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I just bought a 2012 Impreza Sport Premium. While I am happy with the deal I got, I'm feeling ambivalent about going for the extended warranty. I suppose I can justify that by getting as many free wiper blade replacements as possible over the next 100k miles. That being said, this is my first 5 speed. I can get around fine, but can anyone offer advice on how to shift like less of a jackass?
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Jul 25, 2012 11:38
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Thanks for the encouragement. Is there a recommended cross bar set for the roof rails?
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Jul 26, 2012 11:37
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Is there a recommended place to buy OEM parts and/or accessories?
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Jul 30, 2012 20:37
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Slow is Fast posted:http://www.subarugenuineparts.com/ is west coast Hmm, the Fred Beans dealerships are about an hour from me. I'll check these out, thanks.
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Jul 30, 2012 21:26
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Do people mount off road lights to their grille, or does it just appear that way? If so, is there some kind of bracket adapter involved?
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Aug 6, 2012 21:55
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Slow is Fast posted:They mount them to the radiator support and pop the bracket out through the grill. Interesting. Do you have it wired through your high beams, or a separate switch?
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Aug 6, 2012 23:06
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Totally TWISTED posted:Subaru Parts Warehouse is having a sale. I picked up a nearly identical collapsible cargo box thing at Harbor Freight for $10.
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Aug 24, 2012 22:37
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The guy at the window tint shop told me that underneath the matte covering around the door window frame is shiny paint the same color as the body. I'm not about to start peeling things off my car to find out, but is what he says true?
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Aug 27, 2012 23:00
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Terrible Robot posted:Yes. Any reason for this besides styling? Is there a correct term for it? I'm trying to find examples of people who have done it, but can't seem to find any.
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Aug 28, 2012 00:04
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Terrible Robot posted:I'm a little confused, are you talking about the matte covering or the paint itself? The former is purely for styling, I guess some people get pissy about seeing metal/paint inside their cars. Lots of cars cover it up with trim or lovely rear end vinyl that peels away after a few years anyway (I'm lookin at you, Toyota). As for why the paint is there at all, they paint the entire door the body color at the factory. Sometimes they dip the whole car in the primer/paint, with doors, hood, and trunk already attached. I mean the matte covering on the outside.  Also there's a pretty active Archer thread in TVIV, someone there made the avatar.
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Aug 28, 2012 00:18
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Sockington posted:From SubaruGenuine regarding the Extra-S: How do you damage gear oil?
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Oct 9, 2012 18:16
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MMD3 posted:GD it... probably should've asked here before-hand. but I trust the mechanic and have been going there for a while so I'm sure that was the going rate. They said they recommend replacing the thermostat at the same time as the rad. not sure what the logic is behind that but I went ahead and did that, and then they bill for coolant flush at the same time apparently, seems like that'd be rolled into the cost of the radiator replacement but what do I know. Thermostats are cheap and you might as well while you have the coolant drained. They usually charge separately for parts and fluids.
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Oct 20, 2012 04:34
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AlexanderCarrillo posted:That's the first thing I noticed, too. I initially didn't have the radio on because, yeah, I wanted to hear it sing to me through each gear change, but it is practically useless. There's no way I can play any hip-hop or jazz out of these speakers. So, it's punk and public radio until they're upgraded. I have the 6 speaker system in my 2012 Impreza. I'm not sure if its the same speakers, but the sound over FM is really terrible and empty vs other cars I have had. Audio over bluetooth isn't terrible, and a bit bassy if anything. The one thing I hate is the bluetooth phone calling forces you to go through Subaru's calling system, and doesn't work like a normal bluetooth headset. My phone's voice recognition is way more intelligent than Subaru's.
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Nov 27, 2012 13:06
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Mikemo Tyson posted:Finally got my Rally Armor flaps yesterday and installed them this morning. Wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Pulling the front of my side skirt off required a bit of muscling that scared me at first but after that it was smooth sailing. Took about 45 minutes to do it using my sloped driveway as a sort of lift for the rear-end of the car. I'm so glad you don't have them sticking 6" out the sides and dragging on the ground.
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Dec 5, 2012 00:49
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I installed Rally Armor mud flaps that I got for Christmas. They're probably overpriced. Also, the instructions don't say so, but I found it easier to remove the rear wheels to install the rear flaps. Bonus - I am wearing flannel (not intended for this thread) in the reflection in the bumper.
