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Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Verisimilidude posted:



Was allowed to open a gift early and I have the best mother in-law!

yeah I like Cashews too

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Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




need some color advice.

Son talked med into getting back into 40k, so I have a Marine scheme going:



I'm Stuck on a color for Sargeant helmets though (I want to do the Ultramarine style contrast helmets)

My gut says a subdued yellow, but Ice Blue would be a nice inclusion of a cool color to contrast all the warm I have going on?

Open to any ideas if you have them.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Toebone posted:

Elegoo Mars 2 Pro

how is the smell when you're printing? does the carbon filter work?

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




AndyElusive posted:


I didn't stop to ask myself if I should.

and God willing, you never will.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Skails posted:

Gut reaction says blue.

This was correct.



Worked so well, I worked a little blue into the chainswords of the rest of the unit.


The recruit box:



Found an Indomitus box in Calgary for retail (I think) so that's the next batch.

I think I need to re-think how the knees are going to work. I might try taking the inverted color all the way up the guards at the top of the kneecap armour.
Also, the Pauldrons on these were a disaster. Guess it's time to get a #0 brush.

Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Mar 5, 2021

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Did some more Grimcast:



love it.

Faces are too clean,

but I genuinely love it.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




rantmo posted:

Strange-ish question: I bought one of those battery-powered airbrushes last week after I discovered their existence in the thread and I'm buying the various supplies for it (cleaner, airbrush thinner, the Badger Wyldstallyns primer three-pack) but I want to also get a bottle of airbrush paint to start playing with; what's a good paint for babby's first airbrushing? I've been looking at Vallejo and a few others but I really just want to find one that's user-friendly, I honestly don't care about the color, just one that needs a shake and a little thinner to be able to make a mess of some paper.

water+food coloring. This isn't a joke, water almost always goes through an airbrush without issue, and if you're just painting some paper it's all the pigment you'll need.

(real answer Vallejo Model Air. I frequently spray it neat with no problems)

Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 22:25 on May 3, 2021

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




DreadUnknown posted:

Hot drat the new Lord Kroak is super good. Actually all the new AoS hero models are super bananas.
Clicky for cool poo poo.

Sorry, but this looks like a dude getting his rear end eaten

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




The cell shaded style colouring on the jacket is perfect

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Ghislaine of YOSPOS posted:

i bought a badger 360. my airbrush compressor didn't come with a hose. I bought an airbrush hose with a 1/8" end and a 1/4" end and an adapter that purported to work for badger air brushes. it doesn't seem to fit the hose and I can't easily find what I need through Google--does anyone know off hand what I need to get going with this brush?

Man my current air hose is 3 different hoses I’ve cobbled together in a once-temporary attempt to use my compressor

It’s something like 1/8”->1/4”male, 1/4” female->1/4” female, 1/4” male->Badger connector.

I was going to grab a adaptor for my compressor the next time I was at princess auto, but that was almost a year ago.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




DarkAvenger211 posted:

I've discovered the secret to making metallic red so I ended up with these guys:




KAAANEEEEDAAAAAA!

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Did some more Grimcast:




GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Painted up some more rusty Stormcast:



Yndrasta


Praetors


Leena Stormspire and Larissa Shadowstalker


These skin tones fit WAY better.

Just lovely work.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




DarkAvenger211 posted:

So I picked up a bunch of small bottles to mix some paints / make some washes out of some. I've only got a bunch of citadel paints and a pot of citadel medium as well. I've currently run into a problem I didn't think about until now which is how the hell do I get the paint and medium into these bottles?

The citadel pots aren't really made for pouring, do people usually just scoop it into bottles with brushes? I don't really have a tiny funnel either. I'm curious to see how other people do this :)

If you can find them, buy a bulk pack of plastic straws.

Snip off about a third of a straw, dip it in to your desired amount, cover the back of the straw with the pad of your fingertip, and you can move the paint wherever you want.

This works even more amazing for measuring precise amounts of thinner, etc.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Eej posted:

Doing some colour scheme tests. Tried out a white space marine colour scheme and the blue base coat gave me more of a very light blue I think. Not sure which one I like more although I might have to brighten up the eyes on the white scheme.



