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berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Avenging Dentist posted:

That's what's in my shopping cart now. Do you use the XTend It (you spray it in the bottles for parts A and B before you close them back up so moisture doesn't get trapped and gently caress up the resin)? Their site recommends it, but since I'm only getting the small size, I'm not sure it's worth grabbing XTend It too.
I have never had an issue with moisture, so no. I would recommend mold release spray - it will increase mold life for you.

And bubbles in resin are different than in plaster - you're usually doing a two sided mold with resin, so the bubbles can't rise to the top and get popped. Also, the working time of the resin is much shorter than the plaster, so there is a greater tendency for the bubbles to stay where they are.

I've got a vacuum casting/pressure pot setup, but you can also make a vibration table that will shake the bubbles to the surface.

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berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Related, Ebay also does 15% off and is free shipping. Sometimes you get roped by the "order now, and then we place the order with GW, so you wind up waiting two weeks" thing, but it usually isn't a big deal.

The great thing about Ebay though, is that they have started putting up 15% (or more) coupons out more frequently, bumping that sweet discount up to 27.5%.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

head58 posted:

Discount Games Inc (NOT “Discount Games” on eBay. Avoid them) bumps up the discount to 25% if you order more than $100 of GW stuff, and have free shipping over $30. The guy who runs DGI is awesome and I thoroughly endorse them if your local place doesn’t meet your needs.

Is this Doc?

bonds0097 posted:

And you're supporting a third world country.
Michigan?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

darnon posted:

Doc's Discount Games out of Ohio, frequently selling on eBay, is different. My experience there has been... spotty. Some orders have been fine and others took long times to ship to the point of needing to file eBay claims to get things moving.
Yeah, this is the Doc I was referring to. I never had a problem with him, though I moved on when GW set the discount limit at 15% - with shipping, it wasn't worth it anymore.

I think some of the smaller sellers now pull the eBay stunt where you order, and then they place the order with GW, and once it is received, you finally get your stuff. Doc's might be selling on spec and running into delays on GW's end and stuff like that always reflects poorly on the seller (which, in all fairness, it should.)

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

big_g posted:

Have some more progress pics on the Chieftains, going to wash and highlight the details next then probably matt and weather I think.







These are sweet.

Badablack posted:

On the plus side it’s not like GW threw away their thousand dollar steel molds for all the plastic tomb king kits they made...at least I hope not.
Nah, they didn't But it would be difficult for them to come back and admit they made a mistake. Also, they are obviously trying to phase out the old sculpts for AoS, so TK wouldn't have a place. Finally, if they brought back TK, they would have to bring back Bretonnia, because all of the neckbeards would have a hissyfit and declare a fatwa on GW.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

tehsid posted:



Nearly done! Just pants, highlighting and some more weathering to go!
I know Orks get darker as they get older and bigger, but I'll be damned if a paler skinned Ork doesn't look awesome as hell. Good job!

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Badablack posted:

The only weird thing about ork paintjobs for me is in every picture I see them painted with flesh colored lips. Shouldn’t they have some varying shade of green? Though I’m assuming it’s following human rules with green blood showing through skin, it’s an alien so who knows.

It's painted that way because it makes a nice contrast.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

S.J. posted:

This makes me wonder, because I've heard from a couple people IRL that their color sprays didn't keep well on metal models.

I've never had good luck with Army Painter sprays on metal models. I haven't tried it on plastic since it's a bit more difficult to strip paint from that versus metal.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Aniodia posted:

More Warmaster dudes.



...I know the fireball's a bit off, but I didn't realize until I'd already started that I didn't have much in the way of yellows, oranges or reds. :shrug: I mean, I could've gone with blue flame, but that may be for the other one I have like this.
Sup, Warmaster buddy.

The fireball looks good, don't sweat it.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
AP paints don't stick to metal well even if you've washed them, at least in my experience.

Also, "mold release" on metal models isn't a thing - oil based mold releases will break down rubber molds, so they use talc or similar powders to "lubricate" the molds. Resin models, however, definitely need to be washed both due to the oil based mold releases used with the silicone molds and the oils in the resin itself.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Conan the Librarian posted:

Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more?



I know there have been some very good points raised already, but Duncan did a speedpaint for the Orks in the Shokkjump Dragsta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70O5vi3IIuc&t=967s You might get a few tips from that as well.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Xuron talk: Is there any way to sharpen the blades up a bit? Mine seem to dull really quickly just cutting sprue.

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

I'd definitely recommend spending a bit more for something like these DSPIAE/Meng Nippers.

I used the Xurons for years, and they're fine, but I stepped up to the DSPIAE/Meng nippers recently and they're just worlds better. They cut things amazingly smoothly, and leave almost zero cutting damage or sprue nubs on your parts. Save so much time by reducing the need to clean up sprue nubs.
How's the longevity? I'd be concerned about the blade hitting that flat surface repeatedly.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003



Mikey Purp posted:

Finally found the time to finish up some models over Thanksgiving break.

Librarian Dreadnought:


:eyepop: So much good poo poo on the last couple of pages!

