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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Based solely on the picture of new bellows on rockauto, they just use zipties



It's not a spinning part so hose clamps would probably give a little more peace of mind. Have you checked the box they came in to see if there is included hardware?

Kits for some vehicles come with crimp on/spring clamps but that's probably more a a cost saving measure.

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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Ya'll act like you ain't never seen a late 90s Toyota Tercel before.

god, why couldn't i get a brain that's good for useful poo poo.


Grocery shopping without a panic attack? naw, photographic memory of shitboxes.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jan 8, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


wesleywillis posted:

Its got 4 bolt wheels so that should narrow it down to only like 21436147621 cars.

It's a Tercel.




note the bumper rub strips, sharp lower body line, side rub strip peeking out below the cover, sharp trunk lid, wind mint metallic paint.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Do you figure this turd was written off, repaired, inspected, registered, and then written off again within 3 months or do you think it's slow reporting fuckery?



e: hit 12k and no sale, lmfao. 200k km SRT-8 grand cherokee with all that fuckery on there and they wanted more.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jan 29, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Ok Comboomer posted:

Surprised that doesn’t exist for regular garden hose attachments



?

Just need wheels!

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


A 2002 escort is front wheel drive, has no rear CVs. If you’re certain it’s coming from the rear, and is speed dependent it is a wheel bearing or brake issue. Jack up the corner you think it’s coming from and spin it by hand. Grab it and try to wiggle it. That narrow it down.

Based on your tools in the truck sound, it may also be a rear link rusted and broken off and wanging off a wheel weight.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


It just occurred to me that you likely have drum brakes on the rear. It’s possible there’s something loose inside the drum or the backing plate is rusted/bent

On a front drive front heavy car the rear brakes don’t contribute much. If one wasn’t functional you would have to get pretty deep into the brakes to tell. That also means that brake drum may have been on there for 20 salty years which would mean it’s permanent.

Also to be clear as I feel my post was poorly worded. With that corner lifted and the car stable grab the wheel on the sides and wiggle it side to side. Then grab top and bottom of the wheel and see if you can wiggle it up and down. If you’re just on the. Be extremely careful not to put your hands it feet anywhere they could be punched if the car desires to leave the Jack.

You can also try moving slowly and gently applying the parking brake, which would apply only the rear brakes and see if the noise changes.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Feb 10, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


There’s a TSB to reprogram the lift gate module

TSB Number:
SSM 49914
NHTSA Number:
10198658

Mention this to the service manager then escalate to Ford. The phone number is in your warranty book.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Heavy million mile truck engines are all gear driven cam-in-block



They have adjustment plates under the idlers to adjust backlash. I can't imagine how you could do it with that complex of a gear set or after decking a head.



OS Giken makes timing gear sets for datsuns



Also, I saw the car that F140 engine is out of on the highway here quite a number of years ago and i'll never not bring that up when that picture comes up. It was an MC12 that was being built into a Corsa clone. It probably had 80,000kms+ on it by the time of that rebuild. He was going considerably faster than the vehicle i was in was capable of.



More pics of the timing stuff:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.281140241930808.74445.234128699965296&type=3


IOwnCalculus posted:

The new Duramax 3.0 in the fullsize GM trucks/SUVs uses a timing belt mounted on the back of the engine that requires the transmission to be removed to service it at 150k miles. Yeah, not a mainstream engine, but not super-niche either given how hard GM is pushing that.

The duramax actually still uses timing chains with plastic guides on the back of the engine. The transmission-out belt service only drives the oil pump. So that's how all of those are going to die. "duramax chevy 1500, runs and drives just needs oil pump belt, $30 part, no lowballers"

Powershift fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Mar 7, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


pumped up for school posted:

Random q about new Pacifica (brand new, hybrid model): I've got one as a rental. We got a truck stuck yesterday, and while we were waiting on a tow we were looking around the minivan, trying to figure out where you'd hook up a tow strap/cable should it ever need same. No hooks, and nothing obvious undercarriage. No little plate covering an insert sunk into the bumper where you thread one of those eye hook thingies. Anyone know?

Also, the Ford (2020 f250 super duty diesel) that got stuck has a pause between gear shifting to forward and reverse, so we couldn't rock it fast enough to keep momentum. Like there's an electronic shift? I dunno, but it was annoying. We've got a lot of experience getting vehicles unstuck so it was a good ego check.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


briefcasefullof posted:

Alrighty, here goes:

2006 F150, 2wd

When I let off the accelerator, I feel a rumbling / vibration from the rear passenger tire. As soon as I give it even the slightest amount of gas, the vibration stops. It's not a major vibration like when a wheel weight falls off. I'm thinking it's the wheel bearing. How should I go about checking it?

