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1979 Ford Courier pickup truck - My door seals/weatherstrips are basically non-existent, same with the vent windows. I'll probably order the OEM door strips ($44) but the vent window seals are three times that and I'm a cheap bastard. Anyone have experience with bulk/generic door weatherstrip? Should be easy for the doors but the vent windows might be difficult.
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Jun 21, 2016 13:00
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StormDrain posted:Vent window strips are usually too complicated to get a good deal with generic. You might save a bit by ordering generic door seal somewhere else though. Think I might have to just buy the OEM vent ones which is fine. The $44 seems great but I didn't notice another $45 to ship them from Thailand so I'll keep looking.
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Jun 21, 2016 18:59
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2006 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner - 143k, 2wd, v6, automatic, extended cab with short bed. Under acceleration, especially high load like merging or going up a hill, there's a vibration that feels like its coming from the drive line. I immediately assumed carrier bearing but moving it by hand there's less than 1/4" up/down/side movement. Didn't feel any play in the u-joints either. I stuck a gopro under the truck pointed at the carrier bearing and didn't see any vertical movement but more horizontal (forward/backwards) than I was expecting. When coasting there's no vibration, turning and/or braking have no effect. Video here for those interested, around 1:25 I turn around and start going up hill - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDsriC-xARE U-joints haven't been greased in ~75k, plan to address that asap. I plan to rotate tires front to rear tomorrow evening to see if that has any effect. edit: tried reversing up a hill, vibration is significantly worse NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jan 23, 2017 |
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Jan 22, 2017 23:55
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1982 Ford F100 4.9L (300) I6 Automatic Transmission 2wd, power assist brakes Truck is dying shortly after getting to operating temperature. Will drive fine but once the needle hits where it usually rests it loads up, stumbles and dies. Popping it into neutral and trying to keep it going has never worked. Starts right back up on 1st or second crank. May be more running time than temperature related as the old thermostat had failed open and was dying in the same rough areas. Fairly strong smell of gas on restart so I suspect something fuel related. Replaced thermostat two weeks ago. Spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor replaced ~3 months ago. Have a new distributor ready to go in at some point. Before the electrical replacements it would die idling for more than a few minutes then would die a couple minutes from the house but start right up. The thermostat seems to have extended the drive time by 10 or so minutes before it dies. This happens 9/10 of the time or better that we drive it but it only dies once then will run the rest of the day, assuming it doesn't sit for hours between, just fine. I've had it kill on the on-ramp, started right up then made a 500 mile trip without a hiccup. Another issue: Brake pedal intermittently not returning when pressed. Truck has vacuum assist brakes. Pedal returns fine when truck not running. This happens about 2/3 of the time we use it. Brakes feel fine otherwise and fluid level is good, last flushed a year ago. Seems likely the vacuum assist is failing. Havne't tried it without assist connected yet.
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Dec 1, 2018 14:31
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wesleywillis posted:If i'm not mistaken there is a return spring in the master cylinder that should make the pedal come back up. Deteriorata posted:Sounds like a bad coil. A break in the wires will close when cold, then open up when it gets hot. I need to dig up my schematics check all the relays, there must be something that triggers or turns off once warm. Maybe something related to the cold start circuit or auto-choke.
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Dec 1, 2018 16:25
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STR posted:Grab a new DuraSpark II box (you won't find the OEM one new, but you can find aftermarket ones as an ignition control module). IIRC there's even a place to mount a spare (at least, my 1980 had a factory location to mount a spare). They fail in really weird ways. Forgot Ford uses 'slide on' connectors for the coil so I can't use the spare I had from a past vehicle but have a coil, ICM and brake master cylinder on the way. Put in the new distributor, cleaned all the ICM harness connections and grounds. Timing is still a hair off we'll see if this does anything for the issue. May look more into Duraspark 2 or a aftermarket alternative for future use.
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Dec 2, 2018 17:39
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STR posted:Sounds like you may have DuraSpark 3 instead of 2 if you have a slide on connector on the coil. 2 used a typical old school coil setup. I was a bit surprised to see a blue grommet on the box yesterday so I may have some version of ds2. Distributor internal wiring looked pretty bad so I tossed in the replacement. Have too many errands to run after work to take it today but I'll probably drive it in tomorrow or maybe take it for a test drive this evening. Imgur is being lovely so if you want to see poorly lit unfocused pics - https://photos.app.goo.gl/wkVo9xjnjCyNxKzh9 I'm also never buying cheap spark plug leads again, I swear there's no feedback if these stupid things are snapped on or not.
