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Mr. Samuel Shitley posted:Anyone used actual metal for something like a N7 Armor or anything like that? I was thinking about using a layer-cake type approach to building a Shepard or Zaeed armor with foam on the inside, sheet metal for rigidity/shape, and carbon fiber+paint for the external surface. Generally speaking, I don't think that it's worth using actual metal for armor. A costume doesn't take the sort of abuse that you need metal to withstand, and there are almost always going to be lighter, resilient materials that will work as well or better (like fiberglass, plastic, or foam). Metal can be tough to wear for hours at a stretch, and I've also found it tough to keep a finish on - I mean that articulated areas where the metal meets will wear through their paint/finish pretty fast, compared to plastic or resin that doesn't wear nearly so quickly and can be stained. I've constructed articulated metal armor in the past (which, granted, was from 16 & 18gauge steel, and you could definitely go much lighter for a costume). I also built a rocket pack using metal that would have been much more tolerable to haul around in plastic or fiberglass.
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May 21, 2012 02:12
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If you want to try and do it with metal, and you have some experience working with it, go ahead! I started out making armor for stuff like SCA, and so when I started cosplay stuff I applied those same skills. I ended up finding it very frustrating, because I had learned a lot about how to make tough, functional armor - which isn't what cosplay needs at all. You want something light, mobile, and that looks good. Now you can certainly get a beautiful finish with metal, but it means tons of time spent shaping and planishing once you have formed the shapes. Realistically, you can get as durable a piece out of plastics and fiberglass. Unless you are planning to actually be taking hits in the armor or doing combat rolls on asphalt or something, most costume material will hold up fine. Particularly if you do something like vacuum-form ABS. The 501st put their costumes through more use and wear than most people and it holds up great. There's nothing particularly wrong with metal, it just takes more experience and materials to work with than other options. If you already have that ready (or you think that you are going to keep doing metalwork enough that it justifies) then it might be worth doing.
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May 21, 2012 14:19
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That former looks like it works nicely. If that is a test pull then once you get some time with it you are going to be doing amazing stuff. So, here is a project question. A few years ago, I had a crappy Rocketeer costume. I have a long-term goal of putting together a much better one. I have good ideas on how to do most of it, it'll just take time (so much time). The one real issue I have is the helmet. Now, I have a Rocketeer helmet. It's a casting from one of the movie helmets, so it looks great. But, Billy Campbell (who played the Rocketeer) is a big dude. He's 6'4". I am 5'11". So this helmet is big on me. And every other reproduction/kit you can find or buy is going to be the same. So. I have this helmet to use for measurments, reference, etc. But how to I make a version scaled down like 5%? I feel like there has to be something easier than 'Sculpt one from clay while staring at your reference', but I can't work out what.
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Jun 18, 2012 17:04
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McPantserton posted:We're going to try out some varying grades of plastic this week/weekend, hopefully. I think the 1mm stuff I bought is going to be too thin for pieces that bolt to other pieces, but it'll be awesome for the super-detailed pieces. When I was trying it I felt that the 0.080" styrene (which is, uh, ~2mm?) was a pretty good thickness for working with. Once it's formed it seems pretty rigid and robust. My problem was that I felt like I spent more time trying to make sutiable forms than it would have taken to just make a piece to use. I had a lot of frustrations where I would try to form something and the suction would actually collapse my form.  That combined with my home-hacked setup just made it all too frustrating. You're already doing much better than I did. quote:As for resizing the Rocketeer helmet, I think you will be looking at totally remaking it, unfortunately. The dude over at http://blindsquirrelprops.blogspot.com/ had the same issue with a Sauron helmet and he rebuilt it from the ground up. I took a look at that build, and its' pretty amazing. The problem is that I am such a lackluster sculpter that I don't think I can do it. It's just so frustrating to have this perfect reference and not be able to do anything useful with it. So far the only thing I can think of is to use the one I have to get measurements, etc, for a pepakura design, and then print that at a reduced size. Argh.
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Jun 18, 2012 18:56
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It's big enough that it looks a little silly. I have worn it with a padded cap before, and no one has ever remarked on it, but if I wanted to take the costume from 'neat' to 'awesome' it would need to be dealt with. Maybe I can make a mold of the element, and then cast a copy using something that shrinks in the cold. Then take that outside in the winter and make a mold of it?  I should probably just start working on the costume pieces that I know how to handle.
