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Jonny Nox posted:Just don't accidentally dip your decals in the coffee The other night I was putting decals on a Hasegawa Datsun 240Z and I was also drinking a cup of water. I learned a lesson that night, don't keep your drinking water cup next to your decal dunking cup. Especially when you put a tiny amount of dish soap in the decal water.
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Sep 1, 2019 23:02
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What's the purpose for decanting a spray paint? So you can brush the paint? With Tamiya paints I can see that making sense. It annoys me so much that they don't have brushable paints in the same colors as their sprays.
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Sep 14, 2019 21:36
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I sent an email to Tamiya USA suggesting they make a line of stand alone engine models in like 1:4s scale for some of the popular Japanese engines like Toyota 2JZ, Nissan RB26DETT and SR20, Mazda Rotary and others like that. It would be cool if they needed assembly and were made of the same plastic their car models are made of so you could paint and customize them like painting the valve covers. They wrote me back and said they would forward my suggestion to Tamiya Japan 
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Dec 5, 2019 22:17
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Raskolnikov38 posted:whats the email address. i need someone to make a 1/350 john c butler destroyer escort usa_support@tamiya.com
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Dec 6, 2019 00:22
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Hey do you folks think I would have any issues using Testors spray lacquer over Tamiya spray primer? I have a can of Testors Go Mango spray (its a Mopar color) and I'm doing a Revell 69 Dodge Dart so it would go perfectly with it except I only have Tamiya primer.
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Dec 6, 2019 22:57
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Gewehr 43 posted:I irrevocably hosed up the centerpiece decal on this P-47 I'm working on. Now my options are to either finish the build without the airplane's name on the nose, or to spend $25 for one decal. ugh. Surely there's gotta be some kind of aftermarket decal that doesn't cost that much?
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Dec 25, 2019 23:03
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I have a car that I need to apply clearcoat too. I do it with a rattle can outside but its been raining like crazy for about 2 days now. It finally stopped but as you can image the air is reallyyy humid also its in the high 40s fahrenheit. Would it be a bad idea to clearcoat the car right now? I dont know if the humidity and cold temperature would have an adverse effect on the clear.
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Dec 27, 2019 22:21
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Overdude posted:Calling this T-55 I grabbed from the grocery store done. 1:72 scale, Revell. Painted mostly with vallejos acrylics by hand. Never built a kit in 1:72 scale and I've had a couple of years break from the hobby. A quick and fun build.  thats amazingly nice!
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Dec 27, 2019 23:10
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I go through glue bottles fast because I'm always clogging up the applicator tips
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Dec 31, 2019 03:50
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Dumb question but does the Tamiya clear coat that comes in the little jars work ok through an airbrush? Also does anyone know any good primers that work in an airbrush?
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Jan 17, 2020 21:48
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So I got a 3 gallon, 125psi air compressor to air up my tires. I was wondering, if I use the right adaptors and I guess a regulator? Can I hook up an airbrush to it for my models?
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Jan 24, 2020 00:27
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Bill Posters posted:Absolutely. That's what I do and it works well. Most likely louder than a smaller dedicated compressor, but runs far less often due to the large tank. Oh sweet that's the answer I was hoping for. So is all I need just a regulator and the right size hose and/or adaptors?
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Jan 24, 2020 02:03
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Is it just me or is Tamiya clear spray really flat? I do exclusively car models and Everytime I spray the clear over the body it doesn't look any different than before I sprayed. Even after 3 coats. I never get the "wet look" from it. Maybe I need to hold the can closer to the body when I'm spraying?
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Jan 25, 2020 21:03
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Currently stripping the paint off of a Porsche kit after I messed up some time ago so I have to go back to square one while I wait for new decals to arrive. I'd forgotten that simple green doesn't do a whole heap to tamiya spray so I've switched to isopropyl which is shifting the paint and primer off the body although its going slowly. I think oven cleaner works well for stripping paint? It works really well for me for de-chroming parts so I assume paint would come off easily although I have not tried it myself. Also I'm not sure how glued/cemented pieces would react to it.
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Jan 26, 2020 07:56
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Maksimus54 posted:Looking for advice on beginner equipment and education on airbrushing. The only modeling I've done was easy snap together stuff as a kid. Are there any good youtubers to follow that give decent advice for new folks? Any specific air brushes or kits recommended? I do have a shop air compressor that I could add another regulator to if needed. I've never heard bad things about Iwata, Tamiya, and Harder and Steenbeck or whatever it's called.
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Jan 28, 2020 01:15
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So are Zero paints still basically impossible to get in the US?
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Mar 1, 2020 17:52
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Phi230 posted:Does anyone have any decent resources on how to fill gaps and seams? I am using Tamiya White Putty. I'm trying it thinned down with laquer thinner but it doesn't seem to getting flush. Do I have to resort to overfilling + sanding? There's detail I don't want to destroy on this kit., I've had my best luck with overfilling and sanding down and using a very fine grit to make it flush. Also, I haven't tried this myself but I've heard you can use cyano glue to fill in seams.
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Mar 5, 2020 22:10
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Does anyone here watch the scalemodeling channel on YouTube? He does 100% car/motorcycle models. Most builds he does he paints with Zero paints in an airbrush and he gets amazingly smooth results. I never see him having to do any kind of wet sanding or polishing of any kind he just sprays the color, sprays the clear and let's it dry and always gets a glassy, wet like look from it just like a real car. So my question is, is this normal for airbrushes? I have only been Tamiya spray cans and have been getting horrible, orange peely results.
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Mar 13, 2020 18:00
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I wish Tamiya made muscle car models. I mean they have made pretty much every Japanese and European car there is you'd think theyd want to expand their catalog.
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Mar 18, 2020 15:40
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Fearless posted:Not really. I learned more from working on difficult, poorly engineered kits than I ever did from the easier ones and there is a different degree of satisfaction that comes from overcoming something like that as opposed to working on a kit that almost puts itself together. This is why I only do Tamiya car kits on occasion and typically do revells. The revells piss me off to no end so it's like taking a nice vacation when I do Tamiya and everything just fits.
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Mar 25, 2020 05:09
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Fuckin shag carpet. I just lost a drat E brake handle
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Mar 26, 2020 03:10
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Symetrique posted:Spend a couple of hours fabricating a new one. This was me in the past 😭 And it will be me again soon I guarantee it 😭
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Mar 26, 2020 17:18
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If you folks want to see some absolutely jaw dropping car builds check out the Nandemo-Seisaku Youtube channel. Hes a hobbyist in Japan and there's no voice overs just soothing music. The amount of extra detail he puts in is insane. https://youtu.be/QUOQbVysjDs
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Mar 27, 2020 18:58
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Taintrunner posted:Do I need to file down Tamiya putty before priming? I tried it for the first time and was a bit messy with it trying to fix gaps in a 1/72 Hasegawa F-18 which was a real pain in the rear end to work with compared to the usual kits I do. In my experience if you want a nice even finish then yes you should file it down or sand it before priming. The texture of the putty will show through paint if you don't. I sand it down with something coarse like 500 grit then finish it with something like 3000 grit to get it smooth. However I do car models so I'm looking for the smoothest finish possible. If you're doing military models it might not be as important.
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Mar 30, 2020 14:44
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grassy gnoll posted:Hitherto unknown levels of crapkit build power. It looks better than the crappy tankless $90 airbrush I got on Amazon
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Apr 1, 2020 19:37
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I spray painted the body of my Skyline R34 model with Tamiya spray yesterday. I put the paint on a little on thick side and I need to color sand it down. It's been about 24 hours is it too soon to sand?
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Apr 2, 2020 16:35
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Another decal argument I hear a lot is do you put them on before or after clear coat (this is for cars)? I think I'm pretty firmly in the "after clear coat" camp now after I sanded right through the clear and into a decal on my last build.
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Apr 3, 2020 19:47
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Slugworth posted:Question for the thread, would appreciate quick answers - Where'd that piece I just dropped go? I posted almost the exact same question a few weeks ago when I lost an e brake handle in my shag carpet. The response I got was "just make a new one out of sprue material and as soon as you glue it in the model you'll find the original one in the carpet"
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Apr 8, 2020 04:29
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I had a piece that kept launching every time I grabbed it with tweezers. So I finally got fed up and studied up artillery trajectory tables to pinpoint where it landed.
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Apr 8, 2020 15:04
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Does anyone know of a good masking tape to use that's pretty wide? Like wide enough to cover half a car model or bigger? I have some Tamiya tape that is probably about 2 inches wide so it takes a lot of tape to cover up and entire car
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Apr 12, 2020 04:43
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SkunkDuster posted:If you like watching videos of people obsessing over insane detail, you should check out Scale Model Workshop (Paul Budzik). He is a retired dentist and he goes to great levels of effort for the sake of accuracy. One example I can think of is where he removes the molded framework from airplane canopies and just paints them on (after creating masks from scratch), then goes on to mathematically show how the thickness of the paint layers is more true to scale than the raised plastic on the supplied canopies. I enjoy watching his videos, but I don't know if I would enjoy modeling as much (or ever finish a model) if I went to the extremes he does. I love the scale modeling channel. But if you want to see an INSANE level of detail, check out Nandemo Seisaku https://www.youtube.com/user/nandemoseisaku
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Apr 15, 2020 22:02
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So really dumb question about airbrushing. I live in an apartment and I don't have an airbrush yet but I really want one. Is it a terrible bad idea to use one indoors with no ventilation? From videos I see it looks like an airbrush doesn't make a lot of excess mist like a spray can does. I could do it on the porch, but that would really cumbersome and I live in an area that gets extremely hot like 100-110 during the summer so that probably isn't good for airbrushing. I can do it inside but theres no way to ventilate it here. It's probably a bad idea right?
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Apr 20, 2020 16:47
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I've heard the term crazing a bunch of times but I'm not sure what it means. Does it mean the paint basically melts the plastic?
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Apr 22, 2020 15:21
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Vorenus posted:I'm getting some Vallejo acrylic Model Color because apparently Tamiya acrylics are bad for brushpainting and it's not me, it's the paint. I'm reading a lot of conflicting information: The paint doesn't need to be thinned, it does need to be thinned. With water. Not water, Vallejo thinner. A mix of vallejo thinner and water. It needs to be primed because Vallejo doesn't adhere to bare plastic as well as Tamiya. Wait, it doesn't need to be primed, I've been brushpainting Model Color for five centuries without ever using primer. You're best bet is to just experiment until you get the result you want. Because like you said, the internet is going to give you a million different (and often contradictory) answers. Although some things I can't see having any real downside, like priming the part before painting. As far as the thinness of the paint, there's always going to be some variance right out of the bottle. I mainly use Tamiya acrylics and it can vary from bottle to bottle and some colors seem to be much thicker/thinner than others. Like I have some colors I cant paint right out of the jar with, and some other ones that are way too thick and need to be thinned and some that are way too thin right out of the bottle. So you need to test it out first.
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May 5, 2020 16:59
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So apparently Tamiya black spray paints are impossible to find right now. I accidently bought a spray can of Testors flat black enamel (I thought it was lacquer) I've never used enamel before so I had a few questions: 1. Can I spray it over tamiya primer? I believe Tamiya primer is lacquer based so I don't know if it will have a nasty reaction. 2. Can I paint over enamel with acrylics? 3. How long will it take enamel to fully dry/cure? I think I've heard that it takes a really long time.
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May 21, 2020 22:50
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What can I use to thin out Tamiya putty? Lacquer thinner? Water?
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May 24, 2020 16:11
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Molentik posted:I gave up on airbrushing primers after I discovered the rattlecans from Mr.Surfacer. This. I like the Tamiya rattle can primers and I always sand then down extra smooth afterwards.
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May 25, 2020 20:03
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Anyone know a good way to get rid of fingerprints on clear parts? like window glass in car models? It's sort of impossible to not handle them when you are setting them in place and gluing them in and I always end up getting fingerprints on them that I can't remove with anything I've tried so far.
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May 26, 2020 14:39
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Furism posted:I just learned the hard way that letting a decal sit vertically after soaking it with Micro Sol is not a good idea. Did it melt down the side of the model?
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Jun 4, 2020 17:16
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 18:19 |
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A question for anyone who spray paints or airbrushes in an apartment. How well does your spray booth setup work? I'm thinking of getting one of those spray booths you see on eBay that has a fan and exhaust hose designed to exit out a window. If you're in a small apartment is this good enough to get all the fumes out? Mainly I'm concerned about lacquer fumes. I'd hate to have lingering fumes in my living room killing whatever few brain cells I have left.
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Sep 2, 2020 17:14
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