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Jan 6, 2013 20:49
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Totally TWISTED posted:Nice I just ordered some last night with Christmas money so I can go bombing down gravel roads (my driveway). I was wanting DRT Component flaps which I think are cheaper but they still haven't made them for the '12 Impreza and I got tired of waiting. If you have a really stubby screwdriver it can be done, but there really isn't much clearance to get the screws in the rear.
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Jan 7, 2013 01:12
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Braggo posted:I'm looking at the new Outbacks and I need a little bit of advice about which transmission to get/test drives. I probably want to stick with the 2.5 but I'm not a fan of nor have I heard good things about CVT's. I like the idea of driving a manual but have never driven one as my DD. My dad did make me learn to drive one before I could get my license but learning how to drive one 10+ years ago and being proficient are obviously two different things. I'm assuming they probably don't want me test driving their new manual outback when I'm not good at driving one right? What's the best way to go about this with being able to tell how the car drives and if it's got enough power to move that fatty crossover wagon body around? I first drove a manual when a girl I was dating in highschool decided she needed to teach me in her 88 Volvo wagon. That was about a 10 minute lesson. The next time I drove stick was 7 years later on a Jeep test drive. I did not buy that Jeep. When I test drove my Subaru this summer 3 years after the Jeep test drive, I just got right in and started doing it. Sure, my 1-2 shift was horrible for the first month, but it was easy enough to get the car moving for the test drive and the drive home later that night.
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Jan 9, 2013 00:50
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daslog posted:Has anyone ever wired in some high quality USB charging ports on their Subaru? I'm not talking one of those crappy inverters, but something that can actually charge 2 devices just as well as if they were plugged in at the house. This works pretty well for me. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XRFRNU/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_SC_dp_1
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Jan 18, 2013 19:26
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sanchez posted:I had one on my WRX, not sure on the drain issues but the big plastic cover should protect it from any debris surely. I saw in a NASIOC thread that in the 2012 Impreza it sits well above the subframe, so there is little chance of it being damaged, even the version with the nipple. I have one sitting on my desk, I'll install it when I hit 15k miles in about a month or so.
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Jan 23, 2013 04:00
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blargle posted:I had a fumoto on an '11 and ended up removing it. I didn't like how vulnerable and unprotected it was sticking out from the bottom of the oil pan. One good knock from debris and your oil comes gushing out. Also the way the valve is designed it wouldn't drain all the oil.. I'd have to unscrew the valve and a bunch more oil would pour out. I don't know about the internal designs of the oil pan, but there's about 3/8” of threads on this valve. I could see how there could be oil left in the bottom of the pan.
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Jan 23, 2013 04:45
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Just drove my 2012 Impreza 3 hours up to the mountains. The temperature was 21F when I left, and 5F when I arrived. And it snowed today. No problems with the trip, aside from the stock Yokohama's being terrible. But when I pulled into the driveway, I got all of these weird metal creaking sounds, like an old rusty mattress being pulled apart. I have no idea what this could possibly be. It sounded suspension related, but also made noise when I turned the wheel. I don't know if everything was just full of ice or what. After I unloaded the car, I moved it and there were no weird noises. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jan 26, 2013 |
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Jan 26, 2013 06:49
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Totally TWISTED posted:I'm suffering from too many options on the internet, which cabin air filter for my 2012 Impreza should I get? Rockauto has an ATP Particulate, WIX Particulate Filter, and an ATP Carbon for varying prices and "features". Should I be shopping rockauto or somewhere else? What is the replacement frequency on those?
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Feb 9, 2013 04:18
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I had a nail that was too close to the sidewall to patch safely. The tire shop offered me a Toyo Extensa HP tire, which is a different tire from the stock Yokohama Avid. From what I've read elsewhere, and from what the tire shop guy said, Subaru allows up to 3/32 difference in tires. I did some quick math, the diameter of a new Yokohama is 25.2". I measured my tread depth and I'm about 8/32 - 9/32 area, which is less than the 10/32 new. The Toyo Extensa that the shop had have a diameter of 25.1" new. Taking that 0.1" difference, and remember my 7th grade algebra, we have 1/10 = x/32. Solve for x. 0.1" = 3.2/32" Taking all of that together, I am within 1 or 2 32's apart, which is within tolerable spec. I think my main concern at this point is to monitor the tires for different wear rates. But there is still that concern of "different tires are bad" in the back of my head. Am I setting myself up for long term damage?