I'm thinking jack it up, remove tire, and spin the hub to feel for the vibration / grinding.

You don't even have to remove the tire. just pull it in and out, wiggle it. spin it, there shouldn't be any play.

It sounds more like a loose u-joint to me, possibly a worn differential. Those things would be more likely to be affected by torque being applied.

If you can reach without it in the air, wiggle your driveshaft to check for a loose u-joint. once you have that side up in the air and the opposite wheel blocked from spinning, spin the wheel back and forth to check for excessive play in the differential.

F-150s of that era used really bad Korean bearings in the diff and they are a pain in the rear end to get out. I literally had to cut an X into the hardened bearing race to get it out.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


briefcasefullof posted:

Aw hell. I'm not looking forward to having to do that. Thanks! I'll start troubleshooting it in the next few days, once the weather improves.

What counts for excessive play in turning the wheel (for troubleshooting the diff, I'm pretty familiar with play as far as ball joints and tie rods go)

Basically none. There should be a small clunk but next to no movement.


The Voice of Labor posted:

are there any current production things like a suzuki sidekick? like, a 4x4 smart car or an atv that can go on the freeway?

Nope. In Europe or Japan there is the Jimny. You can register UTVs in some states. You can import a RHD 25 year old Jimny or Pajero jr. Pretty much everything else is wrangler sized or a car.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


22 Eargesplitten posted:

This stuff is super interesting to me as someone who has never worked on anything older than the '90s. I knew you could rebuild shocks and it just wasn't a cost-effective option anymore but I never knew about grease fittings on passenger cars, I had that in mind as a heavy machinery thing. I guess I can kind of see the appeal that older stuff like that has to people from that generation. Seems like a lot more maintenance but a lot less parts needing completely replaced? Or is that an over-idealized idea and parts still needed replacing all the time? I know the response to "They don't make them like they used to" should be "Thank God."

Overidealized. the parts were even more poo poo, the lubricants, too. Greasing was just overcoming those issues.

One of the big selling points of the beetle was that you could change the engine in 2 hours. Engine overhauls were a huge business and cars only had 5 digit odometers. replacement engines were regularly advertised next to mufflers. Warranties were 10,000 miles.





A lot of it was likely planned obsolescence, which is why when the Japanese came in with well made poo poo they ate the American's lunch.

Old dudes say "they don't make them like they used to" nostalgically, then are impressed when the door closes on the first hit and almost lines up with the body.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Mar 13, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Thauros posted:

i was surprised that read "miles" given the canadian dealership and apparently canada only switched in the '70s

The ad is from 76, a year before the odometers and road signs changed and everybody was happy about it and nobody was extremely angry.

Gas pumps changed from imperial gallons in 1979. A lot of stuff still used miles, and miles per gallon for quite a while longer because it sounded good.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


briefcasefullof posted:

Sooooo....


There is some play in the diff. My tires are made by Firestone, so if the "o" is at six o'clock, I can turn it to the next letter almost.

More importantly, the bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential were barely in or finger tight at best. Tightened them up, went on a test drive, and the vibration is gone. Should I see about the differential? Probably, but it also has 300k miles and I'll be getting a new to me car soon for my DD and this one will be for when I need a truck. Read: I'm not fixing it until it explodes.

The factory bolts should have had loctite so i would wager somebody's been in there already. Not a surprise at 300k.

entire used axles are common and cheaper than a rebuild, so as long as it's not the pinion nut loosening up it will *probably* be fine until it explodes. It will probably start whining before it does.

If it was the kind of vehicle where you intended on rebuilding the differential it would make sense to get in there before damage was done to the gears or the carrier.

If it's due for rear fluid change as is, the cover has to come off anyways, so it would make sense to check the backlash at the ring gear while you're in there.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Mar 15, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


WhiteHowler posted:

I'll let the expert figure it out, but since I can't take the car in until at least Monday, I was just curious what it might be. Sometimes specific "symptoms" are very obvious.

If i had to guess, VCT solenoid. Sounds similar to issues with the 5.4.

Random misfires until it's bad enough to throw a timing code.

It could just be a spark plug/coilpack/injector, but it wouldn't usually be as extreme as you're describing.

