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What is your current draw? Both startup and average. This will determine the minimum capacity of the generator you'll need, which is the starting point for comparing cost/benefits. It should be listed on your equipment.
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Oct 22, 2013 15:23
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duck hunt posted:According to my manual, the machine will draw 34A under load. I'm using a Thermal Arc 185 inverter. That's almost 10k watts, so you're looking at a $2000 generator on the cheap end (homeowner line Generac). The pro line stuff is going to be more like $3k which would be highly advisable for something that's going to be drawing nearly full capacity so frequently. And you're talking about a 300 lb genset. It also wouldn't be a bad idea to look into 15k models so you have some overhead. Doable, but that all really depends on your budget.
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Oct 25, 2013 20:26
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kafkasgoldfish posted:How'd you get 10K watts? According to the Amazon page it'll do a max 27 volts @ 185 amps. That's closer to 5000 watts? That's output. He said it DRAWS 34 amps. At 240 volts that's 8160 watts. Pad for startup inrush. You're at 10k.
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Oct 25, 2013 23:19
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jvick posted:I just learned to weld this summer on both mig and flux core. In my opinion mig welding is hands down a much easier and cleaner way to weld. Not to mention I feel I have more control with the mig. A small bottle of CO2/Ar wont run you too much money and is worth the investment. The beauty of FCAW is outdoor welding. You got a busted plow frame/tractor part/fence bracket and it's windy and lovely out? Flux core will do it. It's dirty and splattery, but it works. It also allows you to weld thicknesses that your little poo poo 120v welder has no business being able to do. That being said, GMAW/MIG is absolutely going to be worth the minimal additional expense for bodywork.
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Oct 30, 2013 15:44
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So a friend of mine was given a Hamilton and Associates (Maryland) benchtop mill. It's the tiniest little thing and looks like a lot of fun. The problem is that the timing belt is really sketchy looking and I'm having trouble finding a replacement. I can barely even find any information about this mill online - it appears to be something that was produced for high school metal shops in the early part of the last century. And that there was a Hamilton Ohio company that produced similar things but has nothing to do with the Maryland company. Does anyone have any ideas? The most promising lead I've come up with so far is jdv-belts.com. They don't have anything listed for it, but I figure I'll give them a call in the morning. EDIT: Switched Maryland/Ohio.....I had it backwards. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Nov 20, 2013 |
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Nov 20, 2013 04:47
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rotor posted:what's the dimensions? So I edited my original post. I had the Ohio/Maryland reversed. This is a Maryland one:  It's apart being cleaned and checked at the moment:  The belts are both 5/32" wide. One is about 30" long, the other is about 18 1/2" long. I say about because like I said they are pretty sketchy looking, so I have no idea how much they are stretched. edit: these are V belts, not toothed. Any leads would be greatly appreciated. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Nov 20, 2013 |
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Nov 20, 2013 17:11
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sixide posted:
Woah...that definitely looks like it. And I guess they are "toothed", but the toothed section doesn't touch anything on the mill - only the v section. Would that still be considered a toothed belt?  Dimensions: code:B: 1/16" C: 9/64" And idea what kind of mill that is so I can try to cross reference belts? Brekelefuw posted:Does that mill not have a y axis? It's removed at the moment. In fact, the brass block it threads into is a bit loose, so another one will need to be fabricated. If only we had a working mill.......... Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Nov 21, 2013 |
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Nov 21, 2013 17:48
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rotor posted:sounds a lot like the gates belt the taig uses http://www.amazon.com/Gates-3M500-Polyflex-Section-Length/dp/B006LPXO2O Nice. Looks like the 5M (maybe 3m) profile ones will work for this. I found the engineering drawings on the Gates site so I'm going to take some measurements of the machine to see what I can match up. Thanks! Looks like this might be a winner.
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Nov 21, 2013 19:51
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Sir Cornelius posted:You're a wizard. Seriosuly. That's amazing. The dent removal I can understand. Desoldering with no visible laquer damage is wizardry to me. (can I send you my baritone sax?)
