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AquarianFire posted:2002 Nissan Sentra...stalling... quote:2. Wouldn't the mass air flow sensor throw a code? Unplug the MAF. Any change? Phyiscally remove the crank sensor and check for oil in the connector. Slavvy posted:97 Toyota Tercel with a 4E-FE. Efi is a simple MAP sensor system with an electronic distributor, one 02 sensor and not much else. Unplug every sensor. Does it idle on ECM default readings?
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Feb 8, 2015 23:49
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Slavvy posted:At least parts cost a pittance. Sounds like it's narrowed down to management systems, at least. Question re: 2003 Toyota Echo A/T, crank, no start We got this in as a trade, and I picked it up to replace my mom's identical car, since hers has the rockers and subframe rotting out, and this one does not. Customer drove it in on its own power, with no real issues. I left it outside in freezing temps for a week or so, now it won't start. No codes. Has spark. Techs at my shop told me fuel pump wasn't running. Replaced with wrecker part, no change. I can feel the pump run with my hand on it. I have only the key the customer drove the car to us with, which worked when we drove it in the first day. What's next?
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Feb 10, 2015 04:23
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Slavvy posted:Assuming you don't have a scan tool that can go beyond just looking at fault codes, unplug an injector and stick a pulse led on it to see if they're getting a signal. No immobilizer, looks to be the 1nz-fe. Pulse led? Is that some kind of special injector pulse reading tool? Or just any test light? What would cause all the injectors to fail a week after running fine? Or are we thinking they aren't getting the signal to fire? I'll check that and anything I can read off a scan tool tomorrow. I want to get this going for my mom but not if it's going to be unreliable. And after she just bought me a car for my birthday! 
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Feb 11, 2015 03:56
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Slavvy posted:It's basically a little round plastic disc with an LED inside and two terminals. You plug it into an injector connector to see if the injector's getting a pulse - safer for the ecu than a test light. quote:The fact that it's no fuel AND no spark makes me think CKPS, look at the live data and see if you can see both crank and cam sensor signals. When this car came in, we scanned and it had an EVAP code. I tried to get crank sensor readings, or any DTCs today, and it can't connect through the DLC. No DLC + no injector pulse/nostart = bad ecu? Why would this happen so suddenly? ExecuDork posted:I'm a little confused about the process here. Is it: quote:My confusion is: can you drive around for most of a week without plates? Do you get temporary plates of some kind when you buy a car? Do I ask the seller to leave the plates on the car until I can get the registration and insurance all arranged? Can you get an emissions test with temporary or previous-owner's plates? quote:EDIT: I'll be moving to Kitchener/Waterloo, if that makes any difference. This is where I live, so let me know if you need any assistance. As a bonus, I work at a dealership.
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Feb 13, 2015 01:33
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Thanks. I'll double check voltage at the injector plugs. I did check the EFI fuse and it was ok. I know there were a couple weird fuse names, and I checked most, but AM2 doesn't ring a bell. Looks like multimeter time.
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Feb 13, 2015 03:34
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic EX 5MT. The shifter won't go into first gear! Every other gear is available and engages smoothly. The clutch pedal feels normal (changed the fluid in August or so). When you move the shifter forward into first, it feels like something is blocking it and pushing the shifter to the right at an angle as you push forward. It moves forward about half way before you feel it being deflected. I don't have time to get underneath it until tomorrow, but anyone have any ideas? Is this when stationary? Is it really cold where you are? Two of my cars nearly refuse to go into first when it's cold unless I'm standing still. Like not even rolling in the driveway. When warmer, they're both less picky.
