|
Ok Comboomer posted:If you’re kitting out a full 5.1.2 system of brand new gear with $1k CAD that lands you more on the budget side of things than crackpot side, I’m afraid. I think you misread what they posted. They are looking for 5.1 or 5.2, not an atmos set up. e: w00tmonger posted:I'm moving to a new place and need to buy a new set of speakers for my home theater. Running a Denon s650 receiver and want a solid 5.1/2 setup for movies, but I listen to a poo poo ton of music so that's important to me as well. You might be able to find some tower speakers for a steal on kijiji. I think they are cheaper to get 2nd hand since they are so loving big that people can't really sell them online as easily as the shipping fees will be huge. Otherwise just look for bookshelf speakers. For buying them new, you don't really have that many options in Canada, especially at that budget. Amazon.ca is probably your best bet, or seeing if the retailer sells direct like Fluance, Edifier and JBL do. I'd just grab this Jamos s803 set and this BIC America F12 sub. Comes in under budget which leaves you some to buy things like speaker wire(16 gauge is probably enough), an RCA cable to hook up your sub and wirecutters if you need them. I heard that the Sony SSCS5 speakers(get the matching center) and Dayton Audio Sub-1200 are also good. Someone will definitely have a better suggestion than mine. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Oct 25, 2021 |
#
¿
Oct 25, 2021 13:17
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 17, 2024 00:23 |
|
|
w00tmonger posted:whats the place to look? bestbuy? Probably on their own websites or maybe amazon.ca Not sure if Bestbuy stocks any of those brands.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2021 00:42
|
|
|
KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:I am thinking about how I can get audio from my MacBook Air M1 to my logitech Z5500 speakers. They have a toslink input, so I would use an HDMI splitter, but my monitor is DisplayPort only (long story.) It looks like the USB to TOSLINK adapters are really DACs...but I thought using a TOSLINK connector bypasses the dac and would use the DAC on the Z5500? I am confused about this Depending on the DAC, you can turn off any equalization it does(direct mode or something like that) and then it would just use the z5500 DAC. I can't remember if the optical settings for the z5500 have a direct mode, but I don't think they do. It's just stereo, double stereo, movie and music right?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 22, 2021 17:23
|
|
|
Munkaboo posted:Thinking about replacing my still functioning Z-5500 setup from many moons ago. If it helps, most games don't run at 4k 120hz. In fact, I think all of them that do are last gen(ps4/xbone) era games. I don't think any ps5/series x only games run at 120fps.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
Munkaboo posted:My PC does though. Then you probably want something like the Yamaha RX-V4A or equivalent models from Onkyo or Denon that can support 4k 120hz / 8k 60hz. Make sure you are getting one that has been manufactured more recently as it will have the proper HDMI chipset. Otherwise you will have to send it in to Yamaha for a free upgrade so it can do 4k 120hz. Denon / Onyko just sent you an adapter of some sort iirc. After that I guess you have ~1000 left for a 3.1 set up since you mentioned reusing your logitech satellites for surrounds. I think getting a cheap pair of speakers for the surrounds would be a better option though. I had a z5500 too and thought about reusing some of the speakers but was told that probably wasn't great. Not that it would damage anything, just that even the cheaper bookshelf / surround speakers would be way better. Emotiva Airmotiv B1+ / matching center seem to be quite highly regarded. I've also heard good things about the JBL stage series, Jamos S803 and the Sony SSCS5(maybe get a pair of these for your surrounds). For subs, I have a Dayton Audio sub1200 and I think it's great, but I heard people here don't like it so maybe someone will have a better suggestion. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Nov 28, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2021 22:28
|
|
|
Munkaboo posted:I ended up buying the Denon S760H 7.2ch HDMI 2.1 receiver from Costco: https://www.costco.com/denon-avr-s760h-7.2ch-8k-av-receiver.product.100774339.html Yes. You said you were in a small room so power won't be a problem at all. Even a mid sized room that's almost certainly enough unless you really want to listen to things loud. The receiver will also not have any problems with 6 or 8 ohm speakers. For Subs, the BIC is good for a budget sub(but overpriced at 360), but the SVS is really good. I'd get the SVS if you can swing it. e: Get the JBLs. The entry level Klipsch speakers are known for being bright / having boosted higher frequencies. Some people really don't like it. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Dec 1, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Dec 1, 2021 20:36
|
|
|
Munkaboo posted:Anything else I should look at for <$400 for the C/L/R speakers? Not that I can think of. Maybe consider front or rear porting on the speaker itself? Hopefully someone can chime in with a better explanation but iirc rear ported speakers produce more bass closer to the wall while front ported basically don't have to take that into consideration. Front ported bookshelves tend to be a bit taller though since they gotta fit something else on the front.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 1, 2021 22:53
