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What type of plants are you interested in growing?
This poll is closed.
Perennials! 142 20.91%
Annuals! 30 4.42%
Woody plants! 62 9.13%
Succulent plants! 171 25.18%
Tropical plants! 60 8.84%
Non-vascular plants are the best! 31 4.57%
Screw you, I'd rather eat them! 183 26.95%
Total: 679 votes
[Edit Poll (moderators only)]

 
Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I feel like I'm probably just being a dumb poo poo, but does anyone know what kind of aloe (that's as specific as the tag at the nursery got) this is? I'm guessing it's some common variety but I am having no luck.

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Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

Well friend, first off: that’s an agave not an aloe

In good news it looks pretty drat healthy!

It does rather look like an agave, now that you mention it. (It's definitely an agave)

Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Mar 10, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I have more dumb plant questions for you, plant thread, because the entirety of my impractical plant knowledge came from three botany classes in college.

I picked up this tall boy who was labeled as a cactus :saddowns: the other day.




Unless I'm even stupider than I think (a distinct possibility), it's a Euphorbia. It looks like Euphorbia ingens to me but I don't know poo poo. Hopefully it isn't going to take over my entire house because there's no way it's going to survive outdoors here. It's a bit pot-bound already so I am afeared.

For bonus points the hybrid Echeveria in the bottom left of the first picture was sold as 'Dick's Pink' but it doesn't really look like one. Here's an actual picture of it:



Anyone know what it is?

Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Mar 10, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

elgarbo posted:

That's definitely a Euphorbia, probably ingens.

No idea about the Echeveria though - there's about a million hybrids and cultivars and heaps of them are poorly labelled.

Thanks for the confirmation. I didn't expect anyone would actually be able to ID the hybrid but I don't suppose it matters too much.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I have spent the last week going slowly insane trying to find saucers that will correctly fit in some plant stands I got a while ago; they came with cheap plastic saucers that I don't trust to hold any actual weight. It turns out no one (that I can find, anyway) notes the sizes of saucers accurately online (as I found out when some of them arrived) and for some reason the Home Depot here is currently stocking 4-7" saucers and 14-20" saucers but nothing in between.

On the plus side I found a ~10" malnourished cristate Eve's needle (Opuntia subulata) waiting to die in Home Depot's pile of unloved plants that I couldn't resist for $20.

Oil of Paris posted:

But alas, two great plant sales I was looking forward to are now canceled. So now I'm either looking at mail order or finally learning how to do propagation properly :qfg:

All of the bulb shows out here have been cancelled as well, though I did manage to make it to one of them two days before it got closed down.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

Outside of you standing guard with a super soaker, there’s no force on earth that will stop a cat from making GBS threads in nice easy-to-dig earth

I mean, if you're crazy about it you could get one of these to stand guard with a super soaker. (No idea if that is a good one or a lovely one, but there are a bunch of them.)

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Plants seem to be doing plant things real good now that the sun is coming around.

My Haworthia that started putting out a shoot over a month ago decided it was time to flower:


And this little Echeveria purpusorum (maybe/probably) is going for it:



The cristate Opuntia subulata I found disheveled at Home Depot a while ago also seems to be recovering alright after repotting (it was a lot more root bound than I expected), but its weird shape is kinda hard to photograph:





If I catch up on all my plant chores does that mean I have to buy more plants? I assume that's how this works.

Jestery posted:

Said gently caress it today and made a little vegetable garden

Looks pretty spiffy

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Nosre posted:

That's some happy looking cacti/succs. What's your potting mix there? I'm guessing the top rocks are just a dressing

Yeah, the top dressing is just 1/4 inch pumice. I'm using cheap succulent mix from wherever or, honestly, whatever came in the pot with the plant (dirt someone sprinkled some pearlite into as far as I can tell) cut approximately 50/50 with a mixture of turface and calcined clay.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Mar 30, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Your greenhouse looks lovely!

elgarbo posted:

Last year, I sowed a stupid 4000 seeds and now, almost 100% survival AND they're big and robust and healthy. And now I'm facing the cactus apocalypse. Where the hell am I supposed to house this ungodly number of plants when they inevitably need to be potted up? Maybe by then I'll build a bigger greenhouse.