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Apr 15, 2014 00:33
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SmokeyXIII posted:I know this post is a little old but I just saw it and don't want you to give up on delicious espresso! Have you seen the Mythbusters episode on hot water tanks exploding? The boiler in your espresso machine has similar safety features that the Mythbusters had to override to make this happen. It will have a high temperature shut down and a pressure relief valve, either will avoid catastrophic failure. If your welds blow out at a pressure lower than the setting of your pressure relief valve it will not cause anything harm because the relief valve is set to a safe pressure. Of course steam is dangerous but it's useful as heck for things like electricity and coffee so we are really careful about the sort of thing. This is dangerous advice. The safety device is set for a safe working pressure with the original tank in good condition. If a home made weld blows out just below that pressure it's still gonna sent shrapnel everywhere.
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Jul 26, 2014 20:43
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SmokeyXIII posted:The thing is that, below the pressure relief setting, the pressure is very low, only a few PSI so there will not be shrapnel. If the steam pressure was that high you could never work with it, milk would be everywhere. I'd repair the welds, and replace the relief valve with new and have a wicked espresso machine. Espresso machines operate at and above 9 bar depending on model. This is 130 PSI. So the relief valve is set even higher. Have you ever had a metal vessel at even 100 PSI explode near you? It's not pretty. And in this case it full of scalding water and steam.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:12
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SmokeyXIII posted:That's pump pressure, think about trying to froth milk with the pressure of a hose from an air compressor, it's not happening. Obviously you don't froth milk at that pressure, which is why the frother has a restricted orifice and valve on it.
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Jul 26, 2014 21:22
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Ambrose Burnside posted:One of my teeny tiny jeweller's torch tips got clogged with something, flux probably. How can I unclog it short of rooting around in there with a pin or something else thatll probably damage it? Take it off and put it in a solvent. Start with the weakest one that won't damage it, probably isopropyl alcohol. Not sure what the tip is made of or coated with so I can't say for sure what will be the safest.
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Oct 15, 2014 17:17
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Brekelefuw posted:
I'm sure those of you who know what you are doing have other/better ways of doing this, but a $100 "Drill Doctor" is the best drat thing you can spend your money on after a good set of bits.
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Nov 8, 2014 04:22
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Hu Fa Ted posted:My opinion may not be worth much, given my relative skill level, but a drill doctor is a pile of poo poo. Save your money for a used Black Diamond drill grinder (or something similar) if you have actual drill bits that cost real money. I have two that I bought at auctions that cost less than a new drill doctor and actually function. Otherwise a hundred clams will buy a shitload of cheap drill bits. I'm all ears to a better solution. There is no doubt that drill doctors are kinda lovely, but it's the only thing I'm aware of to do the job at my scale (I was handed one and didn't question it). Oh, is this the $6000+ replacement you are suggesting for a $100 tool that does the meager poo poo I need? http://www.blackdiamondgrinder.com/95series.html If so......I really don't know what to tell you. If there is something under $300 that is significantly better I'd like to know. But I'm not sharpening drill bits professionally,and 6000 clams buys a lot more drill bits than 100.
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Nov 8, 2014 04:58
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Kasan posted:No, this is the $650 that I've seen for sale as low as $400 replacement part: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301366127993?lpid=82 OK, now that's the kind of price point where buying something that isn't made of chinesium starts to make sense. Thanks for pointing that out. Edit: Also, is the the best thread to talk about TIG welding, or am I missing a more appropriate thread? I'm getting a nice old Miller Dialarc HF this week that does stick and TIG. I've only welded GMAW/FCAW and stick, so this should be fun. I've wanted to learn TIG and specifically be able to TIG aluminum for quite some time. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Nov 9, 2014 |
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Nov 9, 2014 16:02
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Kasan posted:This is the right place. TIG welding is amazing fun. Once you've learned the process, you can directly translate that into the original fuel based welding process: the oxy-fuel torch! I still use a torch for welding 14ga~ sheet metal sometimes. OK, great. I've got a friend-of-a-friend who does this professionally, so I'm sure I can get him to come by and show me what's up if necessary but in the mean time I wanted to find some good resources for settings, what rod I should be using with what, electrode shape (and maybe what electrodes.....I don't even know if there are different materials or diameters), and pretty much all that kind of basic stuff. There is a ton of information easily found by searching, but a lot of it seems to have a healthy dose of "because this is the best way" where those "best ways" don't agree with each other. And other sites are obviously just trying to sell me DVDs. I don't know what to trust. Any pointers as to where to do my research for a complete and total newbie to this process?