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Dec 3, 2018 11:25
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I have three Girling master that are seized up, brand new 30 years ago when they were installed before the car was parked. I have them sitting with brake fluid in them seeing if it'll help at all. I've heard of boiling them in various things but haven't tried anything yet. I'd rather rebuild ($25) than replace ($135) if possible. Any tips on what to soak or boil them in to help break things loose? I'm hesitant to hit them to break them loose in case it scores the cylinder walls.
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Jun 12, 2019 22:04
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When I was in the midwest a decade ago the local (Minneapolis) BMW club hosted teen and adult car control clinics, this might be something you could look for. Depending on the student and what they wanted to focus on the day could be geared towards performance, precision or general spacial awareness and competence behind the wheel. This wasn't BMW specific and I instructed in everything from pickup trucks and SUVs to sports and race cars. The autocross suggestion is also really good if you can find a casual group that isn't super strict about things. Go volunteer to chase cones for a day, good way to meet people and have fun, then you generally get a few runs at the end of the day or during lunch if you don't want to pay and "compete".
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Mar 31, 2022 11:28
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Echoing Powershift and nitsuga, see what Carmax/Carvana/Vroom offer based on the VIN. Options are very important on a car like that so run the VIN through the sites Powershift mentioned to get an idea of how the car is equipped. If you feel like it is worth the extra work to sell private I would post to local area BMW facebook groups for 5-10% higher than your best carvana/carmax offer and see if there is interest. If you go the private sale route spend a few hundred to have it cleaned and detailed, there is an amazing amount for $50k+ cars for sale that are absolutely filthy.
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Apr 2, 2022 12:17
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Sab669 posted:I feel like I could've gotten a little more privately if I sold my RS than what the dealer's going to give me on Monday, but yea selling a car is a pain. And I've only ever sold a $3K Corolla, never mind something worth tens of thousands. Seems to me that an auction site would be easier than dealing with tire kickers on Craigslist / Facebook groups etc? But of course gathering all the documentation/photos is in and of itself a pain Sab669 posted:I just wonder how much of a hassle the actual transaction is, once the auction ends. Like how does that work. If they aren't local do they just mail you a check? Do the auction sites act as like an escrow service in any way? KakerMix, Everdave and a few others have sold cars on those platforms. Several have bought from them. I bought our basket case Fiat from BaT and that pretty much turned me off of buying from there.
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Apr 2, 2022 17:19
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Would you rather be stuck in a snow/ice storm on summer tires or add a little extra wear to your winter tires? We've been caught in a blizzard on summer performance tires, one time was enough to ensure I leave winter tires on a little longer than needed.
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Apr 13, 2022 14:02
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Kia Soul Enthusias posted:It went by kinda fast and I guess there's no rewind on tiktok, was all that dirt on the filtered or unfiltered side of the air filter? I use extractors on all the cars that will work with it but even when using that I'll pull the drain plug every few oil changes because while you'll get most of the oil with an extractor it's unlikely to get ALL of it. Half the time I use the extractor to get the majority of the oil so I can use a smaller drain pan and have less chance of making a mess.
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May 7, 2022 11:05
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norton I posted:Does anyone have experience with Hooked on Driving or another one of those HDPE clubs/instructors? Come join us in the track day and racing thread - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3490129 Novice groups are VERY beginner friendly and when registering you'll generally be asked your experience level and paired with an appropriate instructor. Track day insurance is cheap and well worth it. Car prep is pretty much replace fluids, make sure pads and tires have material on them and empty any junk out of the car. HPDE is great fun
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May 12, 2022 11:48
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Hadlock posted:Harbor freight has pretty reasonable jacks. Get at least two jack stands and ALWAYS use them. They're like $9.99 each. Also cheap and really nice to have around are rubber wheel chocks that won't slip or roll out of the way if they're temporarily unweighted. I have a stack of these in the corner of the garage - https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-rubber-wheel-chock-96479.html
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May 17, 2022 21:17
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GWBBQ posted:There's lots of advice out there on tire pressure for non-OEM rims and tires, and like most advice on the internet I assume it's mostly terrible and aggressively wrong. Is there a good guide for finding the proper tire pressure for aftermarket tires and wheels? Find the sticker, usually on the driver or passenger door frame, that lists the manufacturer recommended tire pressures and use that. Unless you're running some crazy track rubber or something very specialized that will get you close enough and is a good starting point.
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May 23, 2022 11:42
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Start it and ideally let it idle up to operating temperature. Keep an eye on the temp gauge while also checking for leaks or new puddles. Turn off the a/c so you don't get a condensation puddle.