Split second reaction: Cream guy
considered reaction: Ungh that blue is so good.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




is stylnrezzz sandable?

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:


I would have given up already but dammit if it's not a cool pose

Thread title.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




That red is lush.

I wanna carpet made out of that material.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Communist Thoughts posted:

Is there a terrain thread? not sure where to put this but I've started making terrain for the first time and I'm pretty pleased with this tower made out of a doritos stax tube

I refuse to measure so that's why everything is wonky but also lore reasons yknow

No idea how to paint it though

Eric’s Hobby Workshop Necromunda videos are probably your best starting point.

Basically, brown/rust, chipping medium or liquid mask, bright craft paints, rub off chips, dry brush, brown wash, detail with black wash, hate sand (it gets in everything)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ae28FZleLzQ

Edit: watching back I got everything wrong for paint order.


Also, yes we need a terrain thread. No, I’m not volunteering.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008





:tipshat:

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Night Danger Moose posted:

Tried out a different colour scheme on my Vanquisher. The green is Angel Green from Army Painter, and it really did not want to go on top of Citadel's Runelord Brass. I can see it's a bit messy in a few spots but overall I like how it turned out.



Putting greenboy beside blueboy is really not fair to the perfectly fine paint job on the original Vanquisher.

I really really like the desaturated armour colour.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




jesus WEP posted:

idk why but this reminded me of vince venturella reviewing a bunch of paint brands and he gave one a con of “it tastes terrible, like even worse than GW washes”

When you forget to rinse your brush before putting a tip on it.

(This is why I use the crease of my hand.)

:nms:
The girls who used to paint radium onto clock and watch hands also used to put a tip on their brush with their lips

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




One thing to remember that mini paining is Art.

You aren't trying to perfectly replicate a photo (unless you are), you are trying to communicate an idea, or a feeling, or a story.

This goes with color choice, contrast, weathering, almost all decisions.

So it might make no sense for an army to go into battle in bright red camo, but sometime bright red just works right for an army so it's the correct artistic choice.

It's not wrong to weather a tank so that it's more rust than clean metal. It makes no logical sense, but if you want to give the feeling of an army that's on it's last legs or corrupted beyond belief it's the right thing to do.

Some people just like shiny and new looking. In fact now that I've typed that sentence, I'm going to make some minis that look like a propaganda poster some day.

Even if you are trying to replicate "real-world" conditions or work a real-world subject, scale is going to screw with things like details and color perception, so you will end up making the contrast "wrong" or putting details out of scale because otherwise they would be invisible, or weathering too much so that, even if it's "wrong" it will still look right.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Bristles up in a very old baby food jar

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Spanish Manlove posted:

xpost from the marine thread, i'm done with the squad! Other than bases which shouldn't be too bad.

I keep seeing color choices I love about that model. the head horn especially.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Floppychop posted:

I like Vallejo better than Citadel, and I avoid Army Painter like the plague. I know a lot like it but I seem to always get the paints with a cottage cheese consistency.

Vallejo has both "model color" and "game color" lines. Model color is more for the model kit hobbyists and match stuff like German Grey, Russian Green, French Blue, etc... Game Color is the line with brighter colors that they started for things like sci-fi and fantasy miniatures.

Note that the Vallejo model color, model air, and game colour all play nicely with each other and with GW’s various lines. My minis are usually a combination of whatever gives me what I need, and I’ve never had something reactivate or gum up on me.

Also they have Game Inks which smell like the old citadel inks. Which matters to me.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




I don't have an actual answer, but real gold leaf is not insanely expensive and could be burnished to the exact amount of polish you want.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Zuul the Cat posted:

Cross posting some DUCKS

Those ducks rule

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




As someone who wears a mask all day for work, I'm kinda on Badger's side here.

gently caress that poo poo, I'd rather stay home.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008





:jerkbag:

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Spanish Manlove posted:

i don't have an airbrush and I'll never get one, so I tried out drybrushing the value sketch before contrasts. It's phenomenal, I love this



apparently this was a common technique for oil paints. Do all your tones in black and white (cheap) and then add a little color on top (expensive)

I've been meaning to do exactly this soon.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUOZ4g4h0II

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Eej posted:

With hobby paints everything old is new again. Here's Marco Frisoni painting en grisaille and then going over it with contrast. Definitely something I wanna try sometime.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mt0oaltZ2IU

The more I play with speedpaints, the more it feels like this is going to be the most natural way to use them

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Good news everyone:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPLHZKPR9Bc

how to all the techniques.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




continue to play with Speedpaints.

re-activation is killing me.



