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Dog Case posted:Hey so my GN125 has started bogging down a little bit when I go to accelerate after stopping, or if I rev it while sitting at a stop. But a quick rev until it winds up past the bogging and it will be fine again up until I stop at the next light. As the owner of the same model motorcycle, check your air filter. If it's the original, it might have just about disintegrated by now. I had a mid-range stumble on mine—right where the "power"band starts at 6K—and it was due to a degrading air filter letting in too much air, leaning out the mixture.
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# ¿ May 7, 2016 09:29 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 22:10 |
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Exactly... the Ninja Knock. First time I heard it, I thought I'd spun a rod bearing. 100% normal. Something with the clutch basket design. The newer 250s (2007-up) don't have it, because that part was redesigned.
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# ¿ May 28, 2016 07:27 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Oil pump drive pin? Now I remember what it is. There are rubber bushings in the clutch that get hard when old. The knocking is the freeplay from the old, hard bushings.
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# ¿ May 30, 2016 00:35 |
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Z3n posted:I'm not sure why/how that pictures indicates it's not gonna work though. It's the brake fluid reservoir. It looks like, even with the bars straight, the reservoir would be jutting right into the windshield at that height. Are these universal risers? It seems like an awful rip-off if they were dedicated F4i risers.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2016 06:40 |
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As far as I know, the pre-80s Suzuki GS model line had roller bearing cranks.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2016 01:02 |
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I've also had success with burping by tilting the bike to the left and right slightly. More bubbles came out from this, even after having revved the engine.
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# ¿ Jul 27, 2016 12:56 |
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cursedshitbox posted:Check the stupid glass fuse.(by the fan on gen Is) the one on mine popped time or two. I replaced it with a circuit breaker... Is that those glass tube ones? You have to be extra suspicious with those, because they can break or go bad at the ends of the filament, in the corner of the fuse where you can't see.
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2016 00:27 |
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I recently bought a brass wire wheel to do just that. Brass is softer than steel/chrome and better for not destroying the surface underneath the rust. Why do exhausts always corrode into a martian surface stucco.
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2016 03:08 |
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I suppose, as long as it's still relatively clear. Although I don't know how much of the "turning sewage color" brake fluid does is a result of dirt, or moisture over time. 4 days though, I would definitely have another go at it. A year, I'd be like, "ummmmm...... it's clear....OK."
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# ¿ Aug 24, 2016 17:17 |
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Flashers and turn signals work off of electrical draw in the line. LEDs have MUCH less draw than incandescent bulbs, so, the flashers will act strange if you change them to LEDs and they were originally incandescent. Try getting one of those electronic flashers, like this: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/lf1-s-flat-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/ Make sure the plug will match up.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2016 01:42 |
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Do you mean, brass? ...Wouldn't it melt? Do they make instruments out of bronze?? Now someone's gotta put a trumpet slip-on video on youtube. Preferably with auxiliary pneumatically-actuated valving so you get trumpet trills at anything above 7K RPM.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 04:00 |
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Sagebrush posted:a tappy engine is a happy engine! GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Slappy valves are happy valves. It's a slappy tappy is a happy tappy, YOU GUYS.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2016 04:10 |
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Chain is more direct (metal links) and is used to handle the highest horsepower applications. It's rare, but belts can snap, especially when the front wheel kicks up a rock into the belt's teeth and that gets fed into the rear pulley. But you don't have to adjust belts, because they have an automatic tensioner pulley. You have to oil and adjust chains as the metal "stretches" (the rollers wear down, creating more space in between the links). Shaft drive has a torque drive problem where, while accelerating, the bike has a mild tendency to want to lean over to the right or left (I forget which one it is). Same phenomenon as propeller-driven aircraft. It's not very pronounced, but you notice it if you're in the middle of a turn, leaned over, then twist the throttle. Shaft drive is the most maintenance-free of all, though.
