings after all, so that they stay plump, and the grease that they're retaining stays moist.
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Jul 24, 2018 04:49
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That picture reminds me... when buying a replacement clutch, is it recommended to buy new metal interleaving plates when you buy the friction plates?
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Aug 17, 2018 14:14
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I ordered tires for my GN125. Discovered the ziptie trick on youtube (ziptie the tire carcass shut so that the tire lips will fit inside the rim center groove more easily, then fit it), and I already have tire irons. Maybe I can combine them, and change my own tubed tires and finally not pinch the loving tube.
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Sep 16, 2018 01:16
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Do you mean, with the zipties? That's what I plan to do: Put the tube in the tire, inflating it slightly, then seal it all up with zipties like a stuffed crust pizza (with the valve stem sticking out so I can put it through its little hole in the rim). After that, just wrestle it onto the rim like usual. 
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Sep 16, 2018 05:05
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Slide Hammer posted:Do you mean, with the zipties? That's what I plan to do: Put the tube in the tire, inflating it slightly, then seal it all up with zipties like a stuffed crust pizza (with the valve stem sticking out so I can put it through its little hole in the rim). loving success! Plenty of lube does make a difference. Sorry Slaavy, I trust your experience, but I don't trust my own skill and used zipties to clamshell the tube away from the tire irons. It does mean doing two lips at once, but it wasn't so bad. The front was especially easy—was able to break the bead with my bare hands and almost mount it with my bare hands. The rear was more difficult, because it was stiffer, but it was manageable. The front is a 90-section tire while the rear is a 110-section tire, so it might be much more of a hassle with wider tires.
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Sep 21, 2018 01:03
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Fixed a flat. "It would be bad if I got a flat when they're doing all this construction here in the parking garage where I love to park," I said. This is how I got a flat last time. I'm so glad I was on the Ninja 250 and not the GN 125, or I'd still be there. I forgot to put rubber cement on the tar straw when I drove it into the tire, though. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
Looking goooood.
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Oct 18, 2018 01:00
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What the hell was that? It's like a tree gall for tires. Did you see what was on the other side when the tire came off?
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Oct 21, 2018 05:56
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The JPS Firebolt...
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Jan 13, 2019 03:25
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