This is the problem with making more plants; you have to figure out what to do with them afterwards. I had a few Sedum species sent to me dry root a while ago and a decent number of leaves fell off in shipping so I decided to try and propagate them in the laziest way possible so they have just been sitting on some soil after drying out for a while and now they are starting to put out roots. I have no plans for what I will do with 20 tiny Sedum rubrotinctums if they actually survive. I also have a large and poorly cared for Aloe nobilis that I couldn't resist at bargain basement Home Depot prices that had one of its heads poo poo the bed—I kept the leaves since they can apparently be propagated that way but I don't know what the hell I am going to attempt to plant them in.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Red_Fred posted:

Hi thread, can anyone identify this cactus? Also, is it OK that's it's growing back like that? I'm worried it might break.



Looks like one of many types of Opuntia to me but I am not a cactus expert by any means. Is it getting good sun? It looks like the new growth is stretching.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Apr 11, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

elgarbo posted:

Wallet has it right on both counts - it's some sort of Optuntia (prickly pear) and it's definitely not getting enough light. Those new growths are growing long and thin seeking out the sun.

My cactus collection is marginally less impressive than elgarbo's (I only have one), but speaking of new growth and Opuntias, the Depot refugee Autrocylindropuntia subulata f. cristata I posted earlier has started branching (padding?) right at its two edges, and I am interested in how that is going to play out. First it put out a bunch of tiny little leaves and now it's stretchin'.



The right one is kind of hard to see because I am bad at cameras:


But the left one is pretty clear:

Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Apr 13, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I. M. Gei posted:

For a prickly pear cactus? No, not even close. Cacti in general crave sunlight; they need 6 to 8 hours of (preferably direct) sunlight minimum. If you can’t give them that then you may wanna look into a small grow light.

Prickly pears are the most cold-tolerant and I think the most shade-tolerant of cacti species, but even they have limits.

My (weird) Opuntia is doing really well right up against an east facing window but the only thing between it and the sun is some window frosting—there's a wide range of conditions that count as "filtered" that probably go all the way from "might as well be shade" to "nearly full sun". If it isn't already I would at least transition it (not at all once depending on how big of a shift that is) to being in front of your sunniest window.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Fitzy Fitz posted:

Just got the swamp mallows and scarlet beebalm that I ordered like a month ago. Gonna try to make something out of this swampy garden bed I could never find a use for.

I bought a place recently and as things have started waking up I have realized that A) whoever planted my gardens previously had awful taste in plants and B) they didn't realize that plants are different heights and you probably shouldn't plant a row of (ugly) shrubs at the front of the bed and (ugly) ground cover right against the foundation. I just ordered a bunch of plants for the gardens (the nursery I ordered from says that plants are shipping to my hardiness zone "within 3 weeks" :argh:) so I suspect I will spend the next three weeks doing a lot of digging.

That aside I'm on a fairly busy street and I'd like to plant some trees dotted down the south side of my fence to create a partial barrier so I'm trying to find appropriate varieties that are relatively thin and will grow to a decent height fairly quickly but aren't going to grow into cell phone towers—I'm definitely not after an unbroken wall of something like arborvitae as I don't want to block out all of the sunlight from the gardens and the windows, particularly in winter, so probably deciduous, and if I'm being picky I'd rather have a mixture of different trees rather a row of a single type. I realize that's a laundry list of requirements but do we have any tree experts lurking around that might have some recommendations for zone 6? I've been looking around online and the sheer variety is super overwhelming.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I am not at all sure about zone 6, but crepe myrtles are great, fairly quick growing small/medium trees with year round interest. Japanese maples are too, and some of the seed grown, unimproved plain ones are actually fairly fast growing too. Japanese/saucer magnolias are also nice medium trees with pretty flowers in early spring. There are other cool flowering trees too-buckeyes, redbud and dogwoods come to mind but are slower growing. Fruit trees like apples/peaches/plums/pears/ornamental cherries might be an option too-some can be fairly fast growing.

Thanks for this! Having somewhere to at least start helps a lot and holy crap are there some pretty crepe myrtles and dogwoods that are zone 6 hearty. I think I might put in some river birch as well.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

z0331 posted:

We're in 6a/6b - New Jersey suburbs, just outside NYC.

If nothing else your post has made me realize that my own inherited plant issues are nowhere near as bad as they could be. The previous owners put the ugliest shrubs I've ever seen in and planted some kind of ivy but it hasn't grown in at all yet so I can tear it all out before it goes nuts. There are day lilies attempting to take over the entire property but, you know, at least it's not ivy. They did plant a standard ornamental cherry of some kind smack dab in the middle of the side yard which is going to turn the whole thing into full shade eventually if I don't move it, which I am not looking forward to, but at least it has only been in the ground for a couple of years.

z0331 posted:

In the future I want to pull out all of those privets and plant something. Maybe azaleas? I want a native shrub that will get roughly the same height.

