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115 too early for a trans failure? haha never. If it was never touched? oh loving definitely right on par. I could list about 25 transmissions that'd fail if the fluid went untouched for 40-60 thousand miles. (Limp mode is usually electrical fault unless one of the internal speed sensors notes a slipping condition of that apply clutch)
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Feb 27, 2015 18:29
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4 bolts. 2 out back, 2 where the grille mounts. http://imgur.com/a/6NHjX Pix. one with one circle has the other bolt below it. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Mar 12, 2017 |
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Mar 12, 2017 04:05
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BlackMK4 posted:
Probably not a HG. One thing can cause the other if the battery is weak and or voltages wander with an intermittent alternator.
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Nov 21, 2017 17:31
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NitroSpazzz posted:That's what I was thinking but the fact it works fine without vacuum seems odd. I might rebuild master and booster since they're probably original This era of ford had an archaic electronic ignition system... make sure it's not overheating and doing something silly. Nthing coil/ballast too... Relays on a 80s Ford? surely you jest. the horn has one, doubt anything else does. Motronic posted:A lot of them aren't DOT legal, so people shouldn't be looking at $60 7" sealed beams from amazon and saying "LEDs suck". Proper 7" sealed beam DOT legal LEDs cost real money. https://www.autoanything.com/lights/sylvania-zevo-led-sealed-beam-replacement-headlights Trucklite cures all that ails your ancient round headlights.
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Dec 1, 2018 17:56
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you can weld in a cat, but it has to be 'carb compliant' in order to purchase one. ie: you're probably not getting a generic from ebay. (amazon recommends MagnaFlow 444205 and can be ordered). as for the intake plenum, visit a local salvage yard or ebay one. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Dec 7, 2018 |
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Dec 7, 2018 16:13
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Endless Mike posted:Hey guys, I know there used to be a Toyoburu thread, but I can't find it, so this'll have to go here. I took my 2013 FR-S manual with 26k miles into my local dealer for the valve spring recall. With the engine out, they have also suggested the following: They're loving you. They're trying to pass on their loving on having to pull an engine under recall work. Escalate this to corporate. Leal posted:My internet sleuthing is giving a bunch of conflicting answers. Can I not weld in a cat converter in California and have it be street legal? I read that aftermarket is illegal, there is an aftermarket list (whose link doesn't work), apparently I cannot go to a pick n pull and grab a pair there because its not legal to sell used cats in California, CARB certified cats are tested then given model and serial numbers hence the premium. It is likely that some generic cats will underperform which shows on the dyno test. Get generic CARB legal cats and weld em in yourself. The state or Fed can not stop you from doing your own repairs, especially with new legal parts. even a shitbox $100 HF 110V buzzbox will do the trick. Do not waste your money or time on used catalytics. Period.
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Jan 13, 2019 06:37
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Queen Combat posted:The areas the suspension connects to have to hold the weight of the car, so I always look around those points for a flat or V spot. this.. subframes are pretty stout too. Don't use oilpans  MB for example uses plastic lift points that are surprisingly stout on the sills.. MrOnBicycle posted:
Don't doxx me please.
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Jan 26, 2019 21:27
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tactlessbastard posted:Do any of the headlight restoring products work? Mine are getting pretty hazy. yes. clear over em with plastic clear paint and they'll last longer than ~yr. $15 amazon 3m kit works good.
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Jan 31, 2019 20:55
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Will it have a working parking brake? You'll need to rework the proportioning valve and or the master cylinder. Didn't the late model rangers come with rear disk? pillage parts from those.
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Jul 24, 2020 18:06
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Deteriorata posted:Probably because if the rears lock up you'll spin out. yup. As much as rear drums suck, it'll step out if the truck is unladen and on low traction surfaces. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is a giant pain and not worth the effort. Agreed. Swap in a disc-brake 8.8 or something if you must screw with it. The coin is best chasing after differed maintenance or building a slush fund for when something breaks.
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Jul 26, 2020 02:29
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spankmeister posted:No offense but sounds like it's missing a proper diagnosis before swapping the ECU. Seconding this. "brain boxes" aka PCMs generally do not fail.
