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Holy crap I didn't see this thread. Cross posting from the Questions thread. I'm buying a drz400sm  and I'm preeeeeetty excited  It needs new tires. I know nothing about tires. I'm not riding any dirt at all, so is there a default sticky street tire I can go for? Tubes, or tubeless? 
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Sep 25, 2013 16:50
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 18:14 |
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epalm posted:I'm buying a drz400sm Owned a GS500 for 1 year. Owned a V-Strom 650 for 1 year. Just bought a DRZ400sm. Initial reaction, in summary: Holy poo poo Initial reaction, in detail:
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Sep 26, 2013 05:51
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wallaka posted:The acceleration was fun until I realized I was in 5th gear at 35 mph and that's all. I did love that I could thrash it through all the gears though, the 675 will have me arrested in second so by necessity I short shift and that isn't as fun. The DRZ is definitely a FUN bike and I miss it. Seems to me, on the street I would rather ride a slow bike fast, rather than riding a fast bike slow (until the inevitable "gently caress it" leading to jailtime level speeds). epswing fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Sep 26, 2013 |
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Sep 26, 2013 06:24
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Since I inspected the bike thoroughly yesterday, and took it for a 10 minute test ride, I figured it would be fine to just ride it home (15 km). So everything is going fine, until 3/4 of the way home, the bike lurches, engine dies a little, then lurches back to life, throttle input is shaky, engine finally dies and I coast to a stop. Several thoughts flew through my head, including "I can't believe I just paid hard earned cash for a bike with Problems (tm)" and "how could the PO let me ride it home if he KNEW something was wrong with it" and "how far am I going to have to push this thing, at least it's not too heavy". Starts right back up, I cautiously resume, engine dies again within a couple kilometers. This time it only starts if I give it some choke. Engine dies at the smallest bit of throttle. Finally I realize I'm out of gas At this point I'm pretty much home, so I just push it into the parking garage, fill up my little red can at the nearest gas station, and we're back in business  Coredump posted:Yes but soon you're going to have to ponder this conundrum about sidewalks, stairs, loading docks, curbs and the occasional emergency escape grass route. What then? I don't know what did you do?wallaka posted:That was kind of my point. I had mine geared to top out at 82 mph, just enough for highway use. Just echoing and agreeing with your sentiments, friend.
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Sep 26, 2013 06:43
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JP Money posted:Don't forget that unlike FI bikes there's a reserve. Turn the fuel petcock to the opposite side of where it normally operates to get to it. Note this only applies on stock tanks. I think it's about .4 gallons but don't quote me there. Yeah you'd think a year on a GS500 (carbed with reserve) would have triggered the lightbulb. Nope. (I was too to think straight at the time.)
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Sep 26, 2013 15:24
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I have 2 probably retarded DRZ questions. I also probably lack the vocabulary required to properly express myself. I have not acquired the DRZ shop manual yet (I have a 2006). I'm attempting to adjust the chain. 1. After removing the cotter pin and loosening the axle nut, I can wiggle the back wheel a little to either side. The axle bolt (or just "the axle"?) goes through a movable rectangular-looking thing that I will refer to as The Thing. To adjust the chain slack, do I need to remove the axle nut and bolt (won't the tire come off?) and slide The Thing all the way back and out, so I can access the bolt "X" coming out of the swingarm?  (Not my bike.) 2. After eyeballing The Thing for a couple minutes and deciding to ask online, I re-tightened the axle nut to 72.5 lb-ft. At this spot in its rotation, the holes don't line up for cotter pin insertion, and I had to loosen the axle nut about 1/8 of a turn to make it fit. What up with that?
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Oct 1, 2013 08:13
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Thanks all, you guys are champs  It looks like the adjuster bolt has a nut on one side (closer to the adjuster plate), and another on the other side (closer to the engine). I guess I'll just try turning both (harder) and see which one gives. Neither was giving yesterday. The other issue I had was actually turning the adjuster bolt. Once you've got the teeth of the wrench in place, the wrench only has a tiny little bit of turn in either direction. Maybe I'm using the wrong tool. epswing fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Oct 1, 2013 |
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Oct 1, 2013 15:21
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UGH, thank you. So simple.
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Oct 1, 2013 15:44
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Replaced the rubber on my 2006 drz. The rear was from a few years ago, and almost bald. The front had some tread but turns out it's the original tire from 2005. Yeah. Fresh Pilot Powers on front (120) and rear (150) and this is my face now 
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Oct 4, 2013 03:46
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Just had both tires on the DRZ SM replaced with Pilot Power rear (150) front (120). I'm experiencing some sort of up/down bouncing/shaking when riding in a straight line on a nicely paved road, which I noticed when the brake line which loops up and over the dash was bouncing around more than usual. I don't know much about suspension, so I'm not used to evaluating these kinds of things yet. If I ride up to 100kph, pull the clutch and coast back down, it's worst right around 60kph. I checked tire pressure when I got home (I should have done this right after the tire change, I know), and it was 33 front, 36 rear. The internet leads me to believe it should be much lower, like 24 front, 29 rear. I adjusted the tire pressure as such and rode around the block, which didn't seem to help. I don't have a stand, otherwise I'd lift the bike and spin the wheels, looking for imperfections. Maybe it's time for a stand. Suggestions? Edit: Clymer says 25 front, 29-33 rear. epswing fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Oct 10, 2013 |
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Oct 10, 2013 23:41
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JP Money posted:Check your chain. For a massive kink? Am I experiencing a chains last dying words, and actually shouldn't ride it until I get a new chain/sprockets?
