|
When I did that I just replaced the coil entirely. IIRC replacement coils were $20-30 each at Lowes. I thought about it and figured that there was no way of cleaning it that wouldn't result in me breathing melted plastic fumes the next time I used it, and I'd rather pay the idiot tax than do that, especially because that house didn't have a real range vent, just a fan with a lovely filter.
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2020 09:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 23:44 |
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:At least in my experience they all just slowly leak bar and chain oil all the time. Sometimes this is because of pressure differentials. Air becomes more dense as temperatures drop at night, and as the as the air/oil in the oil chamber contracts more air is drawn in through a one-way valve that's there to let air into the chamber during saw operation. During the heat of the day this air expands. Since the air can't escape back out through the valve the pressure in the oil chamber increases and eventually it equalizes by forcing out a small amount of oil. This repeats with each cycle of heating and cooling until your saw is sitting in a puddle of oil. If this is the cause of the leaking, you can sometimes avoid it by storing the saw with the oil cap facing upwards and cracking the cap to vent the oil chamber. However, in my experience what really happens when you try this is that you dump oil all over the garage floor the next time you go to use the saw because you are a dumbass who forgot to retighten the oil cap.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2021 05:34
|
|
|
For the sanding I'd clamp it down to something sturdy so it doesn't move, and then use a sanding block to sand away the excess. If you're careful to keep the sanding block flat against the edge of the piece and use even pressure, you should be able to avoid rounding down the edges. If you don't have a sanding block you can just wrap a bit of sandpaper around a hand-sized flat piece of scrap 2x4 and sand with that. Go slow and be sure you're got the block flat when you're sanding, because rocking it side to side will absolutely ruin your sharp corners.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2021 05:50
|
|
|
I need to put up some simple shelves in the laundry room. How can I tell where the electrical wiring is before I discover it with the drill? The voltage detection function on the studfinder isn't showing me anything, and neither is a voltage pen, but I'm wondering if that's operator error because I'm pretty sure there's something back there.
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2021 20:29
|
|
|
Khizan posted:I need to put up some simple shelves in the laundry room. How can I tell where the electrical wiring is before I discover it with the drill? The voltage detection function on the studfinder isn't showing me anything, and neither is a voltage pen, but I'm wondering if that's operator error because I'm pretty sure there's something back there. So after replacing the battery in the studfinder (  ) it started picking up wiring right where I thought it would be for the 110V outlet the washing machine is plugged into. However, it's not picking up anything near where I think the wiring should be for the 220V outlet for the dryer. The outlets are separated by a couple of stud bays, so I'm fairly sure they're not running down the same stud. After looking up the direction sheet for the studfinder(Zircon i520), it says that it is "intended only for use with an optimum voltage range of 110–127 V", so I'm wondering if it's just not picking up the 220V. How do I go about finding 220V wires behind the drywall? I've got a cheap borescope somewhere around here, do I just drill a hole through the drywall and take a look?
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2021 22:45
|
|
|
GWBBQ posted:Also, is a light switch to power the dishwasher on and off something normal or is my place weird? My guess is that it is plugged in to the socket intended for a garbage disposal.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2021 23:22
|
|
|
I need to replace the locks on my mother's house. My dad replaced them last ~18 years ago or so with the cheapest Kwikset ones they had at Home Depot, and they've just about stopped working properly. I know how to replace them as far as removing the old ones and installing the new ones, but I'm unsure about what locks I should be replacing them with. What brand should I go with? Is it worth getting them rekeyed at a locksmith to avoid having the same key as everybody else who bought from Home Depot that month? If you stick with the original keys, how do you buy three deadbolt+handle sets that use the same key? Any advice on the subject would be welcome.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 8, 2021 05:51
|
|
|
Jerk McJerkface posted:you should really have a box wrench that fits. The pliers will always be a risk. This is one of the cases where I think an adjustable wrench works best, because you can pad the jaws/nut without worrying about sizing. I like to use strips of those little rubber things people use for opening jars because it grips nicely even on stuff that's polished smooth.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2021 21:14
|
|
|
Jerk McJerkface posted:A correctly fitting box wrench shouldn't scuff at all, right? I like to avoid metal-on-metal contact with display parts like that when I can. It takes a little more time, but I think it's worth it to be sure that I'm not going to gently caress up the finish.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2021 22:34
|
|
|
Did you check the outside vent? When this happened to my sister's dryer the culprit was a bird's nest in the outside vent.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2021 02:38
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, I have one of those. Unfortunately, it doesn't help my dog; he reacts by basically getting paralyzed, aside from the fear trembling because of the fireworks. I'd just move the crate to a room with no exterior walls, if you have one, and drape the crate in the towels.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2021 19:44
|
|
|
Is there any reason it has to be rope and glue? I feel like there has to be an easier way to get the effect you want.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 6, 2021 10:15
|
|
|