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Aug 9, 2020 16:47
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Charles posted:I think there are a few cars that are actually known to. The good news is a Crown Vic ECU shouldn't be expensive, there have to be tons of them. Yeah, off hand, 80s Hondas, some toyotas of that vintage and capacitor failures, early 24Valve cummins engines with corrupting the rom, Dodge 4.7s that wouldn't communicate over OBD with scan tools or smog machines requiring a new pcm, 2.4 caravans on the ignition coil drivers, and 80s through SAGEMS british poo poo and non conformal coated pcbs, caps, and numerous other stupid nagging problems. I've seen crown vics with well over 500k miles on the original pcm. Shotgun parts at it or do proper diagnostics into why it's not working. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Aug 9, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 17:59
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taqueso posted:Why do diesel engines sound so clattery? Even new diesel trucks sound like pieces of the engine are loose and rattling. In short? pressure front from combustion. In a compression ignition engine when the fuel is injected it'll spontaneously ignite causing a sudden spike in pressure. You're hearing that spike in pressure. The pressure spike is so sudden and strong that it will flex cylinder walls. It'll even cause cavitation in the cooling jackets. The same effect you see in impellers/propellers. Compression ignition works differently from your traditional spark ignition engine. It'll use compression ratios around 17-20:1 wheras your typical spark ignition engine runs 7-12:1. This significantly higher compression ratio superheats the air charge to ~600C which is higher than diesel's autoignition temperature of 210C Modern diesels do multi sequence injections that cuts down on the clatter. The injector fires many small pulses of fuel to 1. waste less fuel. 2. increase combustion efficiency and 3. less clatter. E: VVV haha I'M SETTING THE RACK, I CAN'T HEAR YOU SPEAK LOUDER OR USE SMOKE SIGNALS cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Sep 3, 2020 |
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Sep 3, 2020 19:11
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KakerMix posted:And because of all that diesel engines will always have to be built stronger to take that abuse which lends itself well to reliability and longevity in a general sense. which is why a diesel longblock weighs more than the a gas longblock of similar displacement. Not only is there increased engineering margin within the block and rotating assemblies, the internal tolerances are also significantly tighter.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:30
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87 bricknose? fyi your cluster has two engine lights. one is a monitor for low oil pressure/high coolant temp which is handled by a little board on the back of the cluster, the other is for engine management. My 90' diesel hooptie has both lights, EMS light goes nowhere. E2: hold the binnacle up to the sun and you'll be able to see the engine lamps. Same for the cluster, pull bulbs, shine a flashlight in the slot. E3: this assumes full instrumentation. 87 xlt clusters had a different gauge background. Not sure on the flex ribbon differences for 87' xl and xlt are swappable afaik. 300 with efi? that's eec-iv. it has on board diagnostics. there's a connector under the hood. you'll need to jumper two pins on it and the cel will flash out error codes for you. ECM is behind the plastic kick panel left of the parking brake. If its carburetored only the ignition system has a controller, and it is extremely primitive. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/testing-eec-iv-equipped-engines/ https://www.repairconnector.com/products/Ford-EEC-IV-Test-Plug-Repair-Pigtail.html https://www.blueovaltech.com/tech/eecivcodes.php http://www.amopower.com/eec-iv.htm E: the cluster is fixable with a soldering iron. Traces do fail on the flexible pcb. Lightly sand your lamp sockets with fine grit paper. I rebuilt the cluster on mine in 2016 with success and in 2018/19 converted it to a real oil pressure sender instead of a switch. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Oct 31, 2020 |
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Oct 31, 2020 18:46
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L29 is solid, as is the 4L80E behind it. There might be a valvebody issue where it won't stay in OD when warm. There's a sleeve kit or a replacement VB for it. I think the factory corrected it by 96+ though I don't know for sure. (My 91' V2500 454/4l80 had this issue.) loving fuelpumps suck. Moreso if it is a Z71(skidplate). Buy once, cry once, or prepare to drop a tank (that's likely full of fuel) with the skid a second time. Load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it at the fucker. Do it sooner rather than later. Bearings/brakes/bushings. Do it now and forget about it. Opt for the tow package for a larger transmisson cooler, lower gears and a lsd! Rear should be a 14 bolt which you aren't going to hurt. Body poo poo. rear air might have issues with the lines as they age. Driver's seats are typically shot by 200k, as is the column. Easy to fix using junkyard parts. Door pins as mentioned. Easy to do. HVAC stuff does crap out as it ages, though it is very well documented. the 400 still uses a scroll aircon compressor which I've never obtained reliability with. These do not use the stupid spider injector so that's an enormous bonus imo.
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Dec 5, 2020 00:54
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A fire that's small enough to be contained within the engine bay/hood? Yeah sure that's not much worse than rodent damage. If the dash and windshield are damaged from heat or smoke, consider it a parts donor. it can be fixed, at a great cost of time.