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Jun 4, 2022 22:50
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They do but really you can buy the one that'll fit your shortest car in the 5000lb version and be done with it. The 5000TL is their "most popular model" and what I have, I've lifted everything from the caterham to the highlander. Once you've used them a few times they take about the same amount of time to setup and use as you would with jack and jack stands. Anytime I'm doing something where I'll want more than two wheels off the ground I use mine.
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Jun 10, 2022 11:27
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DildenAnders posted:What's the best way to go about putting down a refundable deposit when looking to buy a used car from the previous owner? Am I just going to have to trust the other person to give it back if I don't buy the car? I've done similar to Raluek with a local car after bank hours, traded a deposit (max ATM amount) for keys and the title. Otherwise if it's not local unless it's very special you are 100% trusting the seller to not be a dick. I suppose one option would be send the money via paypal or similar as payment for a good or service then if the car ends up being misrepresented they give you a refund, if they won't you take it up with paypal or whatever credit card you have linked to your account. It's not a great option but it is an option.
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Jun 11, 2022 11:14
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joat mon posted:1997 Ford Ranger with the 2.3. If you can get to it easily connect 12v directly to the fuel pump to test the issue isn't between the relay and the pump. If no pump buzz with 12v replace the fuel pump. You might have to settle with "close enough" and apply power to the wires running to the pump.
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Jul 15, 2022 18:20
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Steve French posted:Looking for some tips when buying a used car private party from out of state. I've been looking for a particular car in good condition with relatively uncommon options, found one in good shape and low miles with everything I'm looking for (on Autotrader), but it's in Wisconsin and I'm in California. I've had a PPI done and negotiated a mutually agreeable price with the seller, and feel fine enough at this point without seeing the car personally about risk of unseen issues. Most of the time I've done exactly what he suggested, wire the money and they send the title. There is risk involved but unless you have someone local you trust or you fly up there to exchange cash for the title it's the standard way to do it.
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Jul 20, 2022 18:21
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Len posted:My partner drives a 2009 nissan versa and it's been acting up in regards to starting. On saturday we took it to the store, when we went back out to the car it wouldn't start. Put the key in, everything lit up, but turning it did nothing. She called roadside assistance to get it towed, i had a buddy take me home to get my car and i took her and our groceries home then went back to wait for the tow truck. Getting back it started no problem It's likely a starter issue as the other replies mentioned but check your battery connections, especially the battery to ground cable. I had this issue on a car years ago.
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Jul 29, 2022 10:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think that shop is trying to gently caress you. Check the connections going to the coils for corrosion or gunk, moving things around to narrow down the issue was a good move.
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Aug 3, 2022 11:46
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BrianM87 posted:I have a stupid question and didn’t see a more appropriate thread to ask in. If you have pictures and VIN you might be able to post in local car facebook groups to track it down, isn't likely but you never know.
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Aug 6, 2022 19:31
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Travic posted:I posted a while ago about wanting to learn to drive a manual. I mentioned learning it to my Dad and he very graciously offered to let me borrow his old '94 Ford Ranger for a while. Currently I can get up and moving and driving around my neighborhood. Hill starts are possible most of the time, but really steep hills are iffy. I have a few questions though. Travic posted:I may not be explaining this well. Sorry. Driving around the clutch is out and I'm in gear. I only put the clutch in if I'm stopping or shifting. I'll try shifting at a lower rpm and see if that helps. I don't think it's the engine bogging down. I've had that happen a few times. This feels quite literally like a single quick jolt any time I let off the gas in any gear. Basic technique aside how trashed are the engine/transmission/differential/etc mounts in this thing? I feel like the whole driveline moving around would exacerbate any non-smooth inputs.
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Jun 15, 2023 11:40
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MetaJew posted:By no means am I suggesting my car is a Ferrari. It just seems like a kind of fun thing to try my hand at and I did not want a black car when I found this one.... But the quotes I've gotten for a color change vinyl wrap are upwards of $5k in my city. It's your car, do what you want and ignore anyone that says otherwise (for the most part). Prep of the surface before applying the wrap is just as, if not more, important than putting down the wrap. Ideally you do a full detail with clay bar on the area right before wrapping to give it a clean surface to adhere to. Don't but the cheap vinyl, buy more than you need, and take your time. The reason full color change is so expensive is that most of the time it includes going over the entire car with a clay bar essentially doing a full detail as well as partial disassembly of the car. It's a lot of labor hours to do it right.