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Feb 22, 2015 15:44
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1998 Mazda B4000, manual. Last year, it was hard to shift into first and second. Very quickly, I couldn't clutch at all. I ended up replacing the clutch friction plate, pressure plate, slave cylinder, master cylinder and hydraulic line between them. Aside from the weird plastic fingers that hold the master cylinder pushrod to the pedal breaking when I breathed on them too hard, everything was great. Last week, I noticed it started to get hard to shift into all gears equally. There is no noticeable drag, so I don't think it's a bad clutch or slave. (This is a concentric, internal slave cylinder) When I clutch in, and try to shift, it feels like I'm pressing against a wall in the tranny. With a few attempts, or sometimes some pressure, it will drop in. I think it's better moving than stationary. Is this synchros? How can I check/diagnose this? edit: to add 4x4, in case that matters
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Mar 23, 2015 02:18
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Slavvy posted:I agree the oil filter explanation is unsatisfactory. I can say the genuine oil filter is almost double the external diameter than most companies list for the aftermarket part. Maybe they're slightly different inside somehow and it impedes the flow? I dunno. Engine rattle complaints were fairly common when I was working at Nissan. Almost every single one was caused by an aftermarket oil filter, and solved by changing. The techs suggested something about the anti-drain back valves. For <  it's worth a shot.For my question, crossposted from the Volvo thread due to low traffic: I bought this 2005 S60 2.5T AWD. Seems to mostly be in good shape and drives nice, but a couple days after starting to drive it, I got a few codes and MIL popped on. Codes are 640D Turbo Control/Turbo signal low (P2281 OBD), and 216D/21E0 Long term fuel stuck lean (P2188 OBD) Also translates as Adaptive Heated O2 faulty signal. These are unfamiliar to me. Google yields very little, especially anything with successful fixes. Where do I even start? update: Two days ago, I couldn't start it. It cranks and starts normally, then fires up and stalls. Nothing obviously out of place, loose, sucking air or anything else strange under the hood. I unplugged the MAF, and it started and idled perfectly. It also started after I plugged it back in, and I drove it home. Been riding my bike since then, so not sure what will happen next time.
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May 31, 2015 14:15
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mr.belowaverage posted:For my question, crossposted from the Volvo thread due to low traffic: Quoting myself for followup. It rained literally all day today, but it just stopped long enough to pull the intake and MAF. MAF is pristine, almost new looking. Bosch unit, so exact OEM. Intake is clear, no cracks or anything. Now I'm at a loss..
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Jun 1, 2015 02:11
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RE: 1998 Mazda B4000 pickup with a manual My beater truck has started to give me some grief. It's still running well, but the clutch is acting up. The symptom list is getting mixed results from my own deductions, my coworkers, the local tranny shop and the internet. Here's what's happening: -From cold, everything is dandy. Shifts well and clutch operation is normal -After driving between 30 and 60 minutes, it might develop an issue where the clutch pedal has normal resistance feel, but you cannot shift easily. It becomes 'notchy', and if you're stopped at a light, you cannot shift into first with the clutch in. You must stop the engine, shift into gear and then restart. -You can keep the clutch in when it's like this, and it won't grab more as you sit there and eventually stall. The clutch keeps working well enough to not lug or stall. -Pumping the clutch has no effect on function, and feel remains constant -Fluid level is normal, bleeding has had no effect -Sometimes, but not often, that is a clashing/grinding/rattling sound possible from the transmission area. It only lasts a second -On drives longer than an hour or so, a medium pitched howl will develop, but is only present when the clutch is depressed. Driving along in gear causes the howling to stop So, this happened about two years ago, and I assumed slave cylinder failure and noise from the throw out/release bearing, or maybe pilot bearing. I replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate, the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and slave cylinder, and the master cylinder and hydraulic line (because the line fitting at the slave wouldn't come off and I had to cut it). The flywheel looked good, and was given a light once-over by a machine shop. Tell me, do I have a box full of bad parts giving me the same failure as before, or have I never solved the original problem? This truck only sees about 2000 miles/year. It won't be normal wear and tear. But I'm being told to replace the slave cylinder, or the bearings, or the pressure plate, or bleed the master, etc etc. I don't want to just throw parts at it without understanding the issue.
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Feb 17, 2017 03:54
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Symptoms are classic worn master cylinder that leaks when hot, but you said you replaced that. Yep. And no signs of fluid or fluid loss. I have found I can reproduce the gnashing sound somewhat reliably by holding the clutch partially in. Does this mean anything relevant? fickle poofterist posted:Is my engine interference? Um I bought the car a week ago and it has had every service on time, but I will check that when I get home... I hope you're wrong You felt it quit abruptly.
