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Ooooo goody My GTP's original block, was a little too low on coolant and a little too aggressive on timing. First track outing.  Friends car. Small bolt accidentally left in intake during assembly. Ran for about 5 seconds.  Torque! I didn't think those cute little tires had it in them. First track outing in the Corolla.  2000 Catera. Bought with jumped timing belt.  Note to self: Scirocco radiator does not have the cooling capacity for a FI engine of twice the displacement.  Valve dropped in the GTP on the highway. Unsure of exact cause but have a couple theories.
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Oct 31, 2009 15:28
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D. melanogaster posted:Just curious but which GXP? G6? Solstice? G8? I'm going to guess Grand Prix, otherwise has to be G8 ... that's an LS oil pan
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May 8, 2010 06:09
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iastudent posted:Alright, gotta get home before dinner in the oven burns... what, officer? What do you mean I CAN'T get into my drivew- Another L67 bites the dust. SUPERCHARGED! Not sure if that vehicle was included on the recalls, not that the recall fixed the fire issues anyhow.
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Jun 23, 2011 00:59
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Mahnarch posted:
It's just been superseded, if you have someone look it up by application at a parts store there is just a new Motorcraft part number for them.
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Jan 8, 2012 15:04
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revmoo posted:Does it bother anyone else that transverse V6's never have symmetrical valve covers? The 3800 does, with the exception of the oil filler cap being on the front (but is still centered).
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Apr 15, 2012 19:09
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kastein posted:quality over quantity, buddy That happened to me on my T/A. Started getting violent shakes while driving, thought the rearview was going to fall off. I put the car in the air and it was laughable how bad the tire was bulging (in the center). Was a month old tire with about 100 miles on it ... buy name brand tires kids!
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Sep 13, 2012 02:35
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The Rocket Salad posted:Where's your Corolla? In my garage mostly ... I have a few things so sort out with the other vehicles and then I have some (light and boring) changes for the Corolla to make it a better driver.
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Sep 13, 2012 04:30
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Those are two of my pictures ... from page 1
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Nov 3, 2012 00:26
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rscott posted:Are those plastic valve covers? How hot do they have to get before they melt like that? Those whiteblock volvo's have an aluminum 'valve cover' (really the cam cover as it has half of the cam bearing on it). What melted is the plastic coil/sight cover. Something like this ...  May favorite part is the dual ports for the oil filler cap so they could put it in whichever location was best depending on the vehicle ... or you could run 2!
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Nov 11, 2012 05:04
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meatpotato posted:Not to point out the obvious, but there probably wouldn't be any oil on the dipstick after throwing a rod through the block, even if there was oil before. That's pretty nasty. I think it ran low/out so the oil light came on, he checked the wrong dipstick and then kept going. With no oil, it threw a rod.
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Nov 12, 2012 05:00
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Dr 14 INCH DICK Md posted:Horrible engineering failure. Who runs a coolant passage through an idler pulley bracket Definitely odd but I'd rather deal with a 30 minute and $5 plastic T than metal coolant pipes any day. Edit: Of course I am biased as I have them on the Corolla but Dorman also just started making metal replacements for the OCD 3.8L owners.
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Dec 9, 2012 02:37
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G-Mach posted:This happened to my friend this spring. Pun intended? 
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Dec 31, 2012 20:33
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Probably the only reason he still has feet is because it was just the pressure plate and not the flywheel itself!
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Jan 11, 2013 06:43
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Cakefool posted:Someone repost that melted Volvo valve cover, gets me every time. On the Volvos it's actually more of a cam cover since the cover houses the top half of the camshaft bearings  and therefore uses no gasket (only anaerobic sealer)They're all aluminum, IIRC it was the coil sight cover that melted on the Volvo. Still an awesome picture nonetheless
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Jan 27, 2013 16:28
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EightBit posted:Something like that happens to all FC RX7's and the replacement parts are quite a bit pricier, if you can even find them The BCM did the same thing in my Trans Am. I figured the ignition switch accessory position was going out since the radio and windows would stop working intermittently but everything else kept going. After scraping the gently caress out of my hands dropping the ignition column for enough room to change the switch I found out the issue with the BCM. It has 5 relays built onto the PCB and one of them is notorious for cold solder joints. Reheated, re-soldered, and has been like new since.
