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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

landgrabber posted:

any aftermarket bullshit that an extreme minority of drivers are putting on their fast cars ain't poo poo compared to corporate carbon emissions. same thing with recycling.

Yeah.....the stat is that 16 panamax oil tankers cause as much pollution (running on bunker fuel) as every other car in the world combined. And there are a lot more than 16 ships of that size.

What the EPA is doing for specialty parts is slightly less useful than Californian homes being put under water restrictions when the vast, vast majority of their water is being used to irrigate net trees that someone planted in the middle of a loving desert.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

landgrabber posted:

i don't know poo poo, so maybe it helps you get more performance, but if it doesn't, leave it alone

Perhaps don't have strong opinions on the topic then? Because everyone's talking about performance exhaust. For added performance.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

WRX, seriously? I see you've not talked to your insurance agent yet.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fresh_cheese posted:

Its not /for/ the kids, they get the big slow safe car thats paid for. Maybe a honda beater in a couple years if they dont bend any metal and can put up half the purchase cost.

An excellent point though. Ill have to talk to my insurance guy about this.

It doesn't matter if it's FOR them or not. If you have young drivers in your household chances are good that you'll have no reasonable options for excluding them, so the insurance is going to be INSANE....and if you want to teach them how to drive stick on it you CAN'T exclude them. I've got a young driver and my 520 HP twin turbo porsche costs less than a WRX to insure. (which is why I bought her a 5-speed '08 Impreza to learn on)

WRXes are just statistically cars that idiot young drivers do idiotic things in. So my point isn't that it's a bad car or a dangerous one, just that it's statistically problematic which makes it a financially poor choice when you could get something better/faster/more fun for much less once you involve a household with young drivers.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Mar 8, 2021

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fresh_cheese posted:

And all this high insurance cost is part of the WRX /racecar/ 21 yr old bad decision making thing, im guessing?

Yes. "Fast" car for a young driver, that is affordable enough for them to get their hands on.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

i own every Bionicle posted:

Not trying to tell anybody that what they like sucks. If you find the car fun now then you’ll probably be happy with it, but yeah, it’s a big jump in expense over a more normal car that not everybody enjoys during their daily commute.

Agreed on all of this. Also, after spending a bunch of money on upgrades to make it....whatever it turns into I have some advice: don't ever drive a car that is actually fast, handles well or is in any way sporty fun because the WRX doesn't stand up. Certainly not with the amount of money you'd have in it by then.

This is one of the reasons people buy them though: it's aspirational. They can keep flinging money into it with a hope and a dream that some day it will be just like Travis Pastrana's car.

Not sure what's up with saying a base model impreza 5 speed isn't fun. You can wring them out and keep it mostly under felony speeds. It's no sports car, but for a practical (and criminally underpowered) 4 door it's pretty fun. For what it is, not as a sports car. That would be just disappointing, as detailed in WRX chat.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

STR posted:

So how amazing/terrible are the early FA engines? There's some higher mileage stuff in my price range with 3 pedals. My hips/knees don't want to go back to 3 pedals, but I'll take it as a trade off to not having to deal with timing belts (or CVTs).

Really? EJ25 timing belts are super easy.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

DrChu posted:

I was not trying to take it above 3500

Serious question: does your basic, normal driving not take you over 3500 RPMs on a regular basis?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Who's water pump was put on there? Most of the remans I've come across are such unmitigated poo poo I refuse to use them.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Chiwie posted:

My car roughly did that when my gasket went. Get a mechanic to put a sniffer in the coolant to rule it out.

Yeah, I mean.....I don't know it's that, but between checking water pump flow vs. a coolant exhaust gas test.......you do the latter first since it's cheap and easy.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

OMGVBFLOL posted:

having driven a prius for years, i dont get the hand-wringing about cvts. i mean, yeah, the prius is boring as gently caress, but i don't see how it'd be any less boring if the vroomvroom noises changed pitch in a different pattern. what am i missing here

It's not about the vroom vroom noises, it's about how most CVTs are hot garbage that break frequently and will explode if you even park in the same driveway with a trailer. A Prius transmission shares almost nothing with pretty much every other CVT you'll hear people talking about.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

STR posted:

it was a Gates kit, so no telling when the tensioner would fail

I kept the stock tensioner and put that gates pulley on it (which looked like good NTK Japan-stamped bearings). The gates tensioner itself was just really sketchy looking. As was the water pump.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Internet Explorer posted:

I dropped down in gear to pass a semi, didn't redline it or anything but accelerated at a safe pace, then like 2-3 miles later it started jumping in RPMs just from accelerating enough to keep up to highway speeds, even in 5th gear. It started to smell like burning brakes or clutch. I found a safe spot to pull over and let it sit for a bit, then when I turned it back on I could shift into gear, but if I let off the clutch it didn't accelerate or stall. Tried all the gears including reverse.

