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Well 14-50 outlet is most future proof. But assuming they run the appropriate sized wire, a hardwired wall charger can always be replaced with a 14-50 outlet easy enough.
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Jul 15, 2020 01:37
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Speaking of Regen.. The Volt (at least the Gen2) does this weird thing that if any of the tires slip even the tiniest bit, it immediately cuts regen out. It can be quite jarring when it occurs. At the end of the road I live on, there is always a little bit of loose gravel from a nearby gravel driveway. When I am slowing down there and any of the tires slip it immediately feels like the entire car lurches forward until the brake pads grab on.
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Jul 18, 2020 21:18
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Westy543 posted:A state where you can't even buy Teslas? I have no doubt that will be fixed soon now. A couple states with dealer
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Jul 23, 2020 16:17
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Secret Machine posted:Does anyone use their EV as an office too? I do highway construction inspection and Covid has really pushed us to work out of our cars for doing paperwork instead of a field office. I’m having a hard time finding power consumption rates for “idling” with just the HVAC system running. Well at least for my Gen 2 Volt... it depends on how hard the AC is running. The Volt has a variable speed compressor (as do most EVs I'd imagine), so it can speed and up slow down based on needed capacity. Going full tilt in MAX with fan speed maxed out it uses nearly 3kW according to the meter on the dash. As it approaches the temp set point the compressor and fans will slow down and the usage drops. I typically see it bounce between .5kW and 1kW at this stage. (the car rounds to the nearest 500watts and always shows a minimum of .5kW when turned on). I've left it on before for over an hour on a 85ish F day and it used just under 1kWh during that time period. For the heater it is a different story.. That will use 7kW full tilt and the battery heater can use another 2kW on its own if its running.
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Jul 23, 2020 17:02
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dialhforhero posted:This is what I also want to know but I am a bit surprised a dealer wont touch it. There are a couple specialty VW/Audi/BMW independent shops by me. I should ask if they will. It's the same with GM's electric offerings. If you have a Volt, Bolt, or Spark EV. Only certain dealer service departments will touch them. I think this also applies to some of their hybrid offerings.
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Jul 27, 2020 18:22
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PIZZA.BAT posted:I'd like more information on this because I know how tricky batteries are and it's hard to find actual information online to calm my nerves regarding them. So say your car is parked in a hot parking lot in the summer- will it start running an air conditioner or something to keep itself cool? A heater when the opposite is true and it's winter? How much juice does this take out of the battery while it's running and how long could a car sit on its own before it has to give up and allow the batteries to be damaged? How much power will it pull out of the wall to do the same? This is quite a loaded question. It really depends on the particular EV.. Tesla's will cool the battery, even when unplugged, if they start to get really really hot but will eventually stop once the battery reaches a low enough SoC%. But it won't do anything if its unplugged and really cold. The Bolt EV will supposedly cool the battery in extreme hot temperatures even when unplugged under basically the same parameters. Heat does damage, whereas cold doesn't. Hence why they follow this strategy. Pretty much every EV on the market, and even some PHEVs with active management will maintain battery temperature when plugged in. I see this with my '17 Volt... It tries to prevent the battery from dipping below 48F or so and it will turn the battery heater on occasionally while plugged in. I can see it happen with my power usage meter. It amounts to maybe an additional $1 per month or so in the winter. It will also run the A/C when plugged in to chil the battery in the summer if needed. Long term storage unplugged can be an issue, as it is with any car. For Volts anyways, GM recommends leaving it plugged in. Unless its going to be more than a couple months, then they recommend discharging to 50% and disconnecting the 12v battery to stop any vampire drain. Tesla's have a complete power down mode that shuts down everything for long term storage. Really... don't worry about it. Unless you have a Nissan Leaf. They famously don't have active cooling. And suffer badly because of it. Battery replacements are fairly common with them. They don't do well being fast charged a lot... or living in a hot climate for an extended period of time. This is not a trend seen with EVs that have active thermal management. stevewm fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 20:00
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PIZZA.BAT posted:So basically going out and about for the day and leaving it in the elements isn't going to drain the battery. It may take a bit of a hit but it's a small hit compared to the energy used for just driving in general Nope! Also remember that a battery is a very dense object thus with a lot of thermal mass. It can take quite some time for them to heat up or cool down from external influence.