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Jun 19, 2012 14:49
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Could you use something to reinforce and set its shape? Like, I dunno, coat the backside/interior with fiberglass resin or something similar? That way you could get the benefit of the workability and then fix the shape when you were done.
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Sep 9, 2012 17:47
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Does anyone know a good way to do smoke effects? I'm feeling challenged because of the requirements it would need to meet. One of my long, long term projects to putting together a Rocketeer costume. I had a lovely one for DragonCon one year, and I am now very slowly working on a quality one. My most recent kick on this has been tinkering around with ways to do the backpack (short of spending a grand on the resin kit). Now, I would absolutely love it if I could have some sort of fire/smoke effect for the rocket pack, but I can't work out a good way to do this. The issue is basically that it needs to be something that can physically fit into the pack and be carried around safely, and ideally be triggered by a switch. The other stumbling block I have found is that it needs to be directed down, out of the jets, and not up (which is more common for stage/prop effects). Anyone have experience with this sort of thing? Ideas?
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Oct 1, 2012 14:54
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I had used dry ice on my old version, and was not really impressed by the results. It seemed hard to get a good flow going, and it had the real downside that you can't really control when/how much you smoke - you just have to load up and see how long it lasts. Of course, I think that I had particularly bad results because it was at DragonCon with a steel pack, so the pack was probably 95 degrees and all the ice was gone in half an hour. Maybe there is a better way to package/vent it to get better results. Edit: I have seen battery-powered smoke machines, but they are usually carzy expensive. The model train ones are interesting, though. I'd be concerned they would be too small to make a noticeable effect. The other thing I had considered was using strips of thin grey material hanging down the pack, with a fan inside and some red/orage LEDs - kind of like the old silk-and-light stage fire effect. Not sure it would work upsidedown though. Ashcans fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Oct 1, 2012 |
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Oct 1, 2012 17:12
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That's an interesting option. Looking into it, though, it seems like those operate by heating up a coil of wire that basically burns off oil that is wither dripped onto them, or pulled up by a wick. They seem to be pretty effective, but the idea of walking around with a backpack full of hot oil and red-hot wire is a little disturbing. I mean if it went wrong and exploded I would be cosplay-famous forever, but its not how I want to go. However, this did lead me to looking at ultrasonic foggers, which do not involve red-hot wire or oil. Not sure if they would generate the right sort of fogging, though. Definitely options to look at here!
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Oct 1, 2012 22:40
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McPantserton posted:We tried ultrasonic foggers for Nightmare, the issues are that they have to be in water, plus they use outlets. We couldn't find a battery-powered one. Oh well. I saw a couple that were listed as being 24V inputs, and was hoping that meant they were battery-able. I guess I could be an ElectroPunk Rocketeer and just be sure to stay near an outlet? dupersaurus posted:Could you make something with aerosol cans, like the cold spray they use on sports injuries? You'd probably have to be careful that you don't use it too much so it doesn't get too cold, but they do seem to create a fair amount of mist, and since it's pressurized you can aim it as you need. Well, the issue is that it would be something sitting in my backpack. So I am not sure how I would trigger an aerosol. I guess that there is probably some way to build a mechanical trigger I could use - maybe lodge a can somewhere in the pack and have some sort of lever (or even an actuator?) depress it? Cinnamon Bastard posted:This is something people have been searching for 10 years or more for their Ghost Traps, and so far no one's found a safe solution. Any sufficiently theatrical effect is either toxic or a fire hazard, and everything else is unreliable or almost unnoticeable. drat. Well, at least I can know that my problem is in shared company. I guess I will keep working on it though; there isn't any sort of deadline for this, so I can just work on other pieces of the getup while I try to find a solution.
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Oct 2, 2012 15:04
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drat, that looks awesome. I bet if you set that up with some red/orange LEDs shining onto the fog it would look totally boss. Please let me know if you can find any more info on it, I'd love to know! Also post your Rocketeer costume as you get it done. I hate competition but I could also use the inspiration!