|
|
|
Munkaboo posted:Got my JBL 520 and 530's hooked up! Now do I run the audyssey setup and blast some infected mushroom? Grats  I basically just switch between 5/7ch stereo and Straight modes. prom candy posted:I should have mentioned I live in Canada. I don't think that model is available here but if it was it would probably be at least $750. Audio stuff is so limited and expensive up here. 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2021 02:46
|
|
|
Munkaboo posted:I guess I just Google for what the right crossover frequency is for these? They are at 80 right now. 80hz is probably a safe bet. Might be able to set it a bit lower but it shouldn't matter too much. If it sounds good at 80, it's fine. iirc the logitech z5500s had a built in crossover frequency of 150hz on the sub. The z603s or whatever the replacement was pushed that even higher to 200hz 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2021 03:47
|
|
|
Munkaboo posted:Separate thing... I dont notice this in games as much, but I tried a few movies on Disney+ (Rogue One, Mandalorian) and notice that the audio pops/hisses/stalls for an extremely brief moment every so often. Any ideas what that could be? If you are running it over hdmi, it could be your hdmi cable. I haven't experienced this myself and I am only thinking of the cable as the culprit because I saw some youtube video recently about how poor quality cables can cause signal degradation and everything backs up for a bit or stalls. This is more common in really long hdmi cables ie over 12 feet iirc. I could also be completely wrong  If you are running audio over optical, it could be your source or receiver. Some just turn off for a while if no audio signal is actively being sent over optical, which can cause a wake up delay / lag whenever audio starts playing again. This would be pretty noticeable though as it would happen basically everytime you started to play some audio as you would miss the first .5 seconds or so. This happened to me when I would stream audio over optical from my old motherboard to my z5500. No idea about the pops and hisses though. I don't really have any solid idea what could be causing the pops and hisses. I guess try other cables / ports and see if you can use it for a while without getting any errors. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Dec 7, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Dec 7, 2021 08:31
|
|
|
SamsCola posted:I'm getting sick of not being able to hear dialogue and I think I need to change out my center channel speaker. To add to what people have already posted: if you want a center channel, pick a center with bigger drivers over one with smaller drivers. So in your example you would want the JBL 125C over the 135C. Also I read that centers with MTM(midrange, tweeter, midrange) set ups are suboptimal since the midrange driver's sound can interfere with itself or something. Maybe someone can go into more detail. idk what your budget is but I have heard good things about the emotiva c1+ speaker. Seems to be out of stock at their website though. But definitely double check your center channel and settings again. Make sure everything is connected properly, crank the center channel to +10dB (maybe lower everything else to -10dB too) and see if it's actually outputting sound properly. Also swap in one of your L/R speakers with the center just to double check that your speaker is dying / failing and it's not just a terrible sound mix. teh_Broseph posted:Supplementary material, not being able to hear words isn't just our setups' fault https://www.slashfilm.com/673162/heres-why-movie-dialogue-has-gotten-more-difficult-to-understand-and-three-ways-to-fix-it/ This poo poo is so annoying 
CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Dec 18, 2021 |
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2021 03:36
|
|
|
Kilazar posted:I have the Andrews Jones tower and center. I kinda want to replace the towers with a white bookshelf. And also have some matching rear channel The Jamos are supposed to be quite good for their price. They aren't neutral speakers though. They are U-shaped(boosted highs and bass, mids are a bit recessed) if that is something you dislike. Give them a shot and you can always return them to amazon if they aren't as good as your current towers.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2022 20:28
|
|
|
Incessant Excess posted:I currently have a set of Polk Signature Series speakers with a pair of Dali Alteco C-1 speakers for Atmos height effects. I'm considering mounting the height speakers on the side walls instead of having them upfiring as I'm told that's the best option for a 5.1.2 system. Since the Dali speakers are black and I would rather have white speakers on the wall, I was thinking of using a pair of Polk ES15 speakers for the height effects. I'm curious if all my speakers being from the same series would have a sound benefit as well or if the height effects are always so subtle that it wouldn't really make a difference and if something like the ES15 would be overkill for the height effect speakers. I don't think there's any sound benefit to matching the speaker brands(besides looks ) on the height channels. Just make sure you position the Polks properly and they will be good.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2022 21:08
