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Petite Dinklage posted:although the bass was somewhat muted As is going to be the case with any bookshelf, and generally even floorstanders. I love B&W's sound though. I had a 5 channel system of 602 and 601 S3s and A/B'd them with my (massively higher MSRP) Infinitys and for music I preferred the B&Ws. But since I'm using them for HT the B&Ws went and the Infinitys stayed. Someday I plan on moving back to B&W though, either with a dedicated 2 channel set up or one of their bigger offerings for my HT.
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# ¿ Jan 15, 2016 19:51 |
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# ¿ May 17, 2024 19:52 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:My receiver, Denon AVR-X1100W, decided to break(?) when I was out of town this past week. I get no on screen images from the receiver both inputs as well as the receivers on screen overlay that shows volume etc. I have a PS3, Comcast cable box, Chromecast and none of them will show images on the screen or audio. However I do also have a TV antenna with audio pass-through via the receiver and that audio works. Pretty sure this happened to me with one of my Denons and I ended up returning/replacing it (rather than sending it in for repair) because it was still within that time period. It was definitely an issue with the Denons HDMI hardware.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2017 16:55 |
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Looking to get new HT sub(s), since my PC sub (a 10" Hsu) is popping fuses constantly so I think I'm going to move my current HT sub (which is a sealed Infinity 12" and has always been the weak link in my HT) to the PC room and upgrade the HT. Theater room is 27x16x9 but open to a 21x8 room and also open to a hallway/staircase. Concrete floor. I think the room will take all the sub I can throw at it, so thinking 2x~$1000-1500 subs rather than one $2000-3000. Only other thing is I'd like the option of putting at least one of them in front of the screen without obscuring it, which limits me to about 25 or 26" height, which does rule out some subs. I know the JTR Captivator is too tall, as is the Outlaw Ultra-X13. I need to measure an exact height though because the Ultra-X13 seems like it could be a good option. Rhythmiks 15 will fit. SVS has a couple scratch n dent PB13-Ultras with a good discount. PSA's 15 and 18" should both fit. Don't particularly want another Hsu. Any other ideas or recommendations?
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2017 22:01 |
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I've thought about it in the past. I remember looking at the THT specifically actually. I've got a table saw and everything else I think it'd take to build one. How long does it take assuming reasonable competence to build something like that? A day?
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2017 16:14 |
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I could DIY a regular sealed or ported sub without having to buy a flat pack, but that THT looks like more than I'd really want to tackle.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2017 15:58 |
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I find it somewhat mind boggling that you can now buy $1500+ dollar sound bars from Best Buy.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2017 16:00 |
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qirex posted:They're getting pretty good audio-wise but that's compared to other sound bars. Value-wise they still suck compared to normal setups. Yeah that's basically exactly what I was thinking. But if you gotta have something skinny that mounts on the wall for your spouse to approve I guess a good soundbar is better than a lovely soundbar which is better than the speakers in the TV.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2017 23:20 |
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Scrapez posted:I'm running a refurb Integra 40.2 avr and it's been great. No issues, hdmi or otherwise. But how's the mouth feel? I probably need to start looking into this stuff again. I had a Harmony 9 years ago and I hated it, the buttons and backlighting were both worse than the remote that came with my DVR. But I'm setting up my HT again after moving and if I don't get something set up I don't think my wife will ever use it.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2017 15:58 |
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qirex posted:I super turbo hate the current Harmony remotes, too much crap I don't need and literally can't work with CEC. The third party remote market has basically entirely vanished outside of Logitech and some weird Chinese garbage. Harmony's current hard button remote has 6 buttons for smart home control, a number pad and a bunch of other stuff I absolutely do not need. Plus the fact that I'd have to disable what is apparently the only fully working HDMI-CEC system on earth. Harmony is the opposite of what I want. That's kinda the response I expected tbh.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2017 03:13 |
