Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

peanut posted:

This is the final floorplan, but you can still criticize it. Our jewels and cash will be in my desk in the master bedroom.

Edit: the front door is missing and the kitchen door is cutoff, whatever. Sliding doors are arrows.



You have your washing machine in the bathroom?

Overall the design is not ideal from my point of view - you have lots of space, but the layout is odd.

- main bathroom is downstairs, odd in itself. It's also huge, but half the space looks empty?
- separate toilet stall. Is there a sink in there?
- no separate laundry room, even though you have loads of space.
- man cave is off the master bedroom? Maybe you have different uses in mind to me, but this seems far from ideal, if only due to keeping your wife awake.
- what's all the storage off the 2nd bedroom for? Seems excessive - but I guess you might not have a basement/attic/garage.
- The lounge layout seems odd, as does only one 2-seater sofa in such a large space.

Also, what are the big grey things in the middle of the lounge / library?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

kid sinister posted:

Isn't that exactly what radiant floor heating is?

I thought water based radiant is usually pipes running in slots in special foam blocks, over the sub-floor, with a radiant barrier on the bottom to prevent the heat leaking down.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Hambilderberglar posted:

Do wallpaper steamers not exist in the united states? I helped my friend remove the wallpaper from his old-people-inhabited house and we rented a steamer for €20, filled it with water and the whole thing came off like soft butter. Fill the tiny air holes in the underlying concrete and the surface was good to go. No tearing, no leftovers, no glue.

Underlying concrete? Not sure where you live , but I think it's very unusual to have concrete anywhere in the walls in a house in the UK or USA.

Plasterboard, plaster or drywall over wood frame or brick/blocks is usual.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Zero VGS posted:

That's literally my entire loving house apparently... guess they didn't have drywall in 1910.

Oh, the poor WiFi signal...

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Southern Heel posted:

Home inspection is a thing, and I paid top dollar - however they explicitly do not cover electrical work (in the UK) other than a visual inspection of sockets. Anything more requires a separate specialist, so I spoke to a number of firms all within the area and they advised they would be able to perform an ECR (electrical condition report) which is exactly the same process (visual only), and any further assessment would require floorboards to be pulled/etc. Seems backwards as all hell to me, but we went into negotiations budgeting for the worst (i.e. total rewire) so it's not all bad.

The only thing that's worthwhile (unless there's something suspicious / broken going in) is taking a look at the breaker panel & electricity meter. If they're really old 1950s stuff, it's a bad sign.

If they've got a recent digital meter & a modern, clean looking panel it's a sign that a competent electrician has been there in the past decade.

I paid 0 GBP for my inspection (from a master builder friend of my partners family), and I'd trust his experience far more than any of the inspectors.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

ElCondemn posted:

Agreed, I upgraded to a tankless water heater and it’s one of the best upgrades I’ve ever made. However, even though there were rebates and tax deductions it hasn’t paid for itself yet, but totally worth it.

It's also worth thinking about timing this work with anything else major that might need doing to the house. Walls and floors coming up is a good / the only time to do various things you might be planning, and much better to do them all in one shot if it's manageable.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Jaded Burnout posted:

Is there enough space to cut them? Depending on exactly how the door fits I don't think you'd be able to take it out even if you removed the hinges; mine at least have metal latches on the hinge side which are passive, they just slot into holders when the door closes, but mean you have to swing the door open, you can't pull it out laterally.

Also, the way those things work (as I'm sure you know by this point) is some travelling metal bars pushed and pulled by the gearbox to activate the hooks and latches, so if the gearbox is seized and/or deadlocked, if you could cut those bars between the hooks and the gearbox you'd be able to push them manually and at least disengage the top and bottom hooks, then maybe force or cut the main latch and bolt.

I'm guessing you've already sprayed the gearbox full of WD40?

Tomarse posted:

I am trying to sort out a problem with a UPVC door in a conservatory with a single double glazed glass unit it. It looks like this:


Alternative: Kick your conservatory down and take it to the dump.

I can’t stand the things, and in British weather they always seem freezing cold or like being in a greenhouse.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Jaded Burnout posted:

Let's talk paint.

I did a test painting of a room a while ago, 1 layer Leyland latex-based primer, 2 layers Dulux silk.

It needs sanding back and repainting anyway, but an issue I have is that the finish has a rubbery characteristic that I don't like. You can feel it as a bit of give and resistance when you run your nails over it, and peeling a small amount away results in a slightly plasticy stretch in the paint.

Is this a normal effect of any gloss or part-gloss paint? Is it an issue of application? I thought it might be the latex undercoat but that was fairly thin and is staying on the wall when I peel away paint.

You painted the walls of a room with glossy paint?

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

TheMightyHandful posted:

Do other places apart from America use shingles. Are they the imperial measurement system of roofing?

