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MasterSlowPoke posted:Simple green won't melt plastic at any concentration. It barely eats paint. Yeah, if all you have is Simple Green, I'd heat it up too. That will help a lot.
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Mar 22, 2015 14:32
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Anyone have tips for someone looking to cast their own stuff? The company I work for does polyurethane casting, so I know a bit about [how hard] mold design [is], but I don't know anything about using RTV or doing resin casting. Can anyone point me in the right direction on products available in the US?
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Mar 28, 2015 16:32
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Yeah, my main motivation is recasting shields for my orcs, so it'll be open casting all the way. There's no way I could ever scrape up 100+ of the old 90's shields for my dudes.
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Mar 28, 2015 19:00
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Haven't painted anything this year, so I broke out the fighter model from the AD&D starter box. He is now ready for ADVENTURE.  Leopard print was easier than I'd imagined. It looks a little Flintstones, but I don't have a problem with that.
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Apr 1, 2015 02:55
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Does goblin green still have a direct equivalent out there? I want to change my base rims to green, and I have an old pot of goblin green around, but I don't want to break it out unless I can be consistent with it.
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May 29, 2015 01:31
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Pierzak posted:Wash, highlight, done. If you want eyes a single half-transparent black dot is enough. The golden rule is the smaller the model, the more pronounced the shading should be. Yeah, I bet if you spent three dollars or so on a micropen and went nuts on those models it would look great. Excellent investment, I underestimated it completely.
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Jun 13, 2015 03:07
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dmnz posted:Crappy phone pics of my wip pirate orcs. I like the models but one thing you really have to watch out for with those orc sculpts is to make sure they're standing up as straight as you can get them. You've got a bunch of dudes basically staring at the ground. They'll look a lot better if they're looking up at the viewer instead of like they are about to start a somersault... it took me a long time to realize what was wrong when I was doing mine.
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Jun 30, 2015 17:15
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Arven posted:I'm finally getting around to painting some Mordians I snagged off ebay an age ago. I'm not great at painting, but I'd like to someday play with these things and have them not look like poo poo. I agree, much too dark. Mordians wear basically parade uniforms, so you need to step it up everywhere on the brightness - the coat, the piping, and the gold. Right now he looks uncool, like a Crimson Fist. EDIT: I'd also consider switching the lasgun casing to something other than black. Maybe red? Black casing + silver trim is hard to do without looking low-effort.
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Jul 25, 2015 17:44
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Genghis Cohen posted:I have been assembling some models I got in Mierce Miniatures' Darklands kickstarter, their Fomoraic faction, which is basically Warhammer's Chaos Warriors but less over-the-top. Maybe going to use the models for frostgrave or similar type of game, or wait till the official rules come out (who am I kidding, I'll never find anyone else who plays). Those minotaurs are super cool. I always liked beastmen but I can't get the hang of painting good fur.
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Sep 24, 2015 23:10
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Not a viking posted:Any good tutorials on how to paint pale skin? I just paint it pale green. Pale green solves a lot of unexpected problems
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Sep 27, 2015 00:04
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Venom Soag posted:
That model is sick
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Nov 17, 2015 00:15
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Boon posted:It's been a while since I've posted in here, but I'm trying a new scheme on my Warp Spiders and I'd appreciate any feedback. I think they need some harder blacklining. I like all the colors, though - you just need more dark space to set them off.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:17
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PierreTheMime posted:With this talk of improving photos, I redid some of my current projects using a slightly better setup (if you can call two pieces of paper better than a whiteboard): I don't think I've ever seen genestealer cultists done like that. They look really cool.
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Apr 9, 2016 01:36
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Anybody have any sage advice for painting MDF terrain? I don't have an airbrush. I was goofing around with a sprue yesterday and it looks like my usual method is not going to scale up for poo poo. I'm reading that it's good to use a lot of gloss varnish to seal... Should I go dark colors or stay really light? Muted, or solid? I want it to go together thematically, but I'm worried if I do the buildings in the same kind of cartoony manner I did the minis they'll just get lost in the much bigger terrain. 
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May 8, 2017 23:48
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I found this guy at the Toledo Game Room in the 50 cent bucket. Thought he looked rad, so I took some time and painted him up tonight. Anyone know what he is?
