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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I noticed Ubiquiti has the Amplifi Router/AP. I'm currently running an ER-X and a nanoHD. How do these setups compare? If I were setting up a new network in my home, would I be better with one over the other? I didn't see any replies to this (or I'm blind, going back several pages searching for "amplifi" only got this post.) I'm also curious about this as it seems to be exactly what I want. Multiple APs with hardwired ethernet backhaul and a couple ethernet ports in each one. Right now my aging Asus RT-U56N is slowing to a crawl when too many high PPS clients flow through it (think Mac OS Time Machine) such to the point it's kicking people off the wifi. I am extending my home network into a detached garage+office space and want a single wifi network my clients can roam between.
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Jun 6, 2019 01:37
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CrazyLittle posted:AmpliFi is their home-targetted phone-app-driven consumer marketed product. It's going to get minor security updates but unlikely to get any major feature additions or expansion beyond what's already been manufactured. The next gen of hardware is already out or is coming down the pipelines. AmpliFi is ~3 years old now. That's about the length of the product lifecycle for WiFi kit. Thanks for that readers digest, I appreciate it. Looks like I gave up 1-2 pages early. If I don't really care about new features am I locking myself in to disappointment? The sum total of the features I use are in the glossy brochure (static lease, disable internet access for sketchy ip cam.) Or should I just buy a ER-X and 2 in-wall/ceiling APs and call it a day so I get flexibility down the road? I will know more once I find out if I'm able to actually get an ethernet cord to my garage without spending thousand(s) of dollars. If I can't, then suddenly I'm looking at a mesh solution no matter what.
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Jun 6, 2019 19:26
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CrazyLittle posted:You'll probably be fine. SlowBloke posted:From what i have heard the core routing part of amplifi was the weakest point, if you have a cable/fiber line over 500mbps in download i would suggest looking elsewhere Thanks! I'm on 50/50 fiber right now because I just don't care enough. The more I thought about it the more I think I like the ER-X + UAP-AC-IW kind of setup. https://store.ui.com/products/edgerouter-x https://store.ui.com/collections/wireless/products/inwall-ap
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Jun 7, 2019 18:09
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CubanMissile posted:What's the go to mesh product for recommending to people who need something easy to set up? Google Wi-fi seems cheap and easy and Amplifi doesn't appear to be very well regarded. Google wifi is sketchy Google crap that doesn't want to work when your internet is down and you have to opt out of their data scanning. (My inlaws bought it.) I ordered 2x nanoHD's and an er-x. Fingers crossed. I realized that the inwall units cost a decent chunk more and I was trying to force them to be convenient. Reality is that I want one in a hallway on the ceiling and another in a room which currently has no drywall. Just as easy to install the frisbee/ufo form factor if not easier. $160/unit w/poe injector vs $170+$15 for the inwall HD.
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Jun 8, 2019 22:05
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El Jebus posted:So, I think my closet is getting too hot for my ER-X. I’d love to help it by having a small fan blow air through it instead of it sitting passively. Any recommendations for a fan setup for an er-x? I’m thinking tiny computer fan plugged into a controller of some sort, but I can’t find what I’m looking for on amazon... Why do you think that? Is the internal temperature of your ER-X climbing forever? Does your closet get hotter forever? The sheet for it says 113F, and doubt you're getting that hot in a closet unless it's amazingly well insulated. https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/edgemax/EdgeRouter_X_DS.pdf
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Jun 13, 2019 21:14
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El Jebus posted:The closet does get hot because we keep the door closed to keep the cat hair out and it has a hatch to the attic where the central air does it’s business, but said AC isn’t ducted into the closet... The closet isn’t getting to 113, but the ERX is getting close. I had it mounted on a board and taking it off has already helped. Something to force air over it just seems like it would help. The best solution would be to reroute all the Ethernet cables to an air conditioned room... but that’s real work. Excellent idea. That was going to be my go-to suggestion. Lots of consumer electronics get quite hot in their day to day use, but most of the time it's just fine. How are you finding the temperature? `show hardware temperature` is coming back as "unsupported" on mine.
