Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Petite Dinklage posted:

although the bass was somewhat muted

As is going to be the case with any bookshelf, and generally even floorstanders. I love B&W's sound though. I had a 5 channel system of 602 and 601 S3s and A/B'd them with my (massively higher MSRP) Infinitys and for music I preferred the B&Ws. But since I'm using them for HT the B&Ws went and the Infinitys stayed. Someday I plan on moving back to B&W though, either with a dedicated 2 channel set up or one of their bigger offerings for my HT.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

tangy yet delightful posted:

My receiver, Denon AVR-X1100W, decided to break(?) when I was out of town this past week. I get no on screen images from the receiver both inputs as well as the receivers on screen overlay that shows volume etc. I have a PS3, Comcast cable box, Chromecast and none of them will show images on the screen or audio. However I do also have a TV antenna with audio pass-through via the receiver and that audio works.

I cannot rule out my wife or mother hitting some weird combination of buttons on the remote and changing some setting that I cannot figure out. BUT after doing some troubleshooting I think my HDMI OUT and/or IN ports have messed up.

Things I have tried:

1. Hook PS3 directly to TV to confirm it works.
2. Take known good HDMI cable from previous test and use it for the receiver > TV HDMI pass-through connection.
3. Ensure correct zone is on.
4. Make sure all connections are secure.

Are there any troubleshooting tips goons can recommend before I contact Denon about warranty repair/replacement?

Pretty sure this happened to me with one of my Denons and I ended up returning/replacing it (rather than sending it in for repair) because it was still within that time period. It was definitely an issue with the Denons HDMI hardware.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Looking to get new HT sub(s), since my PC sub (a 10" Hsu) is popping fuses constantly so I think I'm going to move my current HT sub (which is a sealed Infinity 12" and has always been the weak link in my HT) to the PC room and upgrade the HT.

Theater room is 27x16x9 but open to a 21x8 room and also open to a hallway/staircase. Concrete floor. I think the room will take all the sub I can throw at it, so thinking 2x~$1000-1500 subs rather than one $2000-3000.

Only other thing is I'd like the option of putting at least one of them in front of the screen without obscuring it, which limits me to about 25 or 26" height, which does rule out some subs. I know the JTR Captivator is too tall, as is the Outlaw Ultra-X13. I need to measure an exact height though because the Ultra-X13 seems like it could be a good option.

Rhythmiks 15 will fit. SVS has a couple scratch n dent PB13-Ultras with a good discount. PSA's 15 and 18" should both fit. Don't particularly want another Hsu.

Any other ideas or recommendations?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I've thought about it in the past. I remember looking at the THT specifically actually. I've got a table saw and everything else I think it'd take to build one.

How long does it take assuming reasonable competence to build something like that? A day?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I could DIY a regular sealed or ported sub without having to buy a flat pack, but that THT looks like more than I'd really want to tackle.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I find it somewhat mind boggling that you can now buy $1500+ dollar sound bars from Best Buy.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

qirex posted:

They're getting pretty good audio-wise but that's compared to other sound bars. Value-wise they still suck compared to normal setups.

If I was going to spend $1000 to start out I'd go like $300 receiver, $300 subwoofer, $400 LR speakers.

Yeah that's basically exactly what I was thinking. But if you gotta have something skinny that mounts on the wall for your spouse to approve I guess a good soundbar is better than a lovely soundbar which is better than the speakers in the TV.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Scrapez posted:

I'm running a refurb Integra 40.2 avr and it's been great. No issues, hdmi or otherwise.

Have you looked at the Harmony Hub with companion? The companion is a simple remote without the touchscreen and frills and had a good layout and hand feel.

Nice thing about the hub is that you can control it with a Google Home or Amazon Echo which is cool.

But how's the mouth feel?

I probably need to start looking into this stuff again. I had a Harmony 9 years ago and I hated it, the buttons and backlighting were both worse than the remote that came with my DVR. But I'm setting up my HT again after moving and if I don't get something set up I don't think my wife will ever use it.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

qirex posted:

I super turbo hate the current Harmony remotes, too much crap I don't need and literally can't work with CEC. The third party remote market has basically entirely vanished outside of Logitech and some weird Chinese garbage. Harmony's current hard button remote has 6 buttons for smart home control, a number pad and a bunch of other stuff I absolutely do not need. Plus the fact that I'd have to disable what is apparently the only fully working HDMI-CEC system on earth. Harmony is the opposite of what I want.