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So I know this isn't the best dollar per dB you can get, and thanks to the people that tried to direct me towards a better subwoofer life, but I went this route anyway because I'm lazy and poo poo. But I wanted to say I bought these on SVS' Outlet scratch n dent sale, for $600 off each, and I'm amazed at how not really scratched they are. They're absolutely not perfect but tbh I think I could fix them to perfect with a little rubbing compound. Before I received them I was thinking "maybe I can make them better with some 1000 grit and then 2000 and then etc" but the damage isn't even really scratches (i.e. you can't catch a fingernail on them), they're really just marred slightly and you can't even see it from 3'+ away. They got delivered today and I dragged em downstairs and hooked em up and that's as far as I've gotten but they're already shaking the house. Small catte for scale:
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2017 06:29 |
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Need to upgrade the other speakers now... Nah, they good. If I used this for music a lot I'd prefer something like B&Ws new 700 series (I really like B&Ws sound for music) but for HT these things are tough to beat. These are basically Revels, before Harman split off the high end Infinitys into Revel. They only real question, which I've yet to determine, is whether the powered sealed 12" in the towers are going to completely go to waste now that I have much more capable subs. If they were crossed over at 150 or something they'd still get a good workout even if I set them to small and set the crossover on the receiver to 80 or so. But they're crossed over at 80 so anything higher goes to the 6.5". Maybe they'll still get a fair amount of LFE just from the roll off below 80 Hz, but I don't know yet. I kinda doubt it.
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2017 02:12 |
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scrubs season six posted:Nah, they good. If I used this for music a lot I'd prefer something like B&Ws new 700 series (I really like B&Ws sound for music) but for HT these things are tough to beat. These are basically Revels, before Harman split off the high end Infinitys into Revel. After a couple hours of fiddling I think maybe the way to go is to set the L+R towers to large and then set the subs to LFE+Main. The towers will do their thing as well as they can down to ~30 Hz or so but I won't lost any LFE since everything is also going to the subs anyway.
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# ¿ Oct 8, 2017 06:52 |
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Ascend is my go to recommendation for speakers at any price point above $300 and below $3000 or so. I've heard all of them except their towers or ribbon tweetered ones and I think they're all great. I use 4 of their HTM-200s in my computer room but that'd be a little weak for a HT setup.
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# ¿ Oct 11, 2017 18:39 |
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Question is with different drivers doing the same job, are they in phase? You could ironically be using more drivers to get less output if they're not moving together... Your subs could be stomping the gently caress out of the room but if the drivers on the towers aren't moving at the exact same time you could effectively be using them to suck low end out of the room. I figured Audyssey would handle a lot of that and the rest of it would naturally work itself out when I'm farting around with test tones and an audio meter in order to set the EQs on all four subs (and the levels on my center channel which is powered). But we'll see. I didn't find my Audyssey mic until this morning so I haven't been doing any fiddling. I think I did set the mains as small and the crossover to 80 and the subs on the mains were still getting a decent workout, and this would be my preferred arrangement, but I was drunk so I can't remember for sure.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2017 22:13 |
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codo27 posted:Onkyo TX-NR676 y/n? It delivers the power I need. I seen a comment somewhere suggesting it wont do HDR @ 60hz, is that even a thing? It clearly states 4K@60 in the product overview I think you need 2.0a and I can't find any specs that list whether or not the 676 is 2.0a, so, uh, who fuckin knows? I'd probably email Onkyo and ask them. I'd be surprised if it didn't have 2.0a but I don't really keep up with HDMI specs because my PJ is 1080p so anything will work. Other than that, I like Onkyos a lot so go for it.