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Jun 13, 2019 21:48
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Listerine posted:2) Since I rent, I can't open up the walls, which means I'll have to run this cable along the baseboards. Any recommendations on products I can use to secure it in place that aren't too obvious? Cable staples help keep things neet. Monoprice has what you need. I assume.
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Jun 14, 2019 05:00
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qntm posted:Hello! My home router is an Asus RT-N66U, which has a USB port, which has a big USB hard drive plugged into it, which I'm trying to share on my home network. Unfortunately it seems like this router only supports SMBv1, which is disabled in Windows 10 due to its extreme age and serious security issues. Asus' own advice to get this working again - linked from the router admin console when using the most recent firmware - just says to switch the SMBv1 feature on again in Windows. Support for stuff like that is always half-assed at best, as you are finding out. I wouldn't suggest relying on it on any router. If you never take your device off-network then re-enabling smbv1 (which is effectively plaintext authentication) isn't the worst thing in the world. If you do take this device out into the wild I wouldn't do it.
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Jun 16, 2019 22:53
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eames posted:I can't comment on their ARM hardware but the numerous forum posts regarding overheating and crashing don't fill me with confidence. I myself was hit by the "sudden death" Intel Atom bug with two of their appliances; they replaced one of them even though it was 1 month out of warranty but the second one failed way later. I don't know how long ago this was, but I think it's intel footing the cost of those warranty repairs. It might be a good idea to see if they will RMA it, even if you just ebay it after.
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Jun 17, 2019 19:09
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skylined! posted:It is; why would it have worked the last few weeks but no longer? It worked by luck. Spectrum - > router/wifi thing (WAN port) - > unmanaged switch or your other computer(LAN ports)
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Jun 27, 2019 02:55
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Oovee posted:basic setup, whichever the router suggests/top of the wizards list. Have you upgraded to the latest 1.9.10 (including down from 2.x) because that's apparently a thing you have to do in 2019?
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Jul 3, 2019 17:00
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Oovee posted:Im at 2.* something, should I roll back to 1.9.1 then? Yes. Apparently "everyone knows this" but technology is awful garbage. (I had several people tell me this when I bought mine. But if you looked at the ubiquiti website you would never know it, nor should you have to.)
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Jul 3, 2019 17:22
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Oovee posted:Downgrade to 1.9.1 worked, hooray and thank you. 
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Jul 4, 2019 15:47
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22 Eargesplitten posted:What’s the term for the type of fiber-optic cable that goes from a fiber TP to a fiber ONT? My last house had a cable running to the phone box but this one has a wall bump with a jack for the cable. I want to make sure I get the right kind. What's a "TP"? As the other person said there are a lot of different standards here and we want to make sure we're not talking past each other. I'm surprised you even need a fiber jumper for residential fiber.
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Jul 14, 2019 01:23
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Termination point. Turns out it’s a SC simplex fiber optic cable, so I’m going to have to wait until Monday for the office to open back up and hopefully they can get me a new one without charging me hundreds of dollars Duplex is just two simplex and a plastic clip. Remove the clip. You also need to know multimode vs singlemode. Though for your distance it probably doesn't matter. Google the wavelength (1310nm = singlemode fiber /smf). H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jul 14, 2019 |
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Jul 14, 2019 02:13
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Even Microcenter only has the duplex.
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Turns out I can just go and pick one up on Monday, probably going to do that rather than driving an hour each way to Microcenter. The tech didn’t mention a cost associated with it. The ONT is likely the demarc. Can you please post a picture of both pieces? Is the ONT inside a telco box? I would press for it to be free if it's not as I am really shocked they would have consumers touch anything with fiber. If they try to charge you ask them where the demarc is, if it's the ONT then it's not your responsibility and you're doing them a favor setting it up for them.
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Jul 14, 2019 03:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:The ONT is the modem basically, the TP is where the line comes into the house. I know what the ONT is I'm surprised they let consumers screw with fiber. It's so easy to make a dirty connection which you have no ability to clean. (I do datacenter level computer touching for a living.)
