Bloody Hedgehog posted:

That's the one thing holding me back from 3D printing. They've got the quality issue solved with resin printing, but they're still in the dark ages with usability on just about every machine out there. Every machine out there is reviewed as the best thing ever, or the worst. Some people get 0 failed prints, others get nothing but. And then even people with no issues for months will suddenly start seeing issues show up one day, and they disappear again months later. Even the experts in hobby printing will have issues that they have no idea what's causing them.

Even general use is bizarre, in that you have to calibrate every machine out of the box, and every brand has a different way of doing it, and you're probably going to have to recalibrate fairly often. These things should be pre-calibrated out of the box, and rarely need calibration, and if they do they should self-calibrate in seconds. The companies have been so thirsty at chasing the resolution of the prints, that they've really neglected the overall user experience with the various machines.

AndyElusive posted:

How many goons can there possibly be hobbying on container ships at the moment?

Cinara posted:

Paint the eyes first.

Toebone posted:

Those candles!

GreenBuckanneer posted:

If you're squeezing and nothing comes out, you should probably dial it back

Nebalebadingdong posted:

Thanks for the helpful words, ya'll. I haven't painted much lately, but there is a new version of Warmaster rulebook being made by the community and they are asking for photos, so I'm trying my best to help out. The glare is really atrocious on the trees... I think I'm gonna try a new brand of varnish, either Scalecolor75's or Ak's ultra matte varnish and see if that helps


Unrelated rant: I have taken alot of decent pics of individual minis or units with my cell phone. But when it comes to dioramas, it just doesn't cut it. I got a pixel 6 after reading so many gushing reviews about the camera, and guess what? it sucks rear end. pictures are super blurry at the edges. I think my old pixel 4 took better photos. Its got a 50 megapixel camera, but it always downsizes to 12 mega pixels using something called pixel binning which makes for better selfies at midnight or whatever kids are doing these days but doesn't do me a lick of good for miniatures. You can't turn this feature off.

tl;dr i hate photography

Lumpy posted:

You can also get vibrant acrylic ink and just mix it into a bright silver, and boom: any color you want metallics!

Lumpy posted:

I am trying to learn to do NMM and for not knowing what I'm doing, it came out... okay? Some parts work well, others not as much.

Silhouette posted:

crank one out before painting

My Spirit Otter posted:

In the breaking of my tradition of only posting half finished messes, i present 1 bullgryn







Please be very critical.

Toebone posted:

Allow me to introduce my revolutionary new wet blending technique, in which you complete your contrast base coat, hold your mini up to the desk lamp to admire your careful work, then immediately fumble it and drop it into your rinse cup.

The French Army posted:

So here's an idea for the thread. I have come across some extremely detailed plans for 40k scale Imperial Titans. I'm planning to build the Warhound this winter, would anyone like to build along? It would be like a Let's Play but with building Titans. Maybe like a Let's Build. I've built two Warhounds and a Reaver in the past from less detailed plans and these look like they're far more challenging. If anyone is interested I'll post the plans and we can get started on an unstoppable goon legion.

Al-Saqr posted:

Hey guys my Into the dark set is gonna be here in around three weeks, is there any guide for painting all that terrain efficiently? I don’t want to end up running out of miniature paint quickly since shipping all that rear end blasted me cost wise.

Preferably I like the rusted look but if using regular metal is more efficient then fine. I have no problems putting detail where it matters I just want to be effective and efficient.

Thanks!

My Spirit Otter posted:

Got the body and troops of a field ordnance battery painted up. I really love these units. Not too happy with the sergeanta face, please send help.

Lumpy posted:

Critique that I give everyone, especially myself: You need three more things; contrast, contrast, contrast. Try darker shadows with a different tone that either pushes the baes color cooler (i.e. on the red coat dark purple) or to a complementary color (again on the coat, do dark green shadows) For highlights, really go nuts, again shifting the color towards yellow. I always have to force myself to go farther than I think, and I'm always glad I did.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Does it still get to be called a miniature if it takes 5 passes on a 3d printer to print all of it?

Molnija posted:

Beerdeer posted:

If I spray terrain with a gloss paint, then overcoat that with matte, will I have enough tooth to actually do detail painting?

Count Thrashula posted:

Iden Versio and some nameless nerds

Nebalebadingdong posted:

grab bag of random stuff


tree

Lumpy posted:

I use the magnetic sheets you have, and Geisladisk is spot on: the magnets have to be touching the sheet for there to be any solid hold. How I do it is put a sheet down on a table, and put a piece of parchment paper over it, then put my magnets down spread out over it. Then I put a very generous blob of hot glue on top of a magnet, then put a mini down on top of the glue, and press down for a few seconds. The magnet is guaranteed to be in contact with the sheet, and the hot glue will flow all around it when you press down the base, making a very secure bond. You can rough up the underside of the bases as well for bonus hold. I forget which goon gave me this idea a while back, but I thank them every time I magnetize my bases.

Ravus Ursus posted:

I mean don't discount the labor you put in there. You're talking just shy of 12 weeks of a day job. You're talking about something like 5 figures in labor hours at a reasonable rate.

Big Willy Style posted:

Test model for my arbites and some of my recently finished Gallowdark terrain

Muir posted:

Very rogue trader, I love it! If you wanted to use them for something I could imagine proxying them for a Kill Team, say the Elucidan Starstriders.

Bodanarko posted:

Bespoke disaster of multicolored 3D printed monstrosities. Someday I’ll get around to blasting it all with primer at least to tone down the visual noise

Nebalebadingdong posted:

10mm time!

toasty




some dark brown tiles, good for forests



hay field

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Apparently the trick is to paint white first and then do yellow, but I hate it because it adds additional steps that end up being easier with an airbrush

AndyElusive posted:

A second Deathwatch Aggressor done.

This guy is from a little-known BA successor chapter called The Blood Dragons.

Nebalebadingdong posted:

battle mech

Decorus posted:

That's a very scary looking Horus!


I've been working on a Primaris Chaplain for my mixed Ultramarines Primogenitor collection. I can't really call it an army since they haven't seen the battlefield in a very long time.

The model is just amazing, and it's been a joy to paint. It's also my first Primaris marine, the slight upscaling does wonders for my ability to get some detail in. I just sprayed some varnish on the model, it's such a relief to not have to worry about rubbing paint off by accident.



He's still missing a shoulder pad and golden halo. I have to paint them separately, the shoulder pad in particular is impossible to paint if attached. I can see some small mistakes in the picture that I'll have to fix as well, but for once I managed to be tidy all the way through and not mess up earlier parts as I worked on the rest.