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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Verman posted:

About a month of prep work and it's finally time to paint. . . .

Home Zone: Whatever the price next time, it's worth it for someone else to do it

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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

canyoneer posted:

Ehh it's not the end of the world. It's how all dishwashers were wired ~30 years ago and not forbidden by current code. Or in other words


And look how allowing older code worked out for THAT project :colbert:

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

What kind of "debris" are we talking here?

If it's oil/grease residue that's one thing, but the larger problem might be the amount of spatter you're getting if it's noticeable on the walls. That is like a tools or technique problem.

If spatter is absolutely unavoidable the answer is to clean it as soon as it happens (i.e. immediately after you finish cooking, before you eat) and not let it harden in place.

The dripping down the side of the stove also raises questions. I could see a few specks of something getting down there if you accidentally let a thick sauce come to a boil or something and a drop lands just right, but that shouldn't be enough to raise serious concerns about cleanliness.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Yeah, you need to pull the stove out to do that cleaning.

As for the spatter, sounds like you're probably cooking on too much heat in general. Most things that are going to fling bits of sauce if they get too hot don't want to be on a high enough temp to do that in the first place.

Oil and grease, though, that's easy: get some basic grease cleaner, put it in a spray bottle, and wash that stuff off periodically. In our last apartment we had just an awful gally kitchen with a loving garbage hood that meant using even tiny amounts of cooking oil would lead to a grimy coating on everything over time. Paper towels and cleaner every so often, it's just part of living in that kind of crappy cooking space.

My recommendation is the ZEP All-Purpose. Big, green bottle. I think we dilute it 3:1in a cheap Target spray bottle.

edit: and I doubt your landlord will be thrilled with peel-and-stick backsplash stuff either. You're running the risk of taking off whatever paint/paper/etc is back there when you try to un-stick it. It's not meant to be a temporary product.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Hasn’t hurt the lovely wooden cabinets in my kitchen but :shrug:

Usual recommendation is to test it in an inconspicuous area.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Tiny Timbs posted:

Bleaching it should work. Every once in a while I just wash mine hot with the whites and it gets the pink stuff out just fine but it can’t hurt to try bleach. I suppose long term that might degrade the plastic.

If it does it takes forever. I've got a shower liner that's seen at least 5 years of getting clorox soaks maybe every three or four months.

Nothing fancy, I just throw it in a 5 gallon bucket, dump a bunch of bleach in there, fill with water, and leave it over night. Rinse with the hose when done.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

H110Hawk posted:

Perfumed cleaning products should be illegal. Nothing better than having people's lovely perfumed garbage trigger your asthma. If your clothes are clean they won't smell at all.

I get a grim chuckle out of all the laundry detergent ads I see that bemoan how your clothes don't smell clean after you take them out of the wash with your current, crappy detergent. And then go on to say how the clothes will keep smelling clean for weeks on end!

Convincing people that "clean" smells like heavy perfume was a loving stroke of genius move. An evil one, but still genius.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

H110Hawk posted:



I have to re-wash clothes where people use scented detergents, it's a pain in the butt when traveling or using a service.


This is me when I visit my in-laws. If any of my stuff ends up getting washed over there it needs a re-wash at home.


Inner Light posted:

I'm a drat weirdo that like my clothes smelling a little perfumey when I take them out of the wash. I think my default human smell is usually neutral/fine even when I'm freshly showered, so why not add a subtle scent? Makes it easier to tell if a shirt needs to be thrown in the wash by sniffing too.

I totally see the appeal of the free and clear stuff, but for myself I choose normal delicious Tide pods.

I'm fine with smells on things, but that's what cologne/perfume are for.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

actionjackson posted:

what do you mean

She wants you to enjoy discounted video games.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

actionjackson posted:

lol the wayfair dunking

i'm glad someone gave an estimate of how long ikea and wayfair stuff is expected to last (five years)

https://archive.ph/qjU4P



I mean, they're not wrong. Cheap furniture is, well, cheap and falls apart. God knows I've seen many sub-ikea grade bookshelves (think the poo poo you buy at target) crumble into sawdust and tears under the load of a grad student's library. But those cost anywhere from a quarter to a tenth of what an actual nice bookshelf costs, which is why there's a market. Sam Vimes, boots, etc.

edit: on a personal note, if you're a broke student and truly give no fucks about aesthetics Home Depot is your friend. Cinder blocks are about $3 each and 1x4's are pretty inexpensive. Ugly as gently caress but it will get the job done and lasts effectively forever, at least until you get a fiancee who cares enough to make you get rid of them. At least it was my solution after yet another lovely bookshelf fell into tatters.