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2017 16:54 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Economies of scale and slowness of new feature adoption make it not worth it to buy a separate pre-pro. 100% this. I bought an Emotiva XPA-5 a long time ago when they were having a great sale and when I went to upgrade my receiver years later I still just ended up getting a receiver. A lot of pre/pro companies have product cycles of like 5 years vs annual for receivers.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2017 16:31 |
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KozmoNaut posted:They're not bad bad, they're just not very good value for money. I think the cheap ones aren't that bad a value for your money. Like whatever the cheapest ones are that come with a wireless sub. I bought one of the expensive ones to replace the cheap one I had (which came free with a Samsung TV 4 years ago) and it was definitely not a very good value for my money and I am an idiot.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2017 02:22 |
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Full Circle posted:For the sub SVS has their SB-12 on sale for $400. One (or two) would slot nicely into that budget. As a PSA I wanted to say that anyone that likes SVS, their factory outlet or scratch n dent sale or whatever they call it is the best deal ever IF you buy the most damaged ones they have. Like I don't know if I'd be that excited about getting $150 off a SB-1000 but I got $800 off a PB13-Ultra and expected it to be pretty hosed up when it arrived and it was still gorgeous.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2017 02:33 |
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BigFactory posted:I’ve always wanted to pick up a classic pair of Bose speakers. They get such a bad rap that I figure they must at least have a unique sound. Maybe I like it? When I was 16 I worked at a department store that had a much better than average electronics department that sold Bose 901s. 901s require their EQ which either wasn't able to be hooked up properly to our reciever/speaker switching system, or whoever hooked them up was idiot (I actually suspect the former but either can't recall or never asked). Without the EQ they sound like insane trash. I'm pretty sure we never sold a pair the entire time I worked there. But later I heard a pair hooked up properly and they're not bad speakers. A friend's dad had a pair of 301s (series II I think) and they were perfectly decent bookshelf speakers. And they were in an actual bookshelf which their horizontal layout does make them better for. Anyway the point is I'd totally rock vintage bose in a vintage 2 channel setup given the opportunity.
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2017 02:51 |
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RichterIX posted:My dad loves his 901s that he bought in the mid-80s but, yeah, they sound like utter trash without their proprietary EQ, which makes them almost impossible to use with a home theater system because you need a tape loop to use it without making things Extremely loving Complicated. I didn't remember the tape loop thing until you said it but now I totally remember that you're right, it does make things crazy.
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2017 03:22 |
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KozmoNaut posted:Anyone with even a basic knowledge of electronics will tell you that 99% of the claims made by hifi peddlers are utter bullshit and usually physically impossible. Wait, are you telling me that the gallium containing speaker cables I bought for $14,999 don't sound more "weighty" and "liquid", my tin eared friend? http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/teoaudio/liquid.html quote:To the eye, there's nothing to suggest that this skinny black cable is anything other than yet another 'normal' audio wire. Producing sound as soon as they were plugged in validated their proof-of-concept existence with a splash. To get the most telling comparative read, I assembled an ultra-resolution system of 20 x 32-bit DAC digital source into Esoteric's 'activated passive' C-03 preamp into the FirstWatt F5 into my customary Acoustic System Tango R speakers. The only valves in this chain were the JJ ECC99s of the APL Hifi-modified Esoteric UX-1's now transformer-coupled class A output stage. While arguably not the harmonically richest component combo, the linearity and noise-floor behavior of these electronics makes them my best for ultimate magnification purposes. As I did anticipate having to perhaps split hairs, the more resolving power the merrier. Comparative cables were the ASI LiveLine links as the best in my stable. Having been given to understand that the liquid cables benefit from a physical settling-in period similar to the Cerious Technologies designs, I avoided rushed plug'n'play comparisons.
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2017 03:33 |
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I recommend you try actually swapping out a few different amps on one pair of speakers. The difference is really obvious. Amps vary wildly in tone, they are a lot more than power/signal-to-noise/impedance. You really need to do some research man. You've done this in a double blind test, of course?
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2017 03:43 |
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Yeah, post a ton of Sierra porn. If I replace my speakers (who am I kidding I'm definitely gonna) either the towers or the Sierra 2s will definitely be on the short list. I think I also need to look at B&Ws new 700 series. The speakers I had before my current ones were B&Ws biggest 600 series bookshelf and I always loved the sound. I A/Bd them with my current speakers which retailed for like 7x the cost or something and preferred the B&Ws for music but the Infinitys were vastly superior for HT so I kept them.