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Dec 25, 2020 02:00
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Update the timing set on the AJ8 to the post 2005 models. It requires special tools unless you're really loving good with a degree wheel and a paint pen.
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Jan 21, 2021 20:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd agree with the dealer in this case. Technically it's brake fluid and picks up water over time, but not at the same rate brake fluid does and you're never going to get the clutch hydraulics hot enough where water boiling off is a problem. Also noteworthy that not all clutch systems are designed to be bled. Some are "sealed for life" in that you can't bleed them. (Brake fluid is hygroscopic, though it can chemically bond with water making it hydrophilic) cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Feb 27, 2021 |
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Feb 27, 2021 20:09
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skipdogg posted:This is my thought as well. I had this happen on a Ford Explorer and adjusting the rubber hood bumper stop things upward reduced it. Do this. Adjust those and the hood latch to keep the hood flush with the bodywork.
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Mar 23, 2021 04:58
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STR posted:Without a synchro, and if you're just shoving the clutch in, then throwing it into reverse? Absolutely. If you hold the clutch down for a good 5 seconds, THEN shift into reverse, you'll probably still get a slight clunk. Bingo. Do this. Some gearboxes are pretty fragile about the reverse idler, hawing on it will break it.
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Mar 24, 2021 21:39
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STR posted:Got a used bumper for Brokeback. It's in better shape in that it's not cracked or sagging, but the paint is a little more beat. Late to the party. Get a can or two of color matched touch up spray paint. Clear the garage, set up some cheap plastic and saw horses. do the sanding/priming/painting yourself. It'll come out better than it currently looks.
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Mar 26, 2021 01:11
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Grab a dual battery tray for a dmax. Run a deep cycle with your starter battery. Run an isolator and cut-out switch between the two. Power your radio accessories off of the deep cycle. I'm personally not a fan of optimas. Interstate and yeet it.
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Mar 29, 2021 03:39
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redreader posted:Should I buy this car? Do you like pain, lots of pain? Expect to pay asking or double to dig it out of maintenance debt. Then take the 7500 you were going to spend on this 330k mile car and buy something that'll need less work. Javid posted:Beginning to think seriously about my next upgrade to the electrical in the conversion van. At what point do I need to invest in a bigger alternator? Rockauto appears to list 90 amps as the OE spec, which maths out to 1260 watts at 14v. How much wattage does just normal operation consume, ie how much is left over for me to charge things on the road? Am I even approaching this math correctly? 90A is a decent start but I have next to no information about the van itself, its loadout(power windows, locks, lighting, hvac, engine management), or the upfit you plan to build into it. No, 90A will not run an instantpot.
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Apr 15, 2021 00:55
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Javid posted:Sorry, this is a 92 ram van (b250). It's got power windows and locks but little else. Definitely not trying to run any kind of electric heat on it, but I'm going to have some kind of battery array that I'll want to keep topped up when the engine is running. Oh just a coach battery? Yeah go for it hang whatever lead acid/agm deep cell you want off of it. Use a dc/dc converter if you're going lithium, it'll fry the diode pack in the alternator otherwise. There's fancy disconnects that handle switching for you so that the coach battery doesn't drain the starting battery. Switch it (solenoid switched by an ignition source is a cheap way to avoid dead starting batteries) + manually resetable circuit breaker if you're on a budget.
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Apr 15, 2021 01:26
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Dayco sucks.
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Apr 15, 2021 19:15
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Motronic posted:Does any marque other than Porsche recognize a "double tap" on the noisy pedal to mean "downshift two gears"? Because that could fix the problem right there. I use it all the time, especially when pulling a trailer. I've yet to see another marque with it which is a shame because it's a fantastic idea. Scruffpuff posted:Make/Model: 2015 Dodge Challenger R/T, 8-cyl 5.7 liter Its working nominally for a cryco slushy. seriouspost. use Sport mode/reflash the pcm to be more responsive.
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Apr 18, 2021 17:48
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pumped up for school posted:Not an immediate problem question, more of a planning train of thought. 6.4? dump it. Otherwise I'm assuming its a gasser. Assuming it is 4wd. slow fill: check the air bypass tube adjacent to the filler neck. Its probably obstructed. check all the equalization vents on the top of the tank. manifold leak: In a gasser it can cause erroneous O2 sensor readings which screws with the fuel trims. It can eventually trigger a check engine light. oil plug leaks: probably an old reused crush washer or stripped pan. hope its the former. filter leak? filter seal itself, the adapter block its on, or something above it like a valve cover. diff leak: depends on where. pinion seal is easy to swap. check the axle vent tube for blockage, that'll push fluid past any oil seal. Tight steering: that's odd, fords are usually the opposite. Uniform in that it requires excessive force from lock to lock? or is it non uniform? Lube all the tie rod ends and the like. check the damper and ball joints. Steering boxes don't wear in, they wear out. (Ie tolerances increase) so its unlikely that the steering gear is mis adjusted. Check the steering shaft from the column as well. Ford PAS pumps don't typically die, though fresh fluid will probably help it.
