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ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

EVIL Gibson posted:

You can only have one or the other; never both

-in the $300 to $500 range
-not complete and utter bullshit to maintain


To continue having fun like the library printer (which is probably very expensive and built for high use) , bump it up to 900 and get a prusa.

I thought prusa was over priced but the ability to jot have to worry about levelling or power cutting or collisions happening ruining a print I can admit I am having way more fun.

Isn't it only 750? I have a MP select mini v2 right now and it's great, however if I feel I need something bigger I think the MK3 is the next step for me.
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/180-original-prusa-i3-mk3-kit.html

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ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

politicorific posted:

Apparently I suck at slicing.

or the monoprice 3d delta community sucks at consolidating information(wiki, Reddit, fb!). I tried cura 3.0 and the profile off the wiki, but ended up with wispy prints, I’m told this is due to the filament not retracting enough before making large x/y movements.

Is there a guide out there for how to make good files for printing stuff off thingiverse?

The 3d printer makes a god awful amount of noise compared to the auto(cat) print that came on the SD card.

Anything in particular you are trying to print? I have a v2 and have had great prints, but I use simplify 3d currently. You printing with PLA or PETG?

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

spoon daddy posted:

For the past 6-7 years I've toyed with the idea of 3D printing(I've read this thread off and on since 2011/2012). I'm thinking of diving in for miniature, miniature stand printing, and other small item printing without spending too much and was delighted to see that Monoprice has a few options here. I had a few questions

* I assume I should just go for the Mini V2 (the $60 difference between gens is fine) or is it too new for a newbie? Is there another recommendation in this price range?

* Any additional tips on basics of 3D printing since the OP was editted and now just has that one pager on high level tips. I'm just looking for a page that does a bit of an overview of the technology as it exists today and the things to be aware of? If I just need to google around, I'll do that but if someone had a blog post/wiki/knowledge base of 3D printing that they trust that'd be a great start.

Mini V2 is a good printer for first 3d printer. I got it about 3 weeks ago and have had great results.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

Hatchbox is a pretty good one.


Hatchbox is having some issues with supplying on amazon. Amz3d filament is the same as Hatchbox on a different spool. (from the same factory I believe). Other option is esun PLA+ which I have had great luck with the fire truck red color.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

biracial bear for uncut posted:

I will never understand the logic of buying a super cheap printer then spending more money upgrading it than you would have spent just saving up for a Prusa MK* to begin with.

I mean, sure, I buy cheap printers and haven't sprung for a Prusa yet, but I don't waste money on upgrading parts (re-using parts from dead printers doesn't count).

I think I already know the answer but is there really anything better than the MK3 around $750? Its a little bit higher price than I would like to go but seems worth it. Currently have the MP Mini v2 and love it but would like a bigger print bed and faster print times.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

BMan posted:

Get a Prusa i3 MK3.

3rded but double check the delivery times, they are a month or so backordered now.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Get this one if you're just at the loving around stage of things, then:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21711

This is what I did. Good printer but after 3 weeks I already want the MK3.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
Anyone have a MK3 in here? I've been seeing a few things about the layers not quite aligning properly. I was probably going to pull the trigger on the kit later this month or next if everything is ironed out.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

foosel posted:

I have a MK3. Quite happy with the quality, haven't noticed any alignment problems.

Did you do the kit or buy it assembled?

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
Can anyone that has a MK3 comment on the print quality. I preordered yesterday but it was before I found the thread where it seems 50% of people wish they would of gotten the mk2s since the print quality of the mk3 appears to have issues?

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Given that print quality is mostly a function of slicer settings (with a mindful eye on the machine you're sending the resulting programs to), that's not really a valid criticism.

People get amazing prints out of a $200 Monoprice Select Mini, and people also get garbage prints out of Ultimakers.

