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Bioshuffle posted:Those of you with fireplaces, how do you store your firewood? The cheapest outdoor wood storage is 2 (or 3 with a central one) cinder blocks, holes up, with PT 2x4s laid across and also stuck down into the holes to form the left and right sides. Then toss a tarp over it. Works surprisingly well, holds a lot, and can be moved around or whatever easily. I tend to only bring in what I plan to use for the night, because the wood pile will harbor a lot of insects. I have a small welded steel rack by my fireplace inside where I put wood. Don't store your wood outside against your wall either, keep it spaced away from your house because of aforementioned insects, but also mice.
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2020 16:46 |
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 00:03 |
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falz posted:Ah yes, that would be nice if they were 'fed' from that way, didn't think about that. I also totally neglected to mention that I want to put in pendant lights to replace them, not new can lights. You may be best to get an endoscope camera and drill a small hole to look around up there and see what you can see.
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# ¿ Nov 18, 2020 16:39 |
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devmd01 posted:
Complete with the requisite "gently caress it" bent nail.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2020 21:03 |
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DaveSauce posted:Ah, I see it now! Yeah, and it doesn't help with the perspective that those bricks are up on end.
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# ¿ Nov 20, 2020 21:04 |
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H110Hawk posted:Can you post a picture of your kitchen? Because uh, your utensil drawer. Drawer pull is exactly what I was thinking as well.
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2021 19:46 |
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Sirotan posted:Install a towel bar (that is shallow enough to not hit your oven door) in front of your sink and hang it there, imho: 100% this, although maybe on one of the drawers further to the right, or hell, put towels on all of them!
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# ¿ Jan 7, 2021 21:56 |
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If I ever had a drawer like that it would just have like two packets of 10 year old taco sauce in it. It's kinda weird to me that someone might accumulate enough single serving sauce packets to warrant a dedicated kitchen drawer honestly, but I'm sure I have a random collection of something that would be strange to other peeps so whatever.
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# ¿ Jan 9, 2021 19:01 |
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You'll need a way to dispose of all the debris. I don't know what good a hammer drill would be. A beefy sledgehammer and/or a concrete saw would be my weapons of choice. Knowing how long the path is and how deep the pad goes might change the suggestions.
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2021 22:42 |
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tater_salad posted:Calk or great stuff foam This. If you've never used great stuff, be warned that it expands quite a bit and is annoying to clean off stuff until it's cured. After that you can cut it with a sharp blade just like other foam though.
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2021 17:15 |
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Sirotan posted:I have a cinderblock foundation. Is just cutting it flush with the wall and slathering on some kind of waterproofing material too half-assed? You have a cinderblock foundation with a hole in it already for that pipe. You may be able to just free the pipe without cutting it, but you'll need to see what it looks like where it goes in.
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2021 18:04 |
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Can you just remove the ramp, and put it in the shed? Seems like you only really need the ramp to be there before a snowfall.
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# ¿ May 2, 2021 23:32 |
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Vintersorg posted:Can I just drill my new doorbell into the vinyl siding? I don't need a special bracket or anything? It's this little guy here: Looks like you can just stick it on the siding with the double sided tape.
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# ¿ Jun 4, 2021 17:51 |
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Y'all are crazy. I switched my kitchen, dining room, and office to Phillips daylight leds and it is a thousand times better than the Cree warm whites that were there before.
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2021 22:17 |
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skipdogg posted:Anyone have a good source for some quality 3K bulbs? I bought the 40 pack of FEIT bulbs from Costco about 3 years ago when we moved into my current home, and I have about 25 dead bulbs already out of those 40. I'm guessing I got a bad batch and will end up trying to warranty them, but honestly I'll pay a bit more not to deal with the hassle of changing the bulbs. My house is all either Cree or Phillips. I swapped them all to LED when I bought ~7 years ago, because the previous owner had CFL everywhere and they were garbage. (Flicker, slow to reach full brightness, inconsistent light temps, etc.) Out of the maybe 40 or so bulbs I put in then, I have had 1 Cree fail in the past 7 years, and it was in a fully enclosed housing despite the packaging explicitly saying not to use it in a fully enclosed housing. So while I don't know where to get a good deal on them, I've been very happy with both of those brands in terms of reliability.