That's kinda the response I expected tbh.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

So I know this isn't the best dollar per dB you can get, and thanks to the people that tried to direct me towards a better subwoofer life, but I went this route anyway because I'm lazy and poo poo.

But I wanted to say I bought these on SVS' Outlet scratch n dent sale, for $600 off each, and I'm amazed at how not really scratched they are. They're absolutely not perfect but tbh I think I could fix them to perfect with a little rubbing compound. Before I received them I was thinking "maybe I can make them better with some 1000 grit and then 2000 and then etc" but the damage isn't even really scratches (i.e. you can't catch a fingernail on them), they're really just marred slightly and you can't even see it from 3'+ away.

They got delivered today and I dragged em downstairs and hooked em up and that's as far as I've gotten but they're already shaking the house.

Small catte for scale:



bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Need to upgrade the other speakers now...

Nah, they good. If I used this for music a lot I'd prefer something like B&Ws new 700 series (I really like B&Ws sound for music) but for HT these things are tough to beat. These are basically Revels, before Harman split off the high end Infinitys into Revel.

They only real question, which I've yet to determine, is whether the powered sealed 12" in the towers are going to completely go to waste now that I have much more capable subs. If they were crossed over at 150 or something they'd still get a good workout even if I set them to small and set the crossover on the receiver to 80 or so. But they're crossed over at 80 so anything higher goes to the 6.5". Maybe they'll still get a fair amount of LFE just from the roll off below 80 Hz, but I don't know yet. I kinda doubt it.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

scrubs season six posted:

Nah, they good. If I used this for music a lot I'd prefer something like B&Ws new 700 series (I really like B&Ws sound for music) but for HT these things are tough to beat. These are basically Revels, before Harman split off the high end Infinitys into Revel.

They only real question, which I've yet to determine, is whether the powered sealed 12" in the towers are going to completely go to waste now that I have much more capable subs. If they were crossed over at 150 or something they'd still get a good workout even if I set them to small and set the crossover on the receiver to 80 or so. But they're crossed over at 80 so anything higher goes to the 6.5". Maybe they'll still get a fair amount of LFE just from the roll off below 80 Hz, but I don't know yet. I kinda doubt it.

After a couple hours of fiddling I think maybe the way to go is to set the L+R towers to large and then set the subs to LFE+Main. The towers will do their thing as well as they can down to ~30 Hz or so but I won't lost any LFE since everything is also going to the subs anyway.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Ascend is my go to recommendation for speakers at any price point above $300 and below $3000 or so. I've heard all of them except their towers or ribbon tweetered ones and I think they're all great.

I use 4 of their HTM-200s in my computer room but that'd be a little weak for a HT setup.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Question is with different drivers doing the same job, are they in phase? You could ironically be using more drivers to get less output if they're not moving together... Your subs could be stomping the gently caress out of the room but if the drivers on the towers aren't moving at the exact same time you could effectively be using them to suck low end out of the room.

I find it's far more effort than it's worth to accurately sort phase issues on setups like that when I can just set the crossover so the subs to do everything from 80hz down and only have to worry about room placement for them.

I figured Audyssey would handle a lot of that and the rest of it would naturally work itself out when I'm farting around with test tones and an audio meter in order to set the EQs on all four subs (and the levels on my center channel which is powered).

But we'll see. I didn't find my Audyssey mic until this morning so I haven't been doing any fiddling.

I think I did set the mains as small and the crossover to 80 and the subs on the mains were still getting a decent workout, and this would be my preferred arrangement, but I was drunk so I can't remember for sure.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

codo27 posted:

Onkyo TX-NR676 y/n? It delivers the power I need. I seen a comment somewhere suggesting it wont do HDR @ 60hz, is that even a thing? It clearly states 4K@60 in the product overview

I think you need 2.0a and I can't find any specs that list whether or not the 676 is 2.0a, so, uh, who fuckin knows?

I'd probably email Onkyo and ask them. I'd be surprised if it didn't have 2.0a but I don't really keep up with HDMI specs because my PJ is 1080p so anything will work.

Other than that, I like Onkyos a lot so go for it.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

KozmoNaut posted:

Economies of scale and slowness of new feature adoption make it not worth it to buy a separate pre-pro.

100% this. I bought an Emotiva XPA-5 a long time ago when they were having a great sale and when I went to upgrade my receiver years later I still just ended up getting a receiver.

A lot of pre/pro companies have product cycles of like 5 years vs annual for receivers.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

KozmoNaut posted:

They're not bad bad, they're just not very good value for money.