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Feb 18, 2017 01:56
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X-posting from the Volvo thread for better exposure: I've been chasing hard-starting and the "Reduced engine performance" error for many months now, but recently it became worse. The car stumbles and has stalled, and is currently actively misfiring. All components read and test ok with scan tool, so a visual inspection was in order. In the depths of piping surrounding the RPM/crankshaft position sensor, I was able to discover that the mounting bracket was broken and mostly missing. So though the sensor seemed to test ok, it was not steady. Replacement of the bracket is in order. Removing the front bolt was a royal pain, but the rear bolt seems impossible. There is no space between the bolt head and a casting bump on the bellhousing. Does removing the RPM sensor bracket require removing the transmission? Did I find the bolt the car was built around?   tl;dr: How do I remove bolt? edit: To add that this is the same 2005 S60 2.5T I have previously posted about, though it's not strictly relevent to impossible bolt removals
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Jul 7, 2018 23:41
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2005 Colorado Z71 4x4 with 3.5L 5-cylinder, Canadian model. I can't get it to start. It ran one day and not the next. I was sure I posted about it, but I can't find a post by myself so maybe not. I'm 99% sure there's no injector pulse. I can confirm fuel to the rail at 50-60psi, but none in the cylinders. It will start briefly if I feed it alternate fuel like carb cleaner through the intake. Some research suggested if the crank sensor signal goes, it will cut fuel, so I replaced the sensor but it made no difference. There are no fault codes stored, so I was skeptical the sensor would matter but it may just not have coded since it failed between engine cycles.. maybe. I checked the connector to the fuel injector harness at the back of the engine, and it had the constant power or ground where it should (I can't remember which now. I think it was constant 12V with switched ground, but I had the diagram at the time and it was correct) but the other signal never appeared. As far as I can tell this means it's never sending a signal to the injectors to open. That's what let me to the crank sensor. I also traced the path to that connector, and the relays seems good for PCM and ignition signals. Beyond that I get stuck, because the wiring schematic I have doesn't match my wire colours exactly. I really need this thing for reno work and snowy days and I'm at my wits end.
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Dec 18, 2021 16:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Is there a light on for the security system? I think the computer might withhold fuel if it doesn't read a coded key. I can try that next. Security is ok. I actually ran through the relearn for passkey or whatever they call it. I’m also told the Canadian version does not function as an interlock/fuel cut.
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Dec 18, 2021 23:15
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mr.belowaverage posted:I can try that next. Security is ok. I actually ran through the relearn for passkey or whatever they call it. I’m also told the Canadian version does not function as an interlock/fuel cut. So live data suggests a crank signal, as I can read engine rpm. Beyond that what I can scan looked fine, and it still has no fault codes. Towing it to the dealer tonight as I’m out of ideas.
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Dec 21, 2021 20:25
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Raluek posted:does it generate the rpm signal from the crank or cam sensor? if the crank, could the cam sensor be out, since that ought to control spark? would really expect that to generate a code, though Good question, and I’m going on anecdotal advice here. I’m told the crank can be responsible for fuel cut, and fuel (injector pulse) is what’s missing. I have spark, so if the cam sensor times spark, it’s working. The good news is, the right rear brake is stuck on from sitting while I screwed around so the tow truck couldn’t get it. It’s currently nosed-in to my narrow driveway on a downtown city street, so needs to be pushed into the road to load 
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Dec 23, 2021 15:01
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Raluek posted:im not sure that its safe to rule out the crank position sensor because you get an rpm signal when cranking, because i dont know for sure which sensor generates that signal, but if you do know that then ignore. i would be surprised for it not to throw a code if it was either sensor, though. Good point, but I’m also ruling it out because I replaced it! quote:i did find this advice on a colorado forum, though, and it could be something to check? This could be worth checking, but the thing that’s weird to me is that it ran fine one day, I parked in my driveway, and the next day it was dead. If it was grounds I would have expected some intermittent trouble leading up to this. But that’s not necessarily true. quote:in another thread, there was this: Yeah, so apparently that doesn’t apply to Canadian models. However, I did relearn the keys anyway to be sure. I managed to lock them out trying, and then did successfully reprogrammed them. The security light was on when I screwed then up, but now it isn’t. Also of note, the Canuck truck did not crank with the security light on! Cage posted:Years ago when I removed tint I remember soaking it with ammonia (window cleaner) on a warm day and then covering it with either black garbage bags or aluminum foil and letting it sit. Assuming since its the dead of winter you cant do that but yeah the answer is varying degrees of heating up and breaking up the adhesive. Bear in mind two points here: 1. Most window cleaner no longer contains ammonia 2. If you have defrost lines on that window, I’d avoid a scraper. They are pretty delicate.