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2021 15:21 |
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extravadanza posted:I had a raccoon get in my attic a few times and one of them was clever enough to find a way in between my 2nd and 1st floor and I could literally hear him scraping away under my closet. The joys of owning a box framed house. I've since closed up their entry point but they still manage to get in the eaves sometimes. The sight of a raccoons now makes me feel so much rage. This, but it's squirrels for me. They're all fine and cute and whatever out in the woods, but if they break into my house then it's war.
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# ¿ Jun 29, 2021 15:54 |
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Motronic posted:38 lbs is no big deal, but see my edit about the kinds of people you need to find to do this work. In the past I've used toggles in this scenario. Are these things better than toggles in some way? Both expand out behind the drywall.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2021 12:47 |
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Wallet posted:Assuming your television isn't an ancient CRT a reasonable number of most anchors should hold it fine in good drywall. Of course if you live in a really old house or something YMMV. I never expected to sit through a drywall anchor testing video, but that was great.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2021 15:07 |
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Is there a cast iron box in there that aligns with the doors? Or is it just a facing panel and the inside of the fireplace is otherwise unaltered?
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2021 18:22 |
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Ball Tazeman posted:I’m honestly feeling overwhelmed and way in over my head with the water damage. I really just don’t know where to start or what to do, or if we hire somebody, what kind of contractor would we hire? Also, do we even have the money for it? I guess I’ll ask the council of dads to look at the vent pipe and maybe if there is anything we can see from the basement. I’m just scared to see what the full extent is. Plus we have really weird walls that for some reason have full wood boards behind the drywall. Fixing that wall and flooring has been something I’ve been dreading but now know there is an active water leak makes it a higher priority. Sadly if there's an active leak the damage will only spread and get worse. Best to see what can be done as early as possible.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2021 16:13 |
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downout posted:We're having our basement finished. I wanted to pre-install tubing for cables/wires in the walls so if in the future I wanted to run cables for some reason it should be easy. Is this a dumb idea? Anyone seen something like this before? Running conduit when a wall is open is pretty standard. Tie a few strings to something fluffy and pull them through the conduit with a vacuum while you're at it. Then you can just pull your cables through later.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2021 00:09 |
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Also, mini excavators are fun as hell.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2021 15:03 |
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I decided when I bought my house to just never look too closely at the trim, and I've retained a lot of sanity due to that decision.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2021 21:54 |
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falz posted:I tried to understand the dew point once but failed. Air can hold more moisture when it's warmer. As the air cools, for a given amount of moisture in the air, eventually water will have to condense out because the air can't hold as much moisture anymore. The temperature where that happens is the dew point. Edit: ^^^^^ Yeah that
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2021 14:25 |
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Crossposting from the Tools thread: Having dealt with several broken bolts, I will say it's a pain in the rear end. From what you're describing I would probably try to drill out the center of the bolt, then get a small bolt extractor bit to bite in the hole I made. If that wasn't working I'd drill the entire thing out and re-tap the hole at a larger size. The hard part of doing this is getting the bit centered and straight. If you can take off the part and fixture it under a drill press it's pretty straightforward (with consumer grade bolts, I'm assuming these aren't hardened steel). If you have to do it by hand, go slow and be as careful as you can. Sometimes if you drill slightly off center you can get the bolt out and leave most of the thread intact and just stick another of the same bolt in, but that's more often a happy accident than anything else.
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# ¿ Oct 1, 2021 16:42 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Yes. Now featuring tiger mosquitoes, which are somehow slightly worse than the standard Culex erraticus and the three other species now draining mammals in your hometown. Yeah tiger mosquitoes are vile little bastards. More aggressive than the native ones and also active all day.
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# ¿ Oct 10, 2021 17:12 |
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Slanderer posted:my basement walls are primarily stone (which I think have a coating of cement, over which there is drylok paint), and I need to install some new shelving. the basement was partially waterproofed years before I owned the house to account for the deficiencies of fieldstone foundations, but I still get a bit of water during heavy rain (heavily exacerbated by my neighbor refusing to fix their gutters and ripping out the downspout extension, filling the alley between our houses with water) I would use a freestanding shelf, personally, rather than try to mount shelving to a parged stone wall.
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2021 17:20 |
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SpartanIvy posted:Well at this point we're not even sure there actually is a leak, and if there is it's very minor and I'm not in danger of exploding. We're keeping the gas off most of the time while we investigate. You can bubble test anywhere along the line that you might suspect?
