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Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Twerk from Home posted:

They're legitimately great computers and no budget was specified, if somebody asks for the best why not go for the guys who are known not just for a good build / design but also decades of outstanding customer service?

Why buy Origin or Maingear when you could just put it together yourself?

Edit: this came off snarkier than I meant, but if budget is important and you want something quiet you're building it yourself.

I’ve been recommending MainGear to people because their support staff have been great for a couple friends of mine when something was wrong. Very thorough, patient, and get problems fixed with a minimum fuss.

Kibner fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Oct 12, 2023

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Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Kin posted:

USB DAC eh? Never came across that before.

That might actually solve a tech hurdle that's preventing me from replacing one of my monitors.

My work laptop doesn't have a functioning audio out port (it's an XPS 13) , so rather than use the fairly shite laptop speakers, I've got a basic set of speakers hooked up to a Dell U2711 monitor that the laptop is connected to.

The monitor is oooold and has a bit of an orange tint from the sun or screen burn or whatever, but without a solution to the sound thing for the laptop I felt a bit stuck.

Unless you have a need for something more than stereo or need something to drive high impedance headphones, the $10 usb-c audio adapter from Apple works on dang near everything and is more than good enough.

If you want surround sound, things get a bit more difficult and a lot more expensive.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Arc Hammer posted:

I have a new tower case on order, a Lancool 216 that should arrive in the next few weeks. I also found a good deal on a 1000w PSU that will be more than enough for my end-of-year new GPU purchase. The main reason I'm getting a new case is for better airflow since my current tower runs pretty hot and only has two case fans. The Lancool can mount more fans on the top of the case so today I'm asking what what would be a good option for additional case fans, preferably cheaper ones. I'm not a big fan of RGB lights so if I can find a more power efficient fan that doesn't have them and it's cheaper the better.

Arctic P-12 for 120mm fans are the best value.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
A 5-year warranty on a PSU doesn't say "quality" to me.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
That PSU is 12 years old and is likely on the very short list of needing to be replaced ASAP.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Sir John Feelgood posted:

Really? Well, that's how little I know about this stuff. I thought it'd be fine. Thanks for letting me know.

In general, look at the warranty on different parts. Once you start approaching that warranty limit, it can be a good idea to start thinking about a replacement in case it fails sooner than later. Or, at the very least, start looking for signs of it breaking down. SMART errors on storage drives, etc.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
@Comic there is also the option of using a simple audio interface like the $90 Behringer UMC202HD. It opens up your inputs and gives you much better control over them. It should also let you drop down to a cheaper motherboard and actually save money while getting a better experience.

Kibner fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Nov 21, 2023

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

SpaceDrake posted:

Firstly, pick up some DDR5 with timings that won't make you hate life and yourself, for the same price: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/x4VmP6/gskill-ripjaws-s5-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-f5-6000j3040f16gx2-rs5k If you're doing rendering, I also wonder if you might not be served by 64GB, but that is up to you and you know your workload.

Beyond that, it seems mostly correct; 13/14900 vs 7950 comes down to whether a specific part might be better optimized for the specific task you're doing, which probably requires a bit more homework on your part. (EDIT: Also the X3D parts are specifically gaming-focused and the 7950X3D has some specifically odd problems in game situations relating to how it has to use its expanded cache, so I'd just stick with the 7950X here for your use case.) I'd offer standard warnings about power supply longevity and spinning rust shards HDD lifetimes, but you both seem to have some idea what you're doing and I'm guessing the parts are still under warranty, and the various storage drives are important for work and/or archival purposes.

Running a top-end CPU 24/7 is definitely "it's time to consider liquid" territory. Other folks with more expertise will have to chime in on that, but you'll want a part with at least a two-fan, 240mm radiator. I know the ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II is reasonably well-regarded in this space, if you can fit a 360mm radiator (which the Define 7 should have no issue with).

Of note, a 280mm rad is usually within a hair'd breadth of effectiveness as a 360mm (in noise-normalized tests). 2x140mm fans vs 3x120mm.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
I haven't really experienced many driver issues with my 7900XTX, tbh. I also tend to only update the drivers when the Adrenaline software tells me there is an update, so I've missed out on the short-lived problematic releases.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Zero VGS posted:

Yeah I disabled the second CCD in BIOS when goons brought it up for Starfield though honestly it's no discernable difference in gaming (maybe less hitching but not higher FPS) and it seems to want to burn 80 watts when it's doing anything, whether it's 1 CCD or both, or any combination with ECO mode.

Weird. My 7950x3d rarely goes above even 70W when gaming and sits at 15-25W when on the desktop and goes up to 35-40 when navigating this site. This is with my memory tuned to 6000mhz and the fabric or whatever clocked to the max of 2000mhz.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Saros posted:

Ok thanks a lot, I'm going off googling and people were suggesting various ways to change the timing but without a lot of consistency in how to determine what to actually set it to.