I think the cheap ones aren't that bad a value for your money. Like whatever the cheapest ones are that come with a wireless sub. I bought one of the expensive ones to replace the cheap one I had (which came free with a Samsung TV 4 years ago) and it was definitely not a very good value for my money and I am an idiot.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Full Circle posted:

For the sub SVS has their SB-12 on sale for $400. One (or two) would slot nicely into that budget.
https://www.svsound.com/pages/subwoofers#nsd-series

As a PSA I wanted to say that anyone that likes SVS, their factory outlet or scratch n dent sale or whatever they call it is the best deal ever IF you buy the most damaged ones they have. Like I don't know if I'd be that excited about getting $150 off a SB-1000 but I got $800 off a PB13-Ultra and expected it to be pretty hosed up when it arrived and it was still gorgeous.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

BigFactory posted:

I’ve always wanted to pick up a classic pair of Bose speakers. They get such a bad rap that I figure they must at least have a unique sound. Maybe I like it?

When I was 16 I worked at a department store that had a much better than average electronics department that sold Bose 901s. 901s require their EQ which either wasn't able to be hooked up properly to our reciever/speaker switching system, or whoever hooked them up was idiot (I actually suspect the former but either can't recall or never asked). Without the EQ they sound like insane trash. I'm pretty sure we never sold a pair the entire time I worked there.

But later I heard a pair hooked up properly and they're not bad speakers.

A friend's dad had a pair of 301s (series II I think) and they were perfectly decent bookshelf speakers. And they were in an actual bookshelf which their horizontal layout does make them better for.

Anyway the point is I'd totally rock vintage bose in a vintage 2 channel setup given the opportunity.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

RichterIX posted:

My dad loves his 901s that he bought in the mid-80s but, yeah, they sound like utter trash without their proprietary EQ, which makes them almost impossible to use with a home theater system because you need a tape loop to use it without making things Extremely loving Complicated.

I didn't remember the tape loop thing until you said it but now I totally remember that you're right, it does make things crazy.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

KozmoNaut posted:

Anyone with even a basic knowledge of electronics will tell you that 99% of the claims made by hifi peddlers are utter bullshit and usually physically impossible.

Wait, are you telling me that the gallium containing speaker cables I bought for $14,999 don't sound more "weighty" and "liquid", my tin eared friend?

http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/teoaudio/liquid.html

quote:

To the eye, there's nothing to suggest that this skinny black cable is anything other than yet another 'normal' audio wire. Producing sound as soon as they were plugged in validated their proof-of-concept existence with a splash. To get the most telling comparative read, I assembled an ultra-resolution system of 20 x 32-bit DAC digital source into Esoteric's 'activated passive' C-03 preamp into the FirstWatt F5 into my customary Acoustic System Tango R speakers. The only valves in this chain were the JJ ECC99s of the APL Hifi-modified Esoteric UX-1's now transformer-coupled class A output stage. While arguably not the harmonically richest component combo, the linearity and noise-floor behavior of these electronics makes them my best for ultimate magnification purposes. As I did anticipate having to perhaps split hairs, the more resolving power the merrier. Comparative cables were the ASI LiveLine links as the best in my stable. Having been given to understand that the liquid cables benefit from a physical settling-in period similar to the Cerious Technologies designs, I avoided rushed plug'n'play comparisons.
As it turned out, no hairsplitting was required. Swapping complete cable looms, listener focus shifted from the leaner, lither, energetically more lit up tight timing cues and on-string metal action of the LiveLine to a more velvety, texturally richer, temporally somewhat more stately and laterally larger presentation which emphasized perception of the sustain portion of tones rather than the immediate transient rise.

If the key word for the LiveLine sound is energy, for the Liquid Cable it's mass. This cable sounds tremendously weighty. This isn't an isolated function of added bass. The tonal balance between either wire set is very similar in fact. The LiveLine's acoustic center might be a mite higher (or the Liquid Cable's lower, impossible as these matters are to determine conclusively). But that is not the overriding determinant of the differences. The major difference is how one cable sounds fast and focused, the other voluptuous without turning slow. It's far more a shift in gestalt -- what the listener hones in on -- than frequency response graphs. The liquid effect reminds me very much of the textural change a premium tube preamp can make. Without things getting loose per se as though abdicating control, the feel of them relaxes. They get more elastic, more buoyant, more willowy. And creamier. Definitely creamier.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

I recommend you try actually swapping out a few different amps on one pair of speakers. The difference is really obvious. Amps vary wildly in tone, they are a lot more than power/signal-to-noise/impedance. You really need to do some research man.