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Jul 29, 2020 21:34
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My home is heated by a heat pump with resistive backup heat. When the backup heat is engaged, it alone pulls 10kW. The only thing that blows up in this case is my electric bill. Seriously though... Wouldn't TOU charging programs kinda fall apart once there are enough EVs? I mean if everyone is charging at night, then you are just creating another peak... In my state (Indiana), TOU programs are not currently allowed. Regulations were only recently changed (in 2018) to allow electric companies to install smart meters. I would imagine TOU will follow the distribution of smart meters. (my home was switched to one just months ago).
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Jul 30, 2020 14:28
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MrYenko posted:This is the occasional reminder that I know of at least one FAA facility that spent thousands of dollars (more probably multiple tens of thousands) installing L2 EV chargers, and immediately locked the breakers open to make sure no one “stole” (that is a word actually used in an email chain on the subject by a manager) $3 worth of electricity from the government. This situation has now existed for multiple years with no resolution, since not only can they not figure out how to meter the power, they can’t figure out how to accept payment either. They must not have consulted anyone, or done much if any research. There are companies out there with turnkey solutions to do just that. ChargePoint comes to mind.
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Jul 30, 2020 14:32
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Westy543 posted:Volkswagen is pretty much dropping dealerships for the ID. line. You order online, then pick a local dealership to get your car at. The dealership tells you how to drive it and does final inspections. Price is fixed afaik and they just get your signature on the physical paperwork. Dealer gets a pre-established cut from Volkswagen, no price adjustment allowed. This is exactly how Tesla gets around states that restrict direct sales. In those states, their locations are not called stores, but instead "galleries". Customers are directed online to order. But pick up the car at that location.
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Jul 30, 2020 16:52
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A TOU rate would have to be REALLY cheap for me to bite on it. As it stands my power averages between 9 and 11 cents per kWh depending on usage for the month. They use a scale based on consumption. The first 400kWh is billed at one rate, then next 400kWh at a slightly cheaper rate, and so on. With a poo poo ton of "riders" on top of it. If it wasn't for the riders and "delivery" charges it would probably be like 4-6 cents per kWh.
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Jul 30, 2020 21:41
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Depending on the failure mode of the 12v battery, it may not have been detectable.
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Aug 3, 2020 18:25
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Wibla posted:lifepo4 with the on-battery BMS hooked up to the computer in the car would solve this... but that's more expensive. There is one version of the Ioniq that does something like this. The 12v system is powered from a 12v pack made from the same cells as the main battery pack. But its seperated off in its own small compartment from the main pack. The dash has a button that can be held down to "jump" this smaller 12v pack from the main pack should it ever be dead for any reason. Fake edit: Found it! https://www.cars.com/articles/2017-hyundai-ioniq-what-does-this-button-do-1420695209640/ This page mentions it.
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Aug 3, 2020 18:55
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Godholio posted:Depends on the car. Volt does not charge unless the vehicle is on, and it charges the 12v off the traction battery. I don't know WHY it doesn't trickle charge/tend the 12v off shore power. Likely whoever engineered that particular part thought "well this is how it's always been done, why change?" This is also probably one of the reasons GM recommends unplugging the car and disconnecting the 12v battery if storing the car for more than a few months. If left plugged in for an extended period of time without being turned on, it will eventually drain the 12v. Supposedly the Bolt is the same way.
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Aug 5, 2020 00:21
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ClassH posted:The Bolt is not that way. Interesting.. I had just went off hearsay; obviously that was wrong.
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Aug 5, 2020 16:04
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Nidhg00670000 posted:IMO PHEVs are definitely a better environmental proposition than some people think. My Volt has worked out perfectly for me.. I only have charging at home (Level 2) But my normal commute is only about 15 miles roundtrip, so the Volt easily covers this year round. Just last week I put gas in it for the first time since February. 8 gallons lasted 6 months!
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Aug 24, 2020 20:50
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TheWevel posted:My Bolt is still in OnStar demo mode...I leased it in January. For awhile GM was giving 5 free years of "Basic" OnStar to Volts and Bolts upon purchase/lease. And it was transferable to new owners if you sold/traded in within the 5 year period. My 2017 Volt was one of those. I have "Basic Connectivity" until December 25, 2021. I get the remote keyfob, charging status, and car locator (which the basic plan is not supposed to have) for free. They don't have anything else on offer that I would ever think about paying for. They stopped doing this with the the 2019 Volts entirely I am pretty sure. And also the 2018+ Bolts.