There is no consistency because each individual RAM stick and memory controller (on the AMD CPU) is different. It is an extremely tedious trial and error process and you will always be left wondering if an application or system crash was due to the RAM overclock.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Zero VGS posted:

I'm fine with screwing with it, can't hurt to try. However, when I go to set the CAS latency and other timings in the Bios, it goes up to 21 CLK (the ram is supposed to be 22-22-22) and there's also what appears to be options for Hexadecimal like "1Fh" etc.

I found one other person with the same exact RAM who posted a CPU-Z of theirs running, so that gives me a hint. Again, this screenshot below is someone else, not me:



fyi, memory tuning is a very tedious process and can take an inordinate amount of time to get stable enough. here is a good guide for ddr4: https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4%20OC%20Guide.md

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Zero VGS posted:

The DRAM Calculator thing wasn't too clear about stuff (the dropdown menu didn't have Zen 3, nor did it have Samsung A-die RAM), but I also found a freeware app called "Thiraphoon Burner" which allowed me to download a database of timings for different RAM sticks and look mine up:



The link is here if it helps anywhere else. I couldn't find these timing on any search engine but this program knew them.

So I should have been setting the clock to 1600, not 3200? That explains a bit.

No, you should be setting the clock to 3200. The motherboard interprets that automatically as 1600. If you open Task Manager in Windows and go over to the Memory tab, there will be a section called Speed that shows the speed your memory is running at. It should be reading 3200 for memory set to 3200. The screenshot below is showing 6000 since I am using ddr5 6000 speed memory, for example.




Again, the memory controller on your CPU may not be able to handle 3200 so you might need to lower the frequency, loosen the timings, and/or increase voltage to the memory. I linked it earlier, but you should really read this guide to understand more about what is going on: https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4%20OC%20Guide.md

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Branch Nvidian posted:

In the BIOS/UEFI they likely need to set it to 1600 though. For example in my BIOS my 3600 MHz RAM has to have the FCLK Frequency set to 1800 MHz.


Yet in task manager it reads as 3600 MHz.


I'm assuming Zero VGS is asking about what they're supposed to set it as in their BIOS, and if they are trying to set it at 3200 MHz there, then the system is likely trying to run it at 6400 MHz, which lmao ain't gonna happen on their kit.

In mine, I have to set it to 3200 in the bios if i want effective 3200 speed. I guess it is just a difference in bios.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Sanitary Naptime posted:

I’m currently sat with a 2700x on a b450 elite v2 board which can’t handle anything better than 3200 mhz ddr4 (and even then it was a loving struggle getting it to run at that speed).

I’m probably a ways off being able to afford any decent proper upgrade that’ll replace the motherboard, ram and cpu - probably at least another year - is there any appreciable jump in performance I’d really get from upgrading the 2700x on that motherboard or should I just wait off until I’m in a position to replace the motherboard and have a crisis over AMD vs Intel?

Check the BIOS versions, but that motherboard should be capable of running the 5000 series chips, which would be massive upgrades. Particularly if you can find a 5800x3d or 5600x3d. Enough of a performance jump that you should be able to put off upgrading the motherboard and RAM for another 2-3 years.

e: with that said, RAM is pretty darn cheap right now, so if you don't have but want to upgrade to 32 GB of RAM, now is as good a time as any!

Kibner fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Nov 26, 2023

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
If you only care about transcoding, even the A350 GPU from Intel is good enough for that. It can even do AV1 encoding, which you would need a 4000 series Nvidia or 7000 series AMD GPU to do.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
You will likely want an LSI HBA that goes into a pcie slot and lets you connect 8+ sata drives to it, tbh.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Thank you for the input!
I think I'm going to max it out at 64 and snag an Arc A750. The cheapest A770 I could find and it's an AsRock for $330. Is it worth an extra $130 to get 16GB?

If you want to use the card in gaming for a long time and continue to use higher quality textures, yes.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

OneSizeFitsAll posted:

Thanks. Yeah, I'm inclined to agree. The fan lights should be nice enough on their own, and she'd prefer the convenience of the button I think. Maybe I'll check with her, though avoiding even more fiddling is certainly appealing to me.

It can always be a future project for her. Especially if she ends up getting some super fancy SL INF fans from Lian Li.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Binary Badger posted:

Is there any new hotness in thermal compounds?

I've got some Arctic Silver 5 and Gelid Extreme lying around, but I bet it's not a great idea to use several-year old batches of thermal paste, especially when the fans on one of the old laptops I originally treated with said tubes 'o gel seem to be running their fans pretty loudly lately.