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Oct 18, 2012 21:54
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Thats a nice helmet! I got mine off ebay years ago, but it looks very similar (although the construction is different, I think...) I am curious if all the helmet designs out there are from the same originals - when you get it back I would love to bug you for the measurements. I have an issue where I am not a big dude, so the helmet I have is kind of oversized. I am planning on making the jacket (I actually have a canvas mockup in pieces that I should really get to work on...) but I don't blame you for buying one. I've been sewing for costumes for years and it's still going to be a real challenge. I built a pack for the costume a few years ago, but made the mistake of doing it entirely out of sheet metal. So it ended up a little rough and was stupidly heavy to boot. I trashed it during a move, but kept the pack/harness I had made. My plan is to build a new pack out of lighter materials to make it manageable for an all-day haul. I'll try to get some pictures up here at some point. I should at least post my harness and helmet!
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Oct 19, 2012 01:42
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I don't know bout cat crap, but as a diver the only anti-fogging materials I ever used were spit and toothpaste.
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Oct 30, 2012 22:13
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You could conceivably do something like that with a friend and some floral wire (I think that is what it is - it's a relatively light wire you can get a Michaels/AC Moore/etc that is thick but very easy to bend an shape). Basically sit there while they construct a cage around your head to get the shape right. I have actually done something similar for a failed Iron Man project. In that case, I bought some of the plaster bandage stuff (it's basically just gauze covered in plaster of paris) and my wife wrapped my head in it. We did it in two stages, front then back (removing the front fist) and then stuck the two pieces together. You could just do that, really, if all you need is a rough mockup and general shapeness. In my case I stuck the two halves together and then filled it with plaster to get a plaster copy of my head. It was pretty decent for the investment. Disclaimer: If you do that, wear a swim cap to cover your hair and slather all exposed hair with a ton of vaseline. Not joking, I know someone who plastered their eyelashes together and ended up in the ER to get their eyes reopened. Go carefully with the the plaster and don't use too many layers. Paster heats up as it sets and if you slather it on it can get uncomfortable!
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Jan 4, 2013 22:26
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You guys are totally nuts, I have no idea how you can plan to do so much. We'll be lucky if we can put together something neat for the Renfaire this fall. It's not exactly cosplay, but its the best opportunity we have to do costuming stuff with a little kid. We can't really take him to a lot of the regular convention stuff because it's not baby-friendly and he'd just get bored/overwhelmed. At least the faire is chill and no one will care if we decide to do something a little fantastical/loopy. I would love to make some progress on my Rocketeer, but I just never seem to have any time for anything anymore. I'm hoping to finish the mockup of the jacket with the pattern alterations needs to make it look right, and that's about it. Forget getting the actual jacket done. This post bums me out, so have a picture of our family from the past fair: 
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Feb 10, 2013 19:12
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Hey, I know the PYF Cosplay thread isn't very popular here (and I agree with the criticism) but I wanted to mention that someone just made a really cool post over there about them and their coworkers doing a big Disney cosplay thing for some kids - a lot of it is commercial costumes modified and so on rather than making everything from scratch, but the group results are impressive and it's a great example of the sort of cool thing people can do with this hobby. So maybe check it out!
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Feb 24, 2013 15:46
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I would love to do some Discworld cosplay, but I have this terrible feeling that the only character I could pull off would be Nobby. Maybe Rincewind, but I would have to intentionally grow a terrible beard which is a lot of work.
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Mar 4, 2013 15:52
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PezMaster posted:I don't think Rincewind had much of a beard compared to the other wizards, did he? No, I mean, that's sort of the problem. Rather than growing an awesome huge wizard beard, I would have to intentionally grow the sort of weak, scraggly beard imitation that he is supposed to have. Left alone my beard gets to Aragorn in few days and only heads into Dwarf-town from there, so I would have to put a lot of work into keeping it crappy. I don't think there are any skinny Dwarves, or that would be a real option.
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Mar 4, 2013 16:58
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The thing you actually put the sword in is, as mentioned above, called a scabbard. The thing you use to attach the sword to yourself is often called a baldric (when it goes from shoulder to waist) or frog (when it attaches to a regular belt). You can pretty much make one yourself by buying a bunch of cheap belts from a thrift store and putting them together.