We use them in the UK. On sheds. Don’t think I’ve ever seen them on a house, just slate or tiles.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

peanut posted:

Second house for your descendants, or ancestors. Vegetable garden (or sunflower field!) Pumpkin patch!!

Where I live in the UK, the done thing is apparently to get planning permission for 2 or 3 more houses on a plot that size, build them, and sell them. Don’t do that though it’s lovely.

I’d put in a nice wood cabin at the other end of the garden, maybe with a Sauna hut too

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

beep-beep car is go posted:

I've found that quite a few Europeans don't realize what a variation in temperatures the US gets even in the same region over a year. In my area (northeast) the summers can be up in the 90s F (30s C) and the winters can get down to below 0f (-17 C) and that's not counting the highs and lows I've seen in my area. There have been over 100F (38C) for highs and I've seen -20F (-29C) for lows. That doesn't even begin to account for humidity. Summers in the northeast are humid.

I get it. I’ve long understood that 90% of the country is basically unliveable without air con and/or serious infrastructure to deal with snow and ice.

Unfortunately the insistence on people living in those places means that you’re burning 5-10x the amount of energy per household compared to Europeans.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Hubis posted:

Eh I was half joking. You did good.

Tamping down soil like you would prepping for pavers is exactly what you don't want to do -- freshly spread soil is as ideally non-compacted as it gets, and so going through and packing it down is kind of a silly "own goal" in the war against soil compaction.

I might’ve thrown in a bit of sand to help drainage in that spot.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

WithoutTheFezOn posted:

Ivy's fine.

Just plant some strawberries and dill, too.

Ivy is not fine, you will full of regret and considering a flamethrower to end it in a few years.

I bought a house a couple of months ago and spent a week removing it from 1/2 of the front face.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

surf rock posted:

Considering another round of home improvement projects for the next year or two. Here's what I'm interested in deciding:

1.) Should I replace the vertical blinds in front of my living room's sliding door? If so, with what? The blinds remind me of apartment life, but I don't know what the classy thing to do with a sliding door would be.

Kill them with fire.

Consider if you really need a covering on that window, it doesn’t look like you’re overlooked much.

Otherwise curtains would work fine.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Friend posted:

Huh? The tiny town in oklahoma where my grandmother lives used to have really soft water and the only reason I know they've started to fix it is because I don't have to spend ages trying to rinse off the slimy "there is still soap on me" feeling. What does hard water do?

It makes soap about 1/5 to 1/10 as effective, so there’s a lot less to rinse off.

Hard water does taste better, but having moved to an area with reasonably soft water recently, I’m loving having a kettle with no limescale in it, and using way less soap for anything.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Nevets posted:

That is total overkill. All you need is a few 2 by's attached with Simpson ties. Put one every 16 in between the joists, do your wiring, and then the fill the cavity with expanding foam and cover the top with 2 layers of plywood.

What’s the expanding foam for?

Seems like a nightmare for maintenance, and insulation is taken care of in the attic.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

His Divine Shadow posted:

I've not even known of the concept of a recirculating vent until a few years ago.

It is 1000% pointless and nonsensical, I guess they’re just designed as a con, to trick people into thinking they have a real vent. Or is there some use case where they’re not worse than nothing?

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Fallom posted:

Not sure what the question is. They’re flush mount lights with integrated LEDs you can’t change. That’s it.

Can you post a picture of what you’re taking about?

In what way are they better than recessed can lights? Other than not having to recess them.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

His Divine Shadow posted:

So that means even smoke detectors like ours which use the mains instead of batteries, only last 10 years?

Probably. There are different types of detectors, but they’ll likely all have an expiry date somewhere.

Radioactive source - the most sensitive for tiny particles generated during smouldering.
Optical - for bigger smoke particles.
Heat - for actual fire.

Often these are combined in the same device.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

HycoCam posted:

Think having grocery bags in your hand and need to unlock the door. Going with option #2 lets you get inside without lots of hassle. Swapping hinges on an inside/existing door could be more work than you'd want to do.

To mitigate the bugs--maybe add a brighter light farther away? Or lay waste to the area. I use 1.5oz of SuspendSC to a gallon of water in a dedicated sprayer every 30 to 45 days depending on the rain to keep bugs and spiders away from our outdoor living spaces. Spray the area--webs and all, wait a few days, then sweep away the webs/bug debris, apply one more time, and in a month or so when webs start to show up--bust out the sprayer.

Motronic is the guy whose advice on bugs is going to be way better than mine. My sample size is pretty small. :)


Our area has leeches and ticks---I'll take a few dozen leeches on me over a tick. Hate ticks.