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Dec 24, 2021 14:06
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spankmeister posted:So you do want OEM parts. They're usually a lot cheaper than dealer parts but just as good because they're the same part or 99% the same. Basically this. It’s usually easy to find the OEM supplier and buy that, if you want. Rockauto is pretty good for showing which is OEM in my experience. So is the NAPA trade site, not sure what the public site looks like. It’s worth doing a little homework either way. I work for a dealer group, and we frequently have listings that are actually cheaper than aftermarket options, but consumers typically have the same ‘stealership’ attitude Motronic is displaying. I would say just don’t discount them automatically without checking. Aside from specialty fluid, most of our fluid is just brand name stuff like our 80w90 is Pennzoil, etc I owned a Vibe for a number of years, and when I needed a replacement part I checked both Pontiac/GM and Toyota. It was a crap shoot who was cheaper, and my experience in the industry suggests the fastest moving parts have the best pricing due to supply and demand. Super uncommon parts are usually ridiculous, but also unavailable in the aftermarket. Think fold-down seat latches and armrests.
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Dec 25, 2021 15:02
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mr.belowaverage posted:
So the dealer separated me from 400 of my dollars to tell me that it was flooded and needed an oil change and plugs. I questioned this as from what I could tell, I wasn’t getting fuel, and I had just done plugs and an oil change a month or so ago. They went to look into it further and get back to me. A couple hours later they tell me it has low compression and that’s why it won’t start. They said cylinders were around 150-160-180 and spec is 215psi. I’m very skeptical because it ran fine one day, had plenty of power and pull, starts without issue and the next morning didn’t even try to start. I could get it to run briefly when my buddy sprayed carb cleaner into the intake while I cranked it. Is my mechanical understanding just poo poo and my engine lost workable compression from one day to the next?
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Jan 7, 2022 05:59
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PainterofCrap posted:No. They're the problem, not you. Great. This was my suspicion, but what do I do? I inquired further today and they assured me they verified fuel/injector pulse, and verified timing. They said the motor is scrap. Edit: to say I looked into the crank angle relearn procedure before, and it is definitely recommended if you replace the CKP sensor, but the directions even with GM Tech II say it has to be running, so that’s a non-starter, no pun intended mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Jan 8, 2022 |
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Jan 8, 2022 01:45
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Motronic posted:You get to towed elsewhere because the experience of the place you are dealing with tops out at "oil changes". Easy to say. This is the largest, most reputable GM dealer in the area and I have a professional acquaintance with the service manager. All the shops in my own dealer group are import brands, and most of my guys don’t want to look at domestic trucks. I’ve been in the business in my area for the past 15 years. There’s a real dearth of quality shops here so I’m at a loss where I’d get a second opinion.
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Jan 8, 2022 01:58
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PainterofCrap posted:If you have a good working relationship with the service manager, and you show him/her what you just told us, they should go through the roof. I’ll have to test this theory. I genuinely find quality work to be the rarest thing. Like literally impossible to find as a customer, and just as hard to cultivate and enforce as a manager myself.