I really like these guys in Connecticut if you're looking for ideas. They make good plants but more importantly their website has good filters for hardiness zone, light conditions, mature height, etc.

elgarbo posted:

I cut it off the graft and regrafted to a more permanent rootstock (still no chlorophyll, so it can't survive on its own roots). The surgery was a success, and here it is today:


Out of interest, what kind of medium are you using for your cactus farm? I've been replanting some things in a gritty mix after getting uncomfortable with how long some of them were maintaining moisture.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

actionjackson posted:

Any suggestions for indoor plants that are super easy to take care of? I have two sansevierias and a zanzibar. they don't require any direct sunlight and only need to be watered once a month, which is why they are still alive!

Are you looking for plants you can forget exist for a month or just ones that are easy to keep happy in not-ideal conditions? E.g. Peace lily is pretty hard to gently caress up and they don't need a boatload of light, but mine wants water twice a week. It wilts dramatically when it's thirsty which is pretty hard to miss even from two rooms away (it bounces back almost immediately when you give it a drink).

Wallet fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Apr 21, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

elgarbo posted:

My mix is unnecessarily complex, I just like how it looks and it gives me good results. It's approx 3 parts pumice, 3 parts sifted cactus mix, 1 part zeolite, 1 part akadama and a handful of slow release fertiliser. If I replaced the zeolite and akadama with pumice it would be just as good, but they give the soil a bit of a rainbow look.

With that many plants a little complication seems reasonable—it's not like top dressing is a sane option. It looks like a pretty normal gritty mix but then there's extra color in there that made me wonder.

Not to play 20 questions but is there any particular slow release fertilizer brand you've found particularly suitable? Some of the specialized ones seem to get super expensive.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Keelbone posted:

I'm guessing these are buds too


Those are flowers, yeah. They will also produce pups on stalks that initially look very similar but they tend not to get nearly as long. Trying to ID specific Echeverias is kind of a crapshoot because of all of the hybrids and cultivars and poo poo but given the shot of the flowers this looks like a dead ringer for Echeveria purpusorum.


elgarbo posted:

Your mystery plant is a Kalanchoe (pronounced Ka-lan-ko-ee) of some sort.
I have heard a number of people pronounce this as kuh-lan-cho which kind of weirds me out but supposedly it's also "correct".

Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Apr 26, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I have a moderate collection of succulents in my living room that could use a little more light in the perpetual overcast soup that we have been living in here. I'm considering swapping the bulbs in my lamps to those full spectrum LEDs they sell for people with SAD and putting them on timers. I looked at bulbs actually designed as grow lights but all of them I can find that are 5000-5500k seem to be directional (meant to be hung upside down above your plants) which would just illuminate my ceiling. This should theoretically work, right? I'm not sure if 800 lumen bulbs 6-36 inches from the plants is going to be enough to make much of a difference and I don't have much experience with grow lights.

coronatae posted:

Hi gardening goons! We recently bought a house and I am trying to identify some of the denizens of our backyard. This dude has been confounding me.



It does look like it could be one of many varieties of streaked hosta but it could be something else entirely. The condition its growing in (sun/shade/etc) and what zone might let you narrow it down.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

I always try to get a picture when I get a new plant for future comparison and a cristate Pachycereus marginatus just arrived. It needs a little cleaning but I figured I'd :justpost: in case anyone else is into that sort of thing:

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Platystemon posted:

Instead of mirrors, simply put a white surface behind the plants.

If you actually need/want more light mirrors will work better than white paint for increasing light as long as you angle them appropriately. I've seen a number of people do this to increase the light coming in a window by a bit (with strips of mirror along the inside of the window frame—there's an example in the first minute of this video) or to move light they already get that's in the wrong place.

As elgarbo pointed out, suddenly blasting any plant with a ton more light than it has been getting previously is a good way to burn the poo poo out of it before it can adjust, so be careful.

Perpetual Hiatus posted:

b) is there a good resource for likely condition changes for monstrose/cristate/albino things? (eg I have a cristate ghost next to a cristate, the cristate massively reverted the ghost seems happy?)