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Feb 11, 2013 16:26
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There was a flaw in my math. 3/32" of tread depth is actually equal to 6/32" of diameter, which is 0.1875". However, since Circumference = 3.14 * D, a tread depth difference of 3/32 would change the circumference by 0.589". For a circumference difference of 0.25", that would make the diameter difference 0.079". That's fairly close to 2.55/32. Which we then have to divide by 2 to account for both sides of the wheel. 1.275/32" difference in tread depth would be the equivalent 0.25" circumference change. That's pretty small. Small like a difference of 0.25" circumference is 2-3 rotations per mile. But I don't know if that's actually small in terms of engineering these things. Anyway, why would a major tire chain open themselves up to civil suits by providing false information regarding tire applications?
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Feb 11, 2013 21:35
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bull3964 posted:Because ultimately you have to sign off on the repair and as long as it's not seriously compromising safety, it's very unlikely you will be able to stick anything to them. Well that's the start of the whole issue - the store said the OEM tires are unavailable, and they're backordered on TireRack. I'm just going to jack the thing up and measure the circumference. There's some kind of 30 day return on the tire. None of my normal driving takes me above 50 mph, so it shouldn't be too damaging in the meantime. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Feb 11, 2013 |
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Feb 11, 2013 22:10
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I measured the tires, they're within 1/8" circumference. That's good enough for now.
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Feb 12, 2013 12:58
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Oh damnit, I have road hazard on the stock tires. I just talked to the dealership, they're going to try to figure something out with Subaru of America, but who knows if I'll get anything. Apparently I'm SOL if I don't go directly to them in the first place. These things were much less complicated when I drove beaters.
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Feb 12, 2013 21:28
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What's so special about the Subaru filters that people tend to use them over something you can get at the auto store?
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Feb 28, 2013 03:04
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ssjonizuka posted:The only potential downside - I've got it on my 08 LGT and I've had it since new. They had to reapply it due to bubbling after the first year (poor application - was just lazy about taking it back in), but after about 4 years it's starting to yellow a bit. And if you pull it off, the paint will be darker underneath, so you may as well reapply.... I heard they make them that allow UV light through to fade the paint at the same rate. I'm not sure if this is true.
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Feb 28, 2013 21:46
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daslog posted:I know 10w-30 and 10w40 are recommend on 2004 WRX STI for temps from -4 degrees F up to the top of the scale (104 degrees). However, the newer models (starting in 2011 based on your model) are requiring 0W-20 for Non-turbos and 5w-30 for turbos. Subaru says you can top off your 0W-20 with 5W-30. I wonder how much they consider a top off to be.
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Mar 11, 2013 16:03
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I didn't know I was supposed to wave. I thought that was for Jeep Wranglers and Harley Davidsons and bicyclists who aren't up their own rear end about having a more expensive bike than you. I'll keep an eye out and wave.
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Mar 12, 2013 03:29
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Why is the paint on these cars so weak? I have 18k miles, and my front bumper has magnitudes more chips than my old Pontiac that had 190k miles.
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Mar 30, 2013 19:30
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Hollis Brown posted:My girlfriend just bought one. 2013 venetian red, premium trim with moonroof. The premium with cloth still gets heated seats which is somewhat rare nowadays at least when we were looking at other manufacturers. The engine bay is pretty spacious compared to my WRX, and the oil filter is right in front of the engine bay as well. I would have bought one if they were available when I needed to buy a car. That said, the Crosstrek is an Impreza with a few inches more ground clearance, stiffened rear end, and slightly different gearing. There seems to be more aftermarket support directed at the Crosstrek, but those parts should all fit the Impreza anyway. If you don't need the ground clearance, just get an Impreza for a few grand less for the same trim level.
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Mar 31, 2013 15:46
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I never considered proper break-in procedure, but I think learning to drive manual achieved the same results.