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Jan 8, 2022 04:39
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Shyfted One posted:Yeah, I doubt the PD will care or even do anything with the information. But who knows, maybe they do. As much as it sucks it's not that bad because our insurance is good, but they pushed my car back enough that it cracked the front bumper of my neighbor's car who's in her 70's and she's too nervous to drive it until it gets looked at and fixed. I'm more annoyed that this is inconveniencing her since she also helps look after and drop off/pick up her grandson from daycare. The police came by my shop a couple months ago with parts off a car asking if we could identify them for their investigation, so you never know.
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Jan 22, 2022 15:43
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KillHour posted:This doesn't change the advice but my Aston actually had a problem where the programming on the ECU caused some O2 sensor to actually burn out or some poo poo. I swear, the inventive ways car companies find to break poo poo is impressive. Some parts that produce data include recommended updates as the control parameters have been changed along with the part’s specs. I have found this common with O2 sensor jobs, but mostly for sensors triggering particular codes rather than wearing out. That said, if your random thingamabobber just wore out, the replacement part may still be updated even if that’s not why you’re buying it. Dealer TSBs should say whether update is required. I can almost guarantee the appointment bookers and service advisors will not know which cases require this, and half the techs will run an update if they find one available whether it is applicable or not. Also, we would never do an update for free at any dealer in my group, or any one I’ve worked at previously.
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Feb 17, 2022 13:58
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Sniep posted:Howdy! I have a not-1-year-old-yet 2021 Ford Explorer XLT with the 2.3L ecoboost and the power liftgate is broken. It wont open or close, but sometimes on it's own will try to close for a portion of the swing, seemingly at random. The dealership says they aren't taking warranty work right now only paid work so it'd be months and months out to get in, what are my other options? I'm sure its just a computer setting somewhere, but the manual only explains how to set the max height, not to reset the open/closed points, which is where I think it's getting hung up. Anyone know any super sekret Ford commands that will reprogram a power liftgate? Thanks! Open/close set points should be in the manual, but I’d be calling corporate to let them know there is a dealer refusing warranty jobs outright. There’s no way they’re allowed to be doing that.
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Feb 21, 2022 01:17
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I’m looking at a couple C4 Corvettes this weekend. Should I buy one y/n?
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Apr 2, 2022 21:36
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GOD IS BED posted:My friend let me drive his 95 and it's a trip, even with his worn suspension and auto transmission. Feels as big as my van, as low as my Miata, and as fast as both of them put together. Ridiculously fun. Do it. Yeah manuals are unattainable, so it would be an auto. Not the best, but for easy summer driving I won’t mind. Anything to look out for in this gen specifically?
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Apr 3, 2022 00:07
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GOD IS BED posted:If this was directed at me, I'm sorry I don't have any advice for you here. My friend got his from a family member and didn't seek it out. No, my friend. I just didn’t want to double-post to piggy back that question. Figured the AI hive-mind would have Opinions. IOwnCalculus posted:No. See? This is the solid advice I come for. I’m probably going to pass on the ‘84 and go for the ‘87 after reading up on the available engines. The ‘87 is several thousand more, but overall in better shape. Seems the torque curve on the L98 is significantly better than the L83. The post-91 LT1’s are quite a bit more, and I’m really buying the whole car for the incredible 80s digital dash.
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Apr 5, 2022 13:02
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Making some progress with my stupid 2005 Colorado. If anyone recalls the dealer diagnosed what I thought was a no injector pulse problem as no compression, and needs an engine. A colleague was able to help and found a broken injector harness wire but fuel delivery was still poor, and pressure dropped off from 55psi originally when trying to run. Dropped the tank to maybe replace the fuel pump and found the whole sender assembly just loosely resting in the hole. It’s spring loaded, so it compresses when you put the lock ring on it. Turns out the flange on the tank is a metal piece molded into the plastic tank, and that flange has rusted away. Tank is fine otherwise, but being basically wide open it was full of all kinds of debris. My problem is now that there are basically no used tanks, no new tanks, and no aftermarket. This seems to be common across GM models with this tank design, and lots of chatter and head scratching is found on related car forums. Plan right now is just drill the lock ring and screw it to the tank. This is a redneck truck only deserving of a redneck fix. 