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Oct 11, 2013 04:04
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The chain is loose, but as I understand, it's supposed to be on a bike with such a flexible swingarm (most sumos, right?). I haven't had a chance to check closely for kinks in the chain yet. I'll be doing that tomorrow morning.
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Oct 11, 2013 04:58
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Took my DRZ into the shop to have the guys that installed my tires look it over, hoping to find the source of the roughness/bouncing I was experiencing. Turns out the tires are fine but the wheel is slightly ovaled.  (Also, forks are slightly bent.) epswing fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Oct 12, 2013 |
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Oct 12, 2013 21:31
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So if I wanted to replace the front wheel, thanks to the PO crashing and ovaling it, I would want #14 in this diagram? http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/oem-parts/SUZUKI/2008/DRZ400SM/FRONT-WHEEL-(MODEL-K5~K6) Or for what looks like a similar price, are these what I'm after? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-DRZ-400-E-ES-S-SUPERMOTO-MOTARD-WHEEL-SET-17-BLACK-BLACK-/190946291168
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Oct 30, 2013 20:25
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So I would order that wheel, and go to the shop with it and my current wheel, and say "move my tire/hub/rotor from X to Y"?
epswing fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 20:33
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Marxalot posted:I've been thinking about picking up a DRZ and I managed to find a used one in my area that doesn't seem beat to poo poo. The only issue that I can see without going out and looking at it in person is that it has some kind of aftermarket exhaust on it, and around here that tends to mean the previous owner tried to make it as loud as they possibly could. The DRZ I bought came with that FMF pipe. It's pretty loud, and pops/burbles on light decel. From an observer perspective, it actually sounds pretty great. From the rider perspective, it forces me to wear earplugs, which I should be doing anyways, so that's actually good. I'd say it's almost obnoxiously loud. I'm still deciding if I want to rip it off and sell it, since the PO also included the stock pipe.
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Nov 11, 2013 16:53
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I think I want a 690 pretty badly, but they're nearly impossible to find in Ontario  Edit: the 690 SMC, obviously epswing fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Nov 13, 2013 |
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Nov 13, 2013 17:44
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Z3n posted:On the bright side, I could buy it for you and would be totally willing to ride it down to San Diego. How about Toronto?
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Nov 13, 2013 21:40
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I've read in a couple places that the DRZ is a little heavy, and a little underpowered. Which sumo is a little lighter, and a little stronger?
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Nov 27, 2013 05:23
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Trust me, if I could find a KTM 690 SMC anywhere in Ontario, I'd buy it.
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Nov 27, 2013 07:00
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A guy let me test ride his 2005 625 SMC (dual akra exhaust). It was vibey but managably so, and buckets of fun. Like pretty much every listed 690/625 SMC, it had 25000km on the clock. Also the clutch lever had gashed the engine case in a fall, the bars were not straight, and the engine twice made a high pitched PINGGG noise while it was warming up. I passed.
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Nov 27, 2013 17:13
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I thought the SMC was the 690 supermoto. Educate me.
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Nov 28, 2013 02:12
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Would one expect the DRZ coolant overflow tank (on the clutch side, just under the seat) to generally be empty? Unless the bike is overheating and the coolant has expanded and overflowed. Right?
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Dec 2, 2013 05:00
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That's what I did. 2011 DRZ400sm, lowsided on the right side, some scuffs on the bar end, brake lever, peg, not much else though (the wheels had plastic sliders on them, probably helped). But the bars and the front fender don't line up with the wheel. I saw a youtube video where the guy loosened all the fasteners below the triple trees except the top ones and pushed down on the bars a few times to align everything. I don't have a rear stand like in the video (can't push down on the bars), but I can get my hands on a lift, so would I do the same except wiggle the wheel in the air? How do I know if I need new bars?