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May 2, 2021 18:14
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pumped up for school posted:Coming back to this (F250 slow fill at pump, auto shutoff every 2-10s). iirc the purge valves are normally closed devices in that they do not pass air(in this case, fuel vapor). If it is a normally open valve for evap leak detection purposes or the like (i don't have an evap diagram for it in front of me), then yes, replace that valve. I don't think that the vapor purge valve is it. With the line removed the air has somewhere to go as you fill the tank. Its a displacement problem. With newer filler necks there's a secondary hose alongside the primary filler for evacuating the displaced air as the tank is filled. In CA vapor recovery fueling nozzles keep that evacuated air from reaching atmo. I've not taken one apart on a normal bed of that vintage. There could be a plastic baffle that joins the air tube and filler hoses. The problem is its vent is obstructed, either by a smashed hose or a rollover valve that failed. The tank is trying to vent itself through the primary filler tube as you fill it causing the backup triggering the nozzle. fwiw. Ford fillnecks suck. WTFBEES posted:Anyone have experience with / opinions on those DIY windshield chip repair kits? I've got what appears to be a perfect candidate if they work worth a poo poo. yep. 3M makes one that's fine. So does Rainx and Permatex.
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May 3, 2021 03:15
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You'll spend many multiples of the original purchase price digging it out of maintenance debt. VG30 things: Do the coolant pump/tstat and all the coolant hoses in the valley. Might as well shotgun all the belts/hoses now. Thing is probably gonna eat another fuel pump too. It'll probably have a few leaks crop up from sitting.
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May 17, 2021 15:55
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Empress Brosephine posted:The japanese half tons would be the Titan, Tundra and anything else? Tundra or titan (depending on loadout) can pull anything on Dutchman's list. Safety Dance posted:You'd probably be okay with a Nissan Armada or a Toyota Land Cruiser / Sequoia as well. Cruiser is rated at 8100 for the new one, and 8500 for the Armada. Sequoia is rated at 7-7400lb. This isn't enough to pull Dutchman's larger offerings. Wet/ready to go weight will be around 1500lb(+/-500lb) heavier than dry, keep this in mind for tow vehicle shopping.
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Jun 2, 2021 18:06
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Without getting into reliability being largely a factor of owner care, Nissans do tend to have more issues than Toyotas. Nissan hasn't refreshed their truck line in quite some time so they're dated compared to other offerings. The Cummins v8 doesn't offset the aging platform it resides in. I have no personal experience with the Titan line. I've been in, around, and through the Frontier line; get a Tacoma. You can't go wrong with a v8 Tundra. I've seen a couple out west here pulling far north of 5 tons though its a white knuckle experience for all parties involved.
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Jun 2, 2021 18:44
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wolrah posted:Wow, I've always heard that central tire inflation systems were a maintenance nightmare, I know the Hummer guys tend to disable theirs when it breaks rather than repairing it, so I'm shocked to see it on semi trucks. RadioPassive posted:semi tires are a lot more expensive, the gap between inflation system cost and additional wear on underinflated tires is probably bigger for semis than hummers Class8 hardware is significantly larger than what is used in a humvee allowing for more robustness via oversized components which reduce wear and failure points. One is also built for the military at a quality/price point, one built to do a job for 5yr/500k-mi at minimum. The humvee is also IRS/IFS whereas class8 is typically on live axle front/rear. Fewer moving parts, Lower complexity.
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Jun 9, 2021 18:14
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Motronic posted:The slowly decreasing amount of fluid in the reservoir is expected to some extent: it's your brake pads wearing. yep inspect all soft lines and hard lines if its a rustbelt vehicle. Masters tend to leak at the junction where it bolts to the booster assembly. A cheap test is to pump it till the booster is depleted then hold the pedal for about 2 minutes. No pedal movement? M/C is fine. Crashes and 30-40 year old vehicles? Subaru and Volvo will fare better than average. BOF anything will be worse than average with pickups at the worst. Step one for driving an old truck is "do not crash into anything" Step two "when things go pear shaped, See Step One."