|
|
|
GentlemanofLeisure posted:I don't know anything about speakers but I want to get a better setup for my current TV. I would like to get a decent setup for my small-ish living room. I will be mostly playing games and watching Netflix, and am not really interested in setting up surround, so a 2.1 or whatever I think would fit the bill nicely. This is what I have: For 500 dollars(and your mild dislike of speaker stands), you will probably just want to get 2x floorstanding speakers. Don't really have the budget for a sub as well. Something like a pair of JBL Studio 570s(when they go on sale for 50% off, which happens frequently) or some JBL A170/80/90s would probably be your best bet and should come in just under budget. If you do decide to get a sub, the Dayton Audio SUB1200 or BIC America F12 are generally considered the best budget subs until you hit the 400 dollar price range and higher.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2022 15:36
|
|
|
You could also get a pair of these ridiculous beauties. I wish I had the space(or need) for them. You definitely won't need a subwoofer with these speakers. e: GentlemanofLeisure posted:Do you have a vendor recommendation for the 570's? Looks like the lowest they've ever been on Amazon is $250/ea but right now they're about $300/ea. A bit late of a reply, but from jbl.com itself. It would have the best discount / prices when they go on sale. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jan 27, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2022 22:11
|
|
|
Agreeing with auto-on probably being the culprit. Especially if you are running it through optical, which has been known to have problems relating to waking up or wake up lag. If you can, just set your soundbar to "on" rather than auto. It won't use any more power than the standby / auto-on mode if it's not getting a signal. If you are using an analog output to your soundbar, you can try maxing out the sound on your tv and then controlling the volume through your soundbar. That might help with signal strength and help it wake up during extremely low volume parts. Some equipment just sends out weak signal. Some equipment has a lovely plug / receiver and takes a lot of voltage to wake up. Some equipment also goes back into standby mode after 5 to 20 seconds of not receiving a signal instead of being on for like 10+ minutes. This is why I kinda hate gear with auto-on that doesn't also have a simple "on" setting.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2022 20:10
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:ATMOS has been on the market for like over a decade at this point and it still gets treated like an afterthought Do you have any experience on how well implemented it is on games? From my experience most games do a better job of surround sound implementation than tv / movies, so I wonder if that is true for atmos as well. Gonna assume that it's probably not well done and an afterthought like you said, but I'd love to be wrong.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2022 19:59
|
|
|
Jolo posted:Question about the HDMI ports on these Denon AVR-S660H and S760H: There are 6 HDMI ports on the back but 3 are labeled 8k and 3 are labeled 4k. Am I right in thinking that the 8k ports are the only ones that are going to handle a 120hz picture (4k or 1080) while the other 3 are limited to 60hz? I have a PS5 which has some games that support 120hz and a PC hooked up to the TV that I like to run in VRR sometimes. Trying to determine if that leaves me with just 1 port for something else like an Xbox Series X. I am pretty sure that's exactly what it is. Those 3 hdmi ports being 8k60 / 4k120 (hdmi 2.1 with the full 40gbs) with the other 3 being 4k60 (hdmi 2.0) CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Apr 7, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2022 20:09
|
|
|
Jolo posted:Just got a Denon S660H and everything is working great. The PS5 has an audio format priority setting and it defaults to Linear PCM with options for Dolby or DTS. Should I leave this on Linear or use a different option? One of the workarounds we had to do to unfuck the Hulu audio when using ARC with our older receiver was to set the TV from passthrough to Linear PCM which ended up simplifying the audio down to 2 channels. Linear PCM with the new receiver through the PS5 still uses all 5.1 channels on a couple of test movies. Leave it on Linear PCM. idk about the blu-ray setting, but I don't think it would make things sound better.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2022 00:18
|
|
|
V for Vegas posted:He suggested the KEF12b over the SB1000 and SB2000. This is for a 3.1 setup in a 6mx6m room. From the few posts / data charts I have found, the 12b is actually pretty good. The people that have demoed both in home seem to prefer the 12b over the SVS. Does the place you are buying from let you do that? The SVS has much nicer features though, like the app and more connections on the back while the Kef is pretty basic. V for Vegas posted:What's the difference between a ported sub and sealed sub? Basically the sealed subs tend to be faster and more accurate while the ported subs tend to play louder and lower. Ported subs have their lower frequency roll off much faster in terms of dB output too while it's not as stark of a drop on sealed subs. But both of these only seem to be true until a certain price point because once you get to ported subs that cost 1500 or 2000+ dollars, then both of them are pretty close in terms of speed and accuracy. A rough tldr is sealed subs for music, ported subs for home theater / playing as deep as possible. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Apr 19, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2022 22:57
