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bull3964 posted:Even if you clean, this is every northeast car that's driven in the winter at the 10 year mark. Yeah no. This is maintenance an storage problems. My daughter's 08 is on it's first replacement exhaust, cat back only, and has no unibody rot. Every time I've done suspension work it involves a BFH and/or a torch to deal with fasteners or those loving unit bearings, but the body is fine.
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Jan 16, 2022 23:57
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hobbesmaster posted:Is there even anything you can do other than get an undercarriage blast regularly in the winter? That and not parking it on a porous surface. If you can't do both of those things, end even if you can, get it undercoated at a ziebart/waxoil type place. The stuff works great.
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Jan 16, 2022 23:59
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That looks VERY correct.
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Jan 21, 2022 01:26
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SwissArmyDruid posted:On the off chance that anyone has ever swapped in a pair of Bosch BC1114s on their rear brakes, did yours come with only one squealer pad, or two? Trying to get a straight answer, but it's the weekend. (2013 impreza hatchback) I don't know that model in particular, but things including Bosch pads typically only come with one. PER SIDE. Are you saying you got 3 regular pads and one with an indicator on it? If so, your box is hosed up. If you got 2 regular and 2 with indicators that's exactly what I would expect for a one-axle kit.
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Feb 7, 2022 00:42
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SwissArmyDruid posted:
What the hell? They must have saved a whole $0.15 there.
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Feb 8, 2022 15:35
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The reliability of a 20 year old anything has more to do with how it's been maintained in the last several years than anything else. The vast majority of used cars for sale seem to be in deep maintenance debt. You need a pre purchase inspection.
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Mar 5, 2022 15:53
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um excuse me posted:The most annoying part are the straps vibrating like guitar strings. For anything larger than the photo I posted I would rent a trailer. That photo is from when I reframed my garage doors, so a decent size job, somewhere between 4-500 pounds of lumber. Trucker trick: give each strap a 180 turn and it won't do that nearly as much.
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Mar 10, 2022 16:58
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Could you use an custom tune to squeeze more efficiency out of the engine? I am not taking for granted that gas prices won't either stay above $5 or go back above $5 again due to any number of reasons. Considering every manufacturer pulls every trick they can to squeeze every last 10th of a MPG out of their cars to bring down their fleet average for CAFE I'm quite sure the answer is "no". At least not in any way you'd want to drive it.
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Apr 22, 2022 15:54
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But you can get my first suby badge for free: https://www.badgeofownership.com/UI/dist/
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May 6, 2022 00:42
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Sextro posted:I want bigger more bite-y brakes on my 2019 forester, is that something reasonable to get done? I see suspension swap parts all over, but brakes don’t seem as popular? When is the last time your brake fluid was flushed? For most people that answer is "never" and it really ought to be done every 2 years. Start there. After that, it's just a matter of pad selection. Why exactly do you want more aggressive brakes than stock? What is the use case? I assure you for everyday driving you can lock your wheels up to the point of ABS activation with exactly what you have right now with no problem at all. You just need to push down on the pedal and hold it there.
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Jun 28, 2022 15:45
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Sextro posted:I just notice fade by the end of a more spirited journey and want to address it. It's 3+ year old fluid that's full of water.
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Jun 28, 2022 17:07
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jamal posted:A big whack on the side of the lca is really good for getting the ball joint out of the taper. This. If they didn't come out your hammer wasn't big enough or you didn't' swing it hard enough. Especially if you already tried other things and sprayed them down with good penetrating oil. This is standard great salted north stuff.
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Jul 26, 2022 04:21
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DrChu posted:Yeah, I'm trying to remove it from the knuckle. The knuckle is a taper. If you've moved it at all its free of the taper. Time to look around and see what else is going on.
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Jul 27, 2022 14:29
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Could be burning it, could be leaking it. I just had what I thought was a couple quart per oil change burn on my daughter's 08 with 200k miles. Turned out to be a leaking oil pressure sender. It was leaking at high RPMs only, and therefore the leaked oil was being blown right off the bottom of the car on the highway so it didn't even really look like it was leaking. The only reason it was noticed was because the pan was being preemptively replaced (looked like it was ready to rot through). It has made it to nearly it's next oil change since this repair and it's still right where I filled it to with absolutely no discernable oil loss. Obviously you need to check your oil more frequently (or it WILL be burning that oil soon enough) but don't resign yourself to "it's burning it and can't be reasonably fixed". Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Aug 3, 2022 |
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Aug 3, 2022 16:32
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CarForumPoster posted:I managed to bend the Schrader valve core in my A/C line hooking up gauges while not paying attention today. Went to autozone but the Schrader valve core kit they had has a different type of valve. I was able to get it to pop up in place by removing it but it definitely leaks a little now and I'm relying on cap (which has a seal) to keep the refrigerant in until I can get a replacement valve. It's probably one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Condi...ps%2C102&sr=8-1 That's one of the kits I keep around for this kind of thing. The only way you're going to find the right one is likely be measuring and comparing or just matching it up. As I'm sure you know the cap, even with a gasket in it, is not a long term solution and you'll lose your charge rather quickly especially if it's the high side valve.