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# ¿ Mar 7, 2017 07:42 |
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When selecting an oil that isn't a motorcycle-specific oil, the thing you want to watch out for is a circle-shaped seal on the back of the carton, where all the information is. This is the API Service seal. The circle is divided into three parts: an upper section, a smaller circle in the middle, and a lower section. When you are selecting an oil for your motorcycle, you want the section on the bottom to be blank. Definitely avoid oil which has the words "ENERGY CONSERVING" in this bottom section.
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2017 20:22 |
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Yeah, that's the main thing... Belts aren't as strong as chains, so they need to be wider to compensate.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2017 11:48 |
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Schroeder91 posted:I've been using Rotella T triple protection 15W-40 oil and it's been good but today when I went to buy some at Walmart they didn't have it, and it looked like all the Rotella bottles are different. I picked up Rotella T4 15W-40 and was comparing it to the old oil I have. "K" comes after "J"... sounds like they had to meet new standards, or just refresh the certification. As long as the bottom section of the circle still has nothing in it, it should still be good for wet clutches. I don't know if they changed any of the formulation that made it so attractive to motorcyclists, though. I'm changing my oil today and I have the same two bottles of Rotella oil: the new T4 and the older one.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2017 12:10 |
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I remember seeing a belt pulley tensioner on some Buell a long time ago. Or maybe it was just some kind of idler pulley? They could probably make one for chains if they really wanted to. But the continually changing suspension geometry might make the engineering too tricky for them to do anything except groan "whoooo caaaaareesss" in an accountant's monotone.
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# ¿ Apr 6, 2017 01:35 |
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We called my grandpappy "Screwtooth" because he'd used his dentures as a die for the cedar bolts on his Appalachian-style cafe racer (Ducati bevel drive 350 if you must know) He was a hit down at Jo's, but I think Smelly Pete and his RnineT with the maple syrup still gas tank continues to hold the most props. They got a photo of it on the wall, next to the 12-pointer with handlebars for antlers.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2017 22:45 |
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Hey! You never let us (me) know how that 15T front sprocket is working out! Can it still pull on the highway?
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2017 22:57 |
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Dog Case posted:Kinda. I have to lay down to hold speed up some of the bigger hills around here but I had to do that with the stock sprocket anyway and I can cruise along at 55 without feeling like the engine is going to buzz itself apart. Thanks. If the drop in acceleration isn't too bad I might try it when I replace my chain soon. (There's that big valley from around 48 - 57 where you're not in the powerband and it takes, like 10 seconds to get any kind of appreciable power again)
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2017 18:06 |
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If that's not a tube tire, sure. Repair it the same way you would repair a car tire. There's a special kind of patch called a mushroom patch that is especially good for motorcycle tires, but it's more expensive than a normal patch.
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# ¿ May 17, 2017 13:08 |
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"Patch" just as in "patch up"; technically, it's just those gooey strings or the mushroom plugs. "Plug" is better. I need to get some mushroom ones. Edit: Wait a second... there are two types of mushroom plugs. One are these little mushroom buttons that are inserted with some kind of gun? I'm referring to the much bigger, flatter mushrooms. Slide Hammer fucked around with this message at 05:41 on May 18, 2017 |
# ¿ May 18, 2017 05:32 |
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I don't know....... that looks like way too clean of a cut. I have a deteriorating cover now (also cheap) and the rips created by degradation due to UV exposure are a lot more ragged than that, like tears instead of cuts. Mine is (or, was) made out of some kind of green plastic/vinyl with soft backing.
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# ¿ May 23, 2017 12:48 |
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dumb. posted:The non-painted black parts on my CB300 were all dried and gray looking, rubbed some of this on and it worked wonders How long does that last? I'm under the impression that that has to be continually reapplied, whereas with Sagebrush's recommendation, the plastic is completely resurfaced.
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# ¿ Jun 25, 2017 23:38 |
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EX250s have something called a coasting enricher system. It's the small apparatus in the lower left corner of the picture in this link, with the "B" "C" and "D" labels in close proximity to each other: http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b267ff8700223e4790680/carburetor I know you said he cleaned the carbs, but maybe he didn't clean this part, or the diaphragm there has a tear.