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Jul 7, 2023 10:28
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MetaJew posted:Right, so to that end does anyone have recommendations on where to buy good quality vinyl material, tools, knifeless tape, etc? Things like squeegees and knives seem to be pretty easy to comeby from Amazon, but more specialty tools like knifeless tape, I'm not sure about. I've seen a few people recommend https://metrorestyling.com/ and go with 3m or avery. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Jul 8, 2023 |
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Jul 8, 2023 11:54
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Sarah Cenia posted:so my car (1995 Corolla) just died for good and it has these size tires on it, and they're brand new: https://tiresize.com/calculator/ 
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Jul 17, 2023 15:33
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Sub Rosa posted:I have not tested it in this condition. It was tested at a part shop. Guess I need to get some sort of electric meter to try to narrow this down, any suggestions? If you don't have a meter at home it might be worth having the local auto parts store test the battery and alternator. I haven't done it in a long time but I think they have tests they can run without removing anything.
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Jul 20, 2023 16:01
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opengl posted:I'm slapping a hitch on my Vibe to drag my bike to track days. They're expensive but check out aluma trailers, I was able to find a 7x10 large enough to tow the caterham/locost behind the vw that was right around 400lb. I've also seen people bolt a ramp or piece of u-channel to a single jet ski trailer.
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Sep 6, 2023 21:19
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VelociBacon posted:I'll just vouch for the Continental ExtremeContact series for wet conditions. I think it goes by a different name now (instead of DW and DWS for the all weather) but I've never been as impressed with tires in my life. I've done track days in the rain with them and the grip was phenomenal. Driving to work on the highway through standing water and you would never know it was there. This is pretty important if you live somewhere (Vancouver, Seattle) with tons of rain. Farmer Crack-rear end posted:I'd like to get a car cover but I remember hearing from someone years ago that the cover they got damaged the paint on their car. What should I look out for when selecting a car cover? Any recommended sources or brands?
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Oct 20, 2023 18:36
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Honestly I've had good luck emailing the dmv when I have any strange questions. Might be better or worse depending on state and stuff but then you have an written response and they should tell you what needs to be done.
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Nov 2, 2023 21:14
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Sent you a PM with the shipping broker I use. Get a PPI and ideally fly out to test drive and look it over.
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Nov 10, 2023 16:31
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Another option would be to install the permanent leads on the battery, they come with some trickle chargers, then have the plug somewhere more easily accessible.
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Nov 30, 2023 21:36
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Not to be contrarian but how is connecting a trickle charger directly to a battery less safe than connecting it to the more easily accessible jump points? Other than some mild resistance differences it's the same thing. You really have to do something wrong to wreck a battery with any decent trickle charger, most have built in safeties so they won't charge if hooked up backwards or if the battery is too low. I could see someone wrecking a battery by using it to jump another car incorrectly whether using the jump points or direct connection.
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Dec 1, 2023 13:43
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I'm honestly not concerned with maintaining value so much as I just want to have a car that looks nice for as long as possible. The combination of sun, road grit from dirty snow, hail, and increasingly dirty rain is harsh here, and I'm amazed at the amount of gravel that gets kicked up on interstates. I'd never gotten a rock chip in a windshield till I moved here and I've had probably 6 across 4 different work and personal vehicles in the last 10 years. PPF front/leading edges then ceramic coat everything is a good compromise to a full PPF wrap.
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Jan 20, 2024 12:01
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Check ebay
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Jan 24, 2024 22:02
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Hagerty also has a valuation tool which lets you see ranges and changes over time. Looks like they've changed it so you only get to see Good Condition price without registering and I think locks you out after a few searches. https://www.hagerty.com/valuation-tools
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Mar 6, 2024 19:51
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Krakkles posted:I came into this thread to ask why my brakes might be shaking only once they're hot (I.e., they're fine for a while, but if you drive 30 miles in traffic, they'll shake bad as you get off the freeway), but I'm going to go make sure my lug nuts are tight before I actually ask. Warped rotors are exceedingly rare, I would lean more towards pad deposits. Go find a long empty stretch of road, get up to 60mph then brake HARD down to 5-10mph immediately accelerate back up to 60mph and do it again. Do this several times, say 5-6 to get a lot of heat into the brakes, then just cruise for a while with as little braking as possible to let things cool back down. This will clean the pad and rotor surface and is generally referred to as bedding in brakes which is recommended when you put new pads on old rotors.
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Mar 25, 2024 20:02
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Stand up, look down at your feet... This is similar amount of contact patch your cars tires have with the road to handle ALL direction changes. Don't cheap out on tires.
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Apr 2, 2024 18:16
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