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I'm usually over in the mainstream modeling thread, and do big stuff, military kits and pop-culture garage-kits. I did get my hand on some minis for free though recently, and I thought I'd try my hand at the small stuff. I've really admired all the amazing stuff in this thread, so I thought I'd try my hand and have some fun. Right off the bat there was one of those pre-painted minis from D&D in the stash I got, so I thought I'd mess with that first. Nothing much, just some tweaks to punch up the shadows and worn metal effects, and add some grease and grime effects to the mech bits. Thought I'd start off easy before I dove into a paint from scratch.    
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May 25, 2018 04:25
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 14:18 |
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Stephenls posted:Anyone know of a black paint that’s a close match to Forgeworld’s Corvus Black, soon to disappear forever? I’ve seen people say Scalecolor Decay Black is close, but that looks like, uh, an actual black, whereas Corvus Back is a very deep grey with slight blue tones. If you're willing to try artists paints, Golden Acrylics makes a lighter black color called Bone Black. If you want something even lighter and bluer than that, try Paynes Gray.
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May 25, 2018 22:54
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Does Stynylrez work on metal? It's worked great on everything I've thrown at it before, but I've got some older metal minis in this stash and I've never tried the stuff on pewter/white-metal before.
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May 28, 2018 19:51
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What's everyones take on removing mold lines? The big garage-kits I work on, it's a requirement. And because the kits are big, it's easy to get rid of them. These minis though, is it worth it to try and get every mold line? Once they're painted up, are the lines generally small enough that they blend with everything, or do you still get in there with a blade and get out every mold line no matter how small?
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May 29, 2018 08:46
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Booyah- posted:I believe the 105 comes with a .5 needle. I think the 105 is .75. Which is huge, you could spray cement through that if you thinned it a little.
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May 30, 2018 17:30
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Booyah- posted:I guess this is a good time to ask about the patriot, the nozzle on mine is on so tight that I can't get it off with finger pressure. What's the safest way to get it loose? Wrap a wide elastic band around the grippy part, then gently use some needle nose pliers to loosen it.
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May 30, 2018 23:59
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I don't even use a rubber band, but it's a good idea. I prefer something like regular pliers since the diameter is so wide. Sure. Wasn't quite sure the diameter. Some brushes, like Iwata, have teen tiny little nozzles you have to use kid gloves around. Others like on my secondary Paasche Talon you could use workshop tools on since it's so chunky and robust. My third stringer Paasche VL you could just huck at the wall until it came apart, because LOL it's a VL. Made in me-hee-co out of melted radial tires and pig-iron.
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May 31, 2018 01:09
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grassy gnoll posted:Do you limeys out there really call them "deh-KULLs?" I believe most of the world calls them that. It's mainly only the US that calls them dee-cals.
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May 31, 2018 19:53
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Speaking of finding minis, is there any one website out there that tracks any and all minis from all games out there? Basically someplace that's a one stop shop for news on new releases from the latest GW stuff to the tiniest boutique gaming outfit, and archives of past releases?
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Jun 1, 2018 00:32
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I just keep a little nub of paper towel nearby with a few drops of thinner in it. Any time I see anything collecting on the tip, I just pinch the tip with the paper towel and that's it.
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Jun 8, 2018 09:41
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haakman posted:I did a thing, but it's probably better off in the bad mini painting thread. Any tips? Stop being one of those "Oh, my work sure sucks." people. It looks pretty darn good, mang.
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Jun 11, 2018 17:41
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Hidden cache of Tenax-7R and Ambroid Pro-Weld. Get on my level.
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Jun 20, 2018 03:21
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Booyah- posted:This weekend's experiment You don't have to seal, but you'll get better results if you do. Oil paint will tend to spread out and act more like a Filter on a matte surface. If you put a satin or gloss coat on the mini first though, the wash will stick more to the low points and creases of the figure. It still perfectly doable on a figure with a matte surface, but you may have to go in and do more cleanup to remove any oil that spread to areas you didn't want it in.
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Jun 23, 2018 01:33
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If you guys are using brush soap to clean your brushes at the end of a session, once you've cleaned them you can take some of the wet soap and use it to form the bristles into a point. You can then just leave the soap in the brush, and it'll keep them shaped until your next session. When you go to use them again, just give them a swish in clean water to clean the dried soap away, and you're good to go.