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Jun 23, 2021 22:30
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spankmeister posted:Don't trucks that old all have rotten frames and clapped out body mounts anyway? You're likely to slide cab and all into a mess of crumpled steel, glass, bones and blood. You tell me boss 
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Jun 23, 2021 22:55
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ryanrs posted:Speaking of KO2s, when do you replace them? Do they start sucking offroad even though they might have legal tread left? Mine aren't there yet, but I'm wondering what happens as they get older. 5 years in the dez. They get hard and will start to slide in the wet long before they become BaldTerrains. Dig your fingernail into the rubber. Does it feel hard/resists imprinting? yeah cash em in. If it doesn't and you can leave a mark, they're ok. Hard to explain..you'll know. Head Bee Guy posted:Is there a convenient way to compare the hauling and towing capacity of various makes, models, and configurations of trucks? 'Cheap' and 'Toyota' do not go in the same statement unless it has been rolled, rusted in half, ingested water, salt, IEDs, or sand. As for truck to truck comparisons? New? easy. Old? not so easy. Build your own spreadsheets. Always buy more truck than you need.... says the guy with a F350 that's two classes too small for the poo poo its going through. NotNut posted:How much does a rebuilt/previous salvage title really affect a car's value? Google says 20-40%. The one I'm looking at was repaired completely to the point you can't tell anything happened (except one headlight is clear and the other needs polished). But it was in an accident. The person I'm talking to is trying to sell it for just over 80% of the KBB average value. Its not worth poo poo. Walk away unless you're intending to run it into the ground and scrap it. There's no resale, No full coverage, and in some cases, insurance companies won't touch it at all. Some states won't put plates on it. NotNut posted:How many miles could I expect a 2011 Jetta to last? NotNut posted:Not much 6 months or so. Less if you drive it.
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Jul 10, 2021 19:44
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Giganticon posted:I can't seem to find anyone to sell me a pressure gauge that goes up to 165-200 psi. All the gauges I can find at stores top out at 100psi but my book tells me 165psi + is the normal run pressure. This tool can't be uncommon - this seems to be a common GM transmission. Where do you typically buy tools like this? I am in Seattle so I am sure there is a store that has this type of stuff but my web search skills are failing me, looks like I'll have to order something. I guess I could build one with McMaster-Carr parts. No tool exists? make the tool! Hit up a hydraulic shop. Worst case Grainger or McMaster Carr. Get the gauge and potentially the hose section from them. There's tons of places to get short sections of hydraulic hose with standard fittings on either end. Tractor supply is one. Pro mode is to put the gauge on a hydraulic quick connect that way it can be used for multiple duties. Cheap gauges need not apply.
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Jul 16, 2021 16:42
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spankmeister posted:Could you potentially register it in a neighboring state to get around that? Sorta yeah but what a pain in the rear end. The farmtruck I run had a mid 4 figures in backfees due to it being unregistered for a decade. The (interim) PO took care of those, I bought the truck basically for the cost of those backfees. Its sort of the states way of trying to rid old cars by making it precipitously expensive to return them to the roads. luminalflux posted:This year it's $23 for planned non-operation, compared to $323 for renewing my car. CA will let you do this to a degree with non-use filing, it can be done online. Thanks to 2020 I've had to do it to my motos twice now. Costs? The farmtruck hovers around $350 for a 31 year old vehicle, its taxed on its unladen weight. Fine by me. E: cakesmith handyman posted:Continuous vigorous bubbling from the overflow tank *from cold" is definitely a blown head gasket right? You got it. Pressure test the cooling system while using a borescope if you really care. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jul 19, 2021 |
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Jul 19, 2021 18:22
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Krakkles posted:Especially because they're pretty aggressive about enforcing it - there are programs to get people to rat out other people who have their car registered somewhere else, and it's definitely a thing that will get questioned if you have a CA license and are driving a vehicle with out of state plates. I've never actually tried, the chp comes down pretty gnarly on people trying to skirt registration if its not a brand new amg... I have been the dumb kid to drive a car with a pile of fees outside of the one day permit which resulted in a huge rear end ticket + having to pay the backfees on the car though that was over a decade ago when everything was financially strapped and hurting for cash.
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Jul 19, 2021 18:46
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Thermostat isn't working properly or you have an air lock in the system. Did the new thermostat have a bleeder shaker? squeeze the poo poo out of the upper hose, listen for gurgling.
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Jul 20, 2021 20:49
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