I also have some Liquid Metal but I seem to remember some caveats to using it that didn't make it suitable in some laptops.

Liquid Metal is conductive. If you can't guarantee it won't spill-over, don't risk using it.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
You almost never need to go above 60 or 70% fan speed. If you do, something else in your build has gone terribly wrong.

E: spikes in temp that go back down quickly are perfectly fine and normal. It is sustained temps that need to be addressed.

Also, to prevent big jumps in speed because of those temp spikes, there is something called hysterias that you want to look into.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Centrist Committee posted:

More of a build vs. buy question. I haven’t needed to worry about hardware for years. But now I’d like to play around LLMs and possibly diffusion models locally. I can kind of get smaller versions of the latter to run but it’s very slow on my intel era Mac.

My question is, is it cheaper to build something or look for a newer used Mac? I take it RAM is important but I’ve completely lost the plot on GPUs these days.

I take it renting server time is not something you want to do with your LLM play time? Because that would be the much cheaper play, especially since these models love VRAM and the cards that are fast enough with enough VRAM tend to be very expensive such that renting time on someone else's machine might make more sense for casual use.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
The reason to buy a pre built is for the assembly and support. If the support sucks, don’t buy it. Yes, you will pay more.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Bloopsy posted:

It’s best to just ignore the marketing altogether, it’s almost always BS. Check out YouTube for channels like Gamers Nexus which has fairly easy to digest “Best of” hardware videos that are good primers for getting acclimated to current hardware.

They want to do LLM stuff, though, which isn’t really covered much by GN. LLM generally wants at least 16GB cards and those are expensive (Nvidia) or don’t support the more popular GPGPU languages like CUDA (AMD).

For gaming and most other content creation stuff, GN is great! Just not for LLM/AI stuff.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
Look if a 280 will fit. They are 99% as effective as 360s, in most scenarios.

e: with that said, a 7800x3D doesn't need an AIO. A simple dual-tower air cooler will be more than enough to have it running cool and quiet.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Mr.Fuzzywig posted:

You are entirely correct and I'm glad I read the mobo manual before going to the store! I'll pick up some of the 6000 30 timing stuff I see recommended here. Is 64 gb still overkill for regular ol gaming?, no streaming or editing or professional work.

Yes. The only reason 32 GB is recommended over 16 GB is so that you can have a browser and discord up at the same time without issue. By the time 32 GB isn't enough, you will have likely replaced the entire computer, tbh.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Salt Fish posted:

My current PC weighs 72 pounds. :colbert:

I recently retrofitted my FT02 into a NAS. It currently has "only" 5 hdd's in it (but with room to fit 8 more) and I have no idea how much it weighs, but it has to be well over 50 and I dread how heavy it would be when fully kitted out.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
Stick a small piece of paper close to the fan and see what direction it moves. The paper should be moving towards the exhaust fan, if you have it setup correctly.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Bloopsy posted:

Speaking of cases I’m looking to upgrade from a Define 7 Compact to a 011D Evo for thermals/noise. Currently have a 7800x3d with a Fractal Celsius 240mm aio. What is the consensus for a 280mm vs 360mm aio? I’ve seen and been told elsewhere that there is not much of a difference at all between a 240mm and 280mm but a big difference from 280mm to 360mm. I’ve also seen mentioned on SA that there isn’t much of a difference from 280mm to 360mm. So which is it? I’m not concerned about cost.

For the good aio’s, there is a sizable difference between 240 and 280 but a negligible difference between 280 and 360. 280 uses 140mm fans while 240 and 360 use 120mm fans. So, the 280 has an effective radiator size that is closer to the 360 than the 240. And since the fans are larger, they should be capable of higher static pressure at lower noise levels which help it keep up with the 360s in noise normalized thermals.

I think the people that may have told you different could have been talking about the cooling potential if the fans and pump were screaming away at 100% instead of at a volume that is tolerable.

With that said, the 7800x3d uses comparably little power and does not need an aio of any sort. Any reputable dual tower air cooler would be overkill.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
Ahh, you are putting it in an O11 case. For that situation, an AIO might make sense because that line of cases is not good at air cooling. Get an Arctic II Freezer 280 and run it at low speeds and it will be silent and be wonderful. They come in all-black and rgb versions.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

CapnAndy posted:

Assuming I have infinite money but no desire to ever overclock, would CL30 be worth it in that case?

The lower the better. Every 1 CL lower is similar in latency (but not bandwidth) to an extra 200mhz speed on the memory, iirc.

E: this is for ddr4, but the same principle should apply:

quote:

While lower timings may be better, this also depends on the RAM's frequency. For example, DDR4-3000 CL15 and DDR4-3200 CL16 have the same latency, despite DDR4-3000 running at a lower absolute CL. This is because the higher frequency offsets the increase in CL.