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Nov 9, 2014 16:40
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Thank you for the advice. Looks like a good start. I'm sure I'll be back with lots of (likely dumb) questions once I take delivery and start burning some rod.
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Nov 10, 2014 15:18
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Awww yeah, that's awesome. Looks like it's a pretty good size. Get any tooling with it?
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Dec 1, 2014 18:39
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the spyder posted:Tons. That's probably worth way more than the machine itself. Nice one.
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Dec 1, 2014 20:03
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Element1290 posted:Hey everyone! Wondering if anyone here does any gunsmithing. What I'm curious about is having a couple holes drilled and tapped in the Mossberg Maverick 88 shotgun I just bought. It doesn't come with the holes neccessary to mount optics to the top of the receiver. Any ideas on how hard it would be to do it? I have access to a drill press, but no experience in metal work. What would I need to do something like this and what would I be getting myself into? The most important part, especially for optics, it getting the holes in the right spot(s). Measuring and/or templates are critical, and I don't think baby's first close tolerance drill and tap project should be on a $300 shotty. There no reason you can't work up to that, but with no previous metalworking experience I'd start on scrap and work your way up.
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Jan 7, 2015 23:46
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halonx posted:I've found with Reddit that you have to subscribe to what you want and ditch the crap you don't care about. The bulk of the vocal reddit haters don't get this. It's not all a cesspool, but all of the "default" stuff has turned into that as it has gained popularity, like every other site before it with no barrier to entry.
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Mar 13, 2015 03:49
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I have that exact welder. It's a tank. Go out an get some fresh flux core - it will make your life a lot easier and less splattery.
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Apr 14, 2015 13:47
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Leperflesh posted:Nice! Yeah, I run mine on a 15A with no problems. Leperflesh posted:Also, what do I need to buy, to do proper MIG? I assume a cannister of argon with a regulator, but... any other equipment? You need lots of stuff to convert it to MIG, but it's all available as a kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lcn-k610-1?seid=srese1&gclid=CLCZs6-79sQCFQUQ7AodGnsA_A As far as gas, you can run straight CO2 or an Argon/CO2 mix, but straight Argon is only for nonferrous metals (for MIG). Straight CO2 is cheap, but splattery.
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Apr 14, 2015 19:54
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Leperflesh posted:OK, well I'll probably play with just fluxcore for a while, but it's good to know it's easy to go to real MIG. We have some possibilities of doing aluminum welding, but probably CO2/Argon mix is the best way to go, for versaility. FYI, you won't do much (as far as thickness) on that machine with MIG, but flux core punches way above it's amperage level, which makes that little thing very useful. Flux core is also awesome for welding outside. The combo of those two plus the fact that it runs on 120v makes it the perfect portable box for doing a quick exhaust repair, welding nuts on stripped fasteners at your idiot friends house who is halfway through a job with an immobile car and stripped bolt, fixing plow frames in the middle of a snow storm, welding fence/railings, etc (all of which I've done with mine in the last year).
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Apr 15, 2015 14:46
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Random Number posted:Shopvac, coolant, air hose, harden the gently caress up. Those are your options, sorry. Leather apron isn't a bad idea either.
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May 5, 2015 02:43
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Random Number posted:A leather apron to waylay aluminum pube trimmings? Yeah, it's not like I invented the idea. Machinists have been wearing leather aprons to solve this exact problem since shortly after machining became a thing.
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May 5, 2015 16:09
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I'll just leave this here.
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May 24, 2015 16:28
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ReelBigLizard posted:Holy poo poo that's a good deal if it's a decent welder. Funnily enough it's my birthday in a weeks time... A German made box for a Chinesium price? I'm pretty interested in seeing how well this works out. Looks like it would be a nice portable rig.
