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Yes it's stupid to think a vstrom will satisfy you. Buy a DRZ400SM.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:48
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Verge posted:I understand that the drz400 is to SA is what the ninja 250 is to Reddit (mascot bike, not beginner bike) and I considered it but I'm 5'7 with a long torso and if I get the drz, i have to keep 2 bikes because I can't tour on a thumper so I'm told (talking 8 hour days here). What you think? You haven't steered me wrong yet. I did 14 hour days on my DRZ, just have to check the oil while doing long freeway days.
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Dec 18, 2016 04:10
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It wasn't used as a rider's training bike, was it?
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Dec 28, 2016 21:02
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Isolationist posted:I'm $10k into a DR650 sumo build, can 100% confirm its not worth it and it'd be a million times smarter to just buy the right tool straight off the bat (KTM 690 SMC > 790 DR). Well this has to be a good story. My opinion on WR vs DRZ is "Buy the reliable one". If you're gonna get deep into (street) sumo you're buying a 701 / 690 or whatever soon enough, if you're not, the power differential just won't matter.
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Jan 11, 2017 16:02
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With regards to what is more reliable between the DR and the WR, it's gonna be the one that's more stock and cleaner. Unless you're buying new then they're the same.
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Jan 12, 2017 06:44
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DRZ + SV650. dehumanize yourself and face to goon bieks
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Jan 13, 2017 09:20
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Probably better to start with your usecase, as those bikes fit broadly different catagories - fat single cylinder offroad bikes that are low powered but good because they're crashable as hell, a fat two cylinder bike that's not really good for much of anything but disappointing the owner, and a very good value to money streetbike that just looks like a dualsport thing.
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Feb 12, 2017 21:13
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Label Facing Right posted:So I'm looking to make the jump up from my CBR250r that I bought last summer. I'm leaning more towards a dual sport / supermoto the longer and longer I think about it but am also keeping an eye out for a naked bike in decent condition (SV-650 or similar) Wouldn't pay more than 2.5k for a Duke II - bike is decent enough but very unrefined/ a bit finicky and you should be able to get a nice FI SV for 3.5k.
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Feb 13, 2017 23:02
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Odette posted:As I said in #bieks, I managed to completely destroy my bike's engine. I hosed up bad. ABS good, SV650 meh. What are you planning on doing, what's your riding history, etc?
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Feb 23, 2017 06:18
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Isolationist posted:My BKing was just written off; brother advises me I won't be able to keep up with him in the hills on my motard, so need to buy another bike (aims: daily rider/commuter + hills fun, ABS as a must). Have a bad lower back and occasionally ride 1000+km days, so have always gone for bikes with relaxed ergos. RIP B-King  What sort of price range are you looking in? Taking a quick look at cycle ergo, convertibars won't do it for you, you're going to need at least 7 inches of rise to get in the ballpark of the B-King position. Handlebar kit + pegs 1 inch lower and forward will get you sorted out to a reasonably sane seating position. Throwing a taller seat on it would also help you out a bit on legroom, but might make the bar too low. LSL makes a kit: http://www.thestuntfactory.com/lslharikikaz8.html These sort of things are always a bit of a clusterfuck to pull off, though - inevitably, you end up cutting the windshield or spacing out the from fairing to get enough clearance for the bars. 9k doesn't seem like a screaming deal for an ex-racebike without suspension mods, but I don't know Australian pricing.
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Feb 25, 2017 08:53
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ahh this is the first one of the year!
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Feb 26, 2017 03:30
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I think the CSC might be the exception to the rule here: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/csc-250cc-rx-3-cyclone.1007040/ You can dig through the whole thread and there's definitely some quirks to it but it doesn't appear to exist in the same tier as other Chinese bikes. I'd put it closer to MV ownership. Some dumb / annoying poo poo is gonna pop up and it might require some finagling to get it to work but there's forums and owners and a factory to sort it out. I wouldn't recommend it to a newb as a first bike but someone who wanted a cheap / fun project dual sport without plunking down 5k or whatever on a CRF250 Rally, well, you could do worse.
