|
When in doubt, check the sway bar. They tend to be the source of suspension noise up front, and they're easy to check, might just need a little grease in the mounting bushings. When they dry out they make noise over bumps.
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2015 19:01
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:07 |
|
|
This sounds like someone bought a bmw because of the badge on the front and the perceived "prestige" that comes with it, without actually considering what your getting into. A junkyard trans is probably your best bet for a quick/easy/simplest solution. It's a little bit of a chance, but if you can check the fluid before you buy it, it should give you a little bit of a better idea how healthy it is. Once it's fixed, I'd consider selling it.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2015 17:09
|
|
|
Ozone generator too maybe? Although I've heard that has the chance of discoloring fabrics/plastics. Might be worth looking into as well.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2015 04:50
|
|
|
The Mandingo posted:Thanks, that's not as bad as I thought it would be. I'd say it's nowhere near "fair", there's cigarette burns everywhere in the carpet and massive damage to the leather seats. That's prefect, showroom condition, mint, immaculate, etc in Craigslist lingo.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2015 03:55
|
|
|
Blinker fluid low? But seriously, maybe the hazard switch broke, try unplugging it?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 23, 2015 15:56
|
|
|
TKIY posted:I have a vehicle from this dealership already and it's been a fine experience so far, so I am going to give them a chance I guess. My choice of colour/interior and free oil changes for three years. For both cars :p Which Hyundai dealer did you go to?
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2015 03:45
|
|
|
TKIY posted:Oh they have, but I'm sure that they'd give me these services at their cost or near. I'm not being an rear end here but if they are offering the services at a significant discount I'm trying to figure out if it's worth having done. In general I think the detail stuff they would do is suspect at best. If they can't deliver a car without introducing a crap load of micro-scratches, I wouldn't trust them with applying a semi-permanent coating to the seats or paint. The undercoat might be the only thing I'd say you should go for, factory fresh car with a clean underside is pretty much the best time to apply extra rustproofing, and the fancy stuff they shoot on should last a decent amount of time. Plus it's not visible from the exterior of the car so even if it's not the prettiest application it should suffice as long as they got good coverage. If you want to do the fancy detail stuff I'd recommend ReBirth detailing locally.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2015 00:47
|
|
|
I just bought a 90+% tread set of Bridgestone B420 ( ) for stupid cheap for the beater forester, and I kinda want to figure out how good they are, but I haven't been able to really find anything on them online. Anybody have experience with them? Or has stronger search skills and can find a review from back when they were released?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 12, 2015 20:16
|
|
|
Soak in penetrating fluid, and use a chisel to evenly pry it away from the rotors. Next time use a grease or antisieze on the mating surface to help with disassembly for next time.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2015 16:32
|
|
|
Zorilla posted:So what is the right way to do this? I'm sure I'm overthinking this, but I don't want to jury-rig it and I definitely don't want my license plate falling off if I get it wrong. Your way overthinking this. Use two coarse thread appropriately sizes screws and screw in your license plate into the two dimples (now holes you made) on the bumper. And you're done. It's that simple. Picture for reference:  It's been like that since I got the car, and I've bombed through heavy snow and just had to bend the plate back straight. Don't have to worry about it falling off.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 5, 2015 18:30
|
|
|
martinlutherbling posted:Looking at getting some summer tires (for the spring). Does anybody have experience with Sumitomo HTR Z III's? They're some of the cheapest on Tire Rack but have tons of positive reviews with almost no negative feedback. I know tires aren't something you want to cheap out on it but it seems like these are just a legit good value. Car is an 05 92x Aero if that makes a difference. They've been my go to summer tire for the last couple years, both my Baja and Veloster are currently running them. I've really liked them and you can't beat them for price/performance ratio. They're pretty decent in the rain, fun at autoX, comfy for daily driving. Overall great tire for the price, not the best tire ever obviously, but drat good.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2015 05:13
|
|
|