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May 25, 2015 03:08
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Get that rod in plastic NOW. If you live anywhere humid the flux picks up moisture and makes it splatter everywhere. Also, that looks like a perfect bin full of crap to start leaning on. Start watching youtube videos to get an idea of what you'll be looking for in the puddle, etc.
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Jun 16, 2015 15:09
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Kasan posted:Looks like it turns a cheapo welder into a mock high end Miller or LE. One that has the HF start switch stuck on "continuous". I'm sure it's better than scratch starting, and at the right price I could see it being useful. Unfortunately, $349 is NOT the right price.
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Jul 8, 2015 07:13
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Ferremit posted:Instead our big welders require 416v 3 phase, which isnt as simple as getting a new run in from the street, you get to talk to the utility company about how many tens of thousands its going to cost you to get three phase pulled to your house, hundreds of thousands if your in an area where there isnt 3 phase on the poles! You don't have phase converters in Australia? Pretty much everyone with a decent size home machine shop is running a phase converter and/or VFD so they can run sweet, sweet clapped out bridgeports and lathes we get for almost nothing from shops that just want them gone. Because F paying the utility company for proper 3 phase.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:17
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I'm working in a shop right now that has an early 30s West Bend lathe driven by a big ol flat belt coming off an electric motor. The existing flat belt is held together with jury-rigged metal staples 'cause the owner doesn't know where to get a new belt. Where can such a thing be had? The usual suspects. Like http://www.mcmaster.com/#flat-belts Hypnolobster posted:Welders are weird, and won't run off static phase converters, and will run very badly on home made idler motor converters. Supposedly over time it'll eat 2 of the transformers in a 3 phase welder. Yeah, I wouldn't even think of running welder off of anything other than a rotary phase converter (240v single phase motor with a 3 phase generator strapped to it) but they really aren't that expensive here (unless you are buying new.....but who does that for shop tools?.....again, may be a US thing).
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Nov 10, 2015 02:45
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Huh, he said he did the Fastenal et al crawl and came up with nothing, I'll pass it along, thanks. If that doesn't work you go to the amish dudes in central PA/Ohio. I'm not kidding. Those guys know their poo poo and use that stuff all the time.
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Nov 10, 2015 03:09
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Slung Blade posted:Anyone own or have used one of those Hobart self contained plasma cutters with the integrated air supply? YES. A buddy has a little one (120v) and it's awesome for light sheet metal, and so easy to take your show on the road. Just don't expect too much out of it as far as thickness/power.
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Nov 17, 2015 01:05
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Ambrose Burnside posted:What's the integrated air supply, do they accept wee little bottles of something or do they just come with a built-in compressor? Little compressor.
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Nov 17, 2015 02:00
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What is that? A flux core welder? If so, 2.5% rated duty cycle is plenty for a non-welder who just want's something to stick nuts to poo poo that won't come out.
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Nov 17, 2015 03:13
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10 Beers posted:As someone who knows nothing about this stuff but loves seeing the stuff you guys make, does that mean that it works for 15 seconds, then you have to let it rest for 9 minutes and 45 seconds? When running at 100% power. Which may not be anywhere close to where you'd be running it on a regular basis.
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Nov 17, 2015 18:24
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Slung Blade posted:I think I need one. Biggest I've done is like 12-14g sheet and it's like butter. No idea on 1/4".
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Nov 18, 2015 00:28
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Pagan posted:I realize I left out an important sentence : I'm trying to make the bolt from scratch, and making a good bolt is the hardest part. I tried three times, and got close, but I don't have bolt tongs (what I'm trying to make) and I kept dropping the tiny piece.I bought machine screws from Home Depot today and they'll suffice, but I was hoping I could make the whole thing from scratch. http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Impact-Electric-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447993995&sr=8-1&keywords=howard+leight Pair them with http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight...ward+leight+max and turn up the volume enough to overcome the plugs. This is my standard "everything noisy" setup from shooting range to chainsaws to hammering fence posts. For the less noisy things I skip the plugs (like mowing).
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Nov 20, 2015 05:35
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