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I'll be the guy who drops the bar even lower with a much worse follow up set of photos, so that people can know that it's ok to post here even if you're terrible like me, we can't all be Serious Gaylord or Bachtere or Laikathespacedog and his inspired creations, plus the rest of the commission crew NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Mar 12, 2015 |
# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 16:49 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 15:47 |
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Also Krushgroove for the op, places to get minis to paint in Australia: http://thecombatcompany.com/ http://www.gamesempire.com.au/index.php http://www.milsims.com.au/ Also places to get paint, the above plus https://www.frontlinehobbies.com.au/ Most frequent stockist of things you don't often think of, like laquers, plus paints we don't normally use like Tamiya
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 16:53 |
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krushgroove posted:...is there anything else? You're missing something pretty important from the OP, and you're gonna kick yourself when you see it
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# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 17:46 |
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I haven't cross posted in a while, but I'm pleased with how my Waraithseer turned outNTRabbit posted:OATH COMPLETE
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2015 07:13 |
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Does anyone remember the name of the cut price, bulk order style flock place that's just like woodland scenics only cheaper? I forgot to bookmark it the last time anyone linked it, and I'm in need of a certain type of grass
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# ¿ Apr 3, 2015 11:08 |
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Tenasscity posted:Do you guys have a storage solution for Dropper bottles? I have like 50 of them I've mixed paint and washes into, and I was wondering if any of you have found a good storage system that goes beyond a plastic bin with a lid. I have all of these things, which I just finished putting together this afternoon, basically thanks to this thread, the previous iteration of this thread, the boardgame thread and the 40k thread:
This is all semi-temporary - eventually I hope to have an actual work bench rather than pushing my keyboard out of the way, a bench big enough to fit the whole paint rack assembled in a better format leaving room to return my alcohol to the top of the Expedit, and those glass doors will house my glassware, with my minis eventually moved to KR cases and a dedicated display case in another room.
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# ¿ May 11, 2015 12:54 |
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Beerdeer posted:Does anyone have a guide to painting horses? I just bought into a SAGA Norman army. Offer them sugar cubes and stroke their heads
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# ¿ May 13, 2015 22:43 |
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Just so that I don't get this wrong, what's the procedure for sealing a mini with Pledge floor care multisurface finish plus a final coat of Testors Dullcote (or in my case Alclad Klear Kote Flat)? Is it just one coat of each with a day's drying time in between? Thick? Thin? And i clean the brush with mineral turpentine?
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2015 12:16 |
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Cool, the Alklad isn't an aerosol like the Testors so I'll be brushing it on as well. It's meant to be airbrushed, but for this go I'll be doing it by hand. What do I do if it starts to frost, aside from stop?
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2015 13:59 |
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Thanks, gonna give it all a go now then
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2015 14:28 |
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I've varnished, flocked and I think finalised the first of my painted Ogre units, since my varnish arrived late last week and I didn't want to flock first and goop up the grass Mantica Ogres are from the Mammoth Steppe, separating the rest of Mantica from the frozen wastelands in the north. I pictured it as being a little like the Eurasian Steppe crossed with the Dothraki Sea, so it's normal grass but grows tall and as far as the eye can see barring odd islands of trees, which is why the Ogres are so big, and why they dominate the steppe - it's too tall for humans and elves to fight in on foot, but just short enough for Ogres to fight on foot, while still being tall enough for them to hide in for hunt and ambush. The flock is Woodland Scenics Light Green Field Grass
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2015 15:38 |
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Cross postin' oathin'NTRabbit posted:OATH COMPLETE
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2015 12:11 |
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signalnoise posted:b.... battlefoam...
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# ¿ Aug 6, 2015 22:02 |
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Cyclomatic posted:I think it is more of a Romeo Filip thing. The only thing wrong with Battlefoam is the guy who owns it. Basically if you give him money, he will likely spend a portion of that money on lawyers to legally terrorize people and for paying out settlements to lawyers who successfully counter sue him for engaging in legal terrorism. Plus their biggest competitor, KR, is well in the other direction on the scale as they have sponsored the Oath thread with grand and other prizes for many seasons.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2015 16:39 |
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rantmo posted:There we go, that's what I'm talking about. Not cheap to ship it, but that's going to last a while. I use standard yellow-grey Milliput for my basius bases now, down here at least it's 1/3 the price of kneadatite/greenstuff
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2015 14:11 |
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signalnoise posted:Anyone have any experience with AK-Interactive paints? I have experience with their true metal paints, which are fabulous, but nothing else in the range
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2015 10:08 |
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signalnoise posted:Do they have any hosed up properties like not being able to paint on top of them? The True Metal paints are wax based, so they're little a bit messy and definitely need varnishing to stop you forever spreading sparkles everywhere, but I've not had any problem putting down VGC, VMC and Minitaire Ghost Tints over the top of them. They polish up nice too.