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Jun 29, 2018 02:22
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You can't put a clear matte over clear plastic. Matte by it's very nature is basically microscopic powder suspended in a clear binder, the powder adding tooth to the surface of which breaks the reflectivity of it. So by putting it over clear plastic, you've basically made a frosted glass effect. It probably stands out on the tires as well since they're black, and many mattes will show on pure black. You'd have to mask the tires and windows, and use VERY light coats, if you want to continue to use rattle can mattes.
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Jul 5, 2018 13:41
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If you do go with a masking fluid, make sure to do a test with it on some clear plastic you don't care about. It should be fine, but they definitely have a chemical stink to them, and you don't want to craze the plastic by accident.
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Jul 5, 2018 14:42
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Bucnasti posted:Anyone have any experience with masking putty? Is it just silly putty with a fancy label? As far as I know it's just generic Silly Putty. If you have a well stocked toy store (thanks Toys R Us, and Obama), or a Wal-Mart, near you, you can probably find a bunch of the standard sized eggs of the stuff there for the same price you'd pay to order the Thinking Putty online. Or you can go full mental and order a One-Pound Egg, or a Five-Pound Block.
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Jul 6, 2018 04:31
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Harkano posted:Did someone say Wet Palette? Daaaammmnnnn. Still waiting on mine to arrive. Lucky bitch.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:57
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Do you happen to have any gaming stores near you? A lot of times they'll have a cheap minis from discontinued product, or minis people have sold back to them after they didn't want them anymore. You can often get 10+ minis for the price you'd pay for a single new one, and then you'd have a bunch of test subjects you can practice on and try different techniques.
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Jul 7, 2018 02:13
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Two Beans posted:I'm switching up my painting workspace. Does anyone have suggestions for a good lamp/lightbulb to use for painting? I got 4 of these LED overhead lights from Costco, and they are the single best addition to my workspace. They're super light, so you just need a few hooks in the ceiling drywall, and that's more than enough to hold them up. They're also super bright, so if you arrange them in a square around your work space, you get a ton of light and no shadows. https://www.costco.com/Feit-4%27-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-2-pack.product.100410429.html
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Jul 16, 2018 17:21
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Oh man, Sideshow is putting out a big ol' Space Marine Statue. 28" tall. Keep it as is, or strip it and put those miniature painting skills to use and paint the chapter of your choice. $1150 though, sigh.
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Jul 19, 2018 09:03
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Archenteron posted:On the topic of color mixing, is there a better way to miss a color than just swirling them around with your brush? The main brushes I use (army painter) are short-bristled enough that mixing usually ends with the entirety of the bristles covered in paint, which even with thorough washing, has probably not been kind to their condition. You can buy packs of hundreds of mini/micro brushes from china for next to nothing. If you buy dedicated hobby-branded ones from western stores and companies, they'll charge you five bucks for ten of them. Get em on eBay for 1/10th the price. They very small, but with just enough bristle on the tip to properly mix small amounts of paint. eBay Micro Brushes. If I need to mix larger amounts of paint, then I move up to wooden coffee stir sticks, which again you can buy in bulk packs for cheap on eBay. Even more paint, I move up to popsicle sticks, which are common enough you can pick up locally at craft stores for decent prices.
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Jul 21, 2018 09:27
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Yeah aren't many options in airbrush booths. There's cheapo ones like the Master one, and then the next step up tend to be quite expensive. I went with the Master one, then added on another unit beside it, and then added a custom shroud around it since I do garage-kit stuff that can be quite large. If all you're doing is minis, or 1/35 scale modeling, a single Master booth is more than enough though. 
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Jul 24, 2018 01:13
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berzerkmonkey posted:This was the second time today that heard about using beeswax as a thread locker instead of tape, so I ordered a couple sticks on Amazon. Also need to get some polishing compound for the needle, it seems... One stick will last you a lifetime. A couple sticks will last you until the heat-death of the universe. Also, just use Chap-Stick.
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Jul 31, 2018 00:23
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berzerkmonkey posted:And chap stick is an oil based wax, so I didn't know how it would hold up to solvents. Holding up isn't really an issue, since if your cleaning your airbrush at the end of the day, you're going to need to reapply the Chap-Stick/Beeswax after cleaning anyways. Also beeswax doesn't really smell of anything.
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Jul 31, 2018 00:52
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Geisladisk posted:
While not a primer, you could get away with using one of Tamiyas sprays. They've got a few that could match that color. https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/72/TS-chart.pdf
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Aug 2, 2018 00:06
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Phi230 posted:Does anybody have any experience using Woodland Scenics water stuff? It's okay. Good for shallow puddles and the like. It can take quite a while to dry though, and can shrink and bow inward if there's any real depth to it. If you want to have depth more than 1/8th of an inch, you'd be better served going with a 2-part clear casting resin. You can get stuff like Cast'nCraft or EasyCast at places like Michael's for pretty cheap. Even a 2-Part epoxy glue can work for very small puddles. That can tend to yellow over time though, which may work for you if the water is scummy. You can avoid yellowing though by adding just the faintest amount of purple paint to the glue. So little that you can barely even tell you added it.