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Jul 14, 2019 04:28
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CommieGIR posted:Hence why most fiber companies don't. AT&T uses EAP Auth for their ONT, Google Fiber does something similar. Yes, its easy proxied by knowledgeable people, but your average person won't be able to. Yeah my frontier fios comes straight off the pole down the wall and into the telco box w/ ONT inside. It's "locked" but it's trivial to open. The handoff is coaxial for TV (moca?) + rj45 ethernet. I use both with no cpe beyond the ONT unless you count the cablecard inside my tivo.
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Jul 14, 2019 04:52
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22 Eargesplitten posted:This company (municipal broadband for a small city) has desktop ONTs now, they used to have wall-mounted ones. They actually expect you to unplug and return it yourself at end of service. Yeah dirty connectors (oil from fingers, dust, and other contaminants) make for poor connections. If you get it on the cable it's easily cleaned with rubbing alcohol and lint free cloth, we always used Kim Wipes, but even a paper towel is going to be good enough for these run lengths and speeds. This however won't clean the female side of the connector if you have jammed this grime into it. They make specialized cleaners for that, or you can quarter to half-rear end it by jamming the cleaned cable back in, cleaning, repeat. I extrapolated my single anecdotal experience with fiber to the home into how it must be done everywhere. In my defense I'm an American and it's kind of our thing. I personally would much rather be handed much more durable copper and have the isp responsible for media conversion at my premises than worry about the marginally more delicate fiber. (I also have had bad experiences with fiber/copper media converters.)
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Jul 14, 2019 17:14
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FungiCap posted:Does anyone know a good switch that is capable of port spanning/mirroring (homelab stuff)? It looks like Ubiquiti switches might be an option in the OP but I'm having a hard time tracking down a sheet that details which models have the feature vs which don't. Or if you really hate yourself, others, grab a used HP managed switch off ebay.
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Jul 16, 2019 14:09
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KKKLIP ART posted:So does anybody have recommendations for some direct burial Ethernet? I need to go around the corner of a house built on a slab with no attic access. Powering also isn’t a option because I tried it already and it keeps dropping Dumb question, why not just jump into painted metal conduit and run normal old STP?
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Jul 23, 2019 21:34
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I only need like 50 feet
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IndianaZoidberg posted:IPv4 and 6 are both set to "Obtain an IPvX address automatically." Print out your interface configs on all 3 devices and compare/contrast. Post them here if you like. Assuming it's all RFC1918 space there is nothing really to redact.
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Jul 29, 2019 18:13
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IndianaZoidberg posted:I'll try that next time I'm on that network. That will be in a day or two. The Macs have internet I think, but its threw wifi. This is littery the entire wired network for this setup. The problem is that you don't have any details on how the network works. Plugging in the cable and magic is the result of several layers of configuration working together. If you don't know or understand why then it's going to be very difficult to help you efficiently. This isn't a dig at you, but it's a huge knowledge gap to bridge for a corporate style network. (Or worse, higher ed.) We really need to know the configuration of one of those macs to help you out here.
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Jul 30, 2019 15:21
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KKKLIP ART posted:I know that for most home use a gigabit switch is a gigabit switch, but does anyone have a particular 8-16 port unmanaged one the like? I have a 5 port thats full and now have need for an extra port. Other option is also maybe to get a Ubiquiti US-8-60W for now. I tend to buy whichever netgear unmanaged model fits the bill. At 16 ports I got this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01AX8XHRQ
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Aug 4, 2019 02:25
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Roundboy posted:Cat5e. Made a stupid typo. Non-low voltage (house power /120vac) cannot share with low voltage (ethernet/telephone/fiber/signaling - including powered ethernet, it's only 48vdc unless you're ubiquity in which case gently caress you). You're probably thinking about ballasts and such which are to be avoided.