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# ¿ Aug 23, 2015 21:45 |
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signalnoise posted:Posting here cause we don't have a general gear thread I use a tube broadly similar to this, albeit mine uses a screw action to open/expand/contract rather than adjustable notches.
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2015 14:46 |
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I can't remember if I asked this here before or just in IRC, but does anyone know of any manufacturer that makes any shade of blue primer, and does it air brush ready, and in 60ml bottles or greater? I want to bulk prime a metric fuckton (not an Imperial fucktonne) of MDF and Mantic Battlezones in such a way that I don't need to do them in white or light grey, and then go over them again with a base in the colour I want, I just want it once and done in one afternoon, and then I can pick out details with a brush and wash at a later date, as moods/needs suit. Vallejo and AK Interactive make a couple shades of green, dark red, mustard and sand yellows, and some dark greys in 60ml/200ml bottles, but they don't have blue. Vallejo only has blue primer in their 17ml range, and that's an awful costly way to prime a lot of terrain. Army Painter has blue sprays, but they're $30 each here. The hardware store might have gloss blues, flat is only in black and white, but those are $8 a can.
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# ¿ Jan 17, 2016 10:42 |
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Spiderdrake posted:I have no idea if they pulled it out of their rear end or what, but meeplemart lists an Ultramarine vallejo surface primer in 60ml as 'coming soon'. That's not useful to you, but maybe Vallejo is coming out with such a product? Well if they do, the hobby kit place that stocks all their current 60/200ml bottles will stock it and I'll be able to get it then, thanks. Just seems weird that AK makes white, grey, black, desert sand, dark yellow, russian green, olive drab, dark red, rust, and tracks in 60ml, and Vallejo makes white, grey, black, schwarzgrau, dunkelgelb, rotbraun, german green, UK bronze green, US olive drab, russian green, and israeli sand in 60ml/200ml - all of which are basically aimed at historical hobby kit builders working in large scales with large volume paint demands - but neither can stoop to any shade of blue at all, which I would have thought naval builders would use. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Jan 17, 2016 |
# ¿ Jan 17, 2016 14:41 |
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Looks like stahlhelms hanging on hooks to me
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# ¿ Jan 24, 2016 08:53 |
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My own meagre offerings to the thread, since it's been a fair whileNTRabbit posted:OATH COMPLETE NTRabbit posted:Ogres are cool and good, and so are their pets I'm wearing a red shirt, I think maybe there's some reflection messing with the colour balance in the first one there
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2016 11:33 |
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signalnoise posted:Got a problem. I am painting up a kind of large mini (taking a break from the minotaur for a sec) and the paint I'm using (VMC luftwaffe uniform ww2) is like, really thin I guess? Paint keeps rubbing off it. Should I just varnish between paint sessions or go ahead and base the loving thing, that's the question. Or maybe both? He's too big for the cork I have. I have a habit of laying a mini down when I'm done with it for the time being and it's scraping the poo poo out of this guy. I've had this exact same problem with VMC German Camo Medium Brown, maybe it's a quirk of the formula with their panzer series paints? Not found a solution yet.
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2016 16:20 |
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Pierzak posted:VMC paints look pretty but rub off if you look at them wrong. Don't touch them until you varnish. No this is much worse than any other VMC paint I have. The others I can pick up and handle, albeit gently, without them taking damage. This German Camo Brown just comes off under the slightest touch, let alone when picked up.
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2016 16:47 |
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Cross post time What once was a regular Ogre warrior and a DeeZee miniatures Woolly Rhino is now an Ogre captain on chariot with magnetised left arm, shield and crossbow His melee weapon is cobbled together from a skewer, a one handed sword, and a one handed axe, and placed in a drilled out hand where the sword used to be, and the crossbow is converted by having the right hand cut off of it from a regular two handed crossbow, plus he's a foot Ogre I went at with a dremel so he could fit onto the back of his new woolly rhino buddy That's also the heraldry of my Ogre company on the saddle blanket, which he has because he is of course Inspiring
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2016 13:07 |
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jadebullet posted:So I learned something interesting the other day. Apparently, the reason why I paint better with beer in me is that I have an intention tremor. It's some thing where my hand shakes slightly when I reach for something. The tell that it is this type of tremor is that if you have alcohol in your system, it goes away. Oh so that's what I have! Good to know!