Okay, so your clutch is slipping. It's probably the clutch. But does it leave puddles in your driveway/garage? Because a bad rear main seal puking oil can do this too.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Internet Explorer posted:

When you say "rear seal," what is that exactly and where is it located?

Rear MAIN seal. It's where the crankshaft exist the rear of the block. So it holds oil in. If that starts to piddle it can get on the clutch surface.

If you're not seeing drips where you park it's probably not an issue.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yeah, no. I used to have a thread here about how that's a really bad idea.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

I've never had problems using top off cans. But if one can does not solve the problem, adding more will gently caress it up.

Yes it should be vacuumed out and repressurized with fresh freon, but that's $100+ instead of $20 for a top off.

Oh yeah. Not everything is R134a anymore.

Glad you personally have never had problems. But your sample size consists of you, and I'm the person who's had to clean up after these kinds of problems.

Also, it's not freon.

I guess now that robot spine has been evicted I can put my thread back.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

Thread link? I need schoolin'. E: nm, I see the new one.

I've used it twice, one of my many previous cars and one of the exwifes', both times around a decade ago. It worked well in a pinch and both were traded off later.

Though now that I think of it, the compressor on my civic hybrid did seize about two years later, but I just rolled down my windows and dealt with it. I realize AC is a necessity in some places, Memphis was kind of a lovely place to roll without AC.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970674

I just put it back up.

The quick recharge kits, if they don't have leak stop, aren't the wrong thing to put in.....but without a high side gauge you just don't know whether you SHOULD be doing this or not. And if you shouldn't be you're going to cause a lot more damage.

There's really not much of an excuse when you can buy a proper set of manifold gauges and a couple cans of refrigerant for what it costs to have a shop do it. And now you have a set of manifold gauges for every other time you need to figure out what's up and/or recharge.

No, they're not gonna be pro grade gauges, but event he harbor freight ones work well enough and will last if you store them properlay and keep them clean (pro stuff has much better hoses that won't get eaten as quickly, gauge faces that won't turn white when left in the sun, etc).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

My personal solution now, when an expensive AC issue rears its' head, is to buy a shorter accessory belt. But I live in a dry climate and don't commute in nice clothes to an office. Fortunately the Outback has decent AC for now.

Yeah, that's definitely a thing you can do. And depending on the year of your outback it may just involve a pair of scissors because the EJ25 AC belt is just for the AC.

For much of the rest of us, we live in places where you need AC. For me it's not even just because it's hot in summer....I can live with that. It's literally dangerous to drive in winter without it. Defrost is super important here.

um excuse me posted:

Motronic FYI I love your AC threads and have referenced them many times over the years to diagnose and fix multiple cars.

Thanks, I'm glad I can help people figure out the not-really-magic magic.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

CRUSTY MINGE posted:

'13 with an FB25 in Colorado. It was 90°F here today, but low humidity and elevation make it extremely tolerable outside of direct sunlight.

Oh yeah, FB25 has a legit serp belt and you can't even get a shorter one to bypass the AC compressor due to the layout as far as I can tell. You'd need something like a replacement pulley which may or may not exist. Easier to just keep a compressor with a working clutch bearing on it even if the rest of the system is dead.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FYI, hoses on that kit are a bit stiff and don't stand up very well - nor do the gauge faces- but if you keep them clean and put them away in the case they do fine. It's a perfectly good home gamer set. Just typical cheap plastics that don't do well with solvents or constant UV exposure.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

AzureSkys posted:

the interior of the windshield when the top left corner of it popped up from the frame. It looks like it's not been attached on that side for I don't know how long and I'm not sure what to do to get it fixed, too.

The glass shop I use insists on pulling the entire windshield because there's no real way to guarantee a good seal otherwise. This almost definitely means a full windshield replacement.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Wasabi the J posted:

2010 OB with 3.6R and automatic.

Should I worry about this? I just noticed there's nothing there and it's hard to make out the diagrams online.




That looks like something that should be attached to a DPFE on a ford mod motor of that era.

e: lol wrong thread.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Scarf posted:

The ac compressor on my 2012 Forester X seized and I need to swap it out. What are some good reliable brands I should be looking for? Are remans alright or should I really go new?