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Aug 3, 2018 22:53
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Just tell everyone that the armed forces are trying out zimmerit again.
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Aug 8, 2018 00:52
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Booley posted:I painted some dudes. Looks like he's wearing an 80's workout outfit. Let's purge heresy, heresy. I wanna purge heresy, let's purge all the heresy.
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Aug 10, 2018 00:45
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Saxophone posted:Alright, I have primer, a Reaper Learn to Paint kit, the miniatures it comes with and a can do attitude. Find something you can test the spray on. Pill bottle, plastic spoon, whatever.
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Aug 10, 2018 03:52
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I think they all have their place. Leftmost is a battlefield worn suit, dull and burnished from a life in combat. Middle is from some buy that's been guarding a door all his life, faded from standing in the sun too long. Third is owned by a keener that does a lot of parade duty, constantly polishing his armor to look it's best.
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Aug 28, 2018 03:29
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Schadenboner posted:The orange-tube stuff I originally used smelled awful and the fumes made me feel dizzy so I got the blue-tube stuff that was labeled non-toxic. I never ate it though? Was that the old orange-tube Testors glue? Man, that stuff is the original old-skool glue huffers ambrosia. Wonder how many brain cells I killed getting a whiff of that stuff when I was a kid building models.
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Sep 7, 2018 00:40
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Count_Brass posted:I’m interested in picking one of these up, I’d love to know how you get on with it. Do you think itks worth the asking price? You may want to check the comments out on the original Kickstarter for it. Ranges from "it's just okay" to "this is the worst thing ever it aborted my baby and is hitler and gave my mom cancer-aids". https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1061749597/everlasting-the-best-wet-palette-for-miniature-pai/comments
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Sep 22, 2018 10:34
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And if you don't have any old needles, or want something a bit more robust, there are dedicated nozzle cleaners out there. Just google "airbrush reamer", and there are a ton out there for cheap. They generally look the the below image. Great for getting out dried bits in the nozzles and other fine areas of the airbrush.
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Nov 10, 2018 09:49
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I'd definitely recommend spending a bit more for something like these DSPIAE/Meng Nippers. I used the Xurons for years, and they're fine, but I stepped up to the DSPIAE/Meng nippers recently and they're just worlds better. They cut things amazingly smoothly, and leave almost zero cutting damage or sprue nubs on your parts. Save so much time by reducing the need to clean up sprue nubs.
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Nov 18, 2018 06:58
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There are tons of art stores in europe that would ship WN brushes to Saudi Arabia. The whole "sable brushes can't be shipped outside of the country the store resides in" is pretty much BS. The only stores that don't do this are ones that can't be assed to comply with CITES certification.
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Aug 12, 2019 08:28
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These last two builds are pretty loving baller. Nice work!
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Aug 13, 2019 17:22
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TotalHell posted:I know many of ya'll have lightboxes, but I see some photos here that are awesome with no lightboxes at all. Is there a secret I'm missing or do I just need to try harder? A lightbox is just a very simple way to diffuse the light coming at your figure. You can get the same effect by diffusing the lights themselves, with diffusing covers, or even just diffusing the flash on the camera. Back in my early camera days, I diffused the light from the pop-up camera flash with a styrofoam cup placed over the flash. I diffuse the lights on my current setup with the cheap white cloth from the fabric store, and mount it over the lights with needlepoint hoops from the same place. Hell, you could diffuse lights with a piece of white paper held up in front of the light. Wanna go even cheaper than that? Wait until you get an overcast day, take your pics outside with instant cloud-diffused sunlight.
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Aug 18, 2019 12:37
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Miniac had a very thorough video where he tried out numerous DIY snow recipes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lbf6V0IT4uc
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Aug 27, 2019 00:20
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| # ¿ May 12, 2024 14:18 |
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Is there somewhere you can see what paints are recommended for a mini before you buy it and can read the back of the box? I'm looking to start trying out Citadel paints, but it'd be nice if I knew to buy X, Y, and Z paints at the same time I'm buying a mini online. I know the painting app does a great job of this, but that of course only covers a small fraction of the models out there.
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Aug 30, 2019 18:51
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