I haven't found great resources about this, but for the most part the normal form of the plant should give you some idea of the requirements of a monstrose/cristate form of the same plant. Many cristate/monstrose forms are supposedly a bit less robust than their normal forms (which makes sense) so they can require a bit more care.

As far as I know truly albino plants are going to have a rough go of it because they have no chlorophyll. If you just mean succulents/cacti that have white or close to white foliage, as far as I know most of the naturally occuring instances of this are in plants that get massive amounts of direct sunlight in their native range and have evolved lightly colored foliage to reflect enough light that they don't get roasted. I would expect plants with that sort of coloration to need a good deal of direct sunlight to be happy.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:56 on May 2, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

MisterBibs posted:

I stumbled upon a video or two on youtube about cutting off bits of a succulent, letting them bud/grow roots, and then replanting them to grow more plants. Obviously this depends a lot on the plant and the ambient humidity, but is there any rule of thumb to go from cutting to "ok these things are now kosher to put into a new pot"?

Keep in mind that not all succulents can be propagated from cuttings so it's worth googling "whatever propagation" before you spend three months looking at a leaf that was never capable of rooting.

If you read around you'll see people say a lot of different things. You basically just take an appropriate cutting (or leaf you accidentally knocked off or whatever), optionally hit it with some root hormone, let the wound callous over (you can usually tell pretty clearly) and then wait for it to root in some sun. Depending on the kind of plant/cutting you can either lay it on top of soil or stick the end of it in while you wait for it to start rooting.

A lot of people talk about misting their cuttings daily even before they have roots (after they have calloused) but I'm not convinced that it accomplishes much of anything. Once they have roots they can start taking up water (in small amounts more often than a full plant). Then you just wait for them to get big enough to treat them like a regular (small) plant.

Thread is better when the balance of pictures to :words: is maintained so here's some Sedum rubrotinctum leaves I knocked off by accident that are starting to put out new tiny little leaves:


And here's some cuttings of Sedum sexangulare (and maybe some other variety) that are rooting like mad:

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

MisterBibs posted:

If I use tap water, should I filter it or not, as a rule of thumb?

If you're worried about it or you have particularly awful water, filter it. Otherwise don't. My succulents are perfectly happy with tap water but we have pretty good water here. I mostly hear people with hard water worried about mineral buildup, and I guess some people are concerned about water loving up the PH of their medium though it's very inexpensive to test the PH of your tap water.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

actionjackson posted:

Hi, I just got an 8" dracaena giganta (drat that's fun to say) for my bedroom. My question is what is the best pot size? The stores are out of a lot of stuff so 12" was the best they had. Is that too big? It's no problem for me to return the pot and try to find a 10" one.



If it came in an 8" pot you probably want a 10"—I believe some varieties of Dracaena do better without a ton of extra space but I'm not sure if that applies here. That said, a 12" pot might not be ideal but it will probably do just fine as long as it's in well draining soil and the pot has a drainage hole.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

actionjackson posted:

Is there some cheap way to make a plant stand for the corner of my bedroom? It needs to be at least a couple feet tall and hold a 10" pot. Most of the actual stands are not my style, too expensive or too short. Just some hack I can do with Target stuff would be cool! Right now it's sitting on a chair, pretty sad.

Finding plant stands at a particular height is a huge pain in the rear end in a top hat based on recent experience. Places like Lowes, Home Depot, and Amazon will have a decent number listed but they won't let you filter by height while places like Wayfair that do let you filter by height tend to be pretty expensive (though sometimes you can find the same item listed on Wayfair for a lot less money elsewhere). If you find a cheap (actual) plant stand you like I'd be careful—most of the inexpensive metal ones are super unstable. As someone else suggested, I'd look for side tables or accent tables, particularly second hand ones—I've found some nice stuff on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace though most of them needed some refinishing or painting.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Anyone have any good recommendations for plants (preferably perennials) that smell bad to animals (I mostly see squirrels and chipmunks) for zone 6b? I have a big full-sun bed and I went out there this morning to find that something had gnawed half of the leaves off of my newly planted Sedum telephium before having a go at an unidentified Sempervivum. Both of the plants it tried to eat have red leaves but I don't know if that's a sign of some specific kind of animal or just chance.

My current plan is to mix in alliums and maybe some lavender and hope that helps but I figured some of you might have more interesting ideas.

Oil of Paris posted:

Pushed the zone boundaries a little bit yesterday by planting Abutilon in the sunniest section of the shade area.