You've done this in a double blind test, of course?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Yeah, post a ton of Sierra porn. If I replace my speakers (who am I kidding I'm definitely gonna) either the towers or the Sierra 2s will definitely be on the short list.

I think I also need to look at B&Ws new 700 series. The speakers I had before my current ones were B&Ws biggest 600 series bookshelf and I always loved the sound. I A/Bd them with my current speakers which retailed for like 7x the cost or something and preferred the B&Ws for music but the Infinitys were vastly superior for HT so I kept them.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Hob_Gadling posted:

Dammit, now I want to take a listen at 702 and 703. Especially the latter seems like it'd be just my thing .

I just listened to the 702s and 705s (and some Martin Logan motion 40s and some lovely def techs) and both the 702s and 705s seem very very good. The bass from the 702s was surprising. I didn’t believe that the guy didn’t have a sub on at first.

So now that I’ve exhausted all the local options to listen it’s either go with one of them, go internet direct, or wait until next month when I’ll be passing through Sacramento.

e: the Martin Logans were very good also though I didn’t listen to them as much. Def techs to me always sound too harsh on the highs and these were no different.

bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Dec 13, 2017

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

Thanks for the heads up about this. The 600 series bookshelves are really awesome, hopefully the used market prices will go down even further (yeah right) and I can have a cheap secondary setup.

I sold mine instantly/easily when they were like 9 years old and was fairly pleased with the amount of money I got for them.

Money spent on receivers and most other electronics is like pissing money into a well but speakers are usually not bad. Even now looking at a pic of a 601 S3 I think they're a pretty nice/modern looking speaker, which helps.

Just looked on eBay and it seems like ~300 for a pair and I think that's a great deal. I'd say they've pretty well leveled off though, that's not that much less than I sold mine for 5 years ago. IIRC I sold the 601s, the smallest bookshelf (604?) and the smaller center for 900 bucks.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Hob_Gadling posted:

Dammit, now I want to take a listen at 702 and 703. Especially the latter seems like it'd be just my thing .

They didn't have the 703 so I can't comment about its sound from personal experience but it definitely seems like it might be the best bang for the buck in the series. Giving up the external tweeter and one woofer saves you a thousand dollars per speaker (vs the 702).

bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Dec 14, 2017

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

I needed a living room receiver so I can shuffle around some equipment.
Found an NR1504, no box, no remote, no audacity mic, on CL for $70. Not a bad deal, no 4k but still okay.
The guy said he sold it before I could get there. That's fine, for another $100 I can get a much newer Denon with more WPC, brand new in box.
Today I saw the exact same receiver on CL for $200 for sale from some other dude. I know it's the exact same one because they both posted the serial numbers.


https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ele/d/marantz-av-sorround-nr-1504/6424326991.html


https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ele/d/audiophile-marantz-nr1504-3d/6426276519.html

Quite humorous. I'm tempted to call him and offer $65 without the remote since he peeled the sticker off.

Hey, the guy added a used 15 dollar remote control.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

taqueso posted:

On my Denon that feature is literally called "Dynamic EQ", it boosts the low end at low volume.

I wonder how much difference there is between this and just running your subwoofers 3 or 6 dB hot or whatever. I guess as you approach reference level the dynamic eq would back it off but that might not always be desirable depending on your tastes.

Related: If you're going to run subs hot does it matter if you do it via the volume on the subwoofer or the subwoofer volume on the receiver? I'm trying to figure out if there'd be a difference in how the EQ curve would end up in each scenario and I'm not sure.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

KozmoNaut posted:

That would only affect your sub, but a significant part of the bass comes from your main speakers too, unless you're using tiny satellites.

I was just thinking about adjusting the subwoofer level in the receiver which would also only affect the sub but you're right the better way to do it would be to use the tone controls to adjust bass up which would impact both the mains and the subs.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Thermopyle posted:

I'm going back and forth on whether to get an AVR and pair it with the two good/decent Bose bookshelf speakers (I was given them and my Googlin leads me to believe they're ok) I have now and adding speakers over time as the budget allows, or to get a Vizio 5.1 soundbar. I'm considering the Denon AVRS730H at $350 or whatever Vizio 5.1 soundbar system is around that price, but someone could talk me out of that.

I've got a 2015-ish Vizio 5.1system on one of our TVs and it's ok to us.

The real question is whether or not me or the other regular TV/movie/music listeners in my household are going to regret having to watch stuff with only 2 channels and no center channel.

