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Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I paid $1200 for a 3070ti in December, and I have not seen any significantly better deals here since then :smith:

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Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Might be worth mentioning that I'm in Norway, things are still dire here :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Figure out the max inaudible rpm and try to stay under it?

It's usually a hockey stick fan profile, relatively low rpm until temps increase "too much".

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Suspect A posted:

I love 5.25 and 3.5" drive bays and I'm angry they're disappearing 😡💢:argh:

The 00s called and wants their ugly computers back :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Brooks Cracktackle posted:

So I'm finally in a position to replace my 2500k with something made in the last decade.

Is there a good tool for doing comparatives for motherboards? I've basically decided Z690 chipset, but of course every manufacturer and their mom has like 6 different versions of this and they're all different. Or maybe someone just straight up knows the answer to what I'm looking for:

Z690 chipset
Must haves:
DDR5 support with 4 DIMMs
A decent number of USB ports on the IO panel (ie. more than like, 6)
I guess a bunch of SATA ports?
Some m.2 would be nice I guess

Nice to haves:
Onboard bluetooth

Don't give a poo poo abouts:
Onboard wireless

I'd take a step back and look at what you intend to use this system for. IMO DDR5 is still too expensive for what you get.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

You can get decent 34" UW monitors relatively cheap at this point, though?

I went with 38" + 34" (both bought used!) on a stand, with 27"s flanking the centre monitors in portrait and my only regret is not doing it sooner...

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Imgbox is not a recommended image host unless it's already NSFW :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Shumagorath posted:

Yeah I even looked at Antec out of morbid curiosity after having a P182 two PCs ago. Corsair are still making the 600T with the proprietary thin 200mm fans and mandatory white LEDs that I somehow slept across from for over five years.

The P182 was a pretty good case for its time. I had one with nexus fans etc for 12 years, that case started with a C2D E6600 and ended with a Ryzen 3700X :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I paid $1200 for a 3070ti in December, these prices are depressing :v:

I wonder how the new Intel gpus will affect the market, though...

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

grack posted:

Simpler solution: Attach the cooler before installing the motherboard in the case.

Adding to that, if you have a modular PSU: connect the EPS cables before putting the motherboard in too, lead those cables through the cutout in the case as you put the motherboard in.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Alchenar posted:

Is there a thread view on the Fractal Design 7 vs Meshify 2? The Meshify is supposedly better for airflow for obvious reasons but the temperature benchmarks I'm looking at don't seem to indicate there' actually much difference.

Check out the Torrent instead of the Meshify 2. Computer Jesus has a pretty good review on it.

I am very happy with my Define 7 build, but I spent quite a bit of time tuning fan curves so that it is essentially inaudible at idle or low load.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Alkydere posted:

Yes, yes, I know solid state drives are the hot new thing, but I was going with what I knew and honestly just wanted this thing to work :v:

Do not build a system without an SSD in TYOOL 2022.

You can literally get a 500GB PCIe 4.0 drive for less than $100

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Shumagorath posted:

Does anyone have a set of fan curves they like with the Torrent in Asus Qfan, Argus, or the fan control app of your choice? I haven't paid for Argus yet (nor am I keen to given the non-perpetual license) so anything that does hysteresis is good with me provided I can avoid Ai Suite. I've never done "thermal emergency" step curves / steep slopes but I'd be willing to try if it's not going to fry my fans or chips.

E: should probably specify... the case fans spin down almost immediately if I alt-tab out of Cyberpunk so I think I'm being too aggressive by pegging the 180mms to the CPU and the 140mms to the GPU hotspot. I'm probably limited by the Noctua DH-15S and EVGA FTW3 coolers more than the case fans.

CPU fan is on BIOS control out of paranoia, but it's also the only one I can get to completely stop if I switch it over to Argus.

Tuning case fans is a process, usually involving a fair bit of trial and error.

Jayztwocents has a video about a new open source fan control software that might be worth looking at. Phone posting atm so don't have a link.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Yeah, it will most likely be fine. Be mindful of your Windows license.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Raqqa Flocka Flame posted:

So I have no experience building a PC, but I just finished my engineering degree, and my decade old ThinkPad wasn't cutting it when I had to run the ANSYS Workbench or PTC Creo modeling software. My only understanding is that I should ideally have a CPU and motherboard that's compatible with ECC RAM, and a beefy GPU. Except for the price (but I think I can get the CPU, GPU and motherboard used for <$1k) is there anything absurd about this build I should reconsider?