The 2010 fusion does have TSBs for the same issue as the 5.4 TSBs, too fine of a screen on the VCT solenoid that gets plugged quickly.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Mar 19, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Internet Explorer posted:

Hello thread. I recently moved to a place in the mountains with a several mile dirt road that sees a considerable amount of snow. It gets plowed, but as to be expected, there can be a day or two delayed before it happens.

I'm fairly up to speed on winter tires, what AWD does and does not do for you, etc., but I am having a hard time dialing in how important ground clearance is for snow. I've done a bit of reading and it seems like some people think it's super important and some think that it's not very important.

I'm sure it's one of those things that we'll figure out over time, but I figured I'd ask my goon friends. How important is ground clearance for snowy mountain roads?

It doesn't affect control, but if there are drifts or snow piles, you can damage the lower bumper cover in a car with low ground clearance.

so getting into and out of driveways for example, after the road has been plowed can be difficult to impossible in a car.

when the melt starts, if there is hard packed snow on the road, tracks can be worn into the snow pack effectively reducing the ground clearance of all cars, meaning you could damage a low car. -

The inch or so that most CUVs add over their car countepart isn't really meaningful in this scenario.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Mar 20, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Internet Explorer posted:

Makes sense and seems obvious. Thanks for the answer. On your CUV comment, our current car that we are going to keep around is a 2014 WRX with like 5 inches of clearance. If we're making a decision based off of clearance, should we be looking at 8-10 inches of clearance if it's something we end up needing to care about? And if we're not aiming for 8-10 then it doesn't really matter too much?

Obviously, devil is in the details and all that. How much snow is average, how long it sits, etc., but just as general guidance.


I really can't speak for your area, but there have been some years here where a WRX would get beached on my street. my old 540 had a torn up bumper from the ruts in the snow. You can probably gauge based on what other people there are driving.

Also, there are lift kits for WRXes :getin:

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


It appears to just be a weight, likely just to counter vibration. It's likely there to stop vibration from the engine from being transmitted through the torque rod into the chassis.

The bit it's attached to is the torque rod, basically to stop the engine from pitching back and forth.

a whole new torque rod is probably $50-$100 bucks. a tack weld will probably get you another few years out of the part. JB wild will probably vibrate to dust. You'll probably want to do something before it hops right into the serpentine belt there.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


WaffleZombie posted:

I searched through the thread a bit and saw a little bit of selling advice, but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction to where to start.

My dad recently passed away, and he left behind a 2016 BMW 750i xdrive with about 36k miles. My mom thinks he paid about $100k for it, and then even went to Germany to pick it up. I need to get more information on the trim package, but where do we start? KBB seems to suggest a $45k asking price, but how much could the trim/color affect that? Should we even bother talking to a dealership/Carmax/Carvana or just go the private sale route? And if a private sale, where would you recommend we list it?

BMWs specifically you can find the specs from the VIN.

https://www.mdecoder.com/

https://bimmer.work/

7 series cars can have hugely expensive options, so it can be, important, but Carvana and the like will have all of this information from the VIN and it should be factored into the price.

Selling a ~$50k car privately can be a huge pain in the rear end, so it's worth at least figuring out what the big used car groups will offer you first.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


with a $50k car, you should be more worried about the car being on a boat before the bank figures out the draft is fake.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


mr.belowaverage posted:

I’m looking at a couple C4 Corvettes this weekend.

Should I buy one y/n?

Very Y. I saw a red one driving around, and drat they're a good looking car from the right angles.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


busalover posted:

Do you have a thread for Formula 1, GT Racing etc.?

They are in SAS.

The F1 thread exists almost in another dimension and has a ton of running in-jokes and gimmick posters and can be intimidating for new posters.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3996956

GT racing and such is covered in the Misc racing thread. It really only gets active around the big races. but if there's a race series you're into, bring it up there and you'll have people who want to discuss it.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3991863

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Bad Munki posted:

What’s aircare?