For fleas and ticks and ants I use diatomaceous earth and good ol' 20 Mule Team Borax spread around the yard and perimeter of the house. On the inside we use Borax in the rugs, dog beds, and sometimes on the animals themselves. And when the sugar ants show up in the warmer months--Terro ant bait, which is basically borax and corn syrup. We live in a wicked area for ticks. Dogs without treatment that run through the woods for an afternoon will come back with thousands of deer ticks. (Like you treat them and can sweep up enough pin head sized dead ticks to hold in two hands!)

Where in the USA is this? I think that’d make me consider moving to somewhere good and cold.

Bless the glorious dampness of the UK.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Jaded Burnout posted:

Does anyone have thoughts on garden fencing? The main goal is to be fairly tall and opaque, but other than that I'm open to ideas. The obvious choices are generic wood panels or hedges.

I like beech hedges a lot, and they grow slowly enough that they don’t take constant maintenance. But take a while to get to the height you want. Keeping the brown leaves all winter is nice.

For evergreens, Laurel or Box or similar is a much quicker growing hedge for privacy, but will be massive quickly (0.5m/year). Yew is also really nice, but a bit slower to grow.

Imo slower growing is better if you plan to live there for the long term, and from following your build thread I’m sure you do.

By far the cheapest and easiest way of buying lots of (deciduous) hedge plants is to get them with bare roots in winter when they’re dormant. They’re much easier to transport and so laughably cheaper - like a couple of quid each, but need to be ordered far in advance.

This is a decent place to buy, and has lots of information on each hedge type, planting etc.
https://www.ashridgetrees.co.uk/hedging/beech-hedge-plants

For fences, the concrete posts with a slot are clearly the best from all practical points of view, if a bit ugly.

The fence panels I like are the slightly modern looking double slatted style, in pressure treated *something*.

Or if you’re rich, the cedar version looks even better.

Don’t go too high until you see how sexy your neighbours are JB.

p.s.
Also, good luck negotiating with the neighbours of you want the same fence on both sides.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Jaded Burnout posted:

classier or novel solutions.

Well, a nice brick wall. Or even a stone wall if you have a stonemason somewhere nearby.

Even more avant garde option: a gabion wall comprised of a metal cage filled with loose stone.



Looks different, modern and is very cost effective and easy to DIY. I’m looking for some excuse to use one in my place, but waiting a little before I get to landscaping.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

The Dave posted:

Reminds me of cheap rail station landscaping, not sure I would ever call it modern.

Yeah, it’s been used for retaining walls for ages. Can look awful with the wrong stones, but can look good with the right ones, in the right setting.

It’s more modern than bricks and mortar at least.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

cakesmith handyman posted:

They're called gravel boards and they've been around longer than I have :psyduck:

I thought he meant something different, but it does just look like that from the link.

All fences should have a gravel board (wood normally though) under the panel to protect it, and better hold soil.

Sirotan posted:

Neighbor's yards:


Can’t say I see the point of having a decent sized garden if it’s just going to be turf. A few trees would go a long way.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

tater_salad posted:

sup covid home repair buddy...

HVAC guy is here getting rid of the 62 year old furnace form the house I just bought. Have had the furnace off since day 1 of ownership since it's got no safety for the pilot so if it's out it'll just pump gas into the house for ? days until I came back to drop off more boxes. It's exciting to finally get something moving so I can move in at some point!!

I don’t understand how people live in these houses before they’re sold. Ignorance, or old age death wish, or...?

I bought a Victorian terrace in the UK last year, which cane with two gas fires, both with “condemned” stickers and slight singe-marks around them.

But both still connected to the mains gas supply.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Spring Heeled Jack posted:

Just put the lids in the drawer that’s built into your oven??

Half of people: “wow, that was a drawer this entire time?!”

The other half of people: “I just pulled some trim off the front of my oven cabinet mount.”

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Steve French posted:

I love living in California where all the entitled boomers think their property taxes are super high despite having owned their houses for decades and paying a fraction of what I do. And what I pay is still less as a percentage of my property value than people in most states pay. Blows my mind.

The concept of only ever updating property taxes when a house is sold is insane.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Jaded Burnout posted:

You could also argue, debatably, that the value of a home is not truly known until it's sold, on account of that's how value works.

You can definitely estimate values but it's a valid argument nonetheless.

Estimates are fine, as long as the burden of paying for all public services is not placed in those least equipped to pay them then things might work out OK.


So it’s totally fair for a young person buying their first small flat/apartment and living alone to pay more property taxes than a millionaire boomer, just because they’ve lived there a long time? OK.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Jaded Burnout posted:

Buses are a thing unto themselves, but the wealthy areas definitely get better trains and stations.

It quickly becomes a self fulfilling prophesy too - in part they’re wealthy because richer people move there because of the good public transport too.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

socketwrencher posted:

This video is so inspiring I had to share it- it's about a couple who built an off-grid compound in a CA redwood forest 50 years ago.