This does not seem to be slicer based, seems to be the actual machine or firmware. People have tried basically all slicers and settings and still get issues.

https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/general-discussion-announcements-and-releases-f61/-testers-needed-inconsistent-extrusion-t15433.html

Was just hoping that someone who owns one could chime in. Its hard to see how widespread it might be when people who have perfectly fine prints usually don't post about it.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

NeurosisHead posted:

Prusa Mk3 kit showed up today! Got drunk putting together the y axis so now it's bedtime, but I'm excited to keep playing with my new toy!

Would love to see some of the prints when you get it all together.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

NeurosisHead posted:

Do any of you use eSun PLA Pro and find that the ideal temperature is way higher than you expect? It seems to want to run at 225ish for me, and Hatchbox and Prusa PLAs run closer to 205.

Yes, best filament I use. Hatchbox is 205, PLA Pro is 215 for me.
Also their firetruck red is the best red.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

Parts Kit posted:

Got a Noctua 40mm fan to replace or supplement the 30mm fan on my Monoprice mini. :radcat:

Not sure why they opted for tiny rubber buttplugs instead of normal machine screws to hold it in place though.

Do you have v2? I need to replace my fan as it is going out I think. Did you wire it directly to the 12v or use the existing fan wires?

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

Parts Kit posted:

I have the V2 and just nipped off the old and spliced in the new.

Perfect, that's what I want to do. Can you post or send the link you of which one you bought.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
I got my Ender 3 in. Built it and had quite a few issues I gradually fixed one by one (bed wobble and under extrusion mostly). Had I not had to fix my mini v2 a few times I am not sure I would have known what to look for. Now it is up and running and getting great prints but maybe not the best printer for a first timer for sure.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

Siochain posted:

So I've been tasked with hunting down a 3d printer for work. Going to be used to print 3d models of the mine I work at. Looking for something in the $1500-$2500 CDN range - size of bed and quality are bigger concerns than anything else.

I've only looked into home-3d printers, so this is a bit bigger than what I've investigated on my own.

Any quick suggestions/directions folks can throw my way?

Flashforge Guider 2, not sure how much CDN but middle of your range in USD.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
I also found that I just get better parts more consistently from simplify. This is both with the mp mini v2 and the Ender 3.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

That Gobbo posted:

I started with a Monoprice Select Mini and very quickly got an Ender 3 and wish I had just gone for the Ender 3 at the start honestly. It's a little more assembly and tinkering out of the box but I was able to get higher quality prints than the Select Mini really quickly.

This. I had to fix a few things on my mini so I knew how to do it on the ender 3 but I could of just learned on the ender 3. I put a glass bed ($7 from lowes) and some dampers ($8 from amazon). Printed a few small upgrades and it has been great quite machine.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Well, I don't really need the actual humidity level. I just want to see if it's increasing or decreasing inside my dry box.

Here is what I use. When they get really pink I just throw all the gel packs (non color changing ones also) into the oven for 2 hours or so. Let them cool and they are recharged.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1UT6L6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
The Pallette Mosaic 2 actually looks really good. I watched the video on tested and 3d printing nerd a week or two back and looks like a huge improvement on the first generation.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

TwystNeko posted:

I agree, the Palette 2 looks a lot better. I do wonder how much pre-video calibration they did. I'm going to restart the whole process from scratch, and see how it turns out. One of the things I want to try is using PVA as a support material. That to me is the bigger value of this kind of system. If I get this working well, I may drop the cash on the new one. $500 USD is not that bad. I wouldn't have paid for this version, though. $1000 is definitely too much.

I went ahead and preordered Palette 2, will let you guys know how it is whenever it comes in. I print multiple colors a lot with a pause in between (coasters and such) and having it be able to do that for me would save a lot of time.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
I assume the price per print on a da Vinci system would be pretty high since they DRM their filament for their 1 color systems.
Does the Prusa MMU work on anything other than Prusa?

I'm looking at $700 for 4 color printer with cheap per print filament ($200 ender 3 and $500 Pallette 2). Assuming it works as well as it seems to then that sounds pretty good to me.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

biracial bear for uncut posted:

EDIT: Oh yeah, don't complain about DRM filament when you're playing with a DRM-locked slicer.