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Apr 10, 2013 12:11
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Mikemo Tyson posted:My MY13 wrx just ticked over 3k miles and I'm looking to do an oil change. I've always ran Mobil 1 in my Volkswagens but after looking at some DIYs on NASOIC and ClubWRX it seems as if the second Mobil 1 hits my engine it will force my connecting rods to shoot out into orbit and then possibly kick my dog. Anyone have any suggestions on oil? Also, I read that there is a crush gasket on the drain plug, where would I get another one of these, the dealership? Is it advisable to use a Subaru OEM oil filter too? There's a mail in rebate on Pennzoil Platinum right now, which people seem to think is pretty decent. http://www.pennzoil.com/diy-rebate/ An OEM filter probably requires the least amount of thought. I've been reading about filters all day, and it's all a big mystery. Some people blame improper filters for premature turbo failure due to either different bypass pressure, or lack of anti-drainback valve. Bypass pressure valve exists to protect the filter medium. If there is a pressure buildup due to huge flow requirements, or if the medium is clogged, the bypass valve will open and let the oil flow uninterrupted. I can't find a reasoning for whether or not a higher or lower bypass pressure is better or worse than stock. The anti-drainback valve keeps oil from draining back out of the filter when the engine is not running. If there is oil in the filter, the engine will receive lubrication more quickly at startup. This shouldn't matter if your filter screws in from the bottom with the holes facing up. This is important if your filter sits on top or maybe sideways. While I really would like to know if the bypass pressure matters, ultimately an OEM filter requires less thought.
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May 10, 2013 20:20
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sanchez posted:I used the Subaru factory 5w-30 synthetic purely to stop them having an excuse if any warranty issues came up, ditto for the filter. People will get antsy about its performance over time but if you change it at say 5k miles, you'll be fine. fredbeansparts has both. Well technically they can't use that as an excuse for warranty issues due to federal law. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act http://www.accessconnect.com/aftermarket-parts-warranty.htm posted:The essence of the law concerning new aftermarket auto parts is that a vehicle manufacturer may not condition a written or implied warranty on the consumers using parts or services which are identified by brand, trade, or corporate name (such as the vehicle maker's brand) unless the parts or service are provided free of charge. The law means that the use of an automotive aftermarket part alone is not cause for denying the warranty. However, the law's protection does not extend to aftermarket parts in situations where such parts actually caused the damage being claimed under the warranty. Subaru can't require you use their parts. But if your aftermarket filter can be shown to have failed and caused the issue, then you'll have to take it up with Fram/Purolator/Wix/ACDelco/what-have-you.
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May 10, 2013 21:16
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TheFargate posted:Well after seeing the chipping on the side and browsing the interwebs the most common solution I saw was the rally armor so i said gently caress it and ordered some. Would you by chance be able to reccomend somewhere in nj area to get a clear bra installed? Also trying to determine exactly what areas to cover. I know at the least the bumper and front lip area of the hood. There are similar options at better prices. Flapatax and some other brand that I can't remember the name of. Other people are happy with $20 generic set from the auto parts store, and some people use cutting boards from IKEA which is weird to me.
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Jun 6, 2013 12:43
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TheFargate posted:Googled ikea mudflaps and I must say they look a lot less ridiculous than I had pictured it in my head. Other than the fact that rally armor is absurdly overpriced, do they offer significantly less protection than those like you have suggested? If not I will most likely just install those( should arrive tomorrow) as I drive around 100 miles per day for work and would like to have something installed asap to minimize anymore possible damage. Eh, it's a mudflap. It's a piece of rubber or plastic that screws onto your car. The advantage of polyurethane flaps is durability. I have RallyArmor flaps (which I received as a gift), and after seeing what they are, it's really ridiculous what they charge. You're paying for name with those. Them providing the installation hardware makes it really easy, but if you can cut straight lines and put holes in the right spot, it would be economical to just buy a huge semi-truck mud flap or two and cut it to size. Also, don't back into any curbs because you'll tear those $150 flaps off in a second. edit: vvv A testament to their durability. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 14:52
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nm posted:They're more like midwestern road armor. Great for winter, probably bad for rally. They are shockingly expensive, though mine have 100k mi on them at this point and show no signs of stopping. The legacy wagon suffers from damage on the rear from poo poo kicked up by the tires, and mine is one of the few that saw a midwestern winter or three and aren't torn up there. I mounted mine on the opposite sides so they would be reversed and logo would be hidden.
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Jun 6, 2013 19:20
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So now the logos are visible from the front instead of the back? Slightly obscured by the tires? Seems even goofier. You'd have to really stick your head in there and look to see it.
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Jun 6, 2013 19:44
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