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To avoid any sort of confusion on the part of people you come up behind, you should put loudspeakers on it and play a certain clip from this when they slow you down: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToFErVHAuLQ I doubt new rims will cost you more than $50/ea. any Explorer rims from the same era will fit as well, FYI. Just picked up a set of 5 of these for $200 for another goon's jeep project because the junkyard had a billion in stock and just wanted some of them out of the way. Their list price? $108 each. e: oh, it won't get out of its own way? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VFvzbT4Jb8 You know you want to. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Mar 1, 2013 |
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Mar 1, 2013 03:08
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 16:17 |
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That is probably where the police had the low-band VHF and/or CB antenna mounted. At least you can look at it and tell exactly where all the holes are, and how much rust is involved, because of how much patching (gently caress all) they did.
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Mar 2, 2013 04:29
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That sure looks like an NMO type antenna mount for a two way, likely VHF-high (2 meter), UHF (70cm), or 800MHz trunking radio setup.
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Mar 6, 2013 06:34
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That can wreak havoc with the hardening and other properties of the metal, and even result in breakage. Most (but not all) sway bars are one contiguous piece of metal rod, bent into the right shape to fit the car's suspension design and then treated to give them the right properties and spring rate.
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Mar 6, 2013 18:03
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Fucknag posted:If I had the money, I'd trade my Blazer for a Crown Vic in a hot second. Only issue is I'd really like it to be a manual, and Ford made approximately seven of those. Who cares how many THEY made, how many can you make?
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Mar 8, 2013 01:03
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If you replace the plugs and coilpacks now, you can probably avoid damaging the cat enough to need replacing it, unless it's already too late/you've done too much damage by driving it like that for a while. What I'd do - pull coils and plugs, check resistance on coils, replace plugs. If it continues, debug further and in the meantime, drive it very gently so it doesn't flash the light at you. This may or may not be terrible advise.
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Mar 12, 2013 23:00
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Even the vacuum modulator / cruise solenoid is present? Interesting, on most vehicles I work on, if it doesn't come with cruise it doesn't come with that, even when the ECU is capable of it. Generally what I see on modern EFI vehicles is that cruise requires swapping a steering wheel (or buttons), a clockspring, and installing the vacuum modulator. Done. Obviously if it's a DBW vehicle you don't need to install a vacuum modulator 
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Mar 14, 2013 18:06
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That radio probably ended up being used by an amateur radio nerd, they're known for being quite moddable and built like brick shithouses. I've seen more than a few repeaters patched together with a couple of those, iirc W1WPI's 2m side was based off one in fact.
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Mar 16, 2013 06:04
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Yeah, I don't think you're going to have theft/burglary issues on your street anymore.
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Mar 19, 2013 03:12
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Of course I cant find it now but when I was searching for diff options for mine I saw a place selling an almost 7:1 ring and pinion for the Vic Yup, the Ford 8.8 is well regarded offroad and is used in everything from explorers to CVs to the smaller fullsize Ford trucks, so deep gears sell. I know people running 38+ inch sticky offroad rock comp tires on them, with a diff lock, a doubler, and a healthy 302, and they haven't blown the axle up yet. AFAIK his only upgrades were an armored cover, chromo shafts, and a housing truss. I can't help but wonder what a CV with 6.14 gears would feel like. Probably snap your neck launching, but then top out at 35mph 
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Apr 15, 2013 04:03
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:My steerings firmish but linear. Could be because its the old steering box design? Yes, it should be. I know nothing about 8.8 setup specifics, but with a decent set of setup tools you should be able to do it. If you've ever done a bearing job on anything with an 8.8 in it at work, you've done everything except possibly the fiddly bit, measuring all the shims and checking the patterns and such.
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Apr 15, 2013 13:57
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If it was a panhard rod in the back before, there's a chance that the panhard rod was considered stronger, and the watts linkage results in a better ride but isn't as durable / capable of handling side loads. So the towing rating got reduced.
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Apr 20, 2013 22:47
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Hell with that, I own my second and last Cherokee, aside from the parts cars that keep showing up once in a while  I just keep trying to convince everyone else to get them too.