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# ¿ Jul 26, 2017 00:59 |
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Yeah, the main trick to pulling axles is: 1. Proper support of the wheel so that the axle isn't dragging on anything as you attempt to pull it out. Even a slight deflection can have massive drag. 2. Twisting the axle as you pull it out, if you can
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2017 12:31 |
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I've been experiencing something weird with my Reserve setting. ON works fine, but RES makes the bike buck and surge like it's running out of gas, even with a full tank. Could RES's inlet tube be... ..clogged or what? (How could that happen to just the RES tube? It's weird that ON works fine and RES doesn't.) The bike is a typical Ninjette.
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# ¿ Aug 5, 2017 22:18 |
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I keep forgetting how drat nice the EX250 looks nakeified. Isn't that an official model somewhere in the world? The Impulse? ...???
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2017 03:55 |
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Spray some kind of lubricant. Silicone spray, white lithium grease, PTFE dry spray... WD-40 isn't a lubricant, but it might dissolve any kind of build-up that is forming in there... chase it with a lubricant. The ultimate lubricant for that kind of thing is graphite powder, but it's messy and difficult to use. Expensive too, if you don't want to just grind away at the center of a pencil. Slide Hammer fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Oct 6, 2017 |
# ¿ Oct 6, 2017 22:36 |
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The graphite-infused lock fluid is a good choice... it's tough to get it where you want it to be when you have those tubes that are 98% air and 2% dry powder. One wrong squeeze and it shoots a cloud of graphite all over your controls.
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2017 03:06 |
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wtf are you guys talking about? Coca Cola also causes WEIGHT GAIN which is why so many American bikes are overweight #SodaTax
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2017 20:09 |
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This is slightly off-topic, but has anyone ridden the NYC subway system? The newer subway cars sound like they have 3 distinct gears. I don't know what that would be called with an electric motor. Phases?
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# ¿ Oct 20, 2017 21:34 |
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The ninja 250's fan will stay on when you turn the key off, if the needle is over 75% of the heat range. The obvious solution, however, is to turn the engine off 1 half-mile from home, coasting and paddling into your driveway. I've heard of a guy who undid the access cap to the crankshaft bolt en route and then coasting this way while bent over and rapidly turning a ratchet on it, but maybe that's going overboard, maybe.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2017 02:14 |
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I've got a crazy notion befitting a post here. My motorcycle is a single-cylinder bike. Because of this, the chain has worn unevenly. The chain wears unevenly, because the areas of wear are synchronized with the power pulses in the piston movement cycle, when that area of the chain passes over the output sprocket connected to the gearbox. Could I get even chain wear... ...if I were to advance the chain on the output sprocket by 1/4th of the chain's length???
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2017 03:38 |
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Just when I thought I could get a handle on my life...
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2017 20:00 |
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I don't know, maaan... Ooh, I'm out of Benjamins. What am I gonna light up my blunt with?? This sucks! Everything sucks.
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# ¿ Nov 11, 2017 20:24 |
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I remember Suzukis being regarded as the most reliable self-oiling two strokes (funny enough, what with that recent opinion in the other thread).
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# ¿ Dec 7, 2017 03:23 |
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I used water and aluminum foil. Worked wonders with the rusty front fender of my GN 125. Although, keep in mind that when chrome pits, the pits will still be there when you rub away the rust. Little black marks/holes. Aluminum foil will also scratch chrome lightly... might want to take very fine grit sandpaper to it afterward. I think the story of aluminum foil chemically reacting with rust to create an oxide on the surface of chrome it rubs is bogus, because aluminum foil is covered in a thin layer of wax. But that's just my intuition.
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# ¿ Dec 22, 2017 03:01 |
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Linking for anyone who wants to buy a handy one: https://www.google.com/search?q=muji+screwdriver+set
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2018 19:38 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 22:10 |
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Do they make a motorcycle version of the Wink mirror that was offered in the BMW 2002?
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2018 03:35 |