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2017 19:16 |
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Hob_Gadling posted:Dammit, now I want to take a listen at 702 and 703. Especially the latter seems like it'd be just my thing . I just listened to the 702s and 705s (and some Martin Logan motion 40s and some lovely def techs) and both the 702s and 705s seem very very good. The bass from the 702s was surprising. I didn’t believe that the guy didn’t have a sub on at first. So now that I’ve exhausted all the local options to listen it’s either go with one of them, go internet direct, or wait until next month when I’ll be passing through Sacramento. e: the Martin Logans were very good also though I didn’t listen to them as much. Def techs to me always sound too harsh on the highs and these were no different. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Dec 13, 2017 |
# ¿ Dec 13, 2017 02:28 |
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2017 03:04 |
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Thanks for the heads up about this. The 600 series bookshelves are really awesome, hopefully the used market prices will go down even further (yeah right) and I can have a cheap secondary setup. I sold mine instantly/easily when they were like 9 years old and was fairly pleased with the amount of money I got for them. Money spent on receivers and most other electronics is like pissing money into a well but speakers are usually not bad. Even now looking at a pic of a 601 S3 I think they're a pretty nice/modern looking speaker, which helps. Just looked on eBay and it seems like ~300 for a pair and I think that's a great deal. I'd say they've pretty well leveled off though, that's not that much less than I sold mine for 5 years ago. IIRC I sold the 601s, the smallest bookshelf (604?) and the smaller center for 900 bucks.
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2017 03:26 |
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Hob_Gadling posted:Dammit, now I want to take a listen at 702 and 703. Especially the latter seems like it'd be just my thing . They didn't have the 703 so I can't comment about its sound from personal experience but it definitely seems like it might be the best bang for the buck in the series. Giving up the external tweeter and one woofer saves you a thousand dollars per speaker (vs the 702). bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Dec 14, 2017 |
# ¿ Dec 14, 2017 03:29 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I needed a living room receiver so I can shuffle around some equipment. Hey, the guy added a used 15 dollar remote control.
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2017 02:06 |
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taqueso posted:On my Denon that feature is literally called "Dynamic EQ", it boosts the low end at low volume. I wonder how much difference there is between this and just running your subwoofers 3 or 6 dB hot or whatever. I guess as you approach reference level the dynamic eq would back it off but that might not always be desirable depending on your tastes. Related: If you're going to run subs hot does it matter if you do it via the volume on the subwoofer or the subwoofer volume on the receiver? I'm trying to figure out if there'd be a difference in how the EQ curve would end up in each scenario and I'm not sure.
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# ¿ Dec 22, 2017 04:39 |
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KozmoNaut posted:That would only affect your sub, but a significant part of the bass comes from your main speakers too, unless you're using tiny satellites. I was just thinking about adjusting the subwoofer level in the receiver which would also only affect the sub but you're right the better way to do it would be to use the tone controls to adjust bass up which would impact both the mains and the subs.