Dry erase markers work because the solvent in the ink is alcohol, you can just use rubbing alcohol to get the same effect. I use dry erase markers for small areas and a rag and rubbing alcohol for larger ones.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 15, 2021 20:48
|
|
|
I'd try wrapping it in a layer or two of those rubber grippy things people use to help open jars and then hit it with the channel locks, probably. The grippy things should both protect the faucet from the pliers and help the pliers get a grip.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2021 09:02
|
|
|
The half mask respirator with the cartridges will work better while being a million times more comfortable than some disposable n95, and the cartridges are pretty reasonably priced for the use you get out of them. If you will use it with any regularity at all go with the half mask imo.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2021 19:30
|
|
|
L0cke17 posted:Found a small patch of poison ivy hidden in some shrubbery. My dad used to swear by the poison ivy specific Roundup formulation, but I have never used it personally.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2021 04:45
|
|
|
D34THROW posted:a couple are the size of a doorknob (lovely doorstops + rough kids). When I had a similar problem I ended up just slapping one of these over the doorknob holes. It's not the perfectly correct fix but it's fast and easy and durable, and it looks decent without having to deal with matching paint on the patched area. I'll fix it for real the next time that room gets painted. EDIT: I just realized I linked the smaller version, but I think I actually went with the 5 inch version. Khizan fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Dec 14, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Dec 14, 2021 22:20
|
|
|
I'd probably just use a lovely old kitchen knife.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2022 18:53
|
|
|
CRUSTY MINGE posted:Which thread is where I would ask about electric fencing? Just need to rope off about a quarter acre this spring, maybe 500 feet in total length, thinking 12v system, tall enough to keep out the possible stray cow or horse, but mostly deer and rabbit are the concern. If deer are the main concern the fence is gonna have to be at least six feet tall anyways. They'll clear a four foot fence from a standing start without any effort at all, and most adult deer barely have to work at clearing a five footer. They also probably won't care if the fence is electric because they're going to clear the fence without ever touching it unless they gently caress up their jump. If you've got something in there that they want pretty badly, like a vegetable garden or the like, you may have to go up to seven feet.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 13, 2022 09:09
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Melamine foam (i.e magic eraser) is great also to buy in big packs for cleaning sinks and other things. Just don't buy a brand name because it's like $6 for one as opposed to $20 for 50. Also, wear gloves when you use these. They look like sponges, but they're abrasive and you can drat near sand your loving fingerprints off if you're not careful. It suuuuuucks.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2022 08:22
|
|
|
Beef Of Ages posted:No telling what could be lodged in there, especially if you have kids. Or if anybody who has ever lived in that house has had kids, or if kids have ever visited it. I pulled a tiny travel toothbrush out of the one in my mom's house last year, and the dentist out there stopped giving those away like 15 years ago.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2022 21:23
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:edit: id' recommend any homeowner to buy a $30 or so endoscope so you can shove it down pipes or whatever to see wtf is going on. Or drill small 1 inch holes to see what's going on behind a wall isntead of opening it up etc. Remember that if you do this in an exterior facing wall you're just going to see insulation. 
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2022 22:02
|
|
|
empty baggie posted:I’m about to replace a toilet. I’ve had a dump trailer at the house for other reasons but figure I should load the old toilet while the trailer is here. I’m looking for recommendations on what to cap the pipe with for hopefully not long but maybe a week or two until I purchase a new one. If you haven't removed it already, use this stuff when you do: https://www.homedepot.com/p/OATEY-Liquilock-6-oz-Toilet-Water-Solidifier-Gel-31419/202882917 So much easier than trying to shopvac the water out of the S-trap.
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2022 06:14
|
|
|
When my the fluorescent lights in my mom’s house started to go it was cheaper to have an electrician come out and bypass/remove the ballasts than it was to buy new fixtures.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2022 00:53
|
|
|
And if the plastic's really smooth give it a bit of a scuff with some fine sandpaper first.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 26, 2022 19:03
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Another part of the problem is that a 4 1/2" wheel on an angle grinder only has a bit over an inch of cutting depth before you're up against the arbor, so you'll be deeeeeep into that slot with just the bottom of the wheel getting through, with loads and loads of friction working against you. If it’s only got an inch and change of cut depth it won’t even reach all the way through the plate once it wears down a bit.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2022 04:58
|
|
|
Big plastic tub(s) with a chemical dehydrator like damp rid or silica gel, maybe? It would require the least space of anything I can think of.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2022 08:30
|
|
|
Yeah, even after 15+ years of south Texas sun the Hardie siding on my mother's house still looks brand new after a power washing.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2023 21:26
|
|
|
I’d rather rent a Home Depot truck for $20 and learn to hang drywall than deal with repairing that wall.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2023 20:02
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 13, 2024 23:44 |
|
|
Yeah, I’d be real tempted to flush cut it and fill it in.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 21, 2024 21:15
|
|