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Apr 8, 2013 20:12
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How big are those rings (as in, how thick is the wire, not the diameter of the loop)? If possible, I would recommend not cutting a hole, but using something pokey like an awl to push through the fabric and then progressively widen it to fit. You can still reinforce this like you would a buttonhole, but by pushing the threads rather than cutting them, you reduce the risks of fraying and increase the overall strength of the area. One of the reasons I would suggest grommets is that you can often install them without punching holes in the fabric, but by pushing them into the weave.
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Apr 9, 2013 19:13
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For a new person, I would definitely recommend finding a project that is manageable for skill and materials. It's easy to be like 'gently caress yea I want to be Iron man!' but that can be a seriously tough project and you can burn out working on it or just get frustrated and walk away. It's easier to start with, say, a costume of Tony Stark with the arc reactor and the one skeletal Iron Man hand+ repulsor; it's a simpler goal and will let you work on the skills you need for the larger projects. You should also think about the skills that you have and try to work out what works best for you. Like I had been sewing for years before I did any cosplay, so fabric stuff is much easier for me to on than, say, making stuff out of craft foam and bondo. If you do metalwork, you might find armor easier to work on. If you can tap into existing skills, it makes it much easier. You can always learn new stuff on the job, but it helps if you're not totally lost. Even if you want to jump straight to a crazy big costume, I would recommend picking an element of it to work on and focusing on that first. It helps you perfect techniques, and avoids a situation where you get halfway through a costume and realize you have hosed up something in the underlying construction and you need to start over.
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Apr 15, 2013 14:40
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a cock shaped fruit posted:This is looking better and better. The price, not so much - but where there is a will there is a way. It's basically exactly what I was trying to imagine as far as 'Something I can place my hand INSIDE and operate'. It seems like you could do this prettily easily with a small battery pack and a little electric motor - is there a reason you don't want to mess with that? If you don't want to do any wiring you could probably just hook something up to a little dremel or even an electric toothbrush. Or an electric egg beater. Failing that, the mechanical gearing required is not really too complicated (I can imagine a couple options just off the cuff) but it would require the time to put together and either buying or making the parts anyway.
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May 15, 2013 16:34
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a cock shaped fruit posted:It's more that they are too light (they are brown, just BRAND NEW brown) - Was thinking of maybe drizzling some heavily diluted paint on them to discolor and make them look a little grody. Just as a heads-up, distressing leather tends to lighten it. You're essentially pulling off the finish, and the more you do that the more you expose the natural leather underneath, which is less stained and therefore lighter in tone. If you want to darken the leather, you can do so by liberally applying an oil or grease to it. I would recommend using mineral oil; it will soak into the leather well without marking up everything you touch (like actual grease or engine oils will). You can also use kitchen oils, but keep in mind that stuff like corn oil or olive oil will eventually go rancid and leave you with stinky gloves.
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Jun 11, 2013 14:51
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You could do either version of Star Wars (classic or prequels). Although if you want to avoid heavy lifting on the costuming front (ie, no Chewie, droids, or storm troopers) you might have to dip into fringe characters to get everyone in. I suppose you could also do something like Firefly, which has five male characters and a good selection of female characters in the main cast - although I think that would rely on having some good matches with bodytypes/looks to make it click. Without some sort of underlying resemblance, it's pretty easy for a Firefly group to just look like a bunch of cowboys.
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Jun 19, 2013 15:59
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PezMaster posted:Thanks guys - as for the bondo, I'm doing all the sanding outside on my balcony with this sort of mask: Honestly, you should kick it up a notch from that. That is the sort of mask I would wear if I was working wood because I hate the taste of sawdust, not to avoid something that is probably actually toxic. Over in the miniature thread, most people use something like this even if they are just airbrushing with non-toxic paints. I am pretty sure bondo dust is as bad or worse than acrylic paint. That mask I linked is only $25, with replaceable filters. There is really no reason not to be careful.
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Jun 20, 2013 14:12
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Many cons don't allow metal props/weapons for safety reasons.
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Jun 21, 2013 14:32
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Won't sharpie be stuck to you for ages, as well? Or at least for several days of scrubbing. Most people can't exactly go to work with their Kratos makeup in full effect.