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Mar 8, 2017 05:38
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To be clear - the first thing I would do if I bought a CSC would be tear it down for inspection. It's a vastly better choice than a beat to poo poo CB750 or whatever if you wanna learn to work on bikes, but it's still a mechanics bike first and riding bike second. What your priorities are is what will determine if it's a good idea or not.
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Mar 8, 2017 17:08
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Versys?
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Mar 19, 2017 02:09
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Yeah you're describing an SV650 or a Ninja 650. Look at any relatively upright parallel twin or v-twin for your second bike in the 600-900cc range. A MIRACLE posted:I would examine why you want to change it up more before shopping. Power? Suspension? Ergonomics? Luggage and practicality? An SV 650 will be marginally faster but will have basically the same budget oriented components as a 300 An SV650 or any 650 twin is significantly faster than a 250. Modern 250s are only ~20% lighter than an SV, and with about 1/3rd the HP.
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Mar 19, 2017 21:50
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New KTM 790.
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Mar 30, 2017 01:57
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Ya sounds like you're in that weird place where a grom is a decent decision. Go with it due to aftermarket availability, not because it's a better or worse bike out the door.
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Apr 15, 2017 06:04
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Yeah that can be reasonable depending on what you haggle them down to. It's got narrower rims but figure it's comparable-ish (little lower spec across the board) to a wr250x.
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Apr 20, 2017 19:58
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Yeah the SV is a great first track bike, will teach you how to actually maintain corner speed, get comfortable spending most of your time pinned, line choice, passing technique, etc.
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May 1, 2017 03:37
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Get the KLX, you'll be fine.
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May 21, 2017 04:42
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A MIRACLE posted:Speaking of sport tourers... thoughts? Are these good? Is an aftermarket exhaust a red flag? These sorta had glass transmissions, 2nd gear is a common failure point. 90% of that is due to POs not knowing how to shift them, but that doesn't change the fact that you're splitting the cases to fix it. If it pops out of 2nd under a hard shift, run, but otherwise the rest of the bike is pretty solid. Slightly more upright 600 from the days when supersports weren't strictly for winning races. Only big red flag is that the fairings have been painted. Check the engine covers for scrapes, the footpeg ends for scrapes that aren't parallel to the direction of travel, if the bar ends are scraped / missing / not OEM. Use that to bargain him down a bit more, 3k is a bit high for a bike that old. I'd probably show up with 2500 cash in hand, hem and haw over the fairings not being OEM, and offer him that and walk if he doesn't take it. If he does, test ride it, slam it into second and make sure it doesn't pop out under power, and then enjoy your 600. Z3n fucked around with this message at 10:16 on May 28, 2017 |
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May 28, 2017 10:11
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Yeah Razzled has no idea how to ride if he's like "omg i can't pass people with a motorcycle that is capable of doing 105mph when they're doing 80mph". loving downshift that thing into what power it does make and rip past traffic. Coydog, if you're gonna buy a dirtbike to compliment the 690, buy a real dirtbike. Your 300 pound SMC is better on 17s with TKC80s at dual sportin' than a 365 pound DR650 with a 21 inch front. If you're doing real offroad, then you want a real dirtbike.
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Jun 3, 2017 10:13
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Slavvy posted:I sincerely think everyone should start off on a 250 and the UK's system, while badly flawed, is a good thing in that it forces you to run a punishing 13hp midgetbike for a long time. Nothing teaches you about proper cornering, using the brakes, momentum etc than riding something slower than a car. It just teaches you to ride, period. Bigger engines with more power are just the lazy way out. I'm a halfway decent rider at this point, and I bought a 450 EXC-F for my re-entry to dirt bikes, and let me tell you, that was a loving stupid idea. I'm having fun, but I'm also slamming my pretty new dirtbike into the ground over and over and it's taking me a pile more time to learn the basics. Hopped on my buddy's Beta RS-F 125 and just cruised on up some stuff that was "you better be on your loving game on that clutch lever" on my 450. Also looped my 450 trying to do a slow hillclimb in second, got a little too far back, it suddenly hooked, and whelp, there the fucker goes. 250/300 is fine, but unfortunately no new rider has any context for what good riding looks like, so what the gently caress are you gonna do. Yell at them on the internet, I guess.
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Jun 5, 2017 00:47
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They're fine bikes but I found the engine terminally boring.