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Badablack posted:

I feel like the amount of detail on genestealer cultists belies them being a horde army.



These are nice - did you do them with mostly washes over white?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Hixson posted:

Crazy they used my titan with such large, out of scale, comic book like weathering to sell models

Probably in the "How not to paint your model" section on GW, right? Duncan just sadly shaking his head, as a single tear trails down his cheek?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

gradenko_2000 posted:

What can I do about (mostly) dried-out paint? My wife has a small pot of flesh-colored paint from her Paint By Numbers boxed kits that I'm using, and I've just been dabbing a little water on it to get some paint into the bristles and that kinda sorta works, but I'd like to know if there's anything particular I can do to salvage it truly.

You can try mixing airbrush medium or water in to reconstitute the paint, but once acrylic goes, it's gone.

Also, please don't tell us you're using Paint by Numbers paints for miniatures.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Max Wilco posted:

Yeah, I'd still consider myself a beginner painter. I've alternated between sticking to schemes and just doing whatever. I've got a mix of Citadel, Army Painter, and Vallejo paint. With the (still unfinished) project I was working on prior to this (a bunch of Warhammer Fantasy Chaos Warriors), I used a color matching chart to find the Vallejo colors that matched the Citadel colors (which I know aren't 1-to-1). I haven't noticed anything majorly different or special with Vallejo so far.

With Army Painter, the thing most people I've seen people agree on is that their shades/washes are really good (I bought a couple of those with Vallejo). With Citadel, I find that the Mephiston Red covers pretty well (compared to the red AP paint I was using), and I know some of their shades and texture paints are really good (though I think the jars can get knocked over real easily).


I still have a can of Citadel Grey spraypaint, which I could apply first. Additionally, I also got a can of Rustoleum 2x White Primer I got a month or two back; I haven't used it much, but that might work for a first coat.

The problem is that right now, I think it's too wet to spray anything. The weather I think has been my main deterrent in putting more work in on the miniatures. Apart from spray-painting, I don't think there's anywhere in my house where I can use the Tamiya plastic glue with proper ventilation. I have to work on it out in the shed, but most of the time when I get home, it's too dark, too cold, or too late for me to go out and work on anything.

I could look and see if there's a way for me to do it inside the house. If anything, I could just set up a fan in the window to blow air out, but I don't know if that would work properly.
In my personal experience, Army Painter paints tend to be gritty and I haven't had good luck with them.

As for your dread, if you are going to spray Mephiston Red from the rattlecan, you won't need a primer. The GW sprays are primers AND base paints.

You definitely don't want to be spraying inside the house. Do you have a garage or car port attached to the house?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

R0ckfish posted:

I finished up a mek gun:


I always love your Orks.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Duct Tape posted:

Finished up my goal for January just under the wire: Armiger Warglaive, 5x Sicarian Infiltrators, and 8x Crates.







Still not sure what will be my goal for February, as I've got a bunch of Adeptus Mechanicus sitting on spru. I might go for Kataphron Destroyers, as they are one of the few Admech units I don't have table-ready at the moment. On the other hand, I've got two Dragoons just calling out to me ...

Wow, these are great - that Armiger is menacing as hell.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Eifert Posting posted:

I'm honestly surprised I didn't throw my incepters in the garbage disposal.

Uh oh. Why is that? I'm going to be putting mine together soon.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Amazing work.

Mikey Purp posted:

Finished up my helverin and got him on that fancy urban ruin base I posted earlier in thread (thanks for the call out Zuul the Cat!). Thanks also to Skails for the awesome excoriator tutorials which I used for the bullet damage on the shoulder pads and impact damage on the shin guards.


This looks great! Been some drat nice Helverins posted lately...

Xenomrph posted:

Other than that, I’ve personally been buying Citadel paints from my local GW store. Like yeah I know I could get paints cheaper elsewhere, but my local store is super awesome and I don’t buy paints often, so I’m totally okay with throwing them a bone and paying a bit of a premium on paints.
Same. Bag on GW all you want, they really have got some very good paints. The pot design still sucks, but once you get them into droppers, they are a pleasure to work with.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Funzo posted:

Is there anywhere in the US to order these from? Shipping for a couple of brushes is almost the same as the cost of the brushes themselves.

Wind river arts is tree only place in the us, bit with their markup and shipping, it's only a couple of bucks difference.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Zev posted:

Any advice on using testors dullcote? I picked up a can to use on some finished models, but I don’t want to gently caress it up.

Just spray it on. It's the go-to for matte sealing, so you should be good to go. The only issue I've ever had is that if you don't shake the can up really well, you can get a glossier coat. If that happens, just let it dry, shake the hell out of your can, and spray again.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Just a quick FYI regardng "biodegradable" paint strippers - just because something says it's biodegradable or non-toxic, does not mean it's safe to dump down the drain. Biodegradable means it will break down into safe components over a six month period in soil - wastewater treatment usually takes about 24 hours, and is then dumped into your local waterway. The chemicals in the cleaners we use doesn't have time to break down to be safe, let alone whatever chemical change the paint is undergoing.