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Dec 23, 2019 05:13
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NeurosisHead posted:First miniature of 2020 this afternoon, and my first time actually being happy with dark skin tones. I think that this year I'd like to get better at using technical effects, like weathering, blood, etc. Not bad though, for 3 hours on a lazy Wednesday. What did you print this out of and how much prep did it take? I can't even tell it was printed. I'm used to printed stuff out in my area being gritty and that looks real smooth. Do you have to vapor polish or something?
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Jan 4, 2020 16:58
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Endman posted:This thread needs more Look at this thing, it's a freakin emerald
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Jan 11, 2020 00:41
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Battletech 
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New models! One is Kusanagi from Infinity, which I just got the courage to paint by knowing a better model will some day be released, and the second is another model out of the 50 cent bin at the Toledo Game Room.    Kusanagi looks pretty good but I'm really happy with the civilian girl - feel like I am seeing actual improvement in my technique compared to just a year ago.
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Jan 23, 2020 02:10
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Iceclaw posted:I can't manage not to make my miniatures look drab as hell, even with some highlight and what's not. What am I doing wrong? I think it's a contrast problem. Your colors are pretty solid, but they don't feel like they have a real beginning or an end. It's most noticeable on the metal stuff, which is the hardest to handle:  Like, the gold, the silver and the leather kind of run together in a way you can't solve by highlighting. If you got some darkness between the different elements of the model it would make the transitions clearer and make the model a lot more readable. Here's a model I did earlier this year to explain:  Dividing up areas like that goes a long, long way to making a model pop. I did something similar at the elbows and the knees since they'd otherwise look like hot dogs. But because I could divide the white area up, it looks good, even though I didn't do poo poo to highlight - all I did was prime white and slap one thin coat down before picking up any other color.
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Feb 1, 2020 20:48
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Zaphod42 posted:Pro move is to magnetize your bases and glue a metal sheet to a plastic tackle box. Cheap, effective. My carrying case for years has been a cardboard box with three layers: one inch of polyurethane foam, one piece of sheet metal, and then a one inch foam cutout to outline the sheet metal. Magnetize your bases and they're good to go. The whole setup was basically free and it's worked well.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:07
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BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:HELL YEAH BROTHER I like highlighting bone with real pale green. I find bone is similar to fooling with red in that if you just add white to the mixture you wind up moving into the wrong color.
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Mar 12, 2020 00:12
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grassy gnoll posted:You're probably going to have some adhesion problems if you're not priming, but you can give it a go anyway. Acrylic paint is acrylic paint. Sand it first then clean with rubbing alcohol (if you can find any!) Gotta increase the surface energy to get a good bond.
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Mar 13, 2020 22:41
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SiKboy posted:Its the aerosol propellant in the can, not the primer. Polystyrene does not react well to most propellant (I'm told the super dense insulation stuff is less of an issue, but expanded polystyrene definately doesnt like it). IIRC one of the craft terrain guys I follow on youtube (off the top of my head I couldn't tell you which one) swears you can get it to work with the right brand of spray paint and keeping the can a good distance away from the surface, but I wouldnt risk it myself on anything I gave a poo poo about. Sealing it with PVA glue or wall filler (Spackle I think is the american term?) may work or it may not. Yeah, the paint is full of volatile solvents. You'll have to spray far away so they evaporate before making contact. Probably a waste of your 20 dollar GW poo poo but if you have regular rustoleum or krylon go for it Under 15 fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 6, 2020 |
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Apr 6, 2020 19:08
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Torquemada posted:Scrubbed, but clarification needed: fresh superglue means a freshly opened tube, or something manufactured yesterday? I bought a bunch of tiny tubes a few months back, they’re unopened. Superglue cures with moisture and heat, so the clock starts ticking once opened. You'll get more mileage if you store them in the fridge between uses.
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May 16, 2020 16:02
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https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1...bKzMxw/viewform Cross-posting from the Infinity thread. We had an informal painting contest in our local Infinity group to commemorate the quarantine and it's time to judge. Click the link and rate some paintjobs! When we're back together in person we're all going out to dinner. Winner gets their bill paid and loser covers gratuity for the group.
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Jul 9, 2020 04:05
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tangy yet delightful posted:Says the file doesn't exist? Whoa there, didn't notice the url got shortened. https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScd6r5JzaJ_rzWVeaBsaJSQxfOOH-u4eranwMjkvJYhbKzMxw/viewform Try that one out. Thanks!