To calculate the actual time in nanoseconds (ns) of a given timing: 2000 * timing / ddr_freq.

For example, CL15 at DDR4-3000 is 2000 * 15 / 3000 = 10 ns.

Similarly, CL16 at DDR4-3200 is 2000 * 16 / 3200 = 10 ns.

https://github.com/integralfx/MemTestHelper/blob/oc-guide/DDR4%20OC%20Guide.md#benchmarks

Kibner fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Dec 21, 2023

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Indiana_Krom posted:

Just a heads up to anyone who may have purchased one, cablemod is going to do a recall of their 16 pin angled power adapters: https://cablemod.com/adapterrecall/

I already removed mine from my system, no signs of problems with it, but took it out anyway just to be safe.

Really wish Nvidia would just put the power connector in a different spot that didn't require twisting and bending the cable so much to make it fit! Perhaps if they had located the plug in a more optimal location/orientation they would have had fewer GPUs catch on fire because of it...

But that would make it easier for data centers to use consumer gpu’s instead of the ones targeted for them.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
I broke the latch on my x570 years ago. It's not a necessary thing. I don't think most motherboards even have them.

It was a pita to reach, anyway.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy
For gaming purposes, what speed ram is recommended for a 13700k? Trying to help a friend put together a couple different builds based on the 13700k and the 7800x3d. I know the sweet spot for the x3D is 6000/30 but not sure about the 13700.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

McGrady posted:

I'm looking for a mini computer for my bedroom. I have a NUC that's probably 10+ years old at this point and it's put of storage and can barely handle 1080p YouTube anymore.

What are the good mini computers now adays?aways?

Price point is going to be 500-700

Depending on what you want to do, either a Mac Mini (M1/2/3, doesn't matter) or a Beelink.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

VostokProgram posted:

what exactly do good memory testers do? naively I would just expect to write a pattern to every byte and check that it reads back correctly but I'm sure there's more going on

My assumptions: they also have to repeat operations to the same byte at various intervals to make sure the memory is able to overwrite itself correctly. They also need to let memory sit on a value for a while and check on it every now and then to make sure it is still holding the correct value.

e: those are my guesses based off what the various memory timings do and memory being volatile storage

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Kragger99 posted:

Is it pretty safe these days to go with water cooling for the CPU? I've only ever used air (Noctua D15), and it seems to work fine, but wondering if there's any benefit apart from just cooler temps. This would be in an ATX case with 2 x fans intake/1 out (have room on top of case for water cooler fans).

A chance of getting the same or cooler temps with less noise. More efficient use of space in smaller cases. More surface for RGB.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Racing Stripe posted:

My approximately three-year-old rig (Intel 12600K, MSI Mag Tomahawk Z690 DDR4) is having ethernet problems again. Soon after I built it, I was having constant dropped internet when gaming using ethernet. Using wifi fixed the problem, but hell no am I gaming over wifi. IIRC a simple bios update fixed it, but there might have also been some other sort of mobo firmware change that I had to do. Everything was fine after that until recently, and now it has started happening again. Not as regularly, and not only when gaming, but it's a similar thing where my connection just blinks in and out, or disappears for a few minutes before reappearing.

It looks like there are some newer (september '23) network drivers for this thing that I'm going to try. Anything else I should try first or instead? Perhaps use this as an excuse to go to DDR5? Anyone got a recommendation for a rock-solid LGA 1700 DDR5 mobo?

It uses the Intel I225V 2.5Gbps LAN controller. That is probably the issue. That thing has a long and storied history of being completely unreliable. Intel never can seem to fully fix it. If you have a PCIe slot available, get a NIC to put in it and that should solve your issues and is much cheaper than a new motherboard.

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

Racing Stripe posted:

Shiiit, back when I was parts shopping I picked up the idea (somewhere) that the Intel LAN controller was better than the alternatives, and I picked this board partly because it had one. Now I know to steer clear.

The Intel 1G LAN controllers are usually better than the alternatives. Their 2.5G ones always seem to have problems, though.

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Kibner
Oct 21, 2008

Acguy Supremacy

wash bucket posted:

While that's a bad prebuilt I don't think you're stupid for wanting one. It's really, really strange that there aren't good options here. Dell can build perfectly sufficient PCs for every other use case but somehow they can't make a decent gaming PC and apparently neither can anyone else. It don't add up but that's the situation.

Maybe between game consoles for the masses and custom built PCs for enthusiasts there just isn't enough oxygen left in the room for prebuilt gaming PCs?

https://maingear.com/ make good pre-builts and also have great support but you will be paying a premium.

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