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Twerk from Home posted:A Honda Fit or Honda CRV are some of the best bets for holding value. How do you know this about the Fit? It's kind of a new car in the United States. Are you just extrapolating this from used car prices for Civics and Accords?
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# ¿ Jan 15, 2015 20:15 |
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# ¿ May 19, 2024 20:18 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:The Fit has been here for a few years now and for pretty much all of those years, $currentyear-1 used Fits sell for very near the same price as $currentyear new Fits. Ok, so assuming no major change in the automobile market, these prices, and the general belief that Honda makes very reliable cars, are good enough to predict what a Fit bought today will be worth 10 years from now. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The Fit has been in the USA for eight years. It's not that new. Didn't realize that. Ok. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jan 15, 2015 |
# ¿ Jan 15, 2015 20:29 |
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jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I had to go, but the salesman said they would run the codes and get back to me. He said that it was nothing and the electronics just had to be reset and the check engine light is off now. Does that sound right? I did inform him that I was going to get it checked out by a mechanic, so he's aware I won't be buying it with major issues regardless. When your car's computer finds something wrong with one of your car's systems due to a sensor reading which doesn't make sense, it lights up the check engine light on your dash, which is supposed to warn the driver that something is wrong with your car and that it needs to be looked at. Disconnecting the battery turns off the computer, which temporarily turns off the check engine light, and doesn't fix the cause of the problem. After driving the car for a while, the check engine light most likely will turn back on because the issue didn't get fixed. The dealer very likely knows that there is some problem with the car, but doesn't want to put the effort and money into fixing it. jarjarbinksfan621 posted:I don't really know anything about cars, are you saying the CEL could be indicative of some major issue that a mechanic could easily miss on a pre-purchase inspection? It's not something that a mechanic could easily miss. I'm not an experienced car mechanic, but a competent mechanic, noticing that the check engine light is on, should be able to read out from the car's computer what sensor reading went awry, and most of the time should be able to diagnose the cause of that faulty sensor reading, assuming that it isn't a particularly nebulous problem. The entire purpose of this computerized diagnostic system is to make it easier for mechanics to diagnose and fix problems with cars. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Mar 26, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 26, 2015 00:30 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Second gen and current are the best. The Prius and V are significantly better than the C. One/Two/Three/four is just trim level poo poo - higher trim levels means more poo poo to break but its generally not mission critical stuff. What's wrong with the Prius C?
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# ¿ May 10, 2015 00:01 |
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Throatwarbler posted:Yes the folding seats give you more space than most other cars in the same category, but it's still a tiny car with a short wheelbase. Folding up the seats isn't going to help with rear passenger legroom, and 118hp vs ~170hp isn't nothing. I've test driven a Ford Focus and a Honda Fit, and the Fit actually had a more spacious back seat.
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2015 17:59 |
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Hadlock posted:Prius, 2009, around 110,000 miles. $9500 seems to be about the going price in my town. Apparently a shop in Houston (5 hours away) will put in a refurb battery for $800. With the Gigafactory around the corner lowering prices in about 3 years(which, I guess is how long that refurb battery might last) is this at all a good plan? Presumably the cost of refub batteries will continue to plummet as the price of cells drops by 30% by 2017. Aren't the batteries in the Prius and the Model S different technologies? The Prius uses a nickel metal hydride battery and the Tesla uses a lithium ion battery.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2015 14:47 |
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As someone who has never bought a car from a dealer, how normal is this idea for putting deposits down on cars which need to be shipped in to the dealership? Is this normal practice?
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2015 20:42 |
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Keyser S0ze posted:Refundable $1k deposits are normal for ordering a new car - I've done it twice. [i]Remember in the USA the dealer is basically on the hook for an ordered car (why they won't let you order a purple BMW with yellow leather anymore) and also why you won't find any manuals on lots. Is this normal for luxury cars only or is it true for economy cars too?
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2015 21:57 |
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When buying a car from a private seller on Craigslist, how are the logistics of a requested pre-purchase inspection handled? Does the seller typically drop the car off at the mechanic himself, or is it handled some other way? Or is it really just up to the preference of the seller?