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Sep 4, 2022 14:39
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm looking at a Legacy with a newly rebuilt short block I didn't know Toyota made a Legacy. You should not buy this and keep looking for that Toyota Camry or other inexpensive but reliable vehicle that was suggested for you.
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Sep 18, 2022 22:55
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Majere posted:Subaru is going to be the alfa romeo of japan arent they? Alfas may be partially still sold based on "soul" but Subaru is busily cashing on on their reputation from 15-20 years ago. There is not an unlimited supply and they appear to be quickly running out.
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Oct 17, 2022 17:34
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stevobob posted:For the record, and in case anyone gives a poo poo, I had both my rear wheel bearings replaced less than a week before warranty expired on my 2017 Impreza. Service at the dealer told me they go bad frequently, and local parts store couldn't keep them in stock. Subaru wheel bearings going bad? Who ever hard of such a thing?
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Nov 27, 2022 21:31
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hosed up idle with the clutch in on a Subaru? There must be one of these to cover every age/model if you look hard enough.
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Dec 14, 2022 19:33
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Iron Crowned posted:What is the failure rate on fuel caps? It's almost never the cap. Until it is. I've seen it. Something else to check: is your filler neck rusty where the cap seats? I've seen that as a cause a bunch of times. Do not use an aftermarket cap. OEM only. You cap is part of a complicated and finnicky evap system. Don't complicate this issue with aftermarket likely junk. Unfortunately there's not a lot you can do other than guess without a smoke machine and/or scanner that can pull live data that includes fuel tank pressure/purge valve status.
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Jan 24, 2023 14:58
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Kazinsal posted:Update on this: turns out there's an ECU technical bulleting for MY17 BRZ 6ATs where very rarely a P0300 code shows up on a cold start because the AFR sometimes differs between cylinders when the coolant temperature is below ten degrees C. So I just have to drive down to the local Subaru dealer and go "lol recall notice, flash my poo poo plz" A technical bulletin is not a recall. Which means if you want them to perform the TSB service the cost is on you, not them. It's possible they will good will this, but certainly no guarantee.
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Apr 8, 2023 14:48
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That's the problem. Don't buy any car with a CVT ever. They are junk and they are disposable.
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Aug 9, 2023 21:14
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And also that's the same advice you're likely to receive in ANY manufacturer or general thread when talking about models that aren't a Prius that come with CVTs (because Prius CVTs aren't the same thing at all as the garbage I'm cautioning against).
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Aug 10, 2023 13:13
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Wasabi the J posted:To be faaaaaiir~ Figure it out.
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Aug 11, 2023 01:30
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Arson Daily posted:Huh. I'll have to try that out then. NGL I'm veering pretty close to "I don't understand it therefore I don't like it" territory which is totally on me but also an unsettling realization of where I am in my life. Huh I've got it and it's not actively harmful but it a little weird to get used to. I like it now. It's not one of the things I can't live without like the bumping your turn signal to get 3 flashes thing vag does. Not sure that made it to suby because the newest one I regularly deal with is an 08.
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Aug 15, 2023 02:27
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hobbesmaster posted:From what I’ve experienced so far true hybrids have the only reliable and non awkward start/stop - they can just start the motor again by driving the engines with the electric motor. Surprisingly manual transmissions can also be reliable and non-awkward because they're re-starting when you put the clutch to the floor, not when you're already trying to move forward so you don't get the janky/jerky thing.
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Aug 26, 2023 21:17
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PainterofCrap posted:Sent from the other Subaru thread: Factory wires have entirely solved this issue on my daughter's '08 which was just repeatedly losing connection on a couple of plugs to the point she knew how to deal with it on her own. I made zero other changes a year ago when I did this and it's been fine ever since. I'm not sure it was actually blowing them out, but it kinda seemed like it based on how far they were disconnected now that I see what you're dealing with. While you might have something else going on here, remember that aftermarket parts have always been junk but are even worse in the last few years.
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Sep 6, 2023 18:16
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Cactus Ghost posted:how does one even pay $15k in a private party transfer? I've paid cash. Multiple times for way more than that for cars and equipment. I get that it's really strange for most people, but this is absolutely a thing and it's so not a big deal in things like private party equipment transfers. It's just something that happens every drat day. You show up with a bank bag (read "elementary school pencil case") full of cash. When you need a loan for $15k? Yes, I get how this is unimaginable. And I have to sign paperwork at the bank every time I take out more than $10k, and it's not just for the federal currency transfer thing, it's extra stuff for their insurance company saying they told me they do not recommend me walking out of their location with over $10k. Yeah, okay, thanks. If getting $15k tied up or lost is going to ruin your life you should not do this. There are very easy and obvious ways to pay for that level of safety when purchasing a car. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:50 on Sep 14, 2023 |
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Sep 14, 2023 00:44
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Cactus Ghost posted:I guess the easy and obvious ways aren't obvious to me. What are they? Over paying at a commercial establishment like a used car place. That gives you some semblance of commercial transfer/not gonna get robbed cover. But you're till just as exposed on the quality of the thing you're buying unless you have a real warranty (and no used car warranties are since Doug Demuro ruined it for everyone at carmax with the range rover, etc.....that time is over)
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Sep 14, 2023 00:59
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Catatron Prime posted:Real answer is a cashiers check from the bank. Nope. I would never accept a cashier's check for a car or equipment sale. They are much too easy to fake and have been for decades now. Most people have caught on to that. I was literally printing checks from black paper stock on a not-exceptionally-special laser printer that has special magnetic toner for the micr numbers in something like 1996. It's not new technology and none of the materials or equipment are controlled. It's something lots of businesses have used for a long time. Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Sep 15, 2023 |
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Sep 15, 2023 13:58
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Catatron Prime posted:I've never had an issue with using one or receiving it? Congratulations! Also, I've never been eaten by a tiger.