These are gorgeous.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

My big recommendation for critter repellent is always a border of marigolds [...]

Thanks for the reccomendations! I know marigolds are the go-to but there's something about them I just can't stand.

I'll definitely dig into available catmint cultivars as their care requirements suggest they might do well there. I don't think I have room for lantana and I'm afraid illicium would get annihilated by the sun unless I watered the poo poo out of it which would make everything else unhappy (most of the stuff in that bed wants things on the dry side).

While I was poking around I found this weird tiny Japanese garlic that's supposedly evergreen at Plant Delights that may or may not smell enough to deter pests but seems like an interesting plant to grow anyway.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Platystemon posted:

It’s the pandemic.

Quarantine kickstarted garden projects that people would have put off till next year or whatever.

Yeah, it's this. Online nurseries are getting slammed as well.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

subpar anachronism posted:

They're not really at the level of problem; I see maybe one or two a day and only ever in that one corner of my apartment and I spend a lot of time there. More an eyesore than anything. I'll give the sand a try, thanks!

e: there's three dozen plants and an aerogarden in that corner so maybe more than a few plants is a fair assessment :angel:

The gnats aren't an issue in and of themselves (other than being a nuisance) but the larvae can do real damage to plants if it gets out of hand. The simplest solution I know of is to allow the soil in the plants to dry out between waterings, but your plants may not like that very much.

Fungus gnats like to lay their eggs right near the surface of the soil and they want it to be moist so putting a half inch layer of sand or something else that rapidly drains on top can apparently prevent them from laying eggs—from personal experience this works with pumice. As anatomi noted, diatomaceous earth is also an option (you can get a good sized bottle of food grade diatomaceous earth on Amazon or whatever for 6 or 7 bucks) but diatomaceous earth is ineffective when moist so it's going to require a lot of reapplication on plants that want to be wet all the time.

Using Neem oil as a soil drench will supposedly kill all of the larvae and it can be sprayed on the foliage to combat the gnats themselves, and I've also heard of people using diluted hydrogen peroxide though I've never tried it personally. You can also try making your own simple traps by putting some apple cider vinegar in a bowl and mixing it with a few dots of dish soap though I've never found that to be terribly effective.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

ReapersTouch posted:

If they were wrapped up like spaghetti, you can actually take a box cutter and rake it up and down the length of the root ball in several spots. If it's really severe and the bottom is a completely solid disk of root , you can cut off the bottom inch or so. You wont damage the plant doing so. As long as the roots are pointed in a direction other than in a circle.

When you're doing this for shrubs/trees you should make sure you don't leave any of them circling around the stem of the plant because they can eventually girdle it as it grows.

The other thing to keep an eye out for when you're planting things and evaluating their roots is what they're actually planted in. Nurseries will often grow plants in mediums that work great when you have a system giving them water at a constant rate but are varying degrees of awful for a plant that is going to be outdoors in the ground.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jun 11, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

surf rock posted:

Downside of that group... it would be like $270 for five plants and some admittedly nice vases. I bit the bullet on Sill prices for the ZZ plant last year, but doing some Googling, it seems like I can pretty easily get all these for one-quarter the price or less from other places. So, that's the plan.

Holy gently caress is that a lot for those plants. I guess they must just be charging tons for the pots? Etsy is surprisingly decent if you know the specific plant you want and you can't get it locally.

You might want to check out some of the many varieties of Peperomia as there are quite a few with a lot more color on them. There are also a number of succulents that have the kind of care regimen I assume you're going for and don't need a ton of light like Dracaena (which it sounds like you've already had success with), Gasteria, some Sedums and Kalanchoes, Hoya, and a bunch of other stuff I'm forgetting. As far as succulents go I'll caution that even though you'll be able to find a number of varieties that look colorful and will do fine in those conditions, virtually all of them are going to lose their color pretty quickly with limited light like that.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

this was my reaction too. I said "got drat" to myself when I saw those prices, and I buy from places like Plant Delights regularly lol. Houseplants seem like the new hotness for ripoff poo poo, especially since I've long considered most houseplants to be easily propagated

Plant Delights is pricey but they've also always sent me very nicely rooted plants that fill out the pots they're sold in and most of the stuff they sell you can't get anywhere else. It just so happens that I placed an order with them about a week ago that was $275 shipped, but that was for 12 unusual beauties. Sixty something dollars for a pothos in a little pot is highway robbery.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

Yeah I’ve always felt good about the Plant Delights prices. They’re high quality, healthy, and, while I always go pick up, I’ve heard ship super wells. You get what you pay for, more or less, and a good chunk of the price goes into an endowment to turn their crazy rear end gardens into an extension of the NC State arboretum program that would be open to the public

Wish I could pick up in person—they've got so much cool poo poo I can't grow here (zone 6)—but I can confirm that they ship very nicely. You can find places that sell plants cheaper, obviously, but most of the really cheap places ship bare root which I find is extremely stressful for a lot of plants so I'd rather pay for the soil to come with them.