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# ¿ Apr 2, 2016 08:48 |
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I've had a varnishing problem, and I think it might be Bones related. I have a bottle of airbrush-ready Alclad II Lacquer Klear Kote Flat. To date, I've used it on Mantic restic, white metal, resin, and Bonesium - I paint them, then coat them in the recommended future floor polish that I give a day to dry, then use the flat. First thing I used it on was painted Reaper giants, and large portions of it stayed shiny and tacky to the touch. I figured I did it wrong, tried again with Mantic restic, and after a second coat to cover bits of Future I missed, it worked perfectly. Same again on metal, more restic, and resin. Tried it on a Reaper bones burrowing horror, and it dried perfectly flat and not sticky, I even got photos, then put it on my display shelf. Three weeks later, I went to put something else next to it on the shelf, and when I touched it to move it it was sticky as gently caress - pulled it out, and it's sticky and shiny all over. The Giants are still sticky and shiny. Everything else else is still as perfect as the day I finished them. My question: does Bonesium have an issue with certain lacquers? Has anyone else experienced this? I'm now hesitant to paint any more bones, because without the varnish the paint always rubs right off, no matter how well I wash and prime them. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 10:20 on Apr 4, 2016 |
# ¿ Apr 4, 2016 10:17 |
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darnon posted:The lacquer rather than acrylic is probably your issue. Bonesium can be picky about solvents which is why spray primers can be hit or miss. There's no solvents involved though - I've seen all the talk about primers, which is why I've been brushing on Vallejo surface primer, but the paint still doesn't hold onto it as well as any other material, I think only metal points have been worse; the brushed on lacquer reacting badly to the bonesium underneath the paint is a new thing for me.
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# ¿ Apr 4, 2016 13:32 |
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So, let's say I've gone to clean out my airbrush, and discovered that somebody has knocked over my bottle of airbrush cleaner without telling me - what common cleaning or other fluids around the house could I use as a substitute until more can arrive via mail order?
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# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 04:30 |
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Cheers; lifesaver indolent bastard, I set aside today specifically because it's the only rain free day predicted for a while, and I was about to toss it all in and play Overwatch
NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Jul 8, 2016 |
# ¿ Jul 8, 2016 04:53 |
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I painted a squidNTRabbit posted:OATH COMPLETE
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2016 16:30 |
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goodness posted:Where did you get the model? Reaper Bones Kraken http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/kraken/latest/77291 $25 Yankeedollars, and it's pretty drat big
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2016 18:46 |
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The Impaler posted:How would you do this? Let it dry for a few hours, then push it around with something into a new shape? Use the Vallejo gel water effects, not the liquid one, and spread it in the shape you want around something the right shape, ie I was able to find a test tube that more or less matched a 25mm round. Shame the minis don't fit on the bases they're meant to be on, but you can see the general idea. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Aug 2, 2016 |
# ¿ Aug 2, 2016 13:27 |
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GreenMarine posted:What is the best way to seal a realm of battle board? I figure it has to be fairly robust to handle minis and terrain being placed on it a bunch, but I don't want it shiny. Matte sealers seem a little thin? Pledge FloorCare Multisurface Finish (the current name of much recommended Pledge Future Shine), and then a matte over the top would seem like the best way
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2016 06:06 |
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mango sentinel posted:Does anyone do lady heads for IG soldiers? Victoria Miniatures NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Sep 18, 2016 |
# ¿ Sep 18, 2016 19:23 |
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Ilor posted:Future Floor Wax. It cuts the surface tension and helps the wash pool/dry correctly (i.e. without tide lines). The current name they sell it under is Pledge Floor Care Multi Surface Finish
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 21:08 |
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Cat Face Joe posted:Thank you for clarifying this. I stood there staring at this bottle forever trying to decide if I should take the risk. Lost no more! I have the 2013 label bottle and it is definitely gloss sealer. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Nov 14, 2016 |
# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 21:53 |
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You have articulated 10mm vehicles with moving parts, shading, gradients, and edge highlighting, i really don't think that's fair on the rest of us
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2016 12:45 |
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Creature Caster didn't literally steal from people like Mierce or Palladium, so I wouldn't shunt them too far down the list.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2017 10:11 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 15:47 |
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Irate Tree posted:How many years now, dude? That grudge must be getting pretty drat heavy by now. You can't be talking about Palladium, because they've made good on nothing, and they have no customer service at all, so I'll remind you that Mierce is a phoenix company that was created using the assets of Maelstrom the owner sold to himself, which was basically continuing to take money for orders it knew it would never fulfill, ie trading while insolvent. I never bought from them, but plenty of people ended up getting stiffed, and that sort of business practise should never be forgiven.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2017 10:31 |