|
|
|
I can't find the 12b data I looked at before, but even glancing at this compiled chart of subwoofers from ASR shows that the Kef 10b plays louder at lower frequencies than the SB-1000, which is impressive considering it's 10 inches vs 12. I'm sure the 12b does even better. You mentioned the Kef is cheaper and he's probably right that you won't notice the difference. I don't think either option will be bad though so it comes down to your use case, budget and whether you want to get another sub later(you should for your big room).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2022 00:19
|
|
|
aparmenideanmonad posted:Since we're on subchat, thoughts on SVS pc-2000 (pro) etc. trash can style vs sealed or ported cubes? I'm in no way in my forever house yet and the flexibility in terms of sound (ported with optional inserts) and placement is really appealing to me. If size isn't an issue, then the ported with plugs seems like the best choice. Gives you the most options in terms of output and bass roll off. I don't know much about the difference between the trash can cylinders vs cubes though. I assume it would be just to get the same volume(size) but with a smaller footprint while just using more vertical space instead.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2022 01:01
|
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:SVS has really come into their own over the last few years From what I've read: SVS is good but those 2 are still better. Though a lot of people think that Rel is overpriced for what it offers and smaller companies like Hsu and Rythmik are taking their spot as more "audiophile" subwoofers while being much more affordable.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2022 04:08
|
|
|
SweetMercifulCrap! posted:My roommate is looking for a new receiver. He likes to run his PC through his receiver via HDMI, sometimes to only play audio and sometimes also as an extended desktop on his TV. He had an older Onkyo that could do this without issue, but it lacked the ability to pass through 4K UHD/HDR. He got a new Yamaha (TSR 700), but attempting to pass through the PC signal makes the video and audio signal cut out, glitch, or the receiver itself will glitch. We're both pretty tech savvy, but can't figure this out. My best guess is that the PC detects both the TV itself and the receiver and gets conflicted. There doesn't seem to be any way to get it to only recognize the receiver. Using any other device has no issue. It might just be that receiver/product line. Or it could be the TV? Have you tried a different TV or just using a computer monitor to see if the receiver still gives you problems? I use a yamaha receiver to handle audio over hdmi on my PC and it works great. idk if it matters but my main displays are still directly connected to my computer. My tertiary monitor is running through the receiver though and I have no issues when I turn it on/off.
|
|
#
¿
May 23, 2022 00:31
|
|
|
Agreed on getting a subwoofer. SVS SB-1000 or RSL Speedwoofer 10s are good starting points. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jun 14, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2022 22:38
|
|
|
nrook posted:Yeah, I was thinking of the SVS SB-1000. Its small size is attractive to me too, since I live in a midsize apartment. I just remembered: the SVS SB-1000 had a price increase from 450 to 550, right? If so, you should definitely check out the rsl speedwoofer mk2. Having listened to both, the speedwoofer was better in every way. Better detail and clarity while also being able to play lower and louder. The only thing the SVS had going for it was the app, which is good but isn't much of a selling point since I don't really find myself needing to change subwoofer settings once it's set up and in place. And now that it's 100 dollars more expensive there's no real reason to pick SVS. There's a reason that each speedwoofer batch they get sells out extremely quickly. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jun 18, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jun 18, 2022 00:51
|
|
|
Incessant Excess posted:I currently have a pair of Polk S50 serving as the front left and right speakers as part of a 5.1.2 setup. I noticed that Amazon has the ES60 on sale for a decent price, would that be a noticeable upgrade? I live in an apartment so I can't go super hard with my speakers but I wonder if it would still be a noticeable step up. Probably not a noticeable step up, especially due to your apartment situation. Just quickly glancing at the specs, the main difference seems to be that the ES60 can handle more power so it can play louder.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2022 04:23
|
|
|
doctorthefonz posted:Just doing a quick sanity check, I'm looking to do up a 3.1 system for mixed use--TV/movies/gaming. Upfiring atmos speakers aren't great. They are better than not having them I guess, but I wouldn't expect much out of them. Personally I would put that money towards better speakers and ignore atmos altogether. idk how big your room is, but you could get something like 3x Kef Q350s from accessories4less.com They will have more than enough output unless your room is absolutely massive. Just cross them over to your sub at 70 or 80hz. And since they are coaxial, you can lay the middle speaker sideways and it will sound the same. Throwing in another recommendation for the svs sb1000, pb1000 or rsl speedwoofer 10s for your sub.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2022 00:42