Are there any other online nurseries you'd recommend in particular? I try to get what I can locally but there's some stuff that just isn't available.


This is the first year I've had my own substantial outdoor garden space which I've been filling in, so I've purchased plants from a few different places that came recommended to see how they did:

Bluestone Perennials sent me some 3.5 inchers that could have easily fit in tubes (and they weren't cheap). Definitely wouldn't buy from them again.

White Flower Farm is (relatively) local but everything they sent me has been in good condition and well rooted (sometimes over rooted though I think that's particular to the massive spike in orders they got this season). I'm not sure if they are producing them or they are sourcing them somewhere, but I got a couple of their Sedum tiles which are the best curated mix I've seen and they've done extremely well for me.

I've been looking at placing an order with Forest Farm as well but I haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

I have plenty more that I know about if you're looking for something specific but those came to mind as interesting nurseries with good recs from plant people that I respect

Thanks for this. I'm not after anything super specific (unless you know someone who specializes in weird yuccas), just poking around and slowly planting my new gardens with interesting plants that can survive winter here (hopefully)—probably going to get myself in trouble just with the ones you already posted.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jun 17, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

im not super into yucca but this was a fun hunt, surprisingly difficult to find anything that wasnt a local retail outfit

High Country has the largest variety of Yuccas I have seen anyone listing so you've done better than I did—Forest Farm who I mentioned earlier has a few varieties I hadn't seen elsewhere so I did end up placing an order with them. They have an interesting selection so I'll definitely report back on how they do when the plants come in.

The only variety I ever see stocked in nurseries around here is filamentosa 'Color Guard' which is pretty but I already have one (it's about to flower, actually).

Wallet fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Jun 17, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Double posting (for shame) but since this thread is better with pictures, here's an :effort: post about my project so far this season since people seem interested in that kind of thing.

I purchased a condex during the fall which has a fairly large shared yard as well as a side yard that's mine. When the plants started coming up the plant situation in the side yard was a bit grim.



The previous owner really liked haphazardly planted unnaturally pruned bushes.



The poor little pine tree in the corner was getting annihilated by the central air unit so I moved him elsewhere.



He's recovering very nicely and actually hosted some baby birds about a month ago.



On the other side of a paved path (to the left of the first picture) was this bizarre arrangement of day lilies and ivy. This is immediately after I removed an old willow stump that someone had hacked down to the ground and then left there. It was putting up new suckers which I transplanted elsewhere.

The rest of the side yard was grass with a tree planted smack dab in the middle of it that would, given the opportunity, eventually turn the entire yard into full shade. I don't have a before picture because it was just lawn.



I moved the tree and put in some new beds. The garden with the bushes from the first picture is against the house below the window I took this picture out of and connects with the new ones in the corner. That's a dogwood I planted in the corner and a few new plants that are scattered in there.



I've started working on the corner garden after getting all of the day lilies and ivy out but clearly there's still some work to do. I should probably space out the shrubs in the corner more before they get too big (hard to see but it's a Physocarpus and a Diervilla).

Most of the work so far has gone into replanting the original bed with the hibiscus that was trying to root into the foundation (at least, I think it's a hibiscus—it's doing well after being moved early in the season but it hasn't flowered just yet). The nondescript bushes were banished to the far corners of the shared yard.



Excuse the perlite. That's the color guard I was talking about being close to flowering.



Of course since I was taking the pictures this morning the only thing actually flowering was these random sedums.



It's got a lot of growing in to do.



I'm kind of in love with this little Euphorbia myrsinites I got from Plant Delights.



And that's about as far as I've gotten.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Jun 17, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Oil of Paris posted:

Wooooow thats going to look extremely nice once all of those start to fill in.

I hope so! Only time will tell.

Oil of Paris posted:

That little contorted thing to the right of the water meter is dope.