Ignore Melty McMeltface in the back, Micro Gloss does not play well with speedpaints (brushed on)

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Spanish Manlove posted:





Finished up with my corsairs, time to slowly post photos of them. Apparently they're space pirates so of course they get beach bases and parrots. Used the goonhammer beach base idea to start with and simplified it for 28mm bases. Oh and the model is 90% contrast paint over a drybrushed zenithal. Some edge highlighting was done on some parts to make them pop a little more.

Space pirates.


That parrot needs a little helmet :ohdear:

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




War and Pieces posted:

Im messing around with the new batch of Contrast Paint (bad moon yellow) and I want to try zenithal priming. My problem is that I've already primed most my pieces with Velejjo's Yellow. Any suggestions?

Congrats, yellow is now your high level.

Spray dark green from below.


I have 0 idea if this would actually work.

edit: wait. Magenta or dark purple from below. duh.

edit edit: Having a Resin printer is awesome for this. Just grab some random fantasy mini, print it, and see what happens. 0.05mm layers goes pretty fast and makes a pretty good test mini.

Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Aug 2, 2022

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Harvey Mantaco posted:

Hitting a painting slump.
Don't know why.
Yall ever go from loving this stuff to looking at it all and being like "you couldn't pay me"

huh.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u5wx682jpTk

posted just for you I guess.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




The other 2 big problems with Elegoo printers are the default software (Chitubox) and their tank design.

The software is easy to fix, download and install the free version of Lychee Slicer and love life.


The tank is actually well designed except that it's intended for the FEP to be slack when you install it into the inside frame (it gets a lot tighter when you install the frame to the rest of the tank). And no one seems to know how slack is correct. I made a little jig out of a stack of foamcore from the factory installation, but I'm not sure if FEP stretches so my measurements are probably not that accurate since I took them after a ton of prints had been done on it. the good news is I suspect that there is a lot of leeway, since I've had mostly good luck with prints after replacing the FEP, but I always wonder if people who complain about an entire pack of FEP film leaking are just installing way too tight. Furthermore I think having perfect tension in your FEP layer would allow you to make smaller supports that are easier to remove.

At any rate I love my Mars 2 pro and would recommend Elegoo printers to anyone.

also, in response to people wondering if GW needs to respond to the availability of Resin printers, I have 2 points: Resin printers are far closer to hobby toy than appliance in terms of needing fiddling and troubleshooting, and the current crop of GW miniatures are all expensive and mono-pose, but are characterful, well detailed, and really easy to assemble and paint.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Indolent Bastard posted:

I'm still on Chitubox and having no issues. What makes Lychee better?


It's mostly workflow stuff. Note that I haven't touched Chitubox in years, but Lychee will flag STLs with flipped surfaces and holes (and sometimes can even fix them), has a decent (it works for me at least) auto-rotation and auto-support setup, really really good island detection, and I like the hollowing process.

It tries to use the cloud for printer setup, but honestly I always tweak it anyways, but it does allow you to setup different settings for resin type and color.

If Chitubox works I'm happy, but the last time I used it I think I had to place my own supports and I never knew if I was putting them in the right spot or the right size. I also trust Lychee more to flag potential problems that Chitubox just didn't seem to see.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




are you all using sponges on your wet palettes?

I'm just using a 3D printed rando one I found on Thingiverse, a triple-folded paper towel, and basic no-name kitchen parchment paper.

What am I missing out on?

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Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




punishedkissinger posted:

wet palettes cost like $15 why are people DIYing them?

Because I can DIY it right now and it would take a week or more to ship one to me.

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