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Threadripper 1950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($689.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9 TR4-SP3 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock X399M Taichi Micro ATX sTR4 Motherboard ($391.31 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-2666 CL19 Memory
Storage: Western Digital WD_Black SN850 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Black 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($142.63 @ Amazon)
Video Card: PNY Quadro K6000 12 GB Video Card ($799.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Focus G Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($68.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($132.31 @ Amazon)
Total: $2390.15
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-05-05 18:54 EDT-0400

You can get AM4 motherboards with ECC support. I would avoid buying an old threadripper.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

It's not an issue, no :sun:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Don't buy a KF CPU unless you have a very specific use case and know what you're doing :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Don't get a 12400F, you lose the iGPU and QuickSync (very decent HW transcoding support) which is pretty much a prerequisite for PLEX (imo).

Also, as a general rule, don't buy an -F cpu from intel.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I ran a bunch of drives off an m1015 SAS HBA through an ebay-special HP expander for years without any issues.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Assembling a PC from parts is easier than building LEGO, gently caress buying prebuilt now that pricing is starting to normalize on GPUs and such.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

GiantRockFromSpace posted:

Good idea, I'd have to check. But given the state of the market I'm not sure I'd find one with a 3080 on stock, but I can still try.

As an addenum, what do you guys usually do when moving stuff from an old PC to a new one? I was planning to move the stuff I want to keep to an external HD (that I can use then as a backup) and then to the new PC; and reinstalling the programs I use. But I was wondering about stuff like AppData or things like that that aren't as obvious. And I'm not keen on doing like a full transfer copy even if possible both for the risk I transfer hidden malware and because it'd be a good way to throw out programs I never use.

I just transplanted all my drives over and booted from my existing windows install, had zero issues :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Sanctum posted:

I'm getting two red POST lights for BOOT and for DRAM.

Edit
Reseated RAM
Only the VGA red light is on now. I don't have a gpu but my monitor is connected to the motherboard, shouldn't the CPU be able to act as a gpu?

You bought a cpu without an igpu.
Congrats :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Twerk from Home posted:

What's the problem with the business machine divisions, and what actually breaks?

I was planning on getting a boring Dell micro desktop for the next iteration of my home server. I've had a lot of prebuilts over the years, and have found that Dell / HP / Lenovo stuff is much better put together than the no-name junk on Aliexpress, like the Beelink I recently bought. The only thing that's really wrong with the no-name off brand junk tends to be bad thermals and noisy fans, I haven't actually had any complaints with Dell Optiplexes or Lenovo Thinkstations.

Edit: If anything, I've been impressed by overall power efficiency when kill-a-watt-ing them and comparing to my homebuilts. Some part of this has gotta be that they're all on 12V-Only power supplies, which are just starting to exist in the homebuilt market.

I'm going to assume he's referring to normal sized towers built, not (u)SFF's.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend an uSFF for 2D/productivity only use, and I have a lenovo m93p running proxmox in my apartment, it sips power and makes zero noise.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Reset to optimised defaults and try updating the BIOS again?

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I guess they bought a Sony mirrorless that does 4K or something :iiam:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Pablo Bluth posted:

There's the Define R7 (the version with the window....) which can a bunch of drives. But airflow seems less than idea.

You can put 3x140mm fans in the front of the Define 7, it'll be fine for 8 harddrives :v:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Lazyhound posted:

I installed new fans in my Meshify 2, but for some reason the bottommost of the three front 140mm fans won’t fully spin up. It does lone slow rotation, stops, then slowly rotates again, over and over. It’s in a chain of three PWM fans hanging off a single motherboard header, but it should be able to put out enough power to handle that?

Doesn't the Meshify 2 have a powered fan hub?

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

If you're trying to upgrade on a budget, it's hard to go wrong with a £150 5600 heh.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

With GPU prices dropping, there is IMO no reason to even consider a prebuilt from one of the big names. Build your own or have someone build it for you based on specs recommended in this thread.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Let's hope the next AMD release is good enough to compete on price/performance.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

This is not the case. You are incorrect.