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Aug 26, 2020 20:44
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Westy543 posted:Honestly, if $15/mo got me all the onstar features, that wouldn't be so bad. But that they want like $60 for all of them? That's goddamn outrageous. I play MMOs so I don't mind a sub for some features. The sell for me is in what features I get for it. Like Tesla's aren't so bad at $10/mo, and you can easily go without them. Yeah they have changed it multiple times :/ For some time 2018 Volt owners where being told it was not included, only a 3 month trial was... then it suddenly was. For several months the location feature was disabled, then they turned it back on. Worst of all only 1 out of 4 people you called at OnStar knew what the hell you where talking about. I had to go through this with mine. When my free trial of the "premium" package ran out, it completely quit working. I had to talk to a couple different people to get the Basic service I was supposed to have turned back on. Then in early 2019 it stopped working again. I had to call and have it re-enabled.
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Aug 26, 2020 21:12
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Zero One posted:the Sirius radio subscription was never deactivated. I had free access for several years until someone realized and one day just stopped. At my work, we used to use XM for our store music. We switched away from it years ago. The radios where unplugged before I called XM to shut them off. Most of them were sold on eBay. I saved one so we could use it at our new corp. office we where going to be moving into soon. When we moved into our new corp. office about a year later, I made the discovery that the one radio I didn't sell was still active! That was 11 years ago; to this day we still have free XM radio as our background music. I'm guessing XM/Sirius only sends the de-activation signal for a period of time. Since the radio was off and unplugged for a year, it never received that signal.
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Aug 27, 2020 16:02
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So I've floating the idea about getting a Bolt, possibly. Maybe... I've seen some cheap off-lease ones come up around the area. The dealer I bought my Volt from claimed to have a few Bolts on the lot. 3 new ones and 2 used ones. The new 2020 ones where 27k-28k They had a bunch of pictures of each one online, the under hood pictures showed they all had DCFC. (DCFC models have a large high voltage connector with 2 wires sticking out of the front of the power distribution box) I decided to run up there and take a look.. When I arrived I discovered ALL of the new ones where NOT equipped with DCFC.  Looking further, it appears the under-hood picture was identical on all of them.
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Aug 30, 2020 01:56
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Thanks to my mother, I know a Gen 2 Volt is limited to 95mph. Because she kept it pegged at this for a good portion of I-44 between O.K.C. and Tulsa. That was the first and last time she got to drive during that trip.
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Sep 2, 2020 19:24
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Stultus Maximus posted:so I can leave it in Sport mode and not give a poo poo because all the energy it uses will be free. All sport mode does is remap the throttle to be less linear, being heavier at the bottom end. Surprisingly it doesn't really make much of a difference on total energy usage over a charge. Unless you are doing a tire squealing jack-rabbit start on every take off. Here are some common things that I see new Volt owners get tripped up on. Some tips and tricks.. The EVSE that comes with the car is a 240v capable device with a 120v plug on it. You can make a simple adapter with bits from any hardware store to plug it into your 240v outlet of choice cutting charge times in half. Assuming you have a 240v outlet available. Its still limited to 12A on 240v (2.88kW), but it means a full charge in 5 hours instead of 10.5 on 120v/12A. 240v charging is a few more % efficient plug to battery as well. The 2017 has a 3.6kW (240v/16A) onboard charger, so if you get a EVSE capable of delivering at least this, charge times from a empty battery are just over 4 hours. ERDTT: "Engine Running Due To Temperature". By default the car is set to start and idle the gas engine when the temperature drops below 34 F. For 2017 models that can be changed to happen at 14 F instead (the "Deferred" setting). But it cannot be disabled. Engine Maintenance mode: If the gas engine has not started in ~6 weeks, the car will start and idle the engine for approx 10-15 minutes. It lets you defer this once. Fuel Maintenance Mode: The car keeps track of the average age of gas in the tank. As it approaches 1 year in age, it will force you to use it. You cannot defer this. Adding gas to the tank decreases the average age. Oil Life counter: The oil life counter goes by both time and how many hours the engine has run. If you basically never use the gas engine it will slowly drop down to 0 over a 2 year period. The 12v battery is a AGM type. The car is designed to accept and charge ONLY a AGM battery. If you ever have to replace it do not put a standard flooded cell lead acid in it! The EV range meter, or GOM/"Guess-O-Meter" as it is called, is based entirely on the driving efficiency of your last full charge. So depending on