Emissions testing.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Baronash posted:

Are there resources for finding out what would have been a part of a factory tow package ? I'm looking at a 2001 Grand Cherokee, and from what I can tell the tow package bumped the capacity from 2000lbs to 5000lbs. I'm trying to figure out if it's more than just a transmission cooler and the correct hitch.

https://jeepspecs.com/wj-generation/specifications/trailer-towing-specifications/

quote:

Trailer Tow Prep Group (requires I-6 engine)

3.73:1 axle ratio
Mechanical cooling fan
Trailer tow wiring assembly

Trailer Tow Group Class III (requires I-6 engine)

3.73:1 axle ratio
Transmission oil cooler
Frame-mounted receptacle for load-equalizer type hitch
7-into-4-way plug adapter

Trailer Tow Group Class IV (requires V8 engine)

3.73:1 axle ratio
Power steering cooler
Transmission oil cooler
Frame-mounted receptacle for load-equalizer type hitch
7-into-4-way plug adapter

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


nitrogen posted:

Can anyone recommend a good brake flush kit for a single person to use to flush the brake lines by themselves?

I see plenty on Amazon but I'm worried about cheap Chinese crap and wonder what brands I should use?

Or if I should just forget the idea completely?

consensus is pretty much the Motive power bleeder.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


from their whatnow

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


If the ball is spinning inside , drill a hole and run a screw in. Looks like you're doing tie rod ends, too.

If the socket is just stuck on there, hit with stick.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


GreenBuckanneer posted:

The only impact thing I have is a battery impact wrench and some sockets and torque wrench and such



Is the bolt part in the tie rod end not supposed to spin?

I got the nut almost to the end and then it just spins freely

:(

It's a ryobi

The threaded part is a shank on the end of a ball in a ball-and-socket connection.

there MIGHT be a hex bit in the end of it, but based on your surface rust it's going to have the consistency of cheese and strip out when you touch it.

I was working on my bmw once, which had 2 suspension links right next to each other. took the nut off the wrong one, put my pickle fork into the right one and broke the taper without taking the nut off, then got under the car and drilled a hole into the wrong one to stop it from spinning, and ended up having to replace both lower links on each side.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Sep 16, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


GreenBuckanneer posted:

$150 :smithicide:

Maybe I can return it when I'm done

Anyways I'm a bit confused with the instructions, I am pushing up from the bottom of the tie rod end here.

I set the impact to max speed and try to screw the nut it, but it doesn't go in

Where do you live?

Canadian tire loans tools for free here. I know a couple parts stores in the US do too.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


GreenBuckanneer posted:

Woo-hoo all the parts came in early

Except it's pouring out. :sigh:

I guess I'm waiting for the weekend anyways.

Edit1:


Oh that's cool, the tie rod end has a torx? End, is there a way to remove the stuck nut that way?

Edit2:

Those knuckles are nice and rust free. :hmmyes:

Powershift posted:

There MIGHT be a hex bit in the end of it, but based on your surface rust it's going to have the consistency of cheese and strip out when you touch it.


Salt sits in there and destroys the metal. You can give it a shot though. It's really only there for installation in salty areas. To have the best shot at it, clean it out reaaaaaaaally well. like, digging the dirt out with a pick, and hammer the hex bit in.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Jables88 posted:

My Honda / Stepwagon / 2005 has a stuck driver side sliding door. I've done a little research and first thing to check is fuses.

Any idea where I could find a fuse box diagram for this vehicle? It's a Japanese import (I'm in the UK) and every resource I can find only basically acts as though this vehicle doesn't exist.

Sorry for the stupid question in the stupid question thread.

Pop the fuse box cover off. There should be little diagrams of what each fuse does on the inside of the cover. You're looking for this fella right here.



If you have the manual, the Google Lens within the google phone app does live translation.

Also remember that fuses protect the circuit. A blown fuse is a symptom, not a cause of the problem.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Sep 27, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Yeah, looks like you're looking for fuses 15 and 16 here.




http://blog.livedoor.jp/osaka_3939/archives/38117335.html

machine translate of the stuff on the left suggests there are 2 more fuses in another box either above the gas pedal or under the driver's seat for the rear doors as well.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Sep 27, 2022

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


A full color change wrap will cost as much as an okay paint job, usually in the $2,000-$3,000 range to pay someone to do it, and have a life span of 7-8 years at the high end. Dents and bad scratches will show through. flaking clear coat will cause adhesion issues.

It's really not a "make an old car look better cheaply" thing. It's a "low-risk temporary color change on an expensive car" thing.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


smackfu posted:

Do the cars that let you run external stuff on their power cut off at some point to preserve enough range to recharge it?

Older vehicles will run until your battery voltage is too low to run the inverter. Newer vehicles usually have a voltage cut-off to prevent this.

The F-150 hybrid lets you run off the hybrid battery and starts itself up to recharge as needed. The non-hybrids require the truck to be running to use the pro power.