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2017 22:06 |
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Thermopyle posted:I'm going back and forth on whether to get an AVR and pair it with the two good/decent Bose bookshelf speakers (I was given them and my Googlin leads me to believe they're ok) I have now and adding speakers over time as the budget allows, or to get a Vizio 5.1 soundbar. I'm considering the Denon AVRS730H at $350 or whatever Vizio 5.1 soundbar system is around that price, but someone could talk me out of that. 2 channel is exactly as good as 3 channel, as long as you're sitting close to directly in front of the TV. You have two ears, not three. I'd guess in typical scenarios 95% people are not going to notice not having a center channel, and out of the 5% that notice, 95% aren't really going to care. Bose gets poo poo on a lot (usually rightfully so) but they do (or at least have) made some decent speakers. They're just generally not very price effective. But the fact that they're free and the fact that they're older are both points in their favor. I'd rock a pair of vintage Bose 301s on a bookshelf in a heartbeat. With regard to soundbars I'd rather have a $100 pair of stereo speakers and a $300 receiver, than a $600 soundbar.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2018 05:44 |
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Thermopyle posted:Hmm, say $400 if I'm getting something amazing, but I'd rather spend half that. None of us in this house are what I'd call audiophiles. I guess you could say I'm very conscious of diminishing returns. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1500-15-150-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-634?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2018 05:53 |
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I think a lot of the "ported subs are boomy" came about from cheap drivers and cheap manufacturers. Like if you're going to make a lovely sub you're going to port it just to get the efficiency bump. That doesn't mean ported subs are inferior in any way. "Tight" vs "boomy" probably has a lot more to do with "expensive" vs "cheap", than sealed vs ported, I guess.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2018 06:36 |
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:They're special little feet that isolate your sub from the floor/room. By minimizing resonation with other stuff, it helps to both tighten the bass response and prevent you from pissing off your neighbors when you crank it up. I liked these so much I ended up buying a new subwoofer that would be compatible with them. What surface do you have them on? Mine just sit on carpet (which is over concrete) so I've assumed there's not much point in bothering with any of that sort of stuff.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2018 03:20 |
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I had a Technics top loading 5 disc changer with the clear plastic top like it was a record player. Was cool because you could change the other CDs while it was playing, before (I think) that became a thing with front loaders.
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2018 21:12 |
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Panty Saluter posted:Are there nominal 8 ohm speakers that don't dip below 8 ohms at some point? How flimsy an amp do you have that can't handle a millisecond burst of 4 ohms? B&Ws new 700 series dip down to like 3 ohms IIRC.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2018 03:54 |
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My dad has a pair of old school Klipsch Cornwalls that IIRC he said were nominally 4 ohm (I think the newer ones are rated as 8 but not sure about the vintage ones?) so maybe they dip to like 2 or something. They didn't play nice with a lowish end Denon so he's been amping them for many years with a little 2 channel class D amp. They'd trip the circuit protection on the Denon multiple times during a movie. Could be the Denon was just hosed up though I guess, not sure how much he checked into that avenue. Pretty sure he actually sent it back to Denon and they said it was fine though. Every time I visit him he tells me that I get the Cornwalls in his will since I'm the only person in the fam that cares about audio reproduction. I just nod and say "yeah that's great" and don't mention that I have no real use for them and if I'm gonna pick something out to have around to remember Dad by it's not gonna be 200 pounds worth of speakers. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Mar 11, 2018 |
# ¿ Mar 11, 2018 04:49 |
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Thermopyle posted:So, what I ended up doing is using the Bose 301 Series III speakers with a 15 year-old Onkyo receiver and it works pretty great for TV/Movies and some music. I was thinking about adding the Polk PSW10 that's on sale at Amazon for $80 bucks today. Anything particularly bad about this plan? 301s are great. A bookshelf speaker that actually fits on a bookshelf and has an 8" woofer? Good poo poo. As has been mentioned, wouldn't hurt to pair a little better sub with it than the PSW10.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2018 06:07 |
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dy. posted:So I have two giant 90s-era floorstanding speakers that I inherited from my grandpa as my speakers for home entertainment. I love them but want to add a center channel at a low cost just to help with vocals in movies and TV mainly. Problem is I don't really have anywhere to put it. If they're bad at dialogue/vocals then they're just bad. Could be they're good speakers that need reconditioning, or they're just bad speakers. The main point of a center channel is to anchor audio to the center if you're sitting off axis. If you're sitting on axis and it still doesn't sound good, a center is just a bandaid for bad main speakers.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2018 06:19 |
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# ¿ May 17, 2024 19:52 |
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This reminded me that I have a VTF-1 with an amp that keeps popping fuses sitting in my utility room in the basement. Could I sell this for $50 on craigslist to someone that wants the driver and cabinet or to fix the amp? $20?
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2019 12:13 |