Pham Nuwen posted:It's $36 which kinda sucks but it's the cheapest O2 sensor with a plug that I've seen for my truck. Since people seem to have pretty universally bad opinions of universal sensors, though, it's probably worth it to avoid wasting my time. I'd be jumping for joy for a $36 O2 sensor, I'm more used to shelling out $200+ after tax/shipping/exchange/bullshit And n-thing that I've never seen or heard of a universal one work properly. It's cheap enough that with proper technique it might work, but if you don't want to experiment just go oem.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 1, 2015 06:14
|
|
|
life is killing me posted:Anyone with leather car seats with those little holes in them, have any experience with cleaning those seats? I don't want to mess anything up, but I had a lasagna spill in my back seat and now have tomato sauce and ricotta in the holes. The back seats aren't heated like the front seats, but I'm not sure if there's anything else I'd mess up, and I don't want mildew or something. Use a leather cleaner with a microfiber/terry/paper cloth to wet the affected area, then use a powerful vacuum. Should clear up the holes, might need to repeat a few times to get it completely clear. Goodluck
|
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2015 22:38
|
|
|
iv46vi posted:Acura remotes will roll windows down when you press unlock twice and then hold it down. Fun fact: On most (all?) models you can't roll them back up with the remote (unless you do a small wiring hacks to make it go) Supposedly it's so that you don't pinch/cut/whatever anything that might be in the window after it gets rolled down and since you'd be doing it by remote you might not notice it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 21, 2015 04:37
|
|
|
Plus, you'd have to double check the bmw's tires can safely handle the rangers weight. You'd have to check the minimum load rating for your ranger and compare to the rating on your studded winters. Your best bet is to get the ranger it's own tires, and either sell the ones from your bmw or find another vehicle that'll be better suited for their size.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2015 14:57
|
|
|
Wheel will probably be fine, if it hasn't cracked at worst it might be slightly bent and would need repair (kinda tricky and there's wrong ways to do it, replacement is the preferred option if it's damaged) The sidewall bubble is a safety issue, it will pop, and it will do so when the tire's being stressed so more likely to cause an accident when it does eventually fail. Safest course is to replace immediately and inspect the wheel while the tire's off. Take it as a lesson for him and please don't endanger others on the road by continuing to drive on that tire.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 4, 2015 07:06
|
|
|
Why not just get a set of winter wheels and throw snow tires on there? You can for 17" wheels for sure on the forester, might even fit 16" wheels (or as small as 15" but finding tires tall enough might be a headache) if they didn't change the hubs for the turbo models, you have 5x100 bolt pattern which lets you use pretty much any pre 2014 non-STI oem wheels. Should be able to pick up a used set for ~$200 then you'd just have to find tires. Tire rack is the go to for most people, if you have a membership Costco can be pretty awesome for tire prices as well. Here's my family's 2015 NA forester on gold WRX 17" alloys. The tires are a little undersized since they're from my Baja. Size 215/60R-17 but for the forester they should ideally be 65 aspect ratio. 
Bajaha fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Nov 21, 2015 |
|
#
¿
Nov 21, 2015 21:08
|
|
|
B4Ctom1 posted:This really helps, but how many tire sensors can I program for? We kill tires all the time as our 60 mile commute includes 20 miles of rough crushed gravel roads. I have killed tires simply because a nail or sharp bit of gravel and then drove 1/4 mile before I realized I was completely flat. Costco has the same deal on Michelin and Bridgestone tires at the moment, $70 off. I've got a set of WS80's on my old forester, and the 2015 pictured above is on WS70's from my Baja. Personally I've been favoring the Bridgestone (b\c of price) but the Michelin X-Ice series is supposed to be a top contender too.  This is a handy site for comparing the size differences with different tire\wheel packages. Most OEM subaru wheels are around +48ish offset and usually around 6.5"- 7" rim width. I've found reports of people using 16" wheels on 2014+ foresters, also it looks like all levels of forester use the same brakes, at least if you look at the cross compatibility for the rotors and calipers  B4Ctom1 posted:This really helps, but how many tire sensors can I program for? We kill tires all the time as our 60 mile commute includes 20 miles of rough crushed gravel roads. I have killed tires simply because a nail or sharp bit of gravel and then drove 1/4 mile before I realized I was completely flat. I think you can only program one set of TPMS sensors at a time. You'll either have to be more vigilant for that section of your commute or you'll have get a second set of sensors and see what the procedure for reprogramming is. It could be simple or it could mean a dealer trip.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2015 17:17
|
|
|
ExecuDork posted:Double-postin' to switch tone. You wouldn't happen to have a link to her story about the mother and son, the one where the mother has Alzheimer's /dementia, falls by the fridge, then the son falls too and it's one of the most horrible stories I've ever read? I think it came up in the chat thread recently. But I can't track it down.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2015 18:12