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Apr 23, 2013 09:52
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Turns out Explorer shafts are like 30.5 and 27.5 or so long and CV are 32.25 or so (both sides), so no luck on a cheap 31 spline junkyard shaft swap. Too bad, because I see LSD equipped Explorers at the yard with 31 spline shafts every time I go, and a cheap LSD swap plus shaft upgrade using a more commonly LSD equipped vehicle for a donor would be nice. Installing it - I've never done a Ford 8.8 but from what I hear, the carrier shims go under the bearing cups (on the housing side of the bearing) rather than under the carrier bearing cone. So you're going to want a differential case spreader unless you like trying to pound 5-thou thick round metal shims with a giant hole punched through the middle in between two pieces of metal that are pressed together, edgewise. That sounds like a recipe for bent shims, cursing, and thrown tools to me. Installing the LSD carrier won't require a full gear setup (getting backlash and pinion depth set to the right values simultaneously can be frustrating, in your case the pinion depth is already set, you just have to duplicate the backlash that was present with the factory carrier) so you have it a bit easier. Still, you're going to need a dial indicator and magnetic base for it, probably a decent 0-1" micrometer (not calipers) reading in thousandths of an inch, and a torque wrench. Doing it under the car is going to be no fun, but possible, if you were doing a full gear setup I would recommend pulling the axle.
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May 5, 2013 14:01
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murphle posted:Some, maybe all(?), of the master install kits for axles like the 8.8 come with a sort of 2-piece shim stack setup for the carrier bearing cups, so that you can build a stack of shims that sit on a little lip of a "guide" shim. Then you can drive the guide shim in with nearly reckless abandon, sans case spreader. drat that's nifty! Thanks a ton for the info, I'll definitely buy a set of those if I do an 8.8 in the future. They did forget to mention Dana style axles (they only discussed salisbury style and third member/side adjuster style), where the shims are under the carrier cones - more annoying to set up without honed setup bearings, but way easier to get in and out of the housing without specialty shims. Still, I really like that 8.8 shim design, not quite as awesome as ford 9/GM 14 bolt/chrysler 8.25 with their side adjusters but still quite nice.
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May 5, 2013 16:47
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Sounds quite reasonable, especially if that's in-car price, not bare axle dropped off at the shop price. I think you have it covered there - make sure new ring gear bolts and possibly new carrier bearings are included in whatever kit you get, or buy them separately on rockauto. Not sure if the shop will want those nifty split shims or not... e: also, I might recommend buying a new cross shaft retention bolt. I've had them round off and break on me before, and they're cheap, like 6 bucks for a bag of 3, it's better safe than sorry on something like that. IIRC the part number is D8BZ-4241-B but verify that before ordering. kastein fucked around with this message at 16:53 on May 6, 2013 |
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May 6, 2013 16:48
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ExtremeODD posted:I hit it a little with a dremel wire wheel on the worst of the spots and theres no pitting. There is a bit of raised spots but I called the gear shop and they said thats never an issue for them. Just went by the junkyard and got the front split bench from a grand marquis with 8 way drivers seat. Had to kinda make the wiring work but the seat works great, is way more comfortable and as a bonus the car always thinks Im buckled in! Planning on grabbing the backseat next week or this weekend. Make sure there is absolutely no rust on the machined surfaces for the spider and side gears, the cross shaft, and the machined face where the ring gear sits. Other than that, shouldn't be an issue. if there is any significant patterning (not even pitting, just patterning is probably bad here) on the ring gear mounting surface it's junk, IMO. The ring gear bolts don't actually handle any of the rotational forces, just the clamping of the ring gear machined back face onto the machined mounting flange on the differential carrier. So if that surface is etched, pitted, or otherwise affected by the rust, you may not get enough clamping force to keep it in place. If it's just a light powdery rust you should probably be fine. Definitely replace those carrier bearings, though. They're junk, I guarantee it.