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Apr 29, 2022 13:32
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Chunjee posted:I saw a youtube video dealing with that exact problem. Glued it in with this repair kit: https://www.gastankrenu.net/search-by-year/gm-plastic-gas-tank-lock-ring-repair Yeah, I saw that kit. We made an even cheaper version: 
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Apr 29, 2022 23:00
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STR posted:Contact Kia corporate. There's an active recall on a whole slew of Hyundai and Kia engines for knocking/blowing up/failing/etc. The dealer should know drat well about the recall, I'm sure they've done dozens, if not hundreds, of them by now. They don't LIKE doing them because (a) they don't get paid as much for warranty/recall work and (b) they have to build the engines there, I don't think Kia supplies an assembled long block to them. So long as your cousin has kept good records of oil changes and maintenance, Kia should take care of him. Several of the shops I run are Kia or Hyundai branded. I love doing warranty engines for customers. It’s good warranty pay, and the customer is happy. There are several tiers of campaigns on the engines. If you’re in the original one (which has related class-actions) you’ll get taken care of in a big way. If you’re in one of the expanded classes, less so. Generally all classes but the big one are limited to 10 years/120k miles. You need at least one oil change record within 12 months, but we also have to check for sludge.
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May 31, 2022 14:14
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SeldomSeen posted:Any ideas where I can get just the shell for the keyfob? I have never worked at a dealership where we did not have a bucket of random mystery keys collected over years. Bring them coffee and ask if they have one that matches yours. I might even have one I can mail you from here (Canada) HashtagGirlboss posted:it went in on April 15. gloom posted:She calls the shop every month for an update and gets the same answer, that they’re still waiting on the manufacturer. Latest estimate is mid July but LOL. I have at least a dozen customers at body shops with incomplete cars waiting on parts from our various brands. We keep getting release dates that get pushed back over and over. So we tell a shop June 15, then by the 12th or 15th even it updates and says July 30. So much supply chain and shipping delay fuckery. It’s probably no one’s fault. At the same time, the poor communication is the easiest thing to fix, but the hardest thing to get. People are so lazy and get distracted. I will literally remind someone to call a customer 3 times and by 5pm find out they still haven’t done it because something else distracted them. No, it’s not my job to call. Yes, I will often do so anyway.
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Jun 21, 2022 14:01
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1988 Corvette 5.8 auto I abruptly had a crank-no start condition last week. Drove to work no problem, no start at the end of the day. Cranks strong, feel like fuel starvation. Work is a shop, so had the techs check and there was fuel pressure with key on, but drops immediately under load. They checked the filter and lines, and recommended a fuel pump. I replaced the pump, and it started first try. It ran perfectly for about 5 minutes, then started to surge. Felt like it was dropping rpm, then would get a boost. I understand this model has some kind of stall saver, but not sure how it works. After a bit of this it died and won’t restart. It sat for a day, then needed to be moved and started first try and drove a short distance. Then wouldn’t restart again. What are common fuel delivery issues, and what do I check first here?