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Jan 17, 2014 16:16
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Do all these DRZ400s torque specs apply to the DRZ400sm? http://dwulet.com/bikes/docs/Torque_DRZ400S.PDF This guy seems to think, for example, the upper/lower triple clamp bolts should both be 16.5 ft/lbs, compared to 21.5 and 23 on the linked sheet. epswing fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jan 26, 2014 |
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Jan 26, 2014 21:48
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Put it up on a crate, loosen everything, grip the front wheel with your knees and twist the bars until everything is in alignment. Don't loosen them too much or the forks will drop out of the triples. You should be able to eyeball the bars to tell if they're hosed enough to need replacing. Did this. Loosened too much and the forks almost dropped out of the triples . That was fun to fix. The wheel and forks and triple clamps are all aligned now. Bars are still off, and it turns out that the bar is straight, but the part that clamps the handlebar clamps to the top triple is bad. Took those off, and on one of them, the rubber part (bushing?) is borked, which borks the handlebar clamps, which borks the handlebars. I hope all that makes sense. I'll try and find a picture to clarify. Something I noticed after torquing all the pinch bolts to spec was, I could still hold the wheel with my knees and with some force, bend the alignment of the forks just a little bit (as in, there's a little bit of play there). When I let go, everything aligns properly. Normal? epswing fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jan 27, 2014 |
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Jan 27, 2014 18:29
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Why do speedometers show incorrect speeds? You know the wheel radius and the number of revolutions over a period of time, why wouldn't it be perfect? Small differences in radius between bikes where all else is identical?
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Mar 9, 2014 01:46
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I am confused. I bought a 10mm crush washer, but it doesn't look like pictures of crush washers I've seen online. It's totally flat, not conical/tapered.  Did I get the wrong thing? Did they ship the wrong thing? The DRZ has two drain bolts of different sizes. Should I have 2 crush washers, one for each drain bolt?
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Apr 6, 2014 16:15
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I haven't verified this other than a quick googling, but it seems like the crank case plug is 12mm and the frame plug is 10mm. So the crush washer I have (10mm) is not even the one I really need.
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Apr 6, 2014 17:05
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Something is going on with my 2011 DRZ. Once in a while, when I downshift and blip the throttle to rev match, I hear a loud CLICK-CLACK. The downshift succeeds and the bike performs as expected otherwise. As an experiment, while idling I blipped the throttle a few times like those Other Guys like to do so much at stop lights. If the blip is quick enough, I hear a CLICK just before the standard motor rev sound I expect to hear. What's going on here? Is the piston missing a stroke?
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Apr 13, 2014 06:13
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Yes, the above experiment was run while stationary, without shifting. As far as I know it's still the stock ACCT. More info: The bike has about 6000 km on it. I changed the oil last week with Rotella T6.
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Apr 13, 2014 14:55
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KozmoNaut posted:E: Of course it helps that it holds like 3 liters of oil, compared to the thimbleful of the DRZ. The DRZ takes between 1.7 litres and 1.9 litres depending on if you change the oil filter, so a little more than a thimbleful 
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Apr 16, 2014 21:56
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Replacing the tires on my DRZ sumo. Confirm for me please: Pilot Power 2CTs and 3s are out because the smallest rear is 160, which is borderline too wide. So I'm looking at a set of Pilot Powers, or Pilot Road 3s (120 front, 150 rear). Any advice? I'm not tracking the bike anytime soon, mostly just commuting and spirited surface street riding. Edit: the nearest shop quoted me $327.92 for the set of Powers, and $447.90 for the Road 3s, not including labour. Does this sound reasonable? epswing fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 22:09
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You seem to be really stuck on this. Just ride normally, and don't take any long trips for the first 600 miles  what's the problem?And ok, try not to lug it, if you can help it. And don't wail on it before the engine has warmed. But you should be doing those things anyways, so again, ride normally!
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May 2, 2014 01:58
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May 2, 2014 04:49
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:Get rid of those rubbers for your feetsies more grip for jumps and wheelies. Yeah I moved from riding a 2006 bareback, to a 2011 with rubbers. The rubbers feel weird
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May 2, 2014 15:21
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Does it? I just put a new chain and sprockets on mine (yay +3 in the rear) and I was thinking about just leaving the cover off alltogether and just using the stock case guard that goes under the cover When you say "case guard" I'm assuming you mean the chain guide that prevents the chain from smashing the case if (when!?) the chain breaks. Since those two 8mm bolts go through the sprocket cover and the chain guide, then without the sprocket cover you'll need shorter bolts.
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May 2, 2014 15:25
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Is there an agreed-upon Best DRZ SM Seat(tm)? I've read horrendous things about the Suzuki gel seat, and the slippery/hard Corbin. I've read the Seat Concepts seat is a little better, but the best reviews are for the Renazco and the Rick Mayer. I'm thinking of biting the bullet and getting the Rick Mayer http://www.rickmayercycle.com/
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May 6, 2014 21:54
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Yerok posted:I really wish I could get in touch with Sisneros. If only the god of DRZ jetting would smile upon me. Jim Silly-Balls posted:You wont, he has basically abandoned everyone. Thumpertalk forum members in general should be able to help though. Who was this guy?
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May 7, 2014 17:49
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 18:14 |
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Almost-related: A nearby shop slapped a fresh set of Pilot Powers on my DRZ sumo, and now the brakes are...weaker. I don't know if spongy is the right term, but I need to squeeze harder to get the same effect as before. As far as I can tell the lever doesn't come any closer to the bar when I squeeze it.
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May 8, 2014 21:59
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