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Sep 15, 2023 15:59
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Guess what today is? That's right.....clutch day. Bad throw out bearing on the 08 with 190k. Local machine shop is closed so I have no way to get a flywheel surfaced in any reasonable amount of time should I need it, all parts had to be ordered so I just got everything because my time is worth more than waiting on parts while this thing is on quickjacks stuck in my barn. Also, OEMs are very aware that aftermarket parts suck and are charging accordingly. That's an $800 pile right there.
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Oct 20, 2023 16:08
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Cactus Ghost posted:i did not know that a CEL disables the cruise control lol So annoying. And jarring when you're minding your own business with the CC on going down the highway.
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Nov 12, 2023 17:20
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Catatron Prime posted:I thought the washers on oil pan drain bolts were crush washers and supposed to be replaced with each oil change to maintain the seal? They are, same as VW/Audi/Porsche. But you can absolutely get away with multiple uses if you are torqueing the pan bolt correctly as opposed to hulking it on.
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Jan 24, 2024 19:12
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PitViper posted:Yeah, they can be reused if you're actually correctly torquing the drain bolt. But they're like 80 cents in a box of 10, so I always replace it. I've got 3 little boxes on the shelf in the garage, right next to the 3 different oil filters for everything. Yeah.....I didn't mean "just keep using the same one". If you have a car that takes one of these just stock them, they're cheap. But also don't freak out if you don't have one right now providing the old one isn't totally deformed.
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Jan 25, 2024 02:19
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I'm not sure how the pedal can feel normal if the clutch isn't releasing. You really need to figure out if the clutch hydraulics are working vs. the fork/release bearing not working. This is a critical difference in the issues and repaird required. Open the hood. Back of the motor on the driver's side. If my kids car was here I'd take a picture, but it's critical to know which issue you have here and don't worry about anything else until you figure it out. But someone needs to push down on the clutch and you need to see what's moving under the hood and take picture. Tell us which parts are moving.
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Feb 1, 2024 04:23
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Edward IV posted:Had to take a video of the slave cylinder while I pressed the clutch a few times but I do see cylinder actuating and moving. I couldn't actually position my phone easily to get a good angle to see it pushing against the clutch fork but I doubt that's the issue. Not to say that it's impossible but it'll have to wait thanks to the upcoming winter weather. If the slave cylinder is moving and the fork is moving chances are pretty good the clutch is moving as well. Maybe the pilot bearing is completely stuck? (the one in the flywheel) But yes, you need to confirm the clutch is disengaging. I guess. Seems like no matter what you're pulling the trans. Or the motor if it needs a timing belt/sealing (easier weay to do the "while you're in there" jobs).
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Feb 13, 2024 01:28
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jamal posted:The clutch disc sits on splines on the transmission input shaft, not the engine. Yeah, my brain wasn't working with the right physics on that one. And I literally just did a clutch in an 08 (with a bad/noisy pilot bearing). jamal posted:On push type clutches (most n/a cars, 06+ wrx), it's not uncommon for the stamped steel clutch fork to actually just break where it pivots on a little ball. Happened on my legacy years ago. The pedal will still feel relatively normal, although a bit stiff, but the TOB won't be able to move far enough to fully disengage the clutch. Cheap part, not cheap labor. I think there's a company that makes an aftermarket machined one. You'd want to replace the TOB, check clutch wear, and maybe do a sleeve kit at the same time. I've changed that underengineered POS clutch fork every time on any of them that I've done. It should be obvious from the engine bay if it's broken. And I was trying to remember where you could see the clutch move from the top - I think I remember a pretty good view if you pull the rubber seal from around the fork.
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Feb 13, 2024 14:31
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It doesn't help that subaru hasn't made a car you can competetitively run in beginner/non-big-money classes since 2007. Although I guess we could blame the ARA rules committee for this too.
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Feb 22, 2024 00:20
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Catatron Prime posted:Curt is what I purchased for my Outback -- specifically this one that just mounted up on the rear bumper bolts and didn't require drilling into the frame to fish the mounting hardware up inside. Hopefully it's better for the ascent, but just keep in mind how the thing is mounted when you're looking at the available options. I wouldn't want to replace the rear springs unless it was a dedicated "I'm always towing with this" vehicle. There are definitely air bags you can get for those that you can, at simplest, inflate with a tire pump when your'e towing something and need the extra capacity in the back. They get fancier from there with auto leveling and built in pumps.
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Mar 1, 2024 19:59
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