Is it going to suck? I mean, I realize lots of TVs just have 2 channel speakers built in, but the separation is going to be even more so it makes me wonder how its going to work out.

2 channel is exactly as good as 3 channel, as long as you're sitting close to directly in front of the TV. You have two ears, not three.

I'd guess in typical scenarios 95% people are not going to notice not having a center channel, and out of the 5% that notice, 95% aren't really going to care.

Bose gets poo poo on a lot (usually rightfully so) but they do (or at least have) made some decent speakers. They're just generally not very price effective. But the fact that they're free and the fact that they're older are both points in their favor. I'd rock a pair of vintage Bose 301s on a bookshelf in a heartbeat.

With regard to soundbars I'd rather have a $100 pair of stereo speakers and a $300 receiver, than a $600 soundbar.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Thermopyle posted:

Hmm, say $400 if I'm getting something amazing, but I'd rather spend half that. None of us in this house are what I'd call audiophiles. I guess you could say I'm very conscious of diminishing returns.

I can sit the thing right next to the entertainment center if it doesn't look like rear end which means that I can't imagine a subwoofer that wouldn't fit.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1500-15-150-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-634?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I think a lot of the "ported subs are boomy" came about from cheap drivers and cheap manufacturers. Like if you're going to make a lovely sub you're going to port it just to get the efficiency bump. That doesn't mean ported subs are inferior in any way.

"Tight" vs "boomy" probably has a lot more to do with "expensive" vs "cheap", than sealed vs ported, I guess.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:

They're special little feet that isolate your sub from the floor/room. By minimizing resonation with other stuff, it helps to both tighten the bass response and prevent you from pissing off your neighbors when you crank it up. I liked these so much I ended up buying a new subwoofer that would be compatible with them.

What surface do you have them on? Mine just sit on carpet (which is over concrete) so I've assumed there's not much point in bothering with any of that sort of stuff.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I had a Technics top loading 5 disc changer with the clear plastic top like it was a record player. Was cool because you could change the other CDs while it was playing, before (I think) that became a thing with front loaders.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Panty Saluter posted:

Are there nominal 8 ohm speakers that don't dip below 8 ohms at some point? How flimsy an amp do you have that can't handle a millisecond burst of 4 ohms?

B&Ws new 700 series dip down to like 3 ohms IIRC.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

My dad has a pair of old school Klipsch Cornwalls that IIRC he said were nominally 4 ohm (I think the newer ones are rated as 8 but not sure about the vintage ones?) so maybe they dip to like 2 or something.

They didn't play nice with a lowish end Denon so he's been amping them for many years with a little 2 channel class D amp. They'd trip the circuit protection on the Denon multiple times during a movie. Could be the Denon was just hosed up though I guess, not sure how much he checked into that avenue. Pretty sure he actually sent it back to Denon and they said it was fine though.

Every time I visit him he tells me that I get the Cornwalls in his will since I'm the only person in the fam that cares about audio reproduction. I just nod and say "yeah that's great" and don't mention that I have no real use for them and if I'm gonna pick something out to have around to remember Dad by it's not gonna be 200 pounds worth of speakers.

bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Mar 11, 2018

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Thermopyle posted:

So, what I ended up doing is using the Bose 301 Series III speakers with a 15 year-old Onkyo receiver and it works pretty great for TV/Movies and some music. I was thinking about adding the Polk PSW10 that's on sale at Amazon for $80 bucks today. Anything particularly bad about this plan?

301s are great. A bookshelf speaker that actually fits on a bookshelf and has an 8" woofer? Good poo poo.

As has been mentioned, wouldn't hurt to pair a little better sub with it than the PSW10.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

dy. posted:

So I have two giant 90s-era floorstanding speakers that I inherited from my grandpa as my speakers for home entertainment. I love them but want to add a center channel at a low cost just to help with vocals in movies and TV mainly. Problem is I don't really have anywhere to put it.

Is there a go-to solution for a very low, slim center channel speaker that doesn't cost a bunch?

If they're bad at dialogue/vocals then they're just bad. Could be they're good speakers that need reconditioning, or they're just bad speakers. The main point of a center channel is to anchor audio to the center if you're sitting off axis. If you're sitting on axis and it still doesn't sound good, a center is just a bandaid for bad main speakers.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

This reminded me that I have a VTF-1 with an amp that keeps popping fuses sitting in my utility room in the basement. Could I sell this for $50 on craigslist to someone that wants the driver and cabinet or to fix the amp? $20?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply