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Slung Blade posted:The exact same thing happened to me, except the hammer was from House of Tools (a theoretically reputable dealer) and it cost me 20 bucks. The handle was only half inserted into the hafting hole and there was a 3/4" plug of epoxy on top. My HF drilling hammer (actually I may have got it from Northern Tool) was similar. Handle only halfway through, big plug of epoxy that broke. As a stopgap, I stuck the head on the handle upside-down (it fit better that way) to get through the day until I could shave the top of the handle down and fix it properly. But now I can't get the head back off.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Jan 29, 2011 04:19
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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inspire posted:Anyone bought/used the cordless Ryobi +1 range? Thinking about getting a starter kit for an upcoming job. http://www.ryobitools.com/lithium/ I hear the new Lithium batteries are much better, and do work in the older-model tools (you will have to get a new charger, though).
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Feb 25, 2011 21:04
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Went out today intending to go to Harbor Freight and get a cheap corded drill for shop work, but stopped at the pawn shop up the road first and paid $5 more for this instead: Similar fairly-wimpy specs to the HF one, including the little knob on the trigger to adjust maximum speed and the button to lock the trigger running, but a keyed chuck (I've had bits slip in the keyless chuck of my cordless), and made in West Germany instead of China. Then I had to go by the hardware store and get a chuck key for it. First thing I drilled a hole in when I got home was the chuck key, so I could twist-tie it to the drill's cord. Speaking of chucks, why hasn't anybody combined the two types? Have the keyless grip on it for light work/hex shafts, and the gear teeth on top in case you feel the need to really crank it down.
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Mar 8, 2011 01:32
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Hypnolobster posted:The really good keyless chucks, however, don't need keys. Also, the back of the card the chuck key came on says "do not start drill with key in chuck." I think anybody who actually needed to be told that would be incapable of reading the warning and really should not be trusted with power tools.
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Mar 8, 2011 02:55
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Remember my old-rear end Bosch drill? I put it to some actual use today. Despite being fairly underpowered by modern standards with its 3.3A motor, it snapped a 7/32" and the next size down drill bit, as well as twisting the head right off a wood screw. It's powerful enough for my purposes.
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Mar 12, 2011 04:36
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truncated aardvar posted:Time for some harder bits. What on earth were you drilling? Just some thick-wall 1" square tube. The bits did come in a big set with the Ryobi cordless toolkit, and look pretty grainy on the broken surfaces. My drill is too tough for cheap bits, apparently.
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Mar 12, 2011 11:14
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ixo posted:However I'll be mowing a quarter acre that isn't totally level, and the wife isn't on board with mulching the clippings. (No offense to the masochists with postage-stamp yards who love their reel mowers, that's just my experience.) edit: my roommate suggests you take inspiration from the century before last and rent a goat. Surely somebody nearby keeps goats, and apparently renting livestock to mow and fertilize your lawn is a thing that happens these days. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 03:45
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Bad Munki posted:Is there a corded battery-pack adapter? Like, an AC-DC transformer that runs off 120VAC and plugs in in place of a battery? There are ways to cordify your cordless tools. Basically gut a dead battery pack and solder some wires from it to the charger. A plug somewhere along the line is nice but not essential. There's an Instructable for it. Or just have two batteries, charge one while using the other, and rebuild them/replace with the new lithium hotness when they wear out. In my experience, a Sawzall-type recip saw is one of the few tools you should duplicate -- cordless version matching your drill to take to the junkyard to help with stubborn bolts, and the real Milwaukee-brand thing for the shop in case you ever need to cut a car in half in the driveway. On the other hand, the cordless angle grinders, while interesting, don't look very efficient. They're probably enough for a cutoff in the field, though. Of course, by that reasoning, a little HVAC-repairman-size oxyacetylene rig would be the best mobile tool -- gas axe to replace the saws, and you can weld/braze things back together with it too. If you're of the offroad persuasion, a cordless Sawzall, beefy jumper cables, and SMAW rods should be in the emergency kit. Sort of the duct tape/WD-40 joke taken to its logical extreme. (You may want to upgrade your alternator.) Edit: also I will never not recommend a short-handled three-pound drilling hammer. An essential part of any toolkit. You think you'd never use it, but once you have one it's always the first thing you grab (be sure to get wrenches/ratchets with a no-questions lifetime warranty; the main use of the minisledge is tight-spaces breaker bar). Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Jul 20, 2013 |
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Jul 20, 2013 07:48
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I got this thing for Christmas. It's a tiny belt sander for sharpening knives and things. Has angle guides for all the popular knife/scissors bevels, or you can take the guide off to hone your axe/shovel/lawnmover. Opinions? Looks interesting. Of course I'll test it on the $20 Swiss Army knives before putting the Benchmade to it. Even if it's too much for the fine cutlery, it'll be better for the axe/shovel/mower than the bastard file and angle grinder. It came with coarse, medium, and fine belts, and I can't stop laughing at it -- "coarse" is 80-grit, "medium" is 220, and "fine" is six goddamn thousand. Bit of a gap there -- you've got "carving a knife from an ingot," "smoothing out the lumps left by the 80-grit," and "razor strop." I'd prefer 1000 or so for "fine" on pretty much everything except my straight razor, and I sharpen that on a hank of old blue jeans. In other news, my little brother has become a bit of an axe connoisseur. He fixed up Granddad's old 3-pound axe, and bought a new fancy US-made-for-umpteen-generations 2-pounder pack axe. The fancy one's handle is a bit shorter than he'd like, but he figures he'll break it eventually and then re-handle it to his liking. I reclaimed my good ol' Harbor Freight 4-pound felling axe today, since he has enough axes. We dared each other to take stewardship of Other Grandpa's double-bit axe. I readily gave it up, saying "that thing scares me;" he insulted my masculinity but didn't seem too hot on using it either. So now we each have two axes; he has the heirloom little axe and the hatchet writ large; I have a six-pound fire axe (it was $20 and I had dreams of a TF2 Pyro costume) and a 4-pound felling axe. Amusingly, we both own beefy chainsaws -- his a 24" Husky, mine the 18" Poulan Pro he gave up on -- but axes are fun and the saws aren't so good at splitting wood for the backyard firepit. The fancy axe is awesome. You got your standard axe with a bevel and an edge, right? The fancy axe is shaped more like a straight razor, a single hollow-ground surface from eye to edge. He's been obsessing over sharpening Grandpa's axe for weeks, and still can't get it to stick in the endgrain of the log he uses as a base for splitting firewood; the fancy axe stands on its own after being dropped from six inches under its own weight.
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Dec 26, 2013 09:40
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Delivery McGee posted:I got this thing for Christmas. It's a tiny belt sander for sharpening knives and things. Has angle guides for all the popular knife/scissors bevels, or you can take the guide off to hone your axe/shovel/lawnmover. I'm seriously considering using this thing with the 6k grit belt to touch up my actual razor -- it's an antique and has a little ding in the edge that the strop won't quite buff out.
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Dec 27, 2013 06:11
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Blistex posted:This is Stihl, and it's not that complicated! My Poulan is similar (yet slightly different). You'd think by now we'd have the technology sufficiently miniaturized to make a chainsaw with electric start, or at least the two-step no-fuss automatic-choke process like a lawnmower -- 1) press primer bulb, 2) pull cord. But no, the chainsaw is such that you have to hold down the trigger while pulling the cord, and the physics works out so that the only way to pull fast enough to crank it while holding the throttle is to hold the pistol grip of the saw in one hand and the cord handle in the other and kinda throw it; if successful, you have a saw screaming at full throttle and swinging in the general direction of your knees. Actually I don't think my new lawnmower even has the primer bulb. Edit: I kinda want to cut a hole in the engine cover and rig up an adapter for my cordless drill to use it as an offboard electric starter, sort of like how they start F1 cars. I mean, for all the effort I go through trying to pull-start it, I may as well use an axe. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Jan 18, 2014 |
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Jan 18, 2014 19:56
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I mentioned hammers in another thread, and it reminded me of a thing I've been wondering about : why is the 4-pound one-handed minisledge called an "engineer's hammer"? The stubby 3-pound drilling hammer had a clear etymology, driving star drills in tight spaces, John Henry-style. The heavier, longer-handled version seems pretty appropriate for the Isambard Kingdom Brunel school of engineering, or would be pretty handy around a train. Speaking of engineers, the TF2 Engineer has the perfect melee weapon/tool -- the L. Coes Wrench was used for hammering back in the day.  Note how it's all mushroomed to hell on the back faces because apparently they hadn't invented engineer's hammers in the '20s.
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Mar 28, 2014 15:08
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the spyder posted:http://www.toty.com.tw/english/02_our_business/02_our_clients_oem_odm_brands.html Dad gave me this for Christmas a few years ago:  He paid too much:  Edit: Wow, I only just noticed the reviews.  Edit: wait, the switch is on the other side. The gently caress? They're identical in every respect except colors and the back half of the top cover is mirrored, but only the back of the top cover  (well, and the $40 accessory kit).
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Apr 4, 2014 |
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Apr 4, 2014 21:58
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asdf32 posted:But you can be touching something with voltage without necessarily creating resistive current path (shoes should generally be a good insulator). See the high school science class demo of the whole class holding hands, person at one end puts their hand on the Van de Graaff ball, everybody's hair stands up, and then the teacher tells the person at the other end to grab a faucet. I was the only one that knew what was going to happen, and I was in the middle. I said "Don't do it, you'll ground uUURGH". Nowadays I wear lineman boots, rated to 14kV, because they're comfy and don't track mud in like the logger boots. Kinda want to go lick a mains power line just because I can. The electrical boots make up for their lack of tread by having super-sticky rubber; they're like race tires or rock-climbing shoes, as opposed to the logger boots with spiky hard-rubber soles. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Apr 12, 2014 |
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Apr 12, 2014 12:51
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Gruffalo Soldier posted:Has anyone tried reconditioning old power tool batteries?
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May 6, 2014 12:31
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Zapping batteries back to life with a welder kinda scares the poo poo out of me, with the prospect of exploding, hot, charged battery acid and all that. I suppose with the right protective gear this might be safe, but I imagine it has mostly been done by drunk dudes in their garage. Nah, with dry batteries in a plastic box it's perfectly safe (well, as safe as zapping anything with a welder can be). There's no venting of gas. I may have accidentally swapped the polarity in the first try (explains the one that didn't come back, I guess). It does have to be a DC machine, and you might want to pull the wire out if it's a MIG.
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May 7, 2014 16:04
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Pawn shops are generally overpriced, aside from the occasional time they get something so rare they can't get a price for -- I got a WWI Webley revolver from a pawn shop for about half what they go for on the auction sites, but your common tools/guitars will be drat near as much as they'd cost new. Though sometimes they have sales, so it's worth stopping in every month or so to check. Craigslist and even eBay can get you some good deals, if you find a seller too lazy to Google and find out what it's actually worth, and/or just wants to get rid of it ASAP, or in the case of eBay, has poor search-optimization skills. There's a website that searches eBay for common misspellings of the thing you want, you can get some good deals that way, because the average Joe just types a thing into eBay's search box and misses the typos.
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Jul 18, 2014 15:17
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tater_salad posted:When you say airgun, do you mean? Hmm, what kind of pressure do CO2 BB guns run at? Might be economical (though hilariously dangerous) to make a refillable cylinder and use compressed air. Or just an adapter to run the hose into the gun, carnival-shooting-gallery-style.
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Jan 1, 2015 23:29
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Bad Munki posted:Well liquid CO2 canisters are always right around 800psi in the bottle (until there's no more liquid left, of course) but I don't know about any internal regulators a particular device might have. drat, looking it up, you're right. The lil' finger-sized BB-gun 12-gram cans are ... you don't want to drop a box of 'em. I suppose a 100psi feed would give about the same performance as when the CO2-powered gun is covered in frost from overly rapid fire. Wanna make a mortar -- drop an airgun CO2 cartridge down a 3/4"-ID pipe with a pin at the bottom, see how far it goes.
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Jan 2, 2015 12:07
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Spookydonut posted:he reckons old engine oil is fine to use as bar oil (the tank holds 350ml and it came with a tiny 76ml bottle) Not really. It'll do in a pinch if you run out of the proper stuff in the wilderness and worked well enough for old-timers, but proper modern bar oil has additives to make it stick to the chain and such, and is cheap as hell to buy by the quart -- under $4 at Home Depot. It's one of those situations where the free option is good enough but the real stuff at $4 will make the $20-50 parts last twice as long. The saw just came with a tiny bit so you could test it without making a second trip to buy oil because you forgot to get it when you got the saw. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Feb 21, 2015 |
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Feb 21, 2015 16:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can do the holes in the barrel with your drill and some hole saws, which are basically cylindrical saws that can chuck into a drill. Just make certain you drill a pilot hole first with a normal drill bit, because hole saws can be really hard to aim properly. Every hole saw I've ever seen has a pilot bit in the middle. You can see it peeking out in the pic there.I've seen a lot with longer ones, though. kid sinister posted:I've used a reciprocating saw for cutting branches before. In fact, cordless ones are awesome for tree pruning. Nice for pruning things that are too small to bother firing up the chainsaw, anything over a couple inches really requires a chainsaw. Cpt.Wacky posted:For occasional use you can go pretty cheap with a simple $10 bow saw. I use one of those to cut up large fruit tree branches and it works surprisingly well. Bad Munki posted:Right here, but you have to shout either "Thundercats, HO!" or "BY THE POWER OF GRAYSKULL" when you go to use it: Speaking of hiring a guy to push a cart around: It's hilarious when you realize there must be some poor PA running behind Jay Z with the bottles for the gas axe in the intro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoEKWtgJQAU And of course they use the good ol' Milwaukee Sawzall for the actual butchery.
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Mar 30, 2015 22:55
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I have this compressor and brad nailer kit. I mainly got it for the compressor, but turns out the lil' nailgun's pretty handy, except it came with ridiculously long (presumably 2", though I haven't measured them myself) nails. This is a minor problem, given that most of the things I'm inclined to use it instead of a screw for are nailing together things between half-inch and 1" nominal thickness, so at best the nails stick out the back and have to be clipped off/bent over flat, at worst I nail the work to the workbench. Will it work with shorter ones? If so, how do I identify which ones I need? Also, how strong are those "nails"/bits of wire? Could I zap, like, five of the long ones through a 1x into a 2x4 and expect it to hold as much weight as a framing nail or two? In other news, now I want a proper air nailer, the lil' guy is so fun to use.
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Oct 17, 2015 21:55
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oxbrain posted:A decent oiled pump will run forever. I used to use a 1/4hp pump running 12 hours a day to keep a bank of 80 gallon tanks topped off. Lyesh posted:kilo- means 1,000. It has meant that since the beginning of permanent data storage. 1024 and friends come from memory addressing as near as I can tell, which is why it shows up in RAM and on flash chips. I'm not sure when it infiltrated storage too, but IIRC that wasn't until after the 70s or so.
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Nov 21, 2016 15:41
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I need something better than the death wheel for cutting steel tubing. Considering this Horror Fright portaband, to mostly clamp in a vise and use as a table bandsaw, but portable because ... I may need it somewhere else at some point. https://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-deep-cut-variable-speed-band-saw-kit-63444.html Aside from "never buy a thing that plugs in from there (my HF angle grinder is going strong after quite a bit of use, and gets less hot than my Makita), is there any reason I shouldn't? Also is there anything easier to get than muriatic acid to get the zinc off a galvanized thing and/or can you just weld it with a standard painter's gas mask? Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Oct 13, 2017 |
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Oct 13, 2017 14:27
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n0tqu1tesane posted:The corded version is marketed as a jigsaw replacement, since you don't have to drill the corners to cut something out. You can plunge-cut with a jigsaw. AvE's got a video on it, it'll be public next week, I threw $2 at him and got it now. uwaeve posted:Maybe something that’s able to move a bit? Sometimes the sawzall just grabs the thing and shakes the everloving poo poo out of it... And yeah, that. I'm waffling on buying a portaband to clamp in a vise and use as a tabletop bandsaw (but if I need to cut the exhaust off a car, I could), and I really should buy it today since HF has a sale on, but I also need the tiny chainsaw, because ... tiny chainsaw!  I have a tree that needs pruning, this'd be perfect for it -- sure I could use the cordless Sawzall, but it'd shake the poo poo out of it, or fire up the real chainsaw, but  for lopping off a branch smaller than my finger.canyoneer posted:Texas Chainsaw Manicure 
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Oct 15, 2017 09:17
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 I may have been drunk when I placed this oder at Countycomm, but surprise in the mailbox today! From top, is a keyring-size knife sharpener, bonus free dildo (the blank for a 2L soda bottle) in which was packed the pen screwdriver (take off the caps, it has teensy and minute driver bits, Phillips on the far end, slot on the clip end), and a breacher bar. Hard to explain, that one. All-purpose knife/hand axe/prybar/chisel/spearhead/brick of steel?
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Oct 21, 2017 20:05
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The big problem with submarine batteries getting wet isn't so much the batterry chemicals reacting with water, it's the saltwater getting onto the terminals and causing a dead short (making the batterries explode by overheating from the masive discharge current) or the seawater being electrolyzed into its constituent components, one of which is chlorine gas. Also seperates the water out into H2 and O2 which really want to be water again in a violently exothermic reaction at the slightest provocation even if there's not a metal fire.
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Dec 15, 2017 |
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Dec 15, 2017 04:26
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I have a set of blue Ryobi tools (drill, Sawzall, Skilsaw, and a silly flashlight), and they've never let me down for light-duty puttering around the shop. Well, the yellow NiCd batteries are poo poo. I bought one of the biggest lithium batteries last year and got the green death wheel for xmas, and boy howdy are the modern batteries good. The cordless angle grinder doesn't have as much torque as a corded one, it'll stop if you push it too hard, but CORDLESS ANGLE GRINDER. I'M GOING TO CUT EVERYTHING I OWN IN HALF JUST BECAUSE I CAN. But yeah I should get more of the big batteries, is there a coupon or recurring sale of something?
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Apr 29, 2018 00:04
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Dammit I got mine just before the price drop, I guess. But yay father's day sale. Edit: also some poor clerk had to lead me around the entire store to find it, they were sold out on the tool aisle, but there was one over in lawn & garden, because the electric chainsaw and weed-whacker use it. Edit:  Now that I think of it, it's long overdue for having the dead man switch/dorsal fin removed, as I did with the blue reciprocating saw a month or so after I got it. It's a drat angle grinder, it should be as unsafe as possible, right? Taking it apart right now, it's got Torx screws but luckily Dad gave me a screwdriver set that has all the weird bits as a stocking stuffer for Xmas, so I'm going full AvE on this mofo. Switchectomy (-otomy?) done. It's a mechanical thing, just a spring-loaded bit that physically blocks the trigger from being pushed in, just pop open the clamshell and pull it out and you're good to go.  Gaffer tape is what duct tape wants to be. Gaffer tape deserves a post of its own. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Apr 29, 2018 |
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Apr 29, 2018 00:30
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Duct tape is the handyman's secret weapon, but gaffer tape is the photographer's better version. Doesn't conduct electricity (silver duck tape does, ask me how I know), and doesn't leave residue when you pull it off. But it is an order of magnitude more expensive.  I paid $30 for that, and it's the cheap lovely off-brand.
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Apr 29, 2018 02:25
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My brother has a little pancake air compressor, and insists on completely emptying it every time he's done using it, and leaving the drain open. So when I'm at my parents' house (he lives with them while saving up for a nice place as his first house, not a bad idea) and go to air up my tires or whatever, I turn on the compressor and walk away while I wait for it to build pressure, and when I come back there's nothing because he left the drain valve open. That's something you only have to do once a year or so, right? And given that it's a cheapass Craftsman, it'll die long before rusting from within even begins to become an issue?
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May 6, 2018 19:58
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Fair play, but at least close the drat drain plug when you're done blowing it down. Also said brother bought his son a 50-piece metric and SAE combination-wrench set for his birthday the other day, and so I thought "hey, I'll get my last bicycle running again, ride bikes with lil' nephew, be a cool uncle." Not a single loving one of them fits the hub nuts. Aren't bicycles a universal (metric) standard when it comes to fastener sizes? How are there bigger and smaller but not THAT ONE in the set?
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May 6, 2018 23:57
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Got the bike all but working -- tubes hold air(amazingly, it's beem sitting for 20+ years), tires are dry-rotter all to hell but will do for the evening, it just keeps throwing the chain, possibly because SOMEBOBY kept twisting the shifter like he was revving a motorcycle the entire time I was dragging it out of the shed, despite being told to stop that at least five times. It's a good thing for him I'm the cool uncle and not his dad. Oh boy, I get to adjust derailleurs again! 
Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 00:32 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 00:30
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Verman posted:Derailers usually have little set screws to limit the high and lower travel so that you can't throw the chain off the lowest or highest rear gears. When they're not properly set, that's when they allow the chain to come off the gears. I believe most front derailleurs also have a high and low limit but it depends on what kind of bike and what quality of components are on it. Some cheaper stuff might not have those limit screws. Most Shimano stuff should though. Yeah, I vaguely remember how to adjust them, they're just a pain to get dialed in. Also it's a mid-'90s WalMart Huffy mountain bike, so ... it at least has a  paintjob with silver frame and purple ankdized wheels.15mm sounds about right for the axle nut. The tires are in inches, I forget if they're 24 or 26, will have to look. 700C is a fairly recent thing in the US, innit? And by "recent" I mean "less than 25 years". Front tire is still hard as a rock, rear has gone flat. Guess I'm buying tubes and tires tomorrow. Edit: if nothing else, there's a local bike shop nearby that I can take it to and say "fix this, for sentimental reasons", and they'd probably not charge me $bikes, because sentimental reasons. But I'll have a go at it tomorrow, thanks for the link. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 06:43 on May 8, 2018 |
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May 8, 2018 06:36
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Bike discussion has been taken to the appropriate YLLS thread, but I just wanted to mention that I read the fine print on lil' nephew's wrench kit that failed me, and yep, it has 9-13 and then 17mm. Also the reason I've always had so much trouble with derailleurs is because each of them was missing one of the two adjustment screws. Dunno if they fell out or were absent from the factory, but yeah. I did manage to get it to stay in one middle gear with what I have, at least, and replaced the dead tube.
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May 10, 2018 00:27
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MrOnBicycle posted:Bosch My blue Ryobi drill with the (formerly)biggest green battery does everything I need it to, but I impulse-bought a pre-reunification Bosch corded one at a pawn shop for $20. The thing's a beast, but has a bit of a wobble, as if the shaft were bent. Is there a chance it's just the bearings, or is she totally fuckerated?
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May 25, 2018 18:46
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Modified tools! Slot side is stock, I chucked the Phillips in a drill and went to town on it with a bench grinder to take apart a bit of electronics with deep screw wells.
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Jul 7, 2018 23:30
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Is Craftsman any better than, say, HF's house brand now, or is it all The Usual Scumbags same as with power tools? Anyway, I just bought a Craftsman 137-pc mechanic's kit at Lowe's to replace my recently-stolen similar kit I got for Xmas 20 years ago. Was trying (and failing) to paint in the size engravings, and noticed what appears to be sequential-ish numbers on every piece in the set. Is that serial numbers? Should I write them down in case it gets stolen again? Also also, anybody know of a cheap place to get those socket-organizer strips? I want to use a box I inherited from my grandfather, who taught me how to use tools before he died two days after my 10th birthday (and I'm named after him. Consensus is that he held on long enough to see one more birthday of all the grandkids, and I was the oldest  ) but I'm not an animal, or a person with good vision (hence the painting), I don't want to dump the sockets loose in the trays (It's one of those pentagonal-ish ones, looks like a kid's drawing of a house at the ends, with the cantilever trays in the sides of the lid).Is this as pictured, sans sockets? A buck apiece seems suspiciously cheap, and has me suspecting that you're only buying the rail and the springy bits are extra or something. OTOH, Horror Fright. Edit: Re: grandpa's toolbox: I may get one of my cousins-once-removed who is at the age of drawing houses like that to actually paint windows on the ends, and then bequeath it to him when I die. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 23:24
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Neat, apparently advances have been made in manufacturing technology/the patent expired since I was last stopping for them. Re: my stolen kit: I don't feel too bad about it, I figure I got my parent's money's worth. All three of the ratchets were varying degrees of hosed, from the 1/4 that had a few broken teeth, to the 3/8 that you had to hold the pawl to make it not click, to the 1/2 that ... well, let's not speak of the Poor Man's Impact Wrench (a no-questions-asked warranty and a 3-to-4-pound hammer are a beautiful combination in tight spaces where you can't get a breaker bar). I know Lowe's, when Sears was dying and giving out lovely refurbs, had OG Craftsman-style warranty ("you break it, go get a new one off the shelf free") on their house brand, does that apply (again) to Craftsman now that it's their house brand? I did get a wrench replaced at Sears under the old-school warranty once. It wasn't entirely "no questions asked," but I got a new one off the shelf free. The one question asked was "Jesus Hopping Christ on a pogo stick, how did you DO that to it?"
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Sep 7, 2018 00:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:"...and a shitload of duct tape" appended to it. Well, that's taken for granted, innit?
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Sep 7, 2018 22:45
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