Dodge e-torque stuff is all over in junkyards, It looks like the 48v etorque generators can be had for around $400 with the DC-DC converter, and the 48v batteries for around $500. That could be a direction to look at if you're serious about it.

It's belt driven, and it would be pretty cool if someone could figure out how to make it work with other engines, but i would imagine there's a lot of programming stuff that would need to happen.

Powershift fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Jan 11, 2023

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


ScooterMcTiny posted:

I have a 2012 Prius that had the cat converter stolen back in December. Had it towed to a shop that said they were getting a shipment in last week and they called me yesterday to say “sorry our order was cancelled they told us it’s on 6 month back order”. Working through calling every shop in LA right now, but anyone have any other creative ideas for how I can get a working vehicle before July?

I don't know what emissions tests you are regularly exposed to, but you could slap a "test pipe" or just a straight piece of tube to fill the hole where the converter was and ignore the CEL until the part comes in.

Being California, that may or may not be more illegal than just stealing someone else's cat. legit shops might not be willing to do it.

You can search for each of the individual part numbers for CARB compliant cats here and maybe find one in stock somewhere.

https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/AftermarketParts/catalysts

e: Stillen of all people seem to have one in stock.

https://stillen.com/collections/exhaust/products/magnaflow-conv-df-2010-2015-prius-l4-1-8-oem-underbody-52456

You could confirm with the mechanic that it's the right part, and confirm with Stillen that they actually have it before ordering.


someusername posted:

I've got a 1991 dodge b250 5.2l in decent shape for its age. I don't have any real money into it. Traveling around 45-55mph it will slip back and forth between 3rd and 4th gear constantly. Easy enough to solve by turning off OD until going over 60 then it stays in 4th. (the shifter only has 1,2,D and the OD toggle) Is that a progressive sort of failure or something I can continue working around?

Firstly, check the fluid level with the engine running and the van parked on flat ground.

If the behaviour changes before the fluid warms up, it could be an internal fluid leak.

You can check the flash codes by turning the key on and off 3 times ending in the on position and count the CEL flashes. a bad throttle position sensor or speed control sensor could also be telling the transmission to kick down.

https://www.allpar.com/threads/the-1980s-1990s-chrysler-computer-codes.229009/

Powershift fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Jan 12, 2023

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Honda Goldwing engine/trans into a regular diff.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


If you want to keep the OEM look you can get an entire seat on car-part.com for $100 depending on where you are. I don't know if the air bags are in the seat but if they are and blown someone might even sell you the lower cushion.

Alternatively lower cushion fabric and hog ring pliers work out to about the same.

I haven't seen slip over covers that didn't look like rear end on seats with any sort of bolstering

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Mr. Wiggles posted:

How do you put a V8 in a Focus? Discuss:

There used to be kits to put a mod motor in a first gen focus.

There's still one company making them but for the small block Ford.

https://kugelkomponents.com/focus-v-8/

E: they have a mod motor kit too. I wonder if the 5.2 flat plane would fit.

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Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


VelociBacon posted:

Does it stay a FWD? I was always tempted to put an LS motor in my 240sx.

RWD and bolt-in.


barnold posted:

stupid question on a 2013 Toyota Camry (XV50, 4cyl model) if there are any toyota touchers hanging around: brought car in to the dealership (problem #1, I know, I don't normally do this but I had some errands to run and it happened to be the most convenient way to kill a few birds with less stones) for an oil change/tire rotation, normal poo poo. they came back and told me they're measuring the front brake linings at 5mm and the rear brake linings at 3mm and want me to replace them. I went back through my service records and remembered that I had already replaced them on all four wheels in October 2021.

I didn't authorize any of what they wanted to do and am gonna take the report to a local guy I know for a second opinion but it seems odd that the rear brakes would be going faster than the front. I'm not driving this thing like a racecar although driving in the Boston metro area does require more brake usage than other places. averaging about ~9500mi/yr, with 85k on the car since I bought it (though it was a pre-owned and had about 23k when I got it). they didn't say I have any issues with alignment or uneven tire wear. does it make any sense for this car to be wearing the rear brakes uneven like that?

The rears can wear quicker sometimes but not that much in 20,000 miles.

You may be able to look at your brake pads through the wheels, maybe with a small mirror or stick your phone in and take a picture. inside the caliper, the pads are just a ~1cm metal backing plate and then the pad material.

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