|
|
|
spog posted:A hire car for the weekend. Good luck finding a manual rental in North America.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2015 23:05
|
|
|
From a performance perspective, copper plugs are the best, but they don't last that long and on forced induction engines the added stress wears them remarkably quick. Plat or iridium should be fine, check amazon, sometimes they're surprisingly cheap for basic maintenance parts.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2016 18:07
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:What the hell, those don't even look rusty! Not in the slightest. Lefty loosy, righty tighty? You sure you're applying force in the right direction? E: in your pic, your should be "lifting" the breaker bar with the socket on the nut, and a wrench on the bolt head. This is just wrinkling my brain how something so clean can be so stuck. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 15, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Jan 15, 2016 20:31
|
|
|
You can repair the wire as long as you use a crimp with the same metal. Otherwise you'll create a thermocouple junction and you'll get skewed readings and your O2 sensor will appear to not work. You could theoretically solder an O2 sensor in if all the wires are soldered in an equal way. In those cases the thermoelectric effects will cancel out. Same principal why you can space out a thermocouple junction with a dissimilar metal between the two leads and still get a valid reading.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2016 20:33
|
|
|
Ozmiander posted:I'm losing my mind. I have non operational fog lights on my 03 forester. I have power to the fuse and switch, but not the relay, even though it clicks open/closed. Any ideas? There should be a fuse in the engine compartment somewhere by the relay. If you don't have power at the relay, it's either that fuse or the wires between relay -> fuse-> battery. You're getting clicking so your switch gear and the relay is working as intended.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2016 01:14
|
|
|
scuz posted:1.). They both could be, but I'm hoping they aren't because they're $300 each. How do you even, just how is a thermostat $300? God drat Germans. I can't even think of any semi-exotic material you could possibly use, or how you could complicate a thermostat, or is this 15¢ of material for $300 case? nth-ing the pot of hot water on the stove test method.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2016 20:29
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:But I would think an alternator presents a not-insignificant load as well, especially when you suddenly throw 50+ amps of load at it? (i.e. cranking the wheel while, say, parallel parking) Or does the battery act as enough of a buffer that you're not tossing a huge load at the alternator (and thus, load on the engine) at once? A 50A load translates to around 0.8hp, let's say 1hp worst case. The battery is going to be providing most of that current, not the alternator, but even if it didn't (say discharged battery) it's still not that huge of a load on an engine. At worst you might get a slight dip in rpm as the idle control system compensates for the extra load.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2016 22:25
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Ok so it makes perfect sense at that price; here the veloster is priced squarely against WRX and the like so hardly any sell and they're considered a massive ripoff for the performance you get. But under 20k that is a hell of a lot of car! Where are you again? Even in Canada the base WRX is a decent amount more than the fully loaded Veloster. If you want comparably equipped, the Veloster is much cheaper (it's also less powerful and fwd but the price difference has to come from somewhere) Hyundai also has more attractive financing and incentives than Subaru from what I've seen.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 17, 2016 03:26
|
|
|
MonkeyBot posted:I'm back with the 93 Volvo 850. It started off where it would crank but not start. I have since replaced the plugs (with the OE plugs even!), wires and camshaft position sensor which was throwing an intermittent signal code. I'm almost there. I turn the key and the engine cranks and the pistons start firing and the engine rumbles like it's about to start but it never quite catches and starts going on its own. Where am I now in the land of trouble-shooting? Check fuel pressure / fuel filter?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 18, 2016 16:12
|
|
|
Eh, I've seen it. It's usually the old guy who turns complaining into an Olympic sport. Drove through a neighborhood regularly and my exhaust occasionally pops and has a decent rumble and had an old grey haired guy literally shaking his fist at me every other time as I passed his house at 45kph. Those are the kinds of people who equate loud = fast and love complaining. I've never heard of anyone getting notices in the mail from complaints, but I do believe in the power of the bored and crotchety to write/phone in those complaints.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2016 04:38