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Jul 29, 2013 18:57
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my cat is norris posted:Anyone going to DragonCon? Dragon*Con is the thing I miss most about leaving Atlanta. It was awesome to be able to go without having to shell out for a hotel, and being able to take the train and crash at your own house is amazing. Maybe someday I'll make it back there.
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Jul 1, 2014 17:19
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eonblue174 posted:Has anyone tried doing 3d printing for a costume piece? Is it difficult to get a good finish? I'm going to make a gun from mass effect and I'm thinking about using a Maker Bot. I haven't done it, but I looked into it as an idea. For most of your home printers, the size of things you can make is pretty limited. This means that for any decent size prop, you end up having to print it in chunks and then assemble it. The resolution is also iffy, especially if you want something smooth or intricate. If you just want to block out the shapes and detail it otherwise I think its fine. If you go with a professional printing shop like Shapeways you can get bigger things made and a better resolution, but the price can get steep.
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Jul 14, 2014 21:37
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Trying to pinstripe pants with a marker sounds like a good way to drive yourself to suicide. That pattern is rare enough that I would be tempted to just make them - you will probably have more luck finding an acceptable fabric.
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Jul 18, 2014 14:54
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Bean posted:Hey, since we're talking about it, I was thinking about making a costume with an (obviously fake foam) spear for next year's DragonCon. What will they do about that? Can I have that? I emailed security to ask and they acted like they had no idea what I was even talking about. It has been a few years since I was at Dragon*Con, but they were probably confused because I don't think they give the slightest poo poo about anything besides firearms. Remember, there are 300 cosplayers who show up at D*C basically every year and I have never heard them having issues (note, link is to dudes in leather diapers menacing con-goers with spears). There are also always a bunch of Urak-hai/LotR people, to say nothing of Pirates and assorted anime people with katanas. I mean, you can buy metal weapons in the dealers room, and while they usually request you peace-tie them it's not like you can peace-tie an axe or a spear in a meaningful way.
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Oct 6, 2014 15:18
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Guzwar posted:Yeah, I plan on getting accessories like that down the line. Probably another small pouch to fill with some fake gold coins, too, so I have something to slam down on tables when ordering beer. If you are going to do this, don't use fake gold coins. Instead, go to the bank and get a bunch of Sacagawea dollars. Now you have actual coins in your coinpurse that are legal tender and you can freely use to buy poo poo and tip with, which is a lot better than slamming down your fake coins and then having to carefully scoop them back up and awkwardly offer your debit card instead. I knew a couple people that would do this for SCA stuff/Renfaires, and it's something that makes a nice little touch. Although I can't guarantee that a real merchant won't hate you for handing them a big bunch of coincs. 
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Oct 31, 2014 19:53
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I want to say that if you are worried about damage, that is a legitimate concern, but don't overvalue it. If you make something from heavy, authentic materials they might be very durable, but you can also end up in the situation where you have made something that is very frustrating to use/wear and makes you hate using the costume. I made a Rocketeer costume and decided to make the jetpack out of metal (mostly because I already had a bunch of it and tools for it) and the stupid thing ended up weighing a ton. After walking a con with it all day I was really uncomfortable, and passed on wearing it the second day completely. That was with the benefit of a supporting frame and reasonably constructed straps, not something that was sitting on my head/held in hand. It can be much better to make something that you are going to be able to easily wear and carry that might need an hour of touch up and repair after a long excursion. I mean this is a halloween costume, right? You'll wear it two or three times once a year (assuming you use it for trick-or-treating, and then a couple parties) so spending a bit of time fixing it up is not going to be a problem. You only need that durability for costumes that are getting worked frequently (and more often those people actually use have multiples instead)
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Nov 17, 2014 20:31
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Silhouette posted:Take a cue from WETA and make PVC chainmail. chitoryu12 posted:I don't cosplay heavy stuff, but I do play airsoft and I've engaged in running, jumping, and climbing in dozens of pounds of gear. A major part of ensuring comfort is keeping the weight properly distributed across your body instead of straining one section.