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2015 14:08 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:From the things you have stacked up there I'd go Focus or maybe Civic. The Cobalt isn't very good, and neither is the Versa. Why do you recommend the Focus? Have they finally fixed the issues with the dual-clutch automatic transmission?
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2015 15:56 |
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Michael Scott posted:How did they get a buyer to agree to a price that's like $3k above blue book for a 2007 Camry in very good condition? I would always expect to sell slightly below blue book in a private party sale, but it's possible I'm an idiot. Just looking at Craigslist in my area, all Honda/Toyota compact cars are being listed at well above the KBB price. I know one guy who listed a 15-20 year old Civic at $1-2k above KBB price, and he sold the car within 15 minutes of posting it to Craigslist. I thought KBB was supposed to track sales prices and adjust so that KBB price=market price, but maybe not.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2015 15:42 |
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Is it a good idea to buy a car on an online service through truecar or Consumer Reports, or is emailing dealers and asking for price quotes just as good?
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2015 21:43 |
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skipdogg posted:Generally one can negotiate better than the car buying services and sites on their own, but if you don't enjoy or understand the car haggling process there are worse ways to buy a car Ok, that's what I suspected. One guy at work was raving about Consumer Reports and how purchasing from them gave you access to "fleet pricing", but that didn't make much sense to me since buying through Consumer Reports isn't like buying a bunch of cars in bulk and getting some kind of discount that way. He said that the Consumer Reports service is still through dealers and is not special orders from the factory or whatever.
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2015 22:26 |
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HisMajestyBOB posted:My 2008 Ford Focus SE was considered totaled in an accident and the insurance company is giving me the $6500 market-price of the vehicle rather than repair for what would likely be more than that. It's kind of inconvenient timing at the moment since I'm graduating from grad school next year and don't have anything lined up yet (most likely I will by the end of next spring, but still). I'm leaning towards getting something on the cheap end to last me a few years, saving some of the money I got, then buying something better and nicer. I'd rather not get a $6000 equivalent replacement because at least with the old car, I knew what was good on it and what wasn't - with a used car, The advice given in this thread for cars in that price range is that beggars can't be choosers. Really you need to pick the car in the best mechanical condition over stuff like trunk space/mpg/safety/marque. I suspect that overall, it is most likely cheaper per mile or per year of ownership to get a >$5k car than to get a $2k car and have to deal with the maintenance on it, even over a period of only a few years, but I'll let people with more experience with old cars comment on it. My only experience with old cars is that I bought a 20 year old sub $2k Ford from a friend of a friend which I thought was in pretty good condition and had really low mileage, and I've only put 10k miles on it over the span of two years, and it has had a lot of issues. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Nov 14, 2015 |
# ¿ Nov 14, 2015 17:06 |
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thank god for us posted:I'm pretty sure it was the sport. So the Mazda 3 GS. I like the idea of the console screen being elevated in the middle of the dash, but in practice it seems out of place. I do really like that its not a touch screen though, being able to navigate the screen with buttons is a lot easier. I think Mazda stole that design from BMW. It's really a nice feature of the car. What didn't you like about the interior?
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2015 14:07 |
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owl_pellet posted:My wife and I will be in the market for new cars in the next year or so, me because I have to return a lease in March, and her because her current car is like 10 years old and is starting to show signs of nickel and diming us. If reliability, cost of maintenance, mpg are the three of the five bullet points on your list, it may not be the best idea to get a Subaru, especially a WRX. If you are committed to your bullet points and want a wagon, a Prius V is a good car to get. If you secretly want a fun car, then get a fun car, but usually you have to compromise fuel efficiency, cost of ownership, and/or reliability for it.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2015 05:25 |
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euphronius posted:You need trunk space for groceries and strollers and pack and plays and luggage. Strollers are huge. Also if you want anyone to be able to sit in the front passenger seat the car has to be decently sized. If you have two car seats even more so. I've never had children, so I don't really know, but wouldn't it make sense to spend a little more and get a more compact stroller/child seat, rather than pay an extra 5-10k on getting a bigger car so you can buy the less expensive stroller and child seat? People in other countries somehow manage to be able to raise families without buying huge cars. I don't see really why you'd need one, other than buying one with a third row so you can transport children with their friends.
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2015 20:27 |
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HondaCivet posted:Do you agree with reviewers that the Mazda's ride is rougher and louder? If so is it a big difference or not so much? I guess I just want something that's comfortable because I'm gonna be doing some long drives in it. Try test driving both cars to compare how they drive and how their touchscreens are. I like the Mazda3 system a lot, mostly because it has knobs in the center divider where your right hand rests that let you navigate the menus without having to use the touchscreen (someone here said that they ripped that design off of BMW???) It probably doesn't do as much as Android Auto, though. Regarding navigation, you can either use your phone and connect the phone's audio output to your car speakers via cables or bluetooth, or you can buy navigation separately from the dealer. You aren't obligated to buy a certain trim level of MAZDA3 to get the navigation add-on, though.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2015 05:03 |
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HondaCivet posted:You can buy the nav separately? The little "build and price" app doesn't show it, but the brochures do show it as "optional" for the Touring now that I'm looking. Well that's confusing as hell. Yes. You can even buy it for the lowest trim level new MAZDA3 now since they all come with the same infotainment system. I agree that it is not clear on the website--I had to go in for a test drive and talk to the dealer to learn that. Edit: I just read your first post in the thread. I wouldn't discount the Honda Fit. It kind of looks like a small mini-van, and the interior of the LX model wasn't as nice as the MAZDA3, but if that doesn't bother you much, it is an incredibly practical car. It is more spacious than the MAZDA3 despite being a much smaller car. If you want navigation, you'll have to get the highest trim model though. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Dec 18, 2015 |
# ¿ Dec 18, 2015 15:43 |
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Throatwarbler posted:The pre Skyactiv cars got OK but not class leading fuel economy. They've moved production of the 2/3 to Mexico since 2014 which should resolve the rust problems. Why does manufacturing in Mexico resolve rust problems? Because it is dry there? Are you implying that all cars which are manufactured in Japan are susceptible to rust?
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2016 00:20 |
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Throatwarbler posted:Bottom line is that US made Japanese cars seem to have much fewer rust issues, and the forums seem to report no rust issues for the Mexican built mazdas, to the extent that anyone can know after 2 years or so, while certain Japanese built models did start to exhibit minor rust even after 2 or 3 years. I wonder if the cause is the humidity level in the factory. Like maybe they use less air conditioning in Japan. IRQ posted:I thought the sedan version was always made in mexico? i Trim is Mexican, s Trim is Japanese, I thought.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2016 22:14 |
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H110Hawk posted:Outside of your visibility assumptions, backup cameras are great for tight parking situations. Having a line where your actual bumper and corners are is amazing. Yes you can do it all without it, but why not let technology help? Especially since we are not all driving gods. They are nice for backing out of parking spots between two humongous vehicles. They allow you to see around the corner of the big cars. It's not a killer feature, but is nice. The cameras suck in the rain when there are droplets on the lens though.
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2016 03:32 |
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HondaCivet posted:Haha! I'd be going for a MS in mechanical engineering so I think I'd pull through OK, and ideally I should be able to get it funded so I won't have giant student loans either. I don't think that it is very common for terminal master's degrees to be funded. If you get a new job, maybe your employer will pay for it.
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2016 06:45 |
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That Works posted:I originally wanted to go with a cheap commuter vehicle but looking at finances and my upcoming commuting situations / spouse preferences that's shaped a couple of things. Wow, I'm going to be sounding like an Apple zealot who is explaining to someone why Your Preferences Are Wrong, but maybe you could try teaching your spouse how to use the side mirrors. In my experience, a lot of people who complain about rear visibility don't know how to use their side mirrors. Priuses also come with backup cameras a lot too. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 00:26 on May 2, 2016 |
# ¿ May 2, 2016 00:16 |
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Zeth posted:Proposed Budget: 20k or less, will be paying cash. You can also probably get a base model automatic transmission Mazda3 hatch for under 20k, out-the-door, new, since it doesn't have the Honda Tax. It doesn't have as much cargo room as the Fit though.
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# ¿ Oct 19, 2016 17:08 |
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Without knowing anything about anything, I suspect you'll get a better deal with the Mazda dealer, since Mazda doesn't coast on their brand like Honda does.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2016 17:34 |
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Maybe that car, being a smaller car with a smaller engine is not that unreliable. However, if expensive repair bills bother you and you worry a lot about reliability, you probably should only be buying economy cars.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2017 18:18 |
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Michael Scott posted:Besides the manual aspect, what's wrong with an old car in LA or Portland? Yeah, if you were to keep your old car, you'd be able to live the dream of the 90's in Portland . . .
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2017 23:02 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Look I'm just saying if you walk in here and demand only TCO and reliability and you don't buy a Prius you're not making an optimal decision. Does a Prius have a lower TCO than Japanese compact economy cars? I think it might be a pretty close call in a lot of situations.
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2017 19:39 |
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Prius TCO is ridiculous because not only is it very good on gas but it also requires almost no significant maintenance and all of the components are extremely reliable. For some cars, once you hit fairly high mileage, the battery needs replacing, but that's a one-time repair over the lifetime of the car that costs something like $1,200.. A Prius is like 5-7k more than a base model Japanese compact car though. Is the Prius so cheap to run & maintain that it comes out ahead even considering that 5-7k premium?
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2017 02:22 |
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Deteriorata posted:The primary thing it tells me overall is that maintenance and repair costs for modern cars are not something to worry about for most people. A couple thousand dollars in the purchase price is far more important in the economics of buying and owning a car. "Reliability" isn't all that different among them, at least not different enough to make a big difference overall. I don't think you can conclude that from your table though. People who should worry a lot about reliability/maintenance cost don't buy a new car every 5 years. I'm sure the disparity in maintenance/repair cost between a Japanese economy car and a Fiat/Mini would become much more apparent once you look past the car warranty period, and look instead over a 10-15 year period.
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2017 14:52 |
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Deteriorata posted:It's the estimated costs over the next five years of buying one now, based on the cost of an extended warranty for each. Oh, I see. Still, the comparison is at most looking at 8 year old cars with not that many miles on them. The average age of cars on the road in the US is ~11 years, and people who would care a lot about having a low total cost of car ownership would be interested in repair costs for cars which would be that age or older. I'm sure the repair/maintenance cost disparity would become more stark when you look at what happens when those cars get much older. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jun 17, 2017 |
# ¿ Jun 17, 2017 16:41 |
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The rear seats in a normal Ford Focus are really small. I remember the Honda Fit having way more room in the back than the Focus.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2017 21:38 |
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8-Bit Scholar posted:Yeah but I've put about 70,000 miles into her in the past two and a half years, her bumper drags and the combo meter needs replacing, which is close to a grand and requires a special order. She doesn't have four-wheel drive either, which is going to be brutal come winter. If you want to get a new car, get a new car. But your car isn't really on its last legs. Priuses can run for tons of miles and the prices for the combo meter replacement (parts+labor) I'm seeing online are not that close to a grand. AWD+your low cost repair is a pretty weak practical justification for getting a new car, when your current car is a Toyota which is less than 10 years old and has no major issues. Just say that you are tired of your old car and want a new one, but don't fool yourself into thinking that what you are doing is the low cost option. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Jul 29, 2017 |
# ¿ Jul 29, 2017 13:43 |
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Ursine Catastrophe posted:A hybrid is something I'd love, probably, but since I'm renting I won't be able to guarantee being in a parking spot that's in range of a power socket so that's probably a no go for now. You don't have to get a plug-in hybrid like the Chevrolet Volt or the Prius Prime/Prius Plug-in. You could just get a normal Prius which just takes gas and doesn't need to be charged.
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2017 11:02 |
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GlitterBob posted:The go-to answer for people with your budget and priorities is to get the nicest Prius they can find in their area for $10K. You’ll want a 2004 or newer model, the first generation is not worth looking at. It doesn’t make a lot of sense, to me at least, to sell your Corolla from 2002 purely because you think it is too old and then proceed to buy a 2004 Prius.
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2018 23:27 |
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Purely anecdotal, but I've had two mazdas with the new infotainment and have had no issues. I wonder what exactly was wrong? If you are used to iPhones, the Mazda interface is a little slow. It is also a little slow to start up and connect to my phone when I start my car. It drops calls a lot, although maybe that is an issue with T-Mobile in my area . . . The comment is puzzling though. The Mazda interface is still much better than a lot of other cars I’ve rented though. The BMW twisty knob they have to navigate the menus is a million times better than the purely touchscreen systems I’ve used in Toyota, Nissan, Subaru, Hyundai, and Chevrolet compact cars. It also is better designed than the Lexus infotainment system I’ve used in a family member’s new RX SUV, IMO, although maybe I just say that because I’m more familiar with the one in my Mazda3.
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2018 15:29 |
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therobit posted:I did have more than one customer say they flogged the motor like a rented mule. I'm not trying to argue against the thread advice to not buy rentals here, but does driving a modern car more aggressively (I'm assuming that aggressive driving does not mean e.g. dropping the car into neutral here) actually create reliability problems? I thought I read in here or AI that sometimes being too much of a grandma can create car problems, and that the 'Italian tuneup' was real and sometimes necessary. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Sep 3, 2018 |
# ¿ Sep 3, 2018 20:40 |
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It looks like the new Toyota Corolla Hatchback SE has all of the features you want (Apple CarPlay compatibility, automotive radar, narrower width than other cars) other than having a hybrid powertrain. I'd put that one on the top of your list. I agree with the other posters that buying a hybrid doesn't make sense for you economically since you don't drive very much. I'm not tall, and I haven't sat in the new model Corolla hatch, but it seemed to me like the Corolla and the Civic (also check that one out for sure, although it looks like a wider car) had pretty roomy interiors when compared to compact cars from other companies when I looked at compact cars a couple of years ago. Obviously don't let this advice prevent you from sitting in the car to see for yourself if you fit or not. I'd also like to add that if you are worried about price, buying an off-lease used car is a good option, and probably wouldn't be much more of a hassle to maintain when compared to a new car. It definitely won't be as much of a hassle to maintain when compared to your old Ford, presumably from the 90's. It will be harder to get the automotive radar & Apple CarPlay in a used car though. edit: If the reason why you are interested in hybrids is for ideological/environmental/sociological reasons, then I would recommend that you go all the way, and try to live without a car, and rent one or use car share services when you need a car, depending on the type of trip. This will save you a tonne of cash and you will earn major environmental brownie points. Having a personal car is pretty convenient though . . . silence_kit fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Oct 9, 2018 |
# ¿ Oct 9, 2018 15:02 |
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# ¿ May 19, 2024 20:18 |
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OldSenileGuy posted:She wants it for a number of reasons including environmental concern, but also the effect of looking at two cars side by side that are similarly priced, where one gets like 28/33 and the other gets 50/55. That seems like a big enough difference to be worth it. Are there any other reasons NOT to get a hybrid besides the “you’ll only save $XXX on gas per year so you won’t make your money back until 10 years” type argument? Here's one. I will be picking on your must-be-new car requirement, sorry! If you drive only 3000 miles per year, then the difference in your annual CO2 emissions created by burning fuel in a 30 mpg normal vehicle vs. a 50 mpg hybrid vehicle is ~800 pounds of CO2 emissions per year (source: https://www.eia.gov/tools/faqs/faq.php?id=307&t=11). For reference, the carbon emissions created when manufacturing a new mid-size sedan: 34000 pounds CO2 (source: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/green-living-blog/2010/sep/23/carbon-footprint-new-car). It could be argued, albeit with maybe nebulous accounting, that since you drive so little, buying a used normal compact car would be better for the environment than buying a new hybrid, and if you were really interested in being a Friend of the Environment, you'd buy used. You wouldn't offset the emissions from the manufacture of a new hybrid when compared to a used normal car over a 20 year ownership period if you only drove 3000 miles per year. An antagonizing way to summarize this argument is that it is kind of pointing out the hypocrisy in your & your wife's preferences for this car purchase wrt environmentalism. A more charitable way to characterize the argument is that it is pointing out that since you drive so little, from the point of view of CO2 emissions, it doesn't really matter much whether you buy a hybrid or not. silence_kit fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Oct 11, 2018 |
# ¿ Oct 11, 2018 01:19 |