Soak your models, scrub them off, and when your stripper becomes unusable, just let it sit in the container and evaporate. Then dump the sludge into the trash. Either that or put it into a sealed container and bring it to your landfill on hazmat day.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Eifert Posting posted:

The hard sale was exceptionally dumb for this hobby, it's not like wargaming self-selects for gregarious social butterflies. The conversation should have always been: "Do you want to learn how to play? Any questions? Cool let me know."

Management was all about maximizing profits for the shareholders - the game was always secondary to the models.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

a witch posted:

I tried making a wet palette following the instructions in this video youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM and I'm not having much luck. No matter how little water I use, the paint separates almost immediately, it never stays pooled. Leaving it overnight makes it even worse. Is this just a matter of really carefully dialing in the amount of water?

I'm also trying a GW dry paint, and its... crumbly? I get that its much thicker than normal paints, but I'm having a hard time getting it into the bristles. I've tried 2 pots from 2 different stores (trying to avoid a bad batch) and they seem similar. Any amount of dry brushing it onto an actual miniature seems to leave powder/crumbs.

Some paints separate very quickly - you'll have to periodically mix the pant with your brush on the palette. Also, make sure your paints are shaken very well in the pot. Add a glass or hematite bead to the pot to help with agitating the paints.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

IPA Regulations posted:

Anyone got some recommendations for very compact work stations? My living situation is about to change and its almost certain I'll be trading down a lot in terms of personal space. Currently paint on a cheap, wide IKEA desk that also has my pc and a bunch of boxes/trays stacked alongside for storage but I'm probably going to have to figure out something more efficient soon. Something with an extendable surface or hinges/integrated shelves that roll out? Idk.

Ikea's got the Micke corner workstation. It's got a decent amount of storage space - no roll out shelves or anything, but it works well for a corner desk.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Doorknob Slobber posted:

when using a wet palette should there be standing water in the bottom of the container or should it all be absorbed by the pad?

Aside from a few droplets, all of your moisture should be in the sponge. You sponge should also not be sopping wet - kind of half-heartedly wring it out. You don't want it dripping, but you don't want it just damp either.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

I have this model in the blister, and I had no idea how much detail it had. Holy crap.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

everythingWasBees posted:

So the Patriot 105 is just... not on Amazon whatever reason. Did it get replaced with a newer model or something?
Going out on a limb here, but Badger is probably still backlogged from the birthday sale. Once they catch up, you'll see them show back up on Amazon.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Dayum, that's nice.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Marzipan Pig posted:

I miss painting armour. Big bits of metal. What cool models have you guys picked up/put on your wishlists recently that feature big suits of armour?

I have a couple of boxes of historical minis from a company I cant remember the name of, that I bought to practice on. Super excited to put those together and start painting them one exams are over :D

Stormcasts.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Grizzled Patriarch posted:

A long time ago I asked about a recommendation for a cheap lightbox, and someone also posted a site where you could print off the cool marbled-looking background sheets instead of just having plain black or white, but apparently I forgot to bookmark it. Anybody happen to have a link to that, or know what I'm talking about?

Maybe Massive Voodoo?

The synergy between the avatar image and post is amazing.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 13:34 on May 15, 2019

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Ghazk posted:

X-Post from the 30k thread! Since January I put together White Scars and Alpha Legion Heresy Armies inspired by the recent Malevolence book release featuring a large campaign pitting those forces against each other during the opening stages of the Horus Heresy.
Everything in that post is amazing. Holy crap.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Speckled Jim posted:

This is my first attempt at using a light box and i was hoping for some feedback and possibly some tips.



My setup is 3 LED lamps, sides and top, in a homemade box. Im limited to the camera on a galaxy s6.

That is cool as hell! What paint are you using there?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Cat Face Joe posted:

Reporting in to say white Stynylrez is not a good surface for the contrast paints.
Ah, drat. that's a bummer. Has anyone seen any reports over Krylon sprays?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Marzipan Pig posted:

How do contrast paints feel compared to washes? I don't have a need to get them myself based on how they're advertised but I've been looking at pics and scratching my head trying to work out what theyre doing that differentiates them from washes.

So peeps that have used them - how have you found them different in application or effect?

They are similar to a wash in that they tint the underlying coat. The difference is that your underlying coat with the Contrast paints is just a bare white/gray/bone color, instead of a "normal" paint. The Contrast primers are also pretty smooth, so the lack of surface tension means that the Contrast tends to flow to recesses, lightly tinting the highs and pooling in the lows. Washes tend to give more of an all-over tint (though they also tend to pool in the lows.)

I washed some Steel Legion years ago, visible in the background of this photo:


and I'm going to see what it looks like with Contrasts. It will also be interesting to see how much Contrast is used in the process - 10 Steel Legion took like three jars of brown.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
X-postin'.

95% finished my Garrek's Reavers


Contrasts on everything but the red and metallics. I'm pretty pleased for about two weeks of lunch break painting.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Thank you!

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berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003
Holy poo poo, that Warstore thing is loving crazy. Neal is a standup guy, and it really terrible that these two pieces of poo poo hosed him over like that. I wonder what account they were selling under and I hope I didn't accidentally contribute to those bastards.

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