It’s mostly fine if you’re replacing only the CPU, but if you’re switching motherboard and CPU, you’re looking at a whole host of new drivers, new chipset, etc.

This isn't worth having an argument about, really, but you are wrong here. Windows has handled CPU/motherboard changes quite gracefully since Win7 and it's mostly painless on Win10 and 11 as long as you have a digital license tied to a MS account.

Drivers are not an issue, you install them on first boot (it might take several reboots to get everything set up properly). Pro tip is to download them before you swap over, in case the NIC isn't supported (very rare these days).

Microsoft even has a handy article describing the steps you (might) need to take when you replace the motherboard.

Here's another answer that goes into more detail.

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

My guess is there’s some kind of sensor being misread because if incorrect drivers, and when you launch an actual monitoring program it’s correcting for the moment.

OP: I would uninstall any tools like ai suite, speedfan etc that might be mucking things up, and check the fan profile in BIOS.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Wifi Toilet posted:

e: is there such a thing as an adapter to let you plug an nvme card into a sata port?

No, but you can use a pcie adapter card for NVMe.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

MarcusSA posted:

Most recommendations I’ve read that you typically wouldn’t need to think about it till it starts getting to the 10 year mark.

If it’s functioning fine and you don’t need to upgrade I wouldn’t even bother.

My corsair hx520s started dying after 8-9 years of continuous use, so this tracks.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

What was wrong?

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Martman posted:

kinda prefer just not having one there. Is that a problem?

Nope :sun:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

If you put your user data on a separate partition, you can nuke the OS without losing everything (or having to restore from backup).

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I don't like the case (personal preference).

Consider 32GB ram instead of 16GB, other than that I don't really see any real issues with the setup.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

If you're paranoid about used parts, run memtest86 overnight.

Cinebench R23 for 30 minutes while checking temps, Furmark maybe?

I rebuilt my sister's PC over Christmas, bad photos attached:

Before: i5-6400, 16GB ram, 120GB SSD, AMD HD5870 and cobwebs

After: Ryzen 5600G, 16GB ram, 500GB NVMe, GTX 1660 Super
CPU and RAM came out of a HP prebuilt I bought cheap used, I bought a new cooler and 500GB NVMe since the 256GB NVMe from the prebuilt looked sketchy (no DRAM, bad performance), and I wanted to avoid "Wibla, my PC is sloooooooooow" complaints that usually crop up when I don't have time to deal with it.
Stress testing consisted of running Cinebench R23 to see how it fared with the poo poo ram from the HP :haw:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Insurrectionist posted:

Thanks for the quick reply! I think I'll stick to the 6700 and save the $50 for a future upgrade instead. Should I place any importance on manufacturer or the like? The cheapest available is PowerColor at $465 and not factory overclocked, the next one is MSI overclocked but coming in at $520 which is a fairly steep step up.

E: Here are the cards on PCPartPicker with the exact models: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/3RkWGX,c3RYcf/

What else have you figured out so far? 18k NOK makes for some compromises, especially when you include peripherals/monitors.

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Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Insurrectionist posted:

I'm looking at RAM atm since I'll want to know how many slots I'm using to decide on the motherboard - ideally I want space for upgrades, in which case to stick with MicroATX I'll need 2x16 single channel. Currently got my eyes on https://www.proshop.no/RAM/GSkill-RipjawsV-DDR4-3200-C16-DC-32GB/2530697 though which seems to be dual channel and presumably take up all 4 slots (unless it means dual channel total), but the price/performance looks like a nice sweet spot. Looking around I'm not sure whether 3200/C16 or 3600/C18 is gonna perform better though.

I'd be sceptical about stuff that is listed as "bestillingsvare", do not assume that they will actually get those parts in any reasonable timeframe. this is the ram I run in my Ryzen rig, and it's in stock. Dual channel is two or four sticks, so 2x16 is just fine.

Insurrectionist posted:

E: To be honest though I don't think I'm on the way to making anything near an 18k NOK build atm, so one I have a decent build idea down I might look to upgrade a few components based on my remaining budget as well.

Get a decent NVMe system drive, that's my #1 recommendation. 1TB PCIe Gen4 is a good spot to aim for.

Wibla fucked around with this message at 13:46 on Jan 7, 2023

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