Harkano posted:

Duncan has your back -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPqLyaM8a-w

He lists 19 paints at the start of the video, but take a look and see which ones you can get away with doing a mix. for example if he does a base colour, a layer, and then a highlight, you can probably cut this down to 1 or 2 colours by just adding black or white to the base, or mixing 2 colours together.

IPA Regulations posted:

White rattle can primer

richyp posted:

You can probably pull it off in 7 paints and washes (excluding white primer) or 10 if you want some nice highlights and rust

code:

Seraphim Sepia Shade
Agrax Earthshade Shade
Drakenhoff Nightshade Shade

Eshin Grey
Mephiston Red,
Screaming Skull
Leadbelcher

Optional) Rhinox Hide
Optional) Bugmans Glow
Optional) Troll Slayer Orange

Prime everything white.

1) Wash everything Sepia
2) Drybrush Screaming Skull
3) Paint Metal bits in Leadbelcher, Black Bits in Eshin Grey and Red bits in Mephiston Red and Fur in Screaming Skull.
4) Wash everything but the grey in Agrax Earthshade, wash the grey in Drakenhof

Bonus points:
5) Paint edges of red bits in Bugmans Glow
6) Stab the metal bits with Rhinox Hide for some dark rust
7) Stab the inside bits of the Rhinox Hide with a small bit of orange (wipe most of it off the brush first)


Might've been me, I painted a Death Army last month and posted the Sepia over white skeleton.



Step 1) Prime White
Step 2) Wash Sepia
That's all the above guy was.

Optional Step 3) Drybrush Screaming Skull (I did that on the unit afterwards)



Works on all bone stuff



And for good measure here's December dot jpeg again

long-rear end nips Diane posted:

They make a zandri dust spray primer but it’s very expensive. https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Basecoat-Spray-Zandri-Dust

IPA Regulations posted:

I've always just bought the citadel sprays so can't really help there. I know they are probably overpriced (as everything GW is usually) but they work well.

richyp posted:

Thanks.

If you're after a desaturated purple, I'd swap Mephiston for Xereus Purple, and mix in some of the Eschin grey to taste. Then wash it with the Blue Drakenhoff Nightshade wash and highlight with either the Grey, for a desaturated look, or the Purple for a vibrant one.

The purple cloth on this dude I painted last week, uses Xereus as the base, but the shade in the darkest recesses is close to what you're after and is pretty much grey+purple washed blue.

richyp posted:

Depends how much you want to spend.
1) Agrax over white will give you a light fur colour, you can continue washing it with Agrax to darken it, or you could get something like a Khaki Colour and do the same

2) Corax White spray is what I used for the Skeletons. If you want to paint other things, then Primer colour is a whole other discussion as there are people who swear by black and building the colour up, people who swear by white and shading the colours down and then there's people who love grey (me included) where you can shade up and down evenly. Though I do use all three depending on the desired effect.

3) Agrax and Sepia over Leadbelcher will give you a bronze effect but nothing near an actual bronze colour. If it's your first set of paints, I'd get Retributor Gold as it covers great and washed with shades can pull double duty as bronze.

If you're really interested in painting stuff I'd maybe add a couple more basic colours, a good medium blue (Macragge maybe) a yellow (Flash Gitz) and a medium green (Skarsnik) so you have all angles covered if you want to mix other colours.

I did this a while ago which lists some of my favourite/useful paints with a new painter in mind. http://www.goonhammer.com/subdomains/forums/painting-by-numbers-recommended-paints/

Booley posted:

You should try to find a non-GW retailer. I'm not sure who's in Canada or I'd give you a specific suggestion. Typically they have a 15% discount.

IPA Regulations posted:

If you're on a budget/not sure if you want to get back in to the hobby I have no idea why you'd be buying a branded waterpot instead of just using a washed out glass jar or old mug or something, and the same goes for paintbrushes. GW might make good paints that are worth the markup but afaik this doesn't extend to their brushes - they are overpriced for what they are. There are very good sets available for comparatively nothing on Amazon.

It's possible I've just built up an extreme aversion to handing GW any more money than is absolutely necessary over my formative years of spending all my fuckin money on it but worth thinking about imo

I mean you have like 35 dollars there for 4 brushes. For the same price you could get a very nice 12 brush set from a small name retailer and still have cash to spare.

Thanqol posted:

Prime white, basecoat Fire Dragon Bright. If you need to prime a different colour basecoat Jokero Orange and layer up to FD.

Check out the citadel paint app for basic questions like this, it's really good for 'what paints do I buy'.

BoneMonkey posted:

Count_Brass posted:

Finished these guys off over the weekend.



I managed to get some really nice soft shades and highlights onto the skitarii using glazes:

Eifert Posting posted:

I would do blue for two reasons:

Good complimentary color
Doesn't need other shades for highlighting, can just mix white.

With green you really need yellow for nice looking highlights, that would be my second choice.

Professor Shark posted:

Would these top knots fit MkIII/IV/V Space Marines?

It says that they are designed for 32mm

inscrutable horse posted:

I usually do mine balthasar gold > nuln oil > runefang steel > necron compound; gives them a brass-like look that I like. if I want them to look antique, I then add a thin layer of nihilakh oxide.

e: Balthasar gold, not brass scorpion D:
e2: I r dumb, and not to be trusted

Duct Tape posted:

Tried out GreenStuffWorld's Temple rolling pin last night. Really like how this works, so it's going to be my basing scheme for Space Marines/Guard, if I ever get around to making one of those armies. The only thing I don't like is that you can see the machine tooling on all the raised areas, but those should be easy to smooth over before it cures.

Sab669 posted:

Is there any reason I shouldn't prime my minis with them on the GW painting handle? I can't imagine it would harm it, but at the same time I don't want to have to buy another one.


unrelated - Took a bit of a break from painting the last 2 weeks or so, but now I'm running the risk of not having all my poo poo painted for my next slow grow league, so... Work in progress Knight Incantor! Feels good to paint again

MMD3 posted:

I'm planning to start making some ledges/shelves for displaying records in heavy rotation on my walls, is there any concern with storing vinyl at a slight angle like this if it is in the sleeve? Like if I didn't change out what was on the wall more than once every 3 to 6 months would that be damaging or should I be fine?

https://www.etsy.com/listing/458571612/vinyl-record-ledge-record-shelf-vinyl

TheBigAristotle posted:

I'm gonna paint Odo's bucket tonight. What would be a good base for gold among the primers that I have? Black, white, gray, averland sunset

Bucket:

JBP posted:

Fake James posted:

What brand/color is that? Looks like it would be a good highlight color for my Death Guard.