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Jan 31, 2013 04:39
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My Corolla has the gas tank in the trunk, but it has the following safety features: A cardboard sight shield from the trunk side so you don't think about a gas tank in your trunk. Also doubles as an additional crumple zone before tank impact. Rear seats that don't fold down. In case of fire they act as a 'fire wall' which may or may not be highly flammable in and of itself. A measly 10 gallon fuel tank. This is to keep the fireball size to a minimum.
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Feb 6, 2013 01:53
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emptyspace posted:As far as I know, the 4.6 and 5.4 use the same heads. The difference was in the 2V vs 3V motors. 2V would blow plugs out, on the 3V, the plugs would break off in the head and you have to use a special tool to get them out. Pretty sure they're different but probably similar. Sold a head to a shop the other day and when he changed his mind that it was a 5.4 and not a 4.6 it was a different (and more expensive) part number. When Dorman makes a plug repair kit for your engine (even including a new plug!) and multiple tool companies make specialty tools for hosed plugs, you have a design problem.
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Jul 5, 2013 23:42
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Slavvy posted:It's because BMW's have wheel bolts instead of studs so without that retaining bolt, putting a wheel on can be a royal pain if the holes happened to have shifted. Yes, but that still doesn't explain a noise. Unless the bolt failed previously and prevented the rotor and wheel from be seated properly. But once it's together it does nothing ...
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Jul 21, 2013 21:16
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some texas redneck posted:Probably should have posted this here instead of terrible things, so have a crosspost. The aftermarket replacement we sell at work comes with a new harness/pigtail, and has for years. Comes with a different style connector, one that won't hopefully fail in the same spectacular fashion.
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Jun 22, 2014 15:28
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Good thing it wasn't in the garage.
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Preoptopus posted:Enjoy the purchase of a 100 dollar sensor at markup with install. I would take it to a small mom and pop shop and ask to just get it replaced with a regular valve stem. Youll have a TPMS light on but money in da pocket. A lot of new tech in cars is unnecessary or unwanted by most of us here, but I have no problem at all with TPMS
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Sep 7, 2014 17:30
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Found out why the blower only worked on high on the GTI-R-P lovely part is the pins rusted into and broke off on the pigtail so now that needs to be changed as well.
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Sep 20, 2014 23:32
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You mean power steering pump? Coolant boiling from lack of belt is my guess.
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Sep 21, 2014 00:12
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2004 Jetta VR6. Coil caught fire and burnt a hole on the bottom of the (plastic) intake runner. Dealer list: Intake $900 harness $700.  Recommended fix: JB weld and 1 pigtail from the junkyard.
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Oct 15, 2014 00:53
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kastein posted:Ehhh, not all, that missing ceramic is a pretty solid sign unless the tip of the plug is also beat to poo poo. Only those that make it past the lovely timing component issues!
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Jan 31, 2015 16:41
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Slavvy posted:Meeeh, that engine is a piece of cake to work on. You shouldn't have to take the cambelt entirely off, just cable tying it to the cam sprocket and keeping it tense against the bonnet with a bungee cord should be enough. That way you don't have to dick around with the crank sprocket, water pump and all that fuckery down on the block. And P/S line! I did a head job on my sisters 1.7 Civic - was dead simple, just cramped. And I hate that accessory drive. Not made for large hands (and I hate manual tensioners)
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Feb 23, 2015 04:31
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Fifty Three posted:Are they actually power lines or some other utility? It looks like the ones running through the stairs and the low ones on the other side are cable or telecom and the (slightly) higher ones with the orange insulators are for power. How did they get the wires through the handrail?
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Apr 12, 2015 22:37
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Preoptopus posted:All I see is soon to be mechanical failures. What's wrong with those clips? They can be a pain to get back into place sometimes but GM/Ford/probably a bunch of other manufacturers have been using them for 20+ years. I've sold replacements but no more often than I've sold replacement hoses or gaskets - haven't had one leak in my stable yet.
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May 1, 2015 15:00
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Most of the alloy arms on the fancy 'European' vehicles have non-serviceable ball joints anyway - so the entire arm has to be replaced when the ball joint goes bad. Which is probably approximately the same time frame for major rust to build up on a steel arm (if you live up North)
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May 3, 2015 18:03
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NoWake posted:I imagine the owner tore the oil pan off somehow and then decided to drive it to the shop like that. At this point the engine is scrap, may as well let it run until the end. Still pretty retarded, unless the vehicle itself is getting scrapped. It could easily throw another rod, breaking the starter, manifolds, sensors, radiator, bodywork, etc. Worst case could even break the crank and then break the bellhousing or input of the transmission. I've been tempted to kill and old engine like that but there is always a risk for a lot more collateral damage.