|
|
|
doctorthefonz posted:Yeah I took some rough measurements last night and the room is about 21'4" x 13'2" with 7'10" ceilings, and I sit about 11-12 feet away from the 77" TV. I saw those two SVS subs really well reviewed, should I lean toward the ported or unported sub though? Not really sure what the sound difference would be other than reading that ported subs are generally more powerful than their unported counterparts all else being equal That's basically it. Ported vs sealed mostly comes down to size and output. Ported subs are larger and can play louder and lower. The main advantage of sealed subs is that they are smaller. They usually have faster transience, slightly better note to note distinction(vs just loud booms) and generally sound more accurate as well. Of course once you get into the 1500 dollar and higher price point with ported subs, they are just as accurate as sealed subs so then it just comes down to size and output. I'd get the ported SVS for that size room unless space is a concern. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jul 14, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2022 19:56
|
|
|
phosdex posted:How do I go about picking a center channel speaker? I just have KLH Model 5s and an SVS PB1000 Pro connected to a Denon AVR-S760H. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GZrdsxrcpBw&t=1680s timestamped to the tldr part of the video aparmenideanmonad posted:Ideally you match the timbre of the center to the L/R fronts (maybe even use the same speaker if possible). Having three KLH Model 5s as your LCR would look really cool imo, provided you had the space for it(and also a way to buy them as a single speaker) CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Oct 22, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2022 01:20
|
|
|
Hippie Hedgehog posted:Where can I find this "data" he's talking about Earlier in the video, starting at 18mins. If you want to look at some other reviews / kippel nearfield scanner data he's done(not too many more center channels though), you can look on his website or just watch his youtube videos. Amir from audiosciencereview has measured some center channels as well.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2022 23:32
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:Is there a shortlist for second-gen (or third-gen?) HDMI 2.1 (4K120/HFR/HDR) receivers that don't suck? The Denon AVR-X1700H that was mentioned on a previous page was actually one I was looking at before. A bunch of goons have and have recommended the Denon S760H. It has 6x hdmi inputs, three of which are hdmi 2.1 that can handle 8k60/4k120. I think it's the least expensive hdmi 2.1 receiver.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 22, 2022 05:27
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:looking through crutchfield right now, the onkyo TX-NR7100 (I did see the admonishment in OP) and the Pioneer VSX-LX305 look like what I'd want in a power-user AV receiver in terms of multiple zones and HDMI outputs etc. any feelings about either of those? (actually, they look almost identical...) They are basically identical, except that the Pioneer costs more because it's the premium brand. Onkyo owns Pioneer. I'd probably just grab the Onkyo unless you really prefer the front panel design of the Pioneer. I was browsing those models myself since they were the least expensive options that can do 5.1.4 and come with Dirac Live room correction. The OP hasn't been updated since 2015 and the last AVRs with hdmi problems I heard about were from Denon in like 2020.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 22, 2022 14:15
|
|
|
prom candy posted:Because of my setup I can only really support bookshelf speakers and they can't be taller than about 10.5" (unless it's okay to put them on their side instead, can't seem to find a straight answer on that.) It really depends on what you are listening to and your listening position, but no it's not ideal. The only speakers I would suggest laying horizontally are ones with coaxial drivers like Kef speakers.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2022 20:15
|
|
|
aparmenideanmonad posted:Hmm, not sure if you have access to US deals, but 2x KEF Q150 bookshelf speakers on their side would be a big upgrade from your T300s and they're 50% off at $300USD/pair at best buy and other retailers right now. Use the rest of the budget on whichever receiver and remote setup meets your needs - getting something that's 2.1, can take your TV remote's volume controls, and also not be a huge boxy AVR may be the hardest part of this. The Q150s are 450 CAD at visions.ca with free shipping. They seem to fluctuate between 450 and 500 CAD when "on sale". KillHour posted:I'm pretty sure Accessories 4 Less ships most items to Canada as well. The few times I did check, they wanted an exorbitant fee for shipping to Canada. e: And just double checking, they want $573.52 USD for shipping a pair of Q150s to Toronto. No, that's not the total cost including shipping. That is just just for shipping.  The grand total is $873.52 USD.
CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Dec 31, 2022 |
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2022 01:39
|
|
|
BrainDance posted:On that topic does the same thing matter as much for the surrounds? imo not really, no. Surrounds can basically be anything as long as they make noise Feel free to use your current surrounds when you replace your front speakers. Just make sure to run the speaker calibration setup on your AVR so they aren't too quiet or loud in relation to everything else.The next level of effort would be to try to make sure that they tonally match your L/C/R speakers. By that I mean if your L/C/R speakers are voiced neutral, try to make sure your surrounds that are neutral too. If your fronts are V shaped, do the same for the rest. Or if you have a fancier AVR, just fiddle with the EQ for your surrounds until they sound right. If you still end up noticing that your surrounds sound different from your front speakers and it's distracting, then you can buy the matching surrounds from the brand and product line, but it probably won't come to that.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2023 19:33
|
|
|
Ryuga Death posted:I don't know if there's a better thread in SH/SC for this so I'm sorry for asking here first, but I wanted some speaker recommendation for my setup. This is mostly just planning things out for later. That AVR is fine. idk what your budget or size constraints are but I would look at the Micca RB42s to start with. They are quite small and inexpensive(and go on sale frequently). Sound is good too.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2023 02:52
|
|
|
Ryuga Death posted:Oh those looks nice! I'll keep them in my amazon cart. My budget is whatever. I just want to have a better set up than before. My current speaker set up is two bose 301s, pioneer sp c-22 center speaker and a Polk PSW10 sub. Problem is I have the speakers on the floor beneath the desk and it's not the best sounding for anything really. No, I don't know why it took me this long to figure that out. Yea just replacing those bose speakers with the micca ones should be an improvement(as long as you put them on your desk ). That center channel is good and that sub is fine, so overall you will have a solid system.Since you mentioned gaming, I'd keep the center. Just make sure to set your sound options in game for surround. But if you are short on space, feel free to put it away. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Jan 26, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2023 03:44
|
|
|
Ryuga Death posted:Looking at my desktop space, I'm not sure if I'll have enough space to put the center speaker. My primary monitor eats up a lot of space, depth wise. Should the center speaker be in front of the monitor? Is it okay to have the subwoofer on the floor underneath the desk? Just slightly under your monitor, angled up towards you. If this makes your monitor height too tall, then placing it in front is fine. The sub should be on the floor and is okay under your desk. Your AVR has everything you need, so you don't need to get an amp. idk if I would say that foam pads are needed, but they are inexpensive and certainly don't hurt. I use some. You don't need to get some expensive iso acoustic feet or stands. Maybe someone else can chime in here with their own experience. For other speaker recommendations, it would come down to how much space you have. Just to throw a few out there: Micca RB42, Neumi BS5, Sony SSCS5 - your budget options, with the Micca being the smallest. iirc these are all tuned with a slight V curve(boosted bass and treble) If you step up to the 3-400 dollar range you have a lot more options including: Emotiva B1+, Triangle Borea BR03, Monoprice Encore B5 or B6 - a bit bright / more treble. Kef Q150, ELAC Debut 2.0 B5.2(Elac has a few speakers around this price point) - tuned to be more neutral. I'm sure that I absolutely forgot some other good speakers.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2023 04:47
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 17, 2024 00:23 |
|
|
Ryuga Death posted:Dumb question but I assume nearfield just means being close to the speakers? Basically, yes. It means that you are close enough that you are getting more of the sound energy directly from the speakers rather than from room reflections. Select your AVR as your default sound device on your PC, configure it for Stereo and set the speakers to "full range". The AVR will take that signal and process it properly sending the needed low frequencies to the sub at whatever your crossover point is set at. CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jan 26, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Jan 26, 2023 14:03
|
|