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Nov 18, 2014 15:33
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foxatee posted:Foam? Expanding foam? Man, this is like one of those 'draw a horse' guides from when I was a kid. We need three more steps between 'pile of cheese whiz' and 'shaped like actual horns'
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Mar 2, 2015 16:02
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Please keep in mind that chainmail pants will be fairly uncomfortable to wear and sit in, unless you are wearing some sort of appropriately padded undergarments. Honestly, I would try to do the thing where you use loose-knitted fabric colored silver, this seems like the perfect use for it. neogeo0823 posted:Ok, so, I'm about ready to give up on finding something to use to hold these straps on my stilts. The closest thing I could find online to what was in the instructions was this bolt plate. I emailed them, asking for a quote, and it took them a week to get back to me and tell me that they were out of stock. Then they informed me that they have a $150 minimum order, so I basically went "Ha ha ha... No!" and now I have no idea where else to look. I've searched through McMaster-Carr, North State Supply, Fastenal, Napa Auto Parts, Value Home Centers, Lowes, Home Depot, Jo Anne Fabrics, Harbor Freight Tools, and Dival Safety, and I've asked literally every single person I had mentioned the project to, and I still cant find these loving things. You'd think that a simple slotted plate like that would be a common and easy thing to find, but nope! I tried to look back at your post history here to work out what you need this for, but it's not exactly clear to me. Do you have some sort of schematics or a diagram or something showing what you're trying to accomplish?
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Apr 2, 2015 17:11
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I found the plastic ones on hudson4supplies, but they don't have any weight information listed - you could contact these companies and ask about it, though? The issue I am finding is that 1.5" seems to be an unusual size for this sort of mounting, most places are either selling 1" or 2" mounts. You could use a 2" mount if the way it is going to be strapped means the lateral space isn't an issue, or you could fold over the strap to fit it through a 1" strap - I wouldn't recommend that on a moving surface, but seeing as it gets sewn in it seems like it would be ok? In that case, here are some options for weight-rated metal options. This piece is referred to as a mounting plate or a mounting bracket, by the way: http://www.customtiedowns.com/hooks/bolt-plates/ http://www.lodimetals.com/2-floor-anchor-mounting-bracket Also metal versions without clear load ratings, but they're being sold from cargo and auto racing supply so probably reasonable? https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2382 http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/product-p/43317-18.htm http://www.425motorsports.com/takat...16-inch-m8.html
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Apr 2, 2015 17:54
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fallin1 posted:Anyone have experience making hats, specifically tri-corn hats. Hitting a wall on my attempts and I'm getting frustrated with it. Yes, I have made a number of hats, including a tricorn. What exactly are you having problems with?
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May 4, 2015 14:47
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McPantserton posted:I forgot about those, a bunch of cosplayers I know use them. I thought about getting one but I don't think they'd work for the molded cups in my plastic breastplates. Can I get like, a cooling girdle or something? You can actually just get a smaller unit that just wraps around your stomach, like this one. There are also versions that are designed for use with athletes or low-visibility so they are more discrete that might work better with your armor. Apparently this is a thing a lot of people with MS need so there is some variety beyond just a bag stuffed with ice.
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Aug 4, 2015 17:00
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I had no idea that real handbells were so expensive. Wow. I feel like there are a couple options here, depending strongly on how much you want the bells to be usable. If you want them all to be bells that you can pull out and ring, well, I don't know there is a really good option - besides maybe picking a fairly standard shape and just shopping around for a variety of sizes that you can refit with similar handles to make them appear more like a set. If you are ok with show bells that don't ring (and after all, you should not be ringing those bells casually!) then there are a couple choices. One is to find/make a 3D model of a bell you like, and resize it to make the full set. If you print through shapeways you can do this in a number of materials, including metal. I don't think the metal print would ring properly, but it might be nicer than a printed and painted plastic. If you have access, you could even buy one real handbell you like, use a scanner to make the 3D model, and print smaller versions - then you would have a real 'ringing' bell and the others would be props. Another option is to find something involving bells you can butcher. This is the sort of thing I am thinking of, although that isn't the right look for the Abhorsen's bells. But you might be able to find some sort of thing that has a bunch of bells you can tear off and fit handles to that would work. It occurs to me that the basic shape of a bell is also shared by some bowls, cups, and pots, so you might think about looking around for sized sets of those and hacking them into bells. Again, they wouldn't ring well, but may work visually.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:44
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