your driving style, weather, climate settings, etc.. it can vary a lot. Don't be alarmed! (many new Volt owners are!) Most of the EV part of the drive train including the battery is covered under a supplemental warranty called the "Voltec" warranty. This lasts for 100k miles or 8 years. Or 150k miles/10 years if the car was originally sold and currently registered in a "CARB" state. All 2017 Volts where sold with 5 free years of "OnStar Basic". This IS transferable to new owners. A 2017 Volt will still have some of this left. You can call OnStar to have it activated and transferred to your name. You may have to make a few attempts at this as OnStar reps are not always the smartest bunch. It helps if you call OnStar FROM the car by pushing the blue button. OnStar Basic gives you app access to see charging stats, tire pressures, GPS location, remote keyfob, etc.. Edit: Forgot about VoltStats! Once you get OnStar enabled, you can link your car to the VoltStats website. It polls OnStar once a day to get various stats about your energy efficiency and usage. Here is my VoltStats page: https://www.voltstats.net/Stats/Details/8980 Happy Volting! stevewm fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Sep 4, 2020 |
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Sep 4, 2020 03:44
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McStephenson posted:To be clear: this is a bunch of license plates taped/ratchet strapped in the car? No, this is one of the heat exchanger stacks. You can see the A/C refrigerant lines right to the left of it. Edit: Beaten several times over...
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Sep 9, 2020 01:22
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When I bought my Volt I told the guy before we even sat down that if there where any upsells, tacked on bullshit like warranties, paint protection, etc.. I walk. It appeared to have worked, they didn't even ask. I did have to sign the paper turning down the warranty, but they didn't ask about it. The "sales guy" had no idea what the car was, why it had a plug, etc... Just your typical dealers don't know PHEVs/EVs bullshit. (This same dealer currently has a lot full of 2020 Bolts ordered without DCFC, lol) They did get kinda pissy when I introduced some stacking discounts I had at the last moment and they had to cut another 1k off the price. The finance guy said "Wouldn't you just rather have a Malibu instead?" I like to feel I won against a dealership that day... Quite the different experience to when I bought my previous vehicle... They had tacked on about 3k in add-on junk and were not taking no for an answer until I stood up and walked out of the office. They removed it then, though in hindsight I shoulda just kept going just as a gently caress you to them. Assholes..... stevewm fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Sep 9, 2020 |
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Sep 9, 2020 21:48
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MrLogan posted:] Well... It is 2020. Might as well pile another thing on the poo poo train.
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Sep 15, 2020 23:34
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Beffer posted:US building regulations are mysterious. I see posts where people are talking about rewiring their own house without getting an electrician, and yet it takes months to get approval to stick solar on your roof. Its a giant patchwork.. Regulations vary depending on state, city, county, etc... In general its follow the most recent "NEC" issue (National Electric Code). But some jurisdictions add their own flavors/restrictions to that. DIY work is generally accepted and commonplace. My own community is covered by county level regulation. Which does not require permitting or inspection unless it is deemed "significant work". Like sub panel installations, panel replacements or service upgrades. Anything else is free-for-all.
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Sep 16, 2020 04:42
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Wow... glad I live in an area where power is cheap! My household averages 30-50kWh a day in summer and 50-80 in the winter. But the most expensive I have ever seen my electric is 11.5 cents per kWh, and that is with all the riders and fees they tack on included. Indiana regulatory rules do not allow for time of use power rates far as I know. (though they are coming, utilities got permission to install smart meters in late 2018) It is currently a tiered system based on usage. i.e. the first 500kWh are at one price, the next 400kWh after that are slightly cheaper, and so on. It generally costs a whole $1.10 to fully charge my Volt. But given my daily commute is only 15 miles roundtrip... It is more like 39 cents.
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Sep 17, 2020 15:25
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Westy543 posted:
At least for Bolts/Volts it seems the dealers only need to have at least one Level 2 charger and a trained tech. Because any GM dealer around here that services and sells Bolts or Volts, that is all they appear to have over any other GM dealer. Though some GM dealers carrying Bolts do have "Level 3 Lite" chargers that are 25kW CCS units.
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Sep 17, 2020 21:15
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I've been seeing them around 27-28k on lots around here (Southern Indiana). But stupidly many without DCFC. And there are no state rebates.