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Jun 13, 2017 05:54
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My rule of thumb is be prepared to replace everything the PO listed as a thing they "fixed" in the ad.
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Jun 15, 2017 23:54
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Is there actually a single goon success story with the 675? I mean "success story" is relative but I've owned two and both of them are still functional. One is at 35k now as a buddy's daily and the other is a trackbike only that's still fun to ride: https://youtube.com/watch?v=Ivde6tus058 Both got stolen and recovered, though.
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Jul 13, 2017 17:16
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clutchpuck posted:On v-twin sport bikes: I am talking to a guy tomorrow about a Ulysses-for-Futura horse trade. Futuras are the best. Pity about that rear wheel bearing but they're still the best.
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Sep 12, 2017 07:03
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XR is "Adventure Sport" - it's absolutely not a dual use bike. Jumping it would be hilarious murder on everything, and the first big rock climb would scrape off your drain plug. But also it's the best street do it all bike ever made so it's got that going for it. Long days short days track riding twisty roads 2 up whatever you want it'll do it and do it drat well.
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Sep 20, 2017 00:46
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Slavvy posted:Disclaimer: the best bike in the world is always the bike z3n owns right now. i'm personally looking forward to advocating for touring on a trials bike soon
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Sep 24, 2017 19:42
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[quote="“Slavvy”" post="“476726780”"] No need for any bitch rear end screens and fairings when you top out at 40km! [/quote] you don't bunny hop potholes? what are you, a scrub?
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Sep 25, 2017 15:35
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R-Type posted:Even in that condition it still looks better than any Harley. You will get poo poo from insurance companies, it might be better to try to re-register it as a home build/custom (may not be allowed in your state, check the rules) . Id say 30 cents on the dollar of book value. I'd have the frame checked for straightness and would make sure it wasn't damaged, lest ye disintegrate after going over a big pothole at 70 mph. No need for that in CA, salvage title is just a brand. Do you really want a cruiser? I find them pretty garby to ride.
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Nov 23, 2017 05:12
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Some douchebag wrote a thing about this in a local rag once. Probably was drunk at the time. http://citybike.com/includes/upload/back_issue/cb_2014-07.pdf Page 20.
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Nov 23, 2017 05:56
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I’d ballpark in at 5k. Probably start at 4.5. It’s a salvage title bike with zero docs, just not really worth much imo. Cruiser market is real weird tho so I don’t have strong guidance here.
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Nov 23, 2017 06:43
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Fauxtool posted:I think most of your 1000 worries are also present in the 600 considering most 1000s are just bigger engines crammed into a 600 chassis. The HP to weight ratio on a 600 isnt actually that far off what a 1000 is. They are both crazy fast in all the same ways, just more so in the 1000. The R6, ready to ride, as per PB's scales, weighs 191.4kg. The R1 weighs 201kg. Their stripped 08 CBR1000RR weighs 195.6kg, 2017 CBR1000RR weighs 197kg, Panigale V4S weighs 201kg. Minus their project bike, these are all street bikes in stock factory trim. Power figures are 112 hp on the R6, and the literbikes start at 180hp and go up to 202hp at the wheel for things like the new Panigale V4S. Their modified (light engine work) 08 CBR makes 172hp. You trade about 20 pounds for around 70-90hp. You lose traction on a 600, and if you're being smooth with the throttle, it's not gonna snap hard on you, it'll unload, start to slide, and likely, if you're riding it properly, it'll spin up RPM-wise out of the powerband and sorta bring itself back into line. You're unlikely to break traction in a meaningful way if you're out of the powerband unless you're getting really stupid, thanks to how sticky modern tires are on a track surface. You can absolutely still highside one, but chance are, you weren't using good technique and weren't listening to the bike warning you you were getting in over your head. The cool thing about modern literbikes is if you wanna slide them around, if you wanna rip wheelies out of every corner on the track, even the 4th gear, 110mph ones, you can totally do that. But they're hardly good bikes for learning skilled riding on, because you're gonna overbrake into every corner, bring the bike to a stop, turn it, and then fire it back out constantly, and when you get good drive out of a corner, you're gonna see a difference of upwards of 10mph on the next corner entrance, which is gonna throw everything off. The 600s are great for learning the skills of optimizing line choice, gear choice, balancing lean angle / line / throttle application. Getting on a literbike is also gonna force you to learn to manage significantly more braking/acceleration force, which will make you more tired, force you to work on more skills at higher speeds, and in general slow down your progression. Modern literbikes with TC are insanely fun to ride though, because they're incredibly low stress. Just grip it