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May 8, 2013 04:00
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Delivery McGee posted:It was a factory option, so it shouldn't be any more difficult than any other rearend swap; buy the center unit, throw it in. Though I've heard rearend swaps are second only to automatic transmissions in having to get it exactly right. I probably should replace the clutches in mine, but I'm scared to crack it open. Swapping the whole rearend as a unit including the housing is an afternoon job and any competent shadetree mechanic should be able to do it, at least if it's anywhere near as easy as Explorers are. I can have an explorer rear out in under 45 minutes if I cut a few of the more obstinate bolts. The crown vic has a more complicated suspension (AKA not leaf spring) but still, it should not be hard. Swapping just the ring gear carrier or a ring/pinion set is a very careful, precision task - it's fun, but definitely not something you can do without precision measuring tools. I've spent around $100 on just measuring tools for it and that is all harbor freight prices (they aren't the best tools, but it got the job done.) Replacing clutches isn't that bad, all you need is something to get the cover off, a small propane or butane torch to heat the carrier right where the cross shaft retention bolt goes through, a 5/16 6-point box wrench (damnit, buy a 6 point one, trust me on this) and the usual assortment of prying tools, small picks, poking sticks, etc. I've never put an LSD one back together, getting the S-shaped preload spring back in looks like it might be a pain in the rear end, but everything else about it is pretty easy and the worst part will be covering yourself up to the elbows in used diff lube in the process. You shouldn't even have to pull the bearing caps or remove the ring gear+carrier, so it's all fairly non precise work.
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May 10, 2013 08:06
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ultimateforce posted:I loving hate ads listed for $1. Go to hell. I couldn't possibly agree more. IGNORE KEYWORDS: diesel coal 4x4 350 carb dirtbike condom clown integra low rider HID low miles honda toyota chevy chevrolet pontiac jeep dodge mud truck hot rod Dealers that do this ought to be shot. That is a really nice car though.
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May 23, 2013 20:30
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Huggable Bear King posted:I think you've just invented a new form of Destruction Derby. Now I want to buy a couple panthers and joust! Wouldn't pony cars be better for that?  angryhampster, every time I look at that "bumper" abomination, all I can think is "that is a very strangely shaped shopping cart corral he's parked in."
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May 24, 2013 04:27
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That sounds like a blown clockspring to me.
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Jun 8, 2013 22:29
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cbx posted:Yeah. Both airbags have been deployed, so the air bag light stays on constantly. That's probably related - servicing procedures generally recommend replacing the clockspring when the airbag goes off, since the thin conductors in the ribbon cable generally can't handle the kind of current the airbag firing squib draws more than once or so, in fact they generally burn up when it fires. So the clockspring's probably toast because of that.
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Jun 13, 2013 21:57
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I've had a slipping transmission (which failed catastrophically a month or two later) cause overheating. The good news is, it doesn't sound like your transmission is slipping cbx, it sounds like it's doing the opposite, upshifting too soon. So I think they are separate problems.
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Jun 28, 2013 13:52
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meatpimp posted:Absolutely this. I've had a couple cars that saw HUGE lighting increases just by feeding them proper power. Summit Racing sells a kits for under $30 like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grm-01-130/overview/ Agreed. And (IIRC, I don't feel like working the math out right now) light output is based on a function of voltage squared (P=V^2/R is probably the root of this) so for every little bit you reduce your wiring voltage losses, you improve the power output at the bulbs significantly. As in, going from (for example) 12 volts at the bulbs to 13.8 volts at the bulbs should be around a 32% light output increase, and with it, a significant change in color temperature, at least when using halogens.
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Jun 28, 2013 16:01
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leica posted:Haha. Hopefully the bags won't be deflating anymore, that was the whole point of the replacement. For an air horn all I need is a tank, lines, and the horn right? I wouldn't need a new relay just to trigger the horn would I? Depends on the horn. Some have a built in solenoid so you just feed them off the wire that would have gone to the stock horn. The one I put on my old jeep off a firetruck had a pullchain valve stock though, so I bought a new valve and attached a pullchain to it, then put it in the sunglasses compartment of the overhead console  (the 1/4 poly airline for it snaked in over the headliner quite easily)
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Jul 16, 2013 00:25
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Son of a gently caress I hate chrome-condom lugs so loving much. I think my least favorite feature is when the condom not only comes off the lug nut, but gets jammed into my 4-way, leaving me cursing while digging it out with a flat blade screwdriver and pair of needlenose pliers for the next 10 minutes. Somehow they always get really, really stuck in there.