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Jul 9, 2020 22:48
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Eej posted:More airbrush questions while I look into what it would take to set it up. My workspace is the other half of my corner desk next to a window which is fine but that window is also where a cat tree is positioned. I've got two cats in my little apartment and I don't feel comfortable spraying aerosolized acrylics everywhere because I can wear a mask but they can't and I don't know how good air brush hoods are at catching stray paint and the whole situation just makes me feel like it's not worth any risk to my cats long term health over making some plastic look nicer. There's always outdoor airbrushing which comes with having to deal with humidity, temperature, rain, etc. but it's probably ok for at least priming, base coating and highlighting? Throw them in the bathroom for twenty minutes while you spray? I feel like people overstate the dangers of airbrushing... no, it's not good for you to breathe in aerosolized paint, but think about it in comparison to smoking a cigarette.
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Aug 1, 2020 00:46
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Nebalebadingdong posted:ya'll ready to paint some goddamn doors? Quoting this from downtown because idgaf. I put the tutorial to use on a model. Chickened out from going all the way, but here's the result:     I really like how the hands came out on this model - usually it's something I gently caress up really bad, but here I think I nailed it. Maybe because the sculptor put some effort into it as well?
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Sep 2, 2020 04:12
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    Finished my secret santa contribution to a guy who wanted an O-12 HVT. I like the way it came out compared to the model on the box, which I think is kinda ehh I haven't used metallics paints in forever and had a terrible time with them here. What's the best way to thin them out? I have reaper paints nowadays, so I know they are high enough quality to pull it off.
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Nov 25, 2020 01:47
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Furism posted:
I think he meant for minis. Acetone is anywhere from not-ideal to Bad Plan depending on what kind of rubber they picked for the seals. Alcohol is the way
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Dec 5, 2020 04:13
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Ohthehugemanatee posted:I know some of you lunatics must paint tiny space ships. Is Dropfleet really too big? Most of the ships are like 2-4 inches long and even the giganto ones aren't any bigger than a Raider or a Falcon or w/e in 40k. It's about the same scale as BFG.
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Dec 30, 2020 00:04
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Ohthehugemanatee posted:I bet that actually looks great in person. Edge highlighting that looks amazing to a camera three inches away is often too subtle for a dude that needs to stand out on a tabletop. Yeah, I had massively upgraded my painting setup last year and the first thing I did with it was paint a bunch of subtle highlights that aren't visible on the table
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Jan 2, 2021 15:35
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Dropping in here, I just finished up a major project for an upcoming tournament:      I'm really happy with how these came out, I went all out on this army and learned a lot in the process
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Jan 16, 2022 04:06
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Spanish Manlove posted:Since it's about $5 at the supermarket for the stuff I highly recommend this. After a while it just starts to suck, even if you're meticulous and keep the tips clean. CA glue gets worse and worse the more moisture gets at it, so just buy the smallest one you can find and throw it out every 90 days
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May 23, 2022 03:46
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Priming will be plenty fine to help spot areas you somehow missed. If you do miss something, there's no time better than right then and there to fix it, even if you are painting the model. Don't leave mold lines or flash on a model when you see them (because you will never un-see them after that)
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Jun 11, 2022 03:16
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Cthulu Carl posted:In the grim darkness of the far future, THERE IS ONLY MARGARITAVILLE lookin for my lost shaker of souls
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Jul 26, 2022 02:37
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Dropping some oath photos here, these are the last models for my NCA Infinity army:   I like this guy because I can imagine him flying through the air, blasting away, like it was some sort of PC Engine horizontal shmup
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Aug 14, 2022 05:35
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Beffer posted:The global supply chain crisis is finally explained The goons, they keep getting stuck in canals
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Aug 22, 2022 22:31
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:How do you Marine gents get your edge highlighting so expertly precise? I'm hoping to improve my Death Guard painting but I'm not sure how to get that crisp line work down. make the marine bigger
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Mar 9, 2023 22:35
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| # ¿ May 13, 2024 07:07 |
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  I finally got a leather look that I like, just need to do something interesting with the base. For the guy further up in the page, I use all reaper paints. They aren't the best paints in the universe, but they are cheap and available and easy to use. If you invest in a good black and a good white and then all the rest Reaper I don't think you'd be disappointed.
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Mar 14, 2023 23:12
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