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Aug 8, 2019 16:05
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stevewm posted:For what it's worth.. The Verizon extenders do nothing but make a IPSec tunnel back into Verizon's network. Everything is sent through this tunnel, including data. Yeah I wouldn't trust that as far as I can throw it. Or even a quarter of the distance I could throw it. gently caress Verizon.
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Aug 9, 2019 01:56
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Warbird posted:So another fairly generalized question. Right now I've got a "NAS" (laptop/server + USB drives, Samba/NFS), torrent box (laptop/server), media server (plex in docker on laptop/server, docker again), PiVPN (RasPi), and a PiHole doing double duty as a DHCP server for the house. Are there any "must have" elements of the network I ought to build out? The only thing that comes to mind is getting a "real" NAS built and maybe something for spinning up virtual servers via Ansible or something. That's on hold due hardware/budget constraints for now. What do you feel like you're missing? Are those 3 different laptops or one big one? I would start using ansible to spin up your plex and torrent services and expand from there. You might be surprised how much you can fit on a single laptop.
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Aug 14, 2019 20:41
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Paul MaudDib posted:If I wanted to go with 10 GbE SFP switches, what is the cheapest optical transceiver pairs and fiber that I could use if I needed to link switches past the 7m copper limit? fs.com is where you go for cheap (cheap) optics. I don't know about this unit, but copper 10G has proven to have heat issues, but that's mostly on super dense applications (think 48 port/1U.) $25/shot https://www.fs.com/c/10g-sfp-plus-63
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Aug 25, 2019 07:31
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Paul MaudDib posted:$600 seems OK for 16 port managed. The ports need to match. Typically you will see them as 10/100/1000 or 10g. Note SFP is the former and SFP+ is the latter. They look alike but are different. If they make a 1000/10000 the that would work to interoperate with your 10/100/1000 ("tri-rate") SFP. Rj-45 is just the physical connector, the protocol you send over it is 1000baseT or 10g base t.
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Aug 26, 2019 04:50
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IOwnCalculus posted:And if you want to dive straight down that rabbit hole, join us. Bring money, lack of self awareness at the absurdity of it all.
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Aug 29, 2019 17:32
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They make a PiHole Docker container which should make the whole setup immutable so if it shits out you just trash the container and try again. You also don't have to run it on a Pi anymore either.
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Sep 4, 2019 12:25
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eXXon posted:Well, duh, I should have checked first. The Verizon ONT is in the front closet. Above it is a little alcove where all of the ethernet cables run to. Predictably, only one of them (the working one obviously) has a jack on it. The rest don't, including all of the voice lines. Presumably none of the previous tenants bothered to get a landline or have any of the other ports connected. Great. Buy a N port netgear switch, where N is the number of ports you want to activate plus 1. Buy a bunch of 6"-12" ethernet cables. Take the LAN side of your router and plug it into the switch, then jumper in the rest of the ports. If you don't have a router beyond the ONT you will need one. It doesn't perform NAT to allow multiple devices to access your internet connection.
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Sep 7, 2019 22:26
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Actuarial Fables posted:]. If the additional wireless access point you're planning on using supports Power over Ethernet (PoE), you could look for a PoE-capable switch If you need 1-2 POE ports you can also buy injectors for much cheaper than a POE switch. Only get a switch if you need many ports of power or are space constrained. They're never "clean" to install.
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Sep 14, 2019 18:15
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Sri.Theo posted:Yes the numbers do correspond, I just didn’t know that was how it worked, so thanks for the clarification! I’ve looked into Power over Ethernet and it looks like that will be a good way to go. Unfortunately the google WiFi device I was looking at doesn’t support it so any recommendations for a small Wireless access point would be appreciated- small because it may need to wall mounted. I snagged 2 of these for my house+garage and am 100% satisfied: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWW3P6K/ They come with a poe injector if you buy the 1pack. The narrow cupboard is likely fine, from your pictures I see plenty of room. Most of this stuff doesn't need as much space as you're thinking in your head, and they almost all come with screws to mount the bottom to the wall just like the other stuff you see there. I used this switch because it's got less depth: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AX8XHRQ/ than the other one linked. They make the same switch with fewer ports as well if you don't need that many. Measure out your cable lengths and buy those exactly for your cupboard. I use a bunch of 6"/15cm, 30cm, and 45cm cables in my home network. No clutter that way. Try and find your local equivalent of Monoprice: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13404 . I try to do 15cm=orange, 30cm=red, 45cm=blue, etc. to make them easy to pick out of the bin-o-cables. For longer ones (1-3m) I get them black. Plan it out, buy extras of each length and you will hopefully only spend maybe 20EUR more.