and rip it and let the electronics sort you out. Sure, you'll go slower than you could, but you'll have a blast doing it. A nicely built GSX-R750 is a good compromise bike, because you get a wider spread of power, it'll give you a bit more grunt if you end up a gear too low, and it'll be more forgiving in terms of absolute gearing if you're really starting to optimize to a certain track as you'll usually be able to maintain most of your drive even if you're not exactly geared correctly for a track. Plus there's a billion spares out there, the chassis is literally the 600 chassis, it's pretty comfortable for a supersport, and it's a very, very nice bike to ride. I loved my GSX-R600 trackbike, if I hadn't been racing, I would have used a 750 as a cheater trackbike. Also, unlike a lot of other bikes, you can take forks and suspension parts / spares from 600s, 750s, and sometimes the 1000s. Plus there's an awesome spares market for them as a result of the number of bros who throw them down the road. If you wanna throw money at the problem, you can buy a new R6 which now has TC. But the GSX-R is a better, much more forgiving platform to learn on - R6s are peaky, demand appropriate gearing, and are insanely precise, which is great if you've already got great bike control, but if you're still trying to build that skillset at track speed / skill, aren't the most forgiving. Basically, a lot of words to say: Get a GSX-R750, look for one with a stock engine, aftermarket suspension, a decat pipe and quickshifter. Do not buy a bike with a built engine unless it comes with a spare and you're comfortable swapping the engines and paying to have good tuning done - almost all engine builds are gonna give up a shitload of reliability for no benefit for a non-racer. You'll find that race engine builds turn your 750 into something closer to a 600 in terms of power delivery, which isn't a selling point - you want a wide, flexible powerband, not one that's tuned for a rider who only ever runs in the top 2.5k RPM. The majority of engine builders / tuners / their customers don't understand that predictable delivery is what gives speed, and peak HP numbers are just dickwaving, so you end up with massive, unusable HP numbers, that blow up constantly.
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Dec 1, 2018 22:57
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MomJeans420 posted:Purely academic question since I don't plan on buying a new bike for a year or two, but all this talk of 600s touches upon something I was going to ask the forums anyway. I have a 2007 Daytona 675 and was thinking of replacing it with a newer 675 in the future, but now I'm not sure I want to buy a discontinued model because of issues with parts and aftermarket support (though I realize there will be an aftermarket long after there aren't new versions of the bike). If I wanted to stay in the 600s, it looks like my two choices are what everyone is talking about, R6 or GSX-R600. How does the Ninja ZX-6R fit in there? Anything else I'm missing? Are either of R6 or GSX-R600 closer to the Daytona 675 than the other, or are they all just different in various ways? It depends on what you want to do with it. The ZX6R and the Honda tend to be the better streetbikes, but the 600 market tends to be all about the numbers and theoretical track performance and much less about usability. The 675 is sort of a weird bike, it's got this bizzaro tight ratio gearbox, but a really nice spread of power, and it's really quick handling. Probably closest to the R6 in terms of chassis, closest to the ZX6R in terms of motor thanks to the cheater ccs on the 636 engines. Kawasaki basically sacrificed race classification for a bit more flexibility in the motor. The bits I say down below about literbikes generally apply to the 600s as well, with the exception of the R6, which is a monster trackbike and has been the most competitive bike out there with only cosmetic updates only since 06 (and recently, TC). If you're going majority track, I'd find a nice track prepped R6, if you're doing street, whatever you can find the best deal on and blows your skirt up the most between the GSX-R/ZX6R/CBR/Daytona, noting that if you're looking 2013+ the ZX6Rs got TC. I'm quite likely to own a track prepped 2013 ZX6R soon, so we'll see what the TC is like on that thing. Barnsy posted:Thanks Zen, that basically confirms what I was thinking. I was aiming for a GSXR 600 or 750 because the aftermarket is so huge and the parts are so swappable between frames. Do not buy an 05 - the most popular run of the bike was 06-10, so if you want access to the long, wide yardsale of GSX-R parts, you want an 06 and up. Some parts may still be compatible later on with the 2011+ models as well. knox_harrington posted:What a great post. I only have experience of my current litre bike, but from what I read the mid-2000s litre sports bikes also massively differ from each owin power delivery, is that right? In that a 2004 CBR1000 would be a way different proposition from a R1 or ZX10R. Yeah, they all had personality in how they'd get around a track. Kawasakis had ballistic engines and constantly acted like they wanted to kill you, Hondas were pretty streetable / sane / accessible, Yamahas were good looking but not all that great (and then they got the crossplanes, and were shittier looking but way better sounding), and Suzuki was the all arounder bro bike of choice. Then BMW and Aprilia showed up, the electronic wars kicked off, and poo poo got legit real fast, and minus Yamaha (and to a lesser degree, kawasaki), everyone's still playing catch up. They're all very fun and interesting bikes, but given that you can get an S1000RR that'll still blow your pants off for pretty cheap these days, the biggest thing you should be looking for is "what's the best electronics package I can get", because you'll go faster, safer, and have more fun.