|
|
|
Drinking hot tea and eating spicy food is also an alternative.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2016 23:24
|
|
|
JUST MAKING CHILI posted:I've got a 2010 Honda Civic with the peeling paint flaw that many of that generation had Flaw existed before warranty ran out. I would stand my ground and berate them for not mentioning it at previous services as it is a known issue on their end, could be interpreted as them trying to take advantage of trusting customers by withholding information like that.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 1, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Putting HIDs in a halogen reflector housing is a big no, but what about in a halogen projector housing? Is there a difference with the projector lens? In my experience it's still not good, but you're not as rage inducing as the HID in reflector housing. It might be because the internal cutoff shield helps minimize the glare you get, or the scattered light for lighting up signs is scavenged from the otherwise waisted light that falls within the projector housing and that isn't designed to just grab the lowest intensity light off of the filament.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2017 20:24
|
|
|
There's an aerosol spray from 3M that's simply labeled as adhesive remover. It's worked OK for me in the past. Spray, Let it soak a few minutes, spray some more, then deal with a gooey mess to scrape off. It was cheap from an auto parts store iirc.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2018 10:54
|
|
|
It's normal. If I'm shopping for something above beater status I want the VIN to run a car fax or equivalent to see if any red flags pop up, also to check if it's listed somewhere else under the same VIN. With Porsches you also can use it to look up the cars MSRP and originally ordered options. I think I've heard that Chevy has a similar service available.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2018 17:48
|
|
|
It hit that magic sweetspot where the voltage dipped enough to clear the volatile ram you've got in your cluster but not low enough to clear the radio. That or the radio has some more capacitance in the circuit and the droop wasn't low enough for long enough to clear the radio. Either way, new battery time. I suggest Costco for their impeccable treatment of warranty issues and very reasonable pricing.
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2018 19:24
|
|
|
Higher Air density making the turbo more effective and thermal efficiency of the intercooler are going to be the biggest contributors. Can confirm that cool air during the spring and fall definitely translate to more power on turbo cars as they can take advantage of it. Hence boost season  If you live somewhere where it gets really cold you lose a little power with a good intercooler since some of the energy is wasted warming up the intake charge and in general atomization of the fuel isn't as good with extremely low intake temps.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2018 19:45
|
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:My wife is saying her 2014 Odyssey is starting to shift a lot harder (coincidentally, she reports this after going on a week long trip with her dad, who is very fussy about his GMCs and thinks we shouldn't have bought a 'cheap import' because he lives on planet 1971) Software updates should be free I would assume but you'll have to call the dealer to confirm.
|
|
#
¿
May 18, 2018 16:18
|
|
|
STR posted:But I'm guessing removal of most glued-in windshields usually destroys them, doesn't it? If you're careful you can remove it. I used a high strength metal cable wrapped around two makeshift handles to gently saw away at the gasket to free a windshield from a junkyard forester. It's tedious work, and if you care about the donor vehicle you'll have to be careful not to damage the surrounding metal. Stressful too as the perimeter of the glass is longer than you think and every inch you're worried about cracking the new one. I managed to pull it off but did a tiny amount of damage to one corner on the donor glass. Still sealed fine at least.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2018 13:49
|
|
|
Checking your grounds refers to verifying the connection between the negative terminal and the body, as well as the various points where your electrical harness is tied to the chassis, typically a wire terminated with a ring terminal fixed to the chassis with a small bolt. These get corroded over time and may not have a good connection, causing weird electrical gremlins. You shouldn't just visually inspect them but also undo them, wire brush / clean them, and reattach to ensure they're making a good connection.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2018 04:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:07 |
|
|
builds character posted:Isn’t the answer to this some sturdy jack stands and then kick it off? STR, I think it's time to break out the BFH and give it some percussive persuasion. And none of that gentle rubber mallet garbage, a proper steel sledge is in order. If possible try wedgeing a chisel between the drum and the backplate?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2018 12:41
|
|