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Sep 14, 2019 23:50
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bolind posted:BTW, https://www.av-cables.dk/ for good, cheap patch cables in all lengths and colors. This is seemingly a great site! This is a great word, coming from English: Netværkskabel https://www.av-cables.dk/cat-6-f-utp-graa/ 0.5m for 12 DKK / 1.77 USD.
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Sep 16, 2019 12:26
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Shlomo Palestein posted:I got an amazon refurb'd Archer C5 (AC1200), and initially everything looked good on - on the wired connections. I have thus far been unable to get wireless to work beyond five feet from the router. This appears to be a common issue; I've tried 2.4 and 5 isolated to no avail, and I'm just about to return the thing. My question is: Is this expected from this model? I assume not, but I really don't want to go through the hassle of buying and returning another one if that's the case. All I need is a decent wireless connection in my house and gigabit ports for all the wired connections. Is there a newly recommended better option? I don't know anything about those, but you likely just discovered why it was "refurbed." (AKA stuffed back in the box after their bench test showed wifi worked at a range of 0m.) Those antennas aren't hooked up. I bet if you tore off all the plastic you would find out that somewhere there is a trace or wire that simply isn't connected. Return it and get a different one.
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Sep 17, 2019 20:21
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Not a great sign if the replacement is also refurb'd... Maybe I'll rethink "trying to save money." Just buy new, but don't put too much thought into the word "refurbed." Small consumer electronics aren't getting anything done other than a power on test at most assuming it doesn't look physically damaged. I remember many years ago a Charter "tech" (aka a subcontractor) came out to replace my dead cable modem. I walked him out to get a new one so he wouldn't get stuck at the auto-locking gate and watched him take mine, toss it into a literal free floating pile in his truck, randomly pull out another one, and take it inside. I asked him about it and he basically told me that's how it's done. Now, this is probably equal parts malice on the part of the sub (drumming up more service calls) and incompetence+malice on the part of Charter (not blacklisting the MAC, knowing less savvy users will eat the service fee and not demand a refund for the few days of outage), and it might not be true for the whole industry, but I think it speaks to the level of care places give lovely consumer electronics. Especially if this thing was "refurbed by amazon" that was definitely a return they had some desk jockey plug in, verify lights, and repack for sale. Assuming they plugged it in at all.
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Sep 17, 2019 21:41
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bolind posted:OK, I'm having a weird issue with a Unifi AC Lite; it only gets a 100mbit link on the ethernet port, where it should be getting gigabit. A vs B versus alphabetical doesn't matter so long as you were consistent on both sides of each physical wire. So if you wired the rj45 jack as B and the other side of that wire as A the you're hosed. This is 99% likely your doing and 1% the device. First order of business is a wire tester or reterminating everything that wasn't machine terminated.
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Sep 19, 2019 17:17
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bolind posted:I don't have a cable tester, and I'd rather not buy one just for this, but I think I can borrow one... Hey now, back then it likely synced up at 10/half instead of 100/half! The basic continuity testers are like $20-30 these days. You don't need a TDR.
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Sep 20, 2019 06:29
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Johnny Truant posted:As soon as I plug in my Asus AC1900(RT-AC68U) My 5 year old same make and model just poo poo the bed. I suffered with it for months before realizing my network sucked because of it. Bought a er-x and unifi nanohd and all is well in the world.
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Sep 24, 2019 03:40
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