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Jul 10, 2015 04:53
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14 INCH DICK posted:Only starter I've seen look like that in the Gremlin, what did that come out of? Most older Ford starters look like that, where they have the external solenoid mounted on the fender or firewall.
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Oct 18, 2015 17:33
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literally a fish posted:Yeah but petrol DI tends to use electric HPFPs. Which ones? All the ones I've worked on firsthand have mechanical (usually cam driven) HPFPs (GM, Kia/Hyundai, VW). They all still have an electric LPFP in the tank though but I haven't even heard of an electric HPFP on a DI vehicle
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Jan 3, 2016 16:32
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I was beside a truck the other day and on the rear rotors you could see the silhouette of the vanes coming through the face of the rotor. He had been going metal on metal for a long time. I laughed to myself, I've seen them online and in the junkyard and at work (parts) but I've never seen one driving around. Then he started to creep forward at the light. The rotor didn't turn with the wheel 
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Mar 8, 2016 02:21
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Not what you want to find in an engine you installed in a car a month ago Have seen a lot of lifter failures, but none like this. At least with the lifter plates on top it is not physically possible for the lifter to rotate in the bore, so the cam was fine ...
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Apr 10, 2016 21:21
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some texas redneck posted:So mom decided to take her car to Goodyear to figure out what it needs. Not that they weren't trying to gouge you, but the control arm bushings wear out and are very very common to do so - and it would be worse if they were continually oil soaked. Most cars you can change the bushings separately, but some you have to buy the whole arm to get the bushings. Other cars you can't change the ball joint separately, you need to buy the whole arm. So a lot of shops will just replace the arm assembly if the ball joint or bushings are gone - less labor cost but more parts cost.
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Apr 24, 2016 15:46
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Horrible design failure? This is all for a brake booster. Intake hose Intake resonator Battery Battery tray 3pcs wiper cowling Wiper arms Wiper motor Wiper linkage Metal cowling Master cylinder Both pipes from ABS to master Vacuum hose brackets Heater hose brackets Evap bracket And blood. One must always make a sacrifice to the automotive gods. And a bastard to bleed on top of that, took almost 2 quarts worth to get all the air out, even with the computer ABS bleed procedure. 2010 Mazda CX-9
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Oct 9, 2016 01:56
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0toShifty posted:Isn't this booster (and the Escape one) covered by some extended warranty? She actually brought it to me right from the dealer so I guess not. They did just perform a recall with updated control arms, which is nice. Was leaking vacuum at light brake pressure, and would get very hard (and hissing). Keep pressing and it would regain full assist and put you through the windshield.
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Oct 9, 2016 03:31
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That reminds me I need to do it in my Genesis, a little over 50k and I'm sure it's easier to get rid of before it gets bad. That being said, I'll take it any day over port fuel injection. They added about 40hp by bumping the compression ratio of the motor and increased fuel economy while doing that. Worth the occasional extra maintenance to me.
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Oct 11, 2016 04:32
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XK posted:http://www.orlandosentinel.com/news/breaking-news/os-latifa-lincoln-dead-hydrogen-sulfide-20161004-story.html drat, first time I've heard of that. Sounds like they put a non-vented battery in its place to save a few bucks or possibly worse some shop/store did it and/or didn't hook up the vent hoses.
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Oct 23, 2016 15:07
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Throatwarbler posted:If the only thing stopping the car from murdering its occupants with H2S is lack of a vent hose on the battery that's pretty terrifying. Most vehicles batteries aren't in the passenger compartment, but yeah, there are usually just 1 or 2 hoses that clip onto the battery so when it out gasses they are vented out of the car. I don't think it's hard to find them (the correct battery) anymore but before they were common I know of people putting a similar sized battery without vent lines into the car.
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Oct 23, 2016 15:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:It sounds like from the repair thread posted above there is an actual vent line from the compartment. Probably the vent line got knocked off or the new battery didn't have the fixins to attach the vent line to it. I did the opposite. I have a Miata battery under the hood of the Z. Now I have vent hoses with nowhere to run them to!
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Oct 23, 2016 23:41
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