I saw that while I was checking out with some bags of soil from Home Depot and thought it was an interesting little plant for $10. They're pretty common, apparently, but I hadn't seen it before—it's corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus 'Spiralis').

Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Jun 18, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

pidan posted:

The snake plant allegedly likes small pots, so I'll just try to get a decorative over-pot and otherwise let it mind its own business.

I haven't found Dracaena (they stopped being Sansevieria in 2017 but a lot of nurseries still sell them that way) to do better in any noticeable way when under-potted. I would be kind of careful with that advice because they can easily get top heavy which is going to make them very easy for your cat to knock over. A lot of people like to plant them in deeper pots both because it looks more proportional with the plant and because it helps keep them from tipping.

pidan posted:

- Should I move the plant from the nursery pot into some other (larger? different?) pot? Or do I just put an overpot over it and do a root check next spring?
Depends on how root bound it is. If you can pull the entire thing right out of the plastic pot and all of the dirt comes with it, it could probably benefit from a larger pot. The general advice is to go the next size up from the pot it is currently in (usually they come in 2 inch increments).

pidan posted:

- How do I choose an overpot? The cat likes to tip the plants over, would a heavy pot prevent that?
This is more a physics question than a planting question, but a heavier pot is going to be harder to tip over.

pidan posted:

- If a (ceramic) pot has a hole in the bottom, does that mean I put the soil directly in the pot, or do I still need a plastic inside pot? If it doesn't have a hole, does it serve as a saucer? I want to avoid getting water on the wood floor.
If a pot has a drainage hole you can plant directly in it and put a saucer under it. Some pots have no drainage holes at all because the people who made them hate living plants (don't plant things in these). Some pots have drainage holes that drain into an integrated (sometimes removable, sometimes not) saucer, which can be fine but if you aren't paying attention the integrated saucer can hide that you have a pool of water sitting under your plant that probably shouldn't be there.

pidan posted:

- Should I water them with a thin stream of water? I have a watering can for outside that spreads the water out a bit, but it's hard to hit the small pots and nothing else.
For the most part it doesn't matter if it comes in a thin stream or if it gets poured out of a drinking glass or whatever. A lot of people seem to like these things, but I personally just use a measuring cup for my larger plants and one of these for small ones.

pidan posted:

- Does the plant need to stand in the same place all the time, or can I move it around?
They aren't really going to care if you're moving them, but you should be careful about quickly changing their conditions drastically. E.g. if you have a plant that's been growing in a relatively dark corner and you want to move it next to a sunny window, you should slowly move it into more light over a few days to avoid burning it before it can adjust.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Jun 21, 2020

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

fat bossy gerbil posted:

It’s under two very tall mature trees that keep the patch quite shady. I’d estimate anything planted there will get an hour or two of direct sunlight every day. I’m thinking clover right now but I’ve heard varying reports on how tolerant it is of shade. Something that covers quickly for minimal cost is preferable.

Are you looking for something that is going to stay super duper short or does it just need to cover the area and be happy under shady trees? There are lots of varieties of creeping ferns (some quite short) that will spread out and should like those conditions. Lily of the valley is also a pretty ground cover that is happy in the shade. What zone are you in?

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Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Wallet posted:

Forest Farm who I mentioned earlier has a few varieties I hadn't seen elsewhere so I did end up placing an order with them. They have an interesting selection so I'll definitely report back on how they do when the plants come in.

The plants came in and Forest Farm did pretty well. Everything was well packed for shipping with plastic bags and wet newspaper to keep some moisture in the pots and a sturdy arrangement of cardboard to keep them from getting squished. For some reason their website seems to be busted at this moment but I had ordered two different Yuccas and three varieties of Euphorbia. One of the Yuccas they didn't have in stock so they actually called me on the phone and asked what I wanted to do with the order which I'll give them credit for.

The plants all arrived in good condition and are well rooted. The two Euphorbias that I ordered as tubes (which is all they had) are a lot more substantial than I was expecting them to be for $9-$10 given what I have received elsewhere. The other Euphorbia and the Yucca I had ordered as gallon plants are a little overpotted, but that at least explains why they were $15 and $19 respectively so no complaints there.

anatomi posted:

Edit2k20: this goat willow keeps bouncing back. We have to kill it because it might collapse the walls between which it grows. Nature, man.


Willows are tenacious as hell. The picture makes it look like you only have a few inches of space between those two walls which seems like it would be a nightmare to try and get one out of.

Wallet fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jun 23, 2020

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