But goddamn the people in that article saying poo poo like this:

quote:

“I relate to fast furniture like I do to fast food,” Ms. McDonagh said. “It’s empty of culture, and it’s not carrying any history with it.”

need to gently caress right off. No poo poo, low priced crap churned out to meet the demands of the cash-strapped doesn't prioritize whatever you think makes something carry culture and history. A broke rear end student buying a $30 bookshelf for their slumlord hovel is barely concerned with the color, much less making a statement about culture. News flash: the minimum age earning person scarfing a McDonald's hamburger before their next shift also doesn't give a gently caress about the culinary merits of the Big Mac, they just want some fast calories and a full belly.

Cyrano4747 fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Oct 31, 2022

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

VelociBacon posted:

I'm 6'2 ~210lbs and until recently I've only ever had Ikea furniture and beds and everything else. I've never had anything fail or break, except for once when I stupidly stood on a 2x2" wooden endpiece of a bed trying to reach a ceiling light. I bought a big expensive sectional this year and it's not something Ikea even offers, but if they did I bet it would last also. Taking stuff apart and putting it back together of course weakens the structure of something and these fast furniture pieces are probably disassembled more than other furniture, which I feel contributes to their reputation as shorter-living.

Real furniture that is meant to be disassembled holds up to it just fine. My wife got a bedroom set from her parents when she graduated college over 20 years ago. That's the bed that came with when we moved in together (my bachelor setup of bare assed mattress directly on the floor was relocated to a curb) and we're still using it 8 moves later. It's got plenty of dings and scuff marks, but the places where the frame and the headboard etc. tie into each other are all fine.

Meanwhile, yeah, disassemble a flat-pack desk at your own peril.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Honestly ikea's solid wood furniture is some of their worst in my experience. I'm pretty sure they're using sub-home depot grade pine and it just comes apart, usually at the joints in my experience. I had to quickly furnish an apartment in Berlin twelve years ago and the pine chair I got from them failed catastrophically right before I left. Rear right leg just came right off, dumped my rear end on the floor. They always end up feeling loose after a few months too.

edit: all of this as of ~5 years ago, maybe they've upped their wood game since then.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

What I'd love to see is Ikea going all in on plastic. I'm imagining an ikea chair kit but instead of lovely pine it's trex, like you'd use on a deck. I imagine they could make something like that that would survive the gooniest of asses.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

actionjackson posted:

I've heard pine is pretty much the lowest quality wood, that and rubberwood. it definitely keeps the price down

Not all pine. My understanding is that the crap we see today is all fast-growth stuff where they're trying to minimize the turn-around between planting and harvesting, which leads to lovely wood that's not dense enough.

Actual hardwood pine is supposed to be great, but good luck finding any of that unless you're cutting in a national forest or have a time machine dialed in for the 1940s.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

can someone who is good at buildings explain why post-tensioned slabs are necessary in (I gather) areas with lovely soil, and why one might decide to do it's best impression of a warner brothers cartoon bedspring?

I gather from looking at this and reading between the lines that post-tensioned slabs are more rigid and resist cracking/buckling if you have heave-prone soil, which would normally cause foundation damage. Do I have that right? So what causes one to just poop a rod? Poorly constructed?

What's the mitigation look like for something like this?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Lazy_Liberal posted:

i gotta hear the doorbell version of "mazel tov"

Seriously, record and post all of those.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

VelociBacon posted:

It's marketing material gone right because I paid 100k over asking. I'm looking at it on my 4k monitor so I didn't realize - sorry. I'll take a photo now.

e: I'll timg it if that's helpful. Appreciate your eyes on it



Lmao

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Any suggestions for a chest freezer? Zero frills needed it just needs to keep poo poo frozen. Think 15-20 cu ft but size is negotiable. Budget is ~1000ish, lower better, higher potentially OK if a $1.5k one will save my marriage and put my unborn children through med school and the $800 one will give me a brain tumor.

Mostly I just need an idea what brands to stay away from.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

:tipshat:

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Is it just me, or do other parts of the roof besides the obvious tumor look wavy too? Something about the way the shingles sit doesn't look right, but I'm an idiot and don't really have the vocab to describe what it is I think I'm seeing.