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Sep 18, 2020 18:26
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Grrr... so tempted. They have definitely changed the seats though at some point.. I sat in one of the first production 2017s at a Drive Electric event, and it was terrible. But the 2018 I drove (built late 2017) was different. At least I didn't feel like I was going to fall off it.
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Sep 26, 2020 02:19
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:What's this? I'm not familiar with a common MCU failure mode on model 3s. Is this with the v2.5 hardware? There isn't as far as I know.. I believe they are referring to the failures of the original MCU1 in the S which are due to the flash chip wearing out. But this a problem that is going to affect any vehicle using a touch screen for controls, which more and more are moving towards. If the screen dies you are screwed until it is replaced.
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Sep 28, 2020 17:01
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An EVSE with a 14-30 plug would be limited to 24A. (continuous loads are limited to 80% of the circuit rating). 14-50 EVSEs are going to be limited to 40A. (which is why 7.2kW plugin EVSEs always have a 6-50 or 14-50 plug on them) Any electrician might refuse to add a circuit to an ancient fuse box... In addition, your own locality might require it to be replaced with a modern sub panel with circuit breakers. Many have rules saying that old infrastructure cannot be added to or modified. Only used as is. You would have to consult with a electrician familiar with your area.
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Oct 12, 2020 19:34
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:
As for EVSEs those are all fine choices. There are plenty of choices on Amazon though.... As for reliability, there honestly isn't much to a EVSE... Not a whole lot to go wrong at all. Pick one with good reviews, and you'll be fine.
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Oct 13, 2020 13:23
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Welp finally got new tires for the Volt... still had the factory set on 58k miles! Needless to say they where.... ummm "broken in". Bought them through work at cost and didn't get low rolling resistance tires because I am a cheap bastard. Will be interesting to see how much of a difference it makes. Though it will be hard to tell since it's getting cold now and that always means a range hit anyways.
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Oct 16, 2020 20:24
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Did anyone else catch that they put a US flag on the door trim? They specifically focus on it in the video.. AMERICA!!!!!!
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Oct 22, 2020 14:10
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Darchangel posted:Pretty sure that's part of the "Lunar" theme on the Edition 1, along with the spacesuit bootprints, and Apollo 11 landing site map. Ah.. I only watched the video and didn't see anything else about it. Didn't realize they had it themed.
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Oct 22, 2020 18:23
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Shamino posted:The one guy was very concerned that having an electric car would add hundreds of dollars a month to his electric bill. This is pretty common. Many people have absolutely no frame of reference on the true cost of electricity. But also depending on where you live and your rates, it could have some partial truth to it. A related crazy family anecdote: One of my cousins used to unplug her electric stove and microwave when she was done using it. She was convinced the LED clock display gobled untold amounts of power. It added a whole $10-$20 per month to my electric bill, depending on how much I drive.
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Oct 26, 2020 16:54
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RZA Encryption posted:Same, but instead of a g-wagen I want weird cars like a suzuki samurai or a toyota century. I would think some of them would be a nightmare.. Older British luxury vehicles tend to have a lot of motor driven hydraulic systems, which is the cause of some of those expensive repairs. Like suspension, brakes (not always a traditional assisted brake setup), windows (some Rolls have hydraulic windows!), etc. It could be challenging to get all that working in a conversion scenario.
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Nov 5, 2020 22:22
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Godholio posted:To be fair, GM didn't advertise the capability at all. Clipper Creek made them, and GM just sold them as portable 120v EVSEs. I'm not sure who figured it out, but a couple people took them apart and found out that yeah they're well-built and designed for 120 or 240. There were a couple of years of testimonials online before I made my adapter and tried it out (after verifying part numbers). From what I can tell, it originated on the GM Volt forums. Some models of the EVSE included with the Gen 1 Volt where also dual voltage, but not auto switching. You have to change a jumper inside the unit. It was quickly discovered the Gen 2 unit was dual voltage out of the box; the PCB is actually labeled for it. This was further confirmed when the Euro version of the Bolt shipped with the same exact EVSE with just a different plug on it.
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Nov 16, 2020 15:11
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Elviscat posted:
There is a proposal to extend the super simple J1772 "protocol" with the same complex PLC communication that CCS uses. For the purpose of enabling 2-way communication and control.
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Nov 16, 2020 15:18
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