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Dec 4, 2018 06:03
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It's loving fine, jesus. You're buying new, KTM is good about warranty support, keep an eye on the oil, as they will tend to burn it randomly during break in, but besides that it's fine. The idea that a DR650 is "90% of the performance" is loving laughable. DR is like 50 pounds heavier, and has roughly half the HP. They fixed the twitchy throttle on the 701 / new 690s, so you don't have to spend 80 bucks buying a G2 throttle tamer. The problem isn't the fueling, mapping, it's that the throttle body cable actuator is oval, to the point that when you open the throttle the first little bit, it always ads about 5% more throttle than you want. No, I don't know why they did this, yes, it's loving dumb, but the fueling on them is actually pretty decent if the PO hasn't put a pipe on it. I've got a 450 with 65 hours on it (same bottom end as the 500, just a different cylinder / etc), valves haven't moved, runs great, just normal oil changes / filter cleaning. Still stupid loving fast (62hp at the crank, jesus), it's stupid fun in supermoto mode as well. The modern KTMs are really loving good. It's sort of boring to be like "yeah just buy a KTM because they're generally loving great", but they really are. I don't really know what to tell folks about windblast on supermotos - it's a supermoto, a DRZ, DR, 690, whatever, it doesn't loving matter, they're all garbage on the freeway. You either buy a nice helmet and good earplugs/headphones and enjoy them in the twisty stuff and suck it up on the freeways or you don't.
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Feb 25, 2019 05:06
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Spiffness posted:West coast crew keeps him locked up these days ruining perfectly good motorcycles I have some recommendations for new riders: Honda CBX:  Sure, it's a little on the heavy side but it's lighter than a sportster or whatever harley is pumping out these days, and it's under the power output of a modern 600, so it's pretty safe. I do recommend swapping on 17s though, so that might be a little out of the norms of your usual new rider. You can get an 1190 Super Enduro:  It's lighter than the CBX but also doesn't have a seat so, uh, you know, it's good for building good habits for your eventual pro trials bike career. Also, it's got ABS and Traction Control, and an offroad mode which reduces power to even less than the already neutered CBX. I'd also recommend a Ducati 999, but you should remove the motor and put in a multistrada motor for less weight and lower HP, which makes it about like an SV, but with much nicer suspension and frame and a bit more torque so it's harder to stall.  Also that sets you up for the upgrade path, which is the 999 motor in the multistrada. Consider it a project to grow into. Also, cutting out some of the frame supports to make the motor fit helps with the suppleness of the frame.  Or just buy a 790 and put 17s on it because KTM refuses to make good motorcycles.  Rumors of my demise have been apparently greatly exaggerated, but rumors of the demise of motorcycles that come under my care have absolutely not been exaggerated. GriszledMelkaba posted:it me (really bad loud audio) better video: https://streamable.com/c3v12
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Feb 5, 2021 21:37
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 19:50 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:
loving beat to the first post on the KTM page, time to go away in shame for another 5 years
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Feb 5, 2021 21:48
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