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# ¿ Nov 8, 2021 23:08 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I dunno what CD stands for but I do know inflation also eats the value of your loan too. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Certificate_of_deposit
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# ¿ Nov 16, 2021 14:47 |
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falz posted:Does anyone know what this type of shower is called? I always just consider it 'european' since it has the bar and adjustable sprayer. I'm trying to find something from a reputable manufacturer but having issues finding one that: It's generally called a rainfall shower from my experience, although I don't know if there's a more specific term.
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# ¿ Jan 3, 2022 18:49 |
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It's a good start
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2022 23:30 |
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Inzombiac posted:Just clean the gutters and installed guards. I am a king, a god, a gorgeous monster beyond your comprehension. Until tomorrow at least.
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# ¿ Jan 8, 2022 01:50 |
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Toebone posted:It’s starting to get down to freezing temperatures overnight here. I’ve always shut off and drained garden hose bibs when winter rolls around. My house has those “frost proof” bibs, do they actually work as advertised or should I still be shutting them off for winter? The way those work is that the knob on the outside turns a long rod to close a valve that is not in the outside part of the faucet, but is actually at the indoor end of the fixture. If properly installed, the entire fixture will slope downwards slightly towards the outside, and the inside of it will be inside the foundation wall. The idea is that when you close the valve, any water inside the fixture will drain out to the outside (which requires that the hose has been disconnected.) So assuming that it's not below freezing inside the wall at the back of the fixture, that it was installed correctly, is long enough, and there's no hose connected, then yes it should work as advertised. Edit: Google "freeze proof hose bib diagram" and you'll get a few cross section images that will make what I said super clear.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2022 01:54 |
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For what it's worth I never shut off the water to my freeze proof hose bibs when I lived in Philadelphia, but I could see where they came into the house on the inside, and could also readily confirm that they were installed at a downward angle.
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2022 17:34 |
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Lovelyn posted:Just bought a house in WA! Haven't moved in yet and I want to rip out the grass and replace it with something that will require less maintenance and fewer resources. The Internet says clover - can I have a lawn of straight up clover or should I need to mix it with anything else? I'm not an expert on clover, but something to keep in mind if you intend to be on the lawn a lot is that clover doesn't take abuse as well as grass.
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# ¿ Jan 13, 2022 20:45 |
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I assume you checked for this already when you scouted outside, but do you have a deck or porch that it might be venting underneath?
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# ¿ Jan 14, 2022 01:18 |
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theflyingexecutive posted:No bueno, got a pinhole ~5 min after restarting everything. I would expect to have to drain it, cut out the section with the hole, then sharkbite or solder in a coupler, then refill it. There may be an easier fix, but that feels like the right fix to me.
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2022 23:17 |
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theflyingexecutive posted:Yeah I've had too many heartaches to believe JB would be that easy, I got the shark bite too and am working on that now. The pipe is installed too close to the masonry for a pipe cutter to work too! You can get some really low profile pipe cutters, not sure how small the one you're trying is.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2022 00:40 |
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theflyingexecutive posted:The sharkbite held. Also it turns out when you drain your boiler pipes, you introduce immense amounts of air into your system and your boiler keeps tripping because the pump can't deal with the air. Fortunately my pump didn't burn out and I learned how to flush my boiler. And, thanks to a video where the host repeatedly stressed how important it was to not run the overpressure valve without the drains open, I did not blow out that valve! Watching the temp on my thermostat creep up was exhilarating. Heh, yeah sorry I could have been more clear, but that's what I was talking about when I said drain, fix, refill. It's not particularly hard as you've discovered, just kind of annoying. If you haven't done so, you should bleed all the radiators, but I assume you did and that's how you flushed out the air.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2022 17:08 |
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theflyingexecutive posted:I bled the air from the air purge valve coming right off the boiler. Is it possible my radiators don't have bleed valves at all? They just seem like one continuous unbroken loop. I am still hearing bubbles moving room to room through the system (sounds like living in a toilet bowl lol). Will I need to re-bleed or is this the result of replacing all of the water in the system with city water and it will resolve itself? Side note: the expansion bladder seems to be functional. This is the video I used: https://youtu.be/voS7Url50M4 My experience is with old cast iron radiators, where there's air trapped up in the top of the thing and the most efficient way to bleed it is to just walk around and bleed each one individually from a little stem valve. If you've got more modern baseboard heaters I think there's less room for air to get really trapped in them and flushing it like this would work fine. That said, I think they are supposed to still have bleed valves anyway, under the housing somewhere.
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# ¿ Jan 27, 2022 22:37 |
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# ¿ May 13, 2024 00:03 |
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I like the new thread title.
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2022 06:18 |