Remans are a crapshoot, but I've had generally good luck with them (not so much for alternators and starters). Don't buy the cheapest one, probably don't need to buy the most expensive one.

I put one of these on my daughters car nearly a year ago. Looked good coming out of the box (no jankiness, good bearings etc) and has been working well: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5950518&cc=1440446&pt=6628&jsn=1

Looks like that exact one may be the correct part for your car too but double check. (Her car is an 08 Impreza poverty spec.)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

stevobob posted:

Anyone know if 15" wheels will fit on a 17-18 Impreza?

They won't even fit on an '08 Impreza. You can't clear the front calipers.

Yeah, you can put pre '08 calipers on there but....ehhhh...maybe don't do that unless it's for a really good reason like "I can only get gravel tires in this size and it's is a caged rally car."

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Wasabi the J posted:

Any thoughts?

It's getting harder and harder to find, but do you have radiator shop nearby? Those guys can work magic.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Wasabi the J posted:

I'm in Las Vegas so I'm open to help finding out. What can something like what cost?

I want to pay fair I just also don't want to waste cash badly.

You're not walking out of a rad shop for under $500 for them to do pretty much anything at all. So yeah, it's not gonna be cheap. I'd guess it's on the scale of what wrar's talking about, perhaps more, but you end up with exactly what you want as far as fitment.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Has anyone used the Gates timing belt and water pump kits? I feel like I heard something negative about them, I'm trying to decide between DIYing it and paying a shop. At least I have a SOHC EJ22 engine so I'll only have two cams to line up rather than four.

I know I'll need to replace my antifreeze, is a coolant flush something worth doing or is it pointless? My valve cover gaskets also need replacing at some point, are they easier to get at when doing the timing belt and water pump? Thinking about the engine geometry I don't think they would be but I could be wrong.

The current gates kits are not great. The belt is fine, the water pump is sketchy looking, the tensioner is super sketchy looking, but the bearings are good.

I didn't bother swapping the water pump (the OEMs rarely seem to have issues) and I swapped the bearing on the new crappy looking tensioner to my old tensioner.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

then I also wouldn't have to shell out for new coolant or a flush.

If you need to change coolant you need to change coolant. It's all coming out anyway because you need to pull the rad and ac condenser to do the belt job. If the coolant is still good drain it into a clean pan and put it back in when you're done.

I have no idea how to tell if the pump is OEM. Some of the rebuilders don't do anything to the casting at all, some of them grind things off or puts stamps on them.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

um excuse me posted:

Well I know for a fact that Gates stamps their pumps.



Just checked the one I didn't use and yeah:


But that still leaves everybody else who remans these things as a question mark.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Charles posted:

I don't think I've ever tried pulling out of gear while throttle is applied, but I can't remember.

It would rev to the limit. Cruise control in these things is really drat simple. It has no idea what gear you are in, or not any gear for that matter. That's why there are switches on the brake and clutch pedal to disengage it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Wasabi the J posted:



Should I be worried about this? These tires are only 15k old I think.

I've been rotating and the wear is even everywhere else.

How old are they in years? Those look dry. I do'nt like the cracking on the sides of the tread block.

https://www.tireamerica.com/resource/tire-date-code

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

daslog posted:

The dealer where my wife works sells every new car as MSRP. Buyers don't seem to mind.

Currently that is actually a Very Good Price.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Lets be serious for a minute here: it's a cosmetic accessory with a flimsy plausible deniability excuse that it's functional.

No trunk-mounted wing is going to be all that effective, as it would crush the trunk lid. Look at how rear wings that provide actual downforce are mounted. It's not on sheet metal.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Munkeylord posted:

Yea, dont do anything to it if it's under warranty. If you plan on keeping this vehicle for a while, after the warranty is over insure the engine. Car is fun to drive for sure

This isn't how car warranties work.

There is no conceivable way that installing mudflaps can be construed as a contributing cause to a future engine problem.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Munkeylord posted:

I was referring to the Cobb access port thing

Unless you do something fantastically stupid with it that is also not an issue.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

rickiep00h posted:

Y'all I got a new windshield in my ancient-rear end Legacy and it's like seeing the world in 8k.

New windshield day is always awesome.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

What year? Are they still using water based paints? (because that pic looks very "every german car in the early 2000s")

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yikes.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

jamal posted:

An over 30 guy who uses it to commute?

It seems like hobbesmaster is confusing this with an WRX STi?

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Fingat posted:

Was that thing stored in a mudpuddle?

All you have to do is live in a state that salts the road, don't wash the undercarriage and park on grass/dirt/improperly drained gravel all the time and you can get that going on easily in a few years.

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