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Jul 16, 2013 12:27
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Motronic posted:Speed bleeders are junk for exactly this reason. I've never had a problem with leakage (the poppet valve in a speed bleeder is where the open drilled port is on a regular bleeder, so honestly if that's making it leak, you didn't torque the bleeder properly) but the drat things do seem to be good for about one or two uses in the salt belt, so I'm probably not going to buy any more. Gravity bleeding seems to work ok for me anyways. The actual sealing surface of a bleeder valve is the conical surface at the tip, so if that's badly machined, corroded, malformed, or damaged, or the round seat it presses on has any damage, you're going to have a leak no matter what.
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Aug 5, 2013 20:37
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How about swapping in that inline 6 DOHC I seem to recall australian fords getting? All proper 6 cylinder engines have them in a line not a vee 
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Dec 9, 2013 05:53
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T1g4h posted:So far? About a week It was probably freaking out because it was getting more oxygen in the exhaust (and thus the EGR recirc air mixture, and thus the actual engine AFR) than it expected, I wonder if they're taking HEGO AFR reading into account in the calculations for required EGR duty cycle to get the mixtures desired. If I had to guess the answer is no and it was assuming exhaust to be mildly rich for EGR duty cycle calculation purposes, then getting thrown off by the fact that it was rich and also contained oxygen.
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Dec 29, 2013 18:59
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Rhyno posted:Some prick is trying to get a law drafted to prevent the sale of police vehicles to civilians because they are SO loving DANGEROUS or some poo poo. His position is that they are not only dangerous to use post police work, but it's too risky that criminals could buy them and pretend to be police. This guy doesn't seem to know that they sold CVs and Impala's outside of law enforcement. I have heard this argument before relating to other things and it is just as bullshit in this case as it is in any other.
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Apr 1, 2014 18:18
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Fucknag posted:Says the man who owns dangerous military equipment.  if I could only catch up to you in it, ever, I'M GONNA KICK --> YOUR SORRY rear end!!!
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Apr 2, 2014 17:35
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Interesting. I'll have to look into this. hahaha, I know exactly which bolts you're talking about  I won't even try to work on the belt without having a known good (AKA already freed up and wire wheeled + retapped) bolt/pinch block on hand.One of the worst serpentine belt tensioner designs I've ever seen. Subaru likes using tension bolts too... why the hell can't they just use a big beefy spring tensioner like everyone else?
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Jun 3, 2014 18:54
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That kind of shenanigans is almost always because the ground wiring in the harness branches out like a tree from a variety of common ground points on the chassis. If one ground gets really corroded/loose/dodgy, any little random perturbation will break the connection and suddenly, if there's a switched load that gets grounded when turned off on the same now-missing ground, it becomes the (bad) ground and current flows through both loads in series. Very very common issue, the symptoms are just different depending on which make/model/year and what devices share each ground. For instance bad grounds in either the rear left quarter panel or front left quarter panel by the ECU on a jeep cherokee will usually cause extremely strange blinker, brake light, and dash blinker/highbeam telltale bulb behavior.
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Aug 25, 2014 04:20
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 16:17 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:I mentioned a really annoying clanking/clunking noise in my front suspension a while back, and how the shop had said I should replace the sway bar links. Well, I'd been super lazy and not even looked underneath since then, but today I decided to put it up on ramps and have a really good look around: I mean, what exactly did you expect? The kits are usually like $15 per side, on many vehicles you can't even get just the bushings. They told you exactly what you needed I normally take the old one out with an angle grinder or boltcutter, it isn't even worth the time to try and save them once they clunk/jingle because it usually damages the hardware.
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Sep 3, 2014 22:26
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