Look directly straight down from the tumor and there's a good patch of what I think I'm seeing.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Just shingles or are we counting other roofing materials as well?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Fellatio del Toro posted:

well gently caress. we've been trying to get hummingbirds to show up to our feeders since last year. a few days ago a little male and female couple showed up and have been hanging around

today the male flew into one of our windows and died :smith:

any recommendations on least obtrusive way to keep this from happening again?

Do something to make the windows not look like a big clear space they can fly through. They sell stickers specifically to help birds avoid them but frankly they’re ugly as gently caress. Plants hanging down in front of the window helps, curtains can too.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Jenkl posted:

Does anything actually work with respect to getting mosquitos to gently caress off?

The #1 thing you can do is make sure they don't have easy breeding grounds on your property, which means standing water. If you've got anything that collects water after a rain and stays filled for a few days that's where your mosquitoes are coming from. Yes, you should tip the bird bath every other day or so and re-fill it.

Obviously this isn't going to work if your property backs up to a swamp, but it's amazing how many people have a few small things kicking around their property creating small pools and puddles. The classic example is tire swings, but I've also seen the drip trays on outdoor planters be lousy with mosquito larvae. Downspout extensions that don't run down-hill all the way and collect water in a low spot are another good one, as are those plastic spatter catchers people put under their down spouts. Pretty much anything involved with catching and disposing of water needs at least a glance, and a solid once-over of everything else to make sure there isn't an ancient solo cup under a bush or something being a mosquito nursery.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Motronic posted:

May have been minimally to code for its time, it wouldn't be at all today most likely (depends on where you live). Even if it was up to code for today it would still need to be torn down to do what you're talking about.

You simply can't turn a deck into a room and its cheaper, easier and will provide vastly superior results to start from a clean slate.

In a similar vein this got posted over in TFR for other reasons:

bloody ghost titty posted:

I’m new here (here is guns, my account can almost drive) - how gun stoopid do y’all think this fellow is https://www.businessinsider.com/gra...h-moody-road-14

Setting aside the prepper fantasy stuff and the punisher skull decor (I mean, in here - TFR didn't, that poo poo is cringy as gently caress), holy poo poo I can not imagine that grain silos convert into housing well, no matter how much internal structure you build or insulation you install.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Shifty Pony posted:

IIRC the asbestos used in HVAC was typically paperboard based insulation on the outside of the steel/tin ducts.

So the good news is that it isn't directly in the air flow path. The very bad news is that unlike cement-based asbestos products the insulation paper is decades old, likely extremely brittle, and possibly shedding asbestos dust due to the normal vibrations and thermal cycling of the ducts. So the passages the ducts go through are almost certainly contaminated.

Definitely time to chat with a pro before even considering moving forward.

Or to put it another way:

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Epitope posted:

Most people don't fully realize the professionals they need to use are literally con men

:raise: are you saying that asbestos remediation people are con men?

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.


lol

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

biceps crimes posted:

no, she thinks her fatigue and arthritis could be being exacerbated by an allergy to toxic mold in the wall cavity from the leak because her friend was told that by her naturopath

I guess I'm just double checking that my actions sound sane and that it's not negligent to fix the water source and leave it at that. I'm not going to tear up her closet walls looking for something, and I want to discourage her from paying scammers that want to feed on her fears.

If it's just that one little spot, I wouldn't worry about it.

That said, you're dealing with a scared elderly person who is listening to someone they trust (her friend) so it might be worth your while to do a little theater. Cut open the wall near the leak, poke around to show that there's nothing in there but cobwebs and dust, basically just give her some peace of mind. It'll be a mild pain in the rear end patching the dry wall and re-painting, but it could be the quickest way to demonstrate that she's safe.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

MrYenko posted:

:raise:

Ya it’s this.

This is why cutting open the wall to demonstrate she's fine is likely the way to go.

Basically she's got a friend go was taken by these people, and the friend is going to be 110% convinced that what she did was necessary for her health. This well meaning friend has a personal experience that she's going to talk up, and this can carry a LOT of weight with people. Doubly so elderly people, in my experience.

So on the one hand you can just try to argue with her, which means trying to explain all this stuff and ultimately boils down to asking her to believe that her friend is gullible and wasted tens of thousands of dollars.