I don't even... Are you confusing closed source and DRM? How is it affecting the price per print like DRM filament would?

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

biracial bear for uncut posted:

Ask yourself: If the company that sells the Palette goes under, how will you continue to use the hardware once the closed source, online-only slicer goes away?

I would use the desktop version.

ClassH fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Sep 10, 2018

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

Novo posted:

I want to make my MK2 quieter and it seems like adding the TMC2130 drivers is the way to go. Trouble is, I haven't modified my printer before and I can't decide which would be easier: adding silent step sticks or trying to swap in an Einsy Rambo. I don't mind soldering and Arduino hacking but I'm not experienced enough to know exactly how to do this aside from reading blog and forum posts.

Does anyone have any thoughts on which approach I should take?

These make a HUGE difference in noise. This is of course if you haven't already used dampers.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

Jestery posted:

My mini factory is decent

This is my second go to after thingiverse. I also use http://www.yeggi.com/ to search across multiple sites.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

As Nero Danced posted:

Between the one I just returned and some other reports I'm reading I'm starting to get cold feet on re-ordering one. Are there any other printers in the $200-300 range that are worth a drat?

My Ender 3 was perfect, threw some dampers on it and replaced a fan and its been a great printer for $230.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
I missed the earlier cookie cutter talk. I made a bunch earlier this year and used a food safe resin to coat them, really helps when cleaning them.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CVYNQ4U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have a picture of one but here is the same resin on coasters I made.
https://imgur.com/oFDVvdi

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
Do you have allow single layer walls, not sure the name in cura.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
There is also printing width settings for single extrusions in simplify. When I was printing a particularly finicky part I had to modify those up and down to get the fill correct.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
My pallette 2 gets delivered tomorrow. They released the octoprint plugin already so I should be able to get it up and running fairly quickly.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
I got Palette 2 last night. Here is my 2nd print. 1st print using canvas online slicer didn’t come out right. I used Simplify 3D and Chroma (the desktop app) on 2nd print and worked really well.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

mattfl posted:

Awesome! What printer are you running?

Ender 3.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

mattfl posted:

Everyone in my family is getting puzzle boxes as well with cash inside. I'm printing a special one for my brother which is actually 4 puzzle pieces in one.

This one, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2410748

The one that holds a giftcard is for my wife's aunt who she says is going to loose her mind trying to figure it out lol

https://imgur.com/a/gBlhDdZ

I've printed these a couple times. They always go over great. I am actually using the openscad to generate a new maze for this round because the current maze is a little easy on the inner ones.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

mattfl posted:

Fillamentum Extrafill might be my new favorite filament.

I used their Vertigo Galaxy PLA to print this gently caress you puzzle box for my brother lol

https://imgur.com/a/RvXgDJV

Got to up your game if it’s for your brother.

The puzzle customizer is pretty awesome. That is double height. I’m currently creating one that is 6 deep and 200mm high compared to 75.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
Here is the 6 piece 200mm tall one I was requested to make for someone. I put the normal size one in front for scale.

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

MrDesaude posted:

I require a file for this. There is much fuckery to spread!

Here is the main one, this has the link if you want to generate your own custom size.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2410748

You manipulate the URL and change the numbers for sizes.
eg. http://e.gg/puzzlebox.cgi/75/15/5/io
you would change the 75 height number to 150 for double height, and the 15 to 20 if you wanted it wider. the I and O are inner outer as described in the main part description.
You need scad to generate the STLs after the link creates the scad file.

If you just want STLs to the huge rear end set this guy made them and posted STLs in his first comment.
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:495845
Or I could generate smaller/custom ones if anyone wants, I have a set of double high 6 piece already generated. (for that middle ground between hard and insane amounts of filament.)

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
After the pictures I checked my Ender 3 connector last night and it's in perfect condition. It has been printing non stop more or less for 3 months. So possibly poor quality control from a Chinese company....

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ClassH
Mar 18, 2008
The MP10 actually looks pretty drat good. I didn't realize it had half of the features it did when I first glanced at it.

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