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Jul 11, 2023 13:19
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mr.belowaverage posted:1988 Corvette 5.8 auto Dr. Lunchables posted:I’d check/replace your fuel filter. Particulate choking off a new pump and your ECU asking for more fuel, then forcing a bunch through and your ECU cuts pump production. Ok so I replaced my fuel filter yesterday since it’s a $5 part. Once thing that was weird was after disconnecting it, the Vette just kept. Leaking. Gas. After I while I just worked through the constant shower to put the new one in. Of course it wouldn’t line up for some reason so this 5 minute job took an hour. About a gallon of gas came out while I worked. Does this tank just gravity feed the lines? Geez. Did I mention I’m doing this on the ground? Would not recommend. This car is kinda.. low. Then I replaced the TPS sensor. I had checked its output and it wasn’t going over 3ish volts at WOT, which should be 5V. So can’t hurt. Top bolt out, bottom bolt immediately breaks off flush with throttle body. I’m going to have to remove the whole thing to try to fix it on a bench as there’s no room to come at it straight. Pretty sure the PO had this one in cross-threaded as it was at a very slight angle. I clean up and go to start it. It starts instantly. Like so instantly it felt like it was starting before I turned the key it was so quick. It idles smoothly. Revs nicely. I’m even sure it sounded stronger and smoother than it did before this problem. Then after about 5 minutes it starts to labour. Bogs. Surges slightly and quietly. Eventually stumbles. Stalls if you put it in gear. Cranks but won’t start. If you floor it on and off while cranking it’ll race to life but goes back to stumbling without throttle. Eventually dies even with throttle. What the heck do I do? TL;DR: back where I started
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Jul 16, 2023 16:59
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honda whisperer posted:Sounds like possibly vapor lock? Get it in a no start condition then take the gas cap off. If you hear the tank suck in air and it starts after you're basically getting a vacuum in your tank. This thing apparently has a normally open canister valve, closed by the ECM on start, and then opened when the ECM decides. Not sure if that’s the only inlet for the tank, but there is a small hole next to the cap on the filler neck. It’s worth a test.
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Jul 16, 2023 19:18
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sleepy gary posted:Nooooooo. Is that the one with air powered lock actuators? And the door lock buttons are recessed flush? There is a way to access the air tubing to run the actuator, but I can’t remember where. A coat hanger might let you tug the door handle enough to open the door, but you have to do it twice or once to unlock then maybe the outside handle will open it. A tip for the future is to add a two-prong charger lead to the battery, and extend it out somewhere accessible like below the rad or under the trunk somewhere so you can put juice to it.
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Jul 23, 2023 16:31
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honda whisperer posted:Sounds like possibly vapor lock? Get it in a no start condition then take the gas cap off. If you hear the tank suck in air and it starts after you're basically getting a vacuum in your tank. mr.belowaverage posted:This thing apparently has a normally open canister valve, closed by the ECM on start, and then opened when the ECM decides. Not sure if that’s the only inlet for the tank, but there is a small hole next to the cap on the filler neck. It’s worth a test. I finally got out to my corvette and tried this. No dice. Didn’t even start initially to try the gas cap. I removed it and tried starting again with no change. It was hot that day, so going to try a fuel pump relay as they apparently age and fail when hot.
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Aug 4, 2023 21:48
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This thing is driving me nuts. Every time I mess with it, it’ll run smooth and strong for 5-10 minutes. Then it goes to idle surging, then stumbling, then dies. Then it won’t restart. So far replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, TPS, and fuel pump relay. No change. It has a pressure gauge port on the fuel rail. It starts strong then drops off. It’s EFI. It seems to ‘fix itself’ after sitting a bit. I feel like it’s some command that changes after reaching closed loop causing it to lean out excessively. But I have no real data to support this Video of the surging: https://imgur.com/a/Bc0IpFX
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Aug 14, 2023 13:23
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Powershift posted:Just as something to look into, that does sound like the behaviour of a stick idle air control valve. Genuine question: If it’s stuck, wouldn’t it act up from first start up? How does it affect it only after 5-10 minutes idling? Edit: a little research indicates if it’s stuck, it may not move when commanded. So maybe it’s stuck where it needs to be for cold idle, but not hot. I’ll check it out! mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Aug 15, 2023 |
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Aug 15, 2023 03:26
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Sarah Cenia posted:is there any point to continuing work on this 1993 Nissan pickup that's dumping white smoke from the exhaust whenever it's running? Check the plugs and plug holes after it’s sat after running. It’s probably leaking down one cylinder, or maybe sending a little through the intake. If you have the know how to do a backyard head gasket, and the engine hasn’t overheated, just go for it. You don’t have much to lose. I know shops love to deck every head when doing these jobs, but no OEM I’ve worked for, including Nissan, spec’d it for warranty jobs. Just make sure it’s perfectly clean and follow the torque procedures.
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Aug 26, 2023 13:38
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