Or you can say you take her concerns seriously, offer to spend part of your weekend checking it out for her, and then demonstrate that she's safe. That lets everyone involved paper over the friend's experience as totally justified and not a waste of money at all, while still avoiding turning grandma's home into a construction zone while remediation people pull it down to the studs. All for the cost of some dry wall, a little mud and tape, some paint, and an annoying saturday of cutting and then patching.

edit: pull up some pictures of actual bad mold problems when the wall's open to show her what it looks like. "Oh yeah this spot here is just some old staining, that's nothing, see here this is what it looks like when the whole inside of your wall is fungal hell."

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Just take the tree down imo. Sucks but plant something else far enough over that it’s not going to be a problem.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

mutata posted:

Most pegboard at big box stores is very thin. The proper stuff is online only. You want at least a full 1/4 inch thickness.

You can make the poo poo stuff work by putting plywood behind it with a poo poo-ton of stand offs. I mean at that point you might as well just order the real thing, but it's a reasonable fix if you're just talking a few square feet for an odd corner and you've got the crap sitting around to do it.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

If the hangers are going to be there basically permanently just epoxy the fuckers in.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Blowjob Overtime posted:

Some part of my brain protests about making something permanent on a board meant to be changeable, but that would allow more time for the actual projects using the tools....

It’s meant to be customizable, big difference.

The idea is that you can set it up exactly like how you need it, not that you are rearranging your garage mis en place every month.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

H110Hawk posted:

Or just cut the hook off and abandon it, unless it blocks your use of a hole you need.

And if it does drill out the hole.

I'm willing to bet all the tools to fix this problem are conveniently located on or near the board in question, lol.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Vim Fuego posted:

Pegboarding is the bikeshedding of the workshop

I'm pretty sure a pegboard is what's going on under your av.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

StormDrain posted:

Kind of the same. I just see them as a mess rather than organized versus having them behind a closed drawer. Even if in that drawer is just a pile of pliers that sometimes keep them from being opened.

My drawers are a white hot mess. I might have to knock some sanding dust off of a wrench if I reach for it on the board, but at least I have some loving idea where the thing is.

edit: like, pliers next to random nails next to mystery meat pocket knives and random blobs of steel wool and probably a screwdriver or five. Just a disorganized mess of whatever I needed to get off my bench and swept into whatever random drawer was nearest.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Tiny Timbs posted:

My Home Depot only has the metal pegboards and they loving suck. All the hooks just fall out and the clips don't work for most of the types. I have a wooden one in the shed that came with the house and it works great. Where do you go to get "the real thing"?

I got mine at HD a few years back, but it wasn't an item they stocked at the store. Ordered it online delivered to the store.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I’ve found the least bad way to communicate with permitting people is via email so you have whatever they say in writing, with time stamps to match. What they say in writing isn’t actually binding, and just because low level minion X said Y when Y is wrong doesn’t mean you get to do Y, but I’ve found it will at least get you a little sympathy from the person who knows that Y is wrong. I think they get a lot of people calling and saying ‘but that other person I talked to (they never talked to them) said my death trap on my neighbor’s property would be fine’ and having receipts shows you actually are trying to do the process right.

And if it become a total boondoggle, you have something to show your city councilor or w/e and sometimes that can help get things done. Especially if you can say ‘look at it takes them a week to respond to my emails and that’s with 3 follow up emails’

100% this, get everything in writing at every step of the way. You don't want to be a massive prick about it, but being able to say "well I was told on 4/14/23 by <person> (cc'd on this email) that we only needed X, Y, and Z - was this incorrect? I can have A, B, C to you by COB Friday, but I would like some clarification on what the requirements are" can go a looooong loving way to making people realize that you at least have the potential to be a pain in the rear end and to try and do things right the first time.

And, worst case scenario, you've got a bucket of poo poo to dump on a supervisor or councilman's desk if it really is a them problem.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Is that a new install a house you're looking at buying?

edit: also does it work properly?

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Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Tremors posted:

Oh this is a new install. I'm the poster that had a tree fall on their garage last June. I'll need to do an effort post on the journey at some point but long story short, they're still not done with the project. It opens and closes but it's loud and clunks.

Maybe others will disagree, but if it works fine I might just live with it.

Major "but" there is if it's so loving obvious that it looks crooked without the laser I'm pitching a fit and telling them to re-do it because doors aren't supposed to have a visible lean. But if it looks basically OK without that visual aid and it's mechanically functional? I'd probably just shrug and move on, especially if I was in the middle of a major project.

I certainly wouldn't call back whatever company installed it, though.

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