I'm trying to figure out how the parabolic roof was framed:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qcsWajivnI

Not framed at all he says. But how did they bend it in the wilderness with nothing? That’s a great house

I don’t really buy all they stuff he’s saying about doing it all themselves.

He walked back the “5 days” claim for the original hut.

And for the main house: Yes I’m sure you installed massive pieces of glass that need a special vehicle to transport “on your own” in the wilderness...

Yes I’m sure you had no money, but could afford to buy hundreds of acres and live there with no other income.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

The Wonder Weapon posted:

A landscaping service just left after evaluating my property, and while I don't have a quote yet, I'm anticipating it's going to land between $4,000 and $6,000. That's a chunk of change that I'm not eager to spend, especially when it's all demo work - ripping up weeds, assorted bushes, random plants, and turning it all into seeded topsoil. It's gotta be possible to do this sort of thing DIY, since other people have multiple acres they keep under control.

Below are a few pictures of the type of overgrowth I'm looking to remove, as well as one of a handful of bushes. These images represent maybe 30 to 50% of the surface area I want to clean up. If one wanted to just wipe all this off the map, what tools would you use to go about it? (I presume I'd need to rent one or two things.)





Not really clear on what you want to achieve. You want to remove everything that isn’t grass and just have turf everywhere?

It’s looks pretty nice as-is, and certainly more interesting than lawn right up to a chain link fence - I’d be looking to tidy it up and add to it.

If you did want to get rid of it all though, it’ll be easy to do yourself. Assuming there are no large trees:

Garden fork, spade, strimmer, loppers, saw (hand or reciprocating w/ pruning blade), gloves, maybe a pick axe, some containers to put the waste in for transport, assuming you’re not going to:
a) start a compost heap.
b) get a dumpster

You may have a decent size stump to deal with from that bush, and if you can’t dig it up you’d need to leave it to rot, burn it or get it ground off.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

The Wonder Weapon posted:

For the time being the plan is to make as much of my property lawnmower-capable as possible, which means converting a good bit to turf. The PO spent 40 hours a week cultivating the various flora, which I'm sure was nice when it was maintained, but we don't want to commit to that. If I can't ride over it in a lawnmower, it means it requires special attention, and I just know that we'll fail at that eventually, at least for now. I don't disagree that a planter area alongside the chainlink fence would be quite pretty, but only if it's not packed to brim with weeds, you know? Since I made that original post, a bunch more of those weeds have already started to sprout in the turf adjacent to the overrun planter.

I ended up talking with a friend that's an avid gardener, and I feel like I've got a battle plan.
For now:
-Spray roundup or some other weed-killing chemical generously on areas overrun with weeds, and areas where weeds are encroaching
-Chainsaw any large bushes down to the ground level
-Begin treating bush stumps with Epsom salts

In the fall:
-Rent a brush cutter (a higher octane string trimmer, basically) to clear out all the overgrown areas
-Rent a tiller and till all the soil where the weeds, etc are growing
-Spread landscape tarp over the tilled areas, then cover with mulch. Idea being, all the leftover organic matter will die and break down over the fall and winter, then in the spring the soil will be ready for grass seed

I'm not entirely sure what I'll do with the pile of bushes and weed stalks that I end up cutting down. I'm tempted to just pile them up in a corner of my lawn, and then in the spring burn it all. As for the dirt, I'll have pseudo-trench from all the small bushes I'm going to end up digging out, so any extra dirt can go there.

I may end up getting a second opinion from a landscaper if I can get one to come to the house, but nobody seems to be hurting for business at the moment, so getting someone out for an evaluation has proven difficult.

This looks great

Crazy thought: instead of spending a bunch of effort making your garden a featureless grass plain, maybe just spend the money hiring a gardener to maintain the bits you can’t. I’m sure it’s not 40 hours of work a week.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

devmd01 posted:

Siding got repaired along with a section of decking that was probably the source of the leak I was experiencing. The company I went with is well known in the area for good work, I’m glad I went with them. Completely professional process the entire way through with people who clearly knew what they were doing.





Looks like good work, stunningly stupid design for the roofline though. So much easier to just make the roofline a consistent height, and avoid a junction like this from ever existing.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

HycoCam posted:

Hilarious tales of flippers getting screwed.

Amazing, love it when justice is done.

I’m in the UK, currently doing a rather protracted renovation of a 120 year old terraced house.

I’ve currently got my subfloor up on the ground floor, insulation in, and was waiting on delivery of the ply.

Was meant to be here last week, got here today.

In hilarious news though, I got a text from my carpenter yesterday with a picture of his hand in bandages, telling me he severed half his thumb.

This is the 2nd contractor I’ve had send me such a photo this year.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

AFewBricksShy posted:

a hot water line

You don’t necessarily need a hot water line do you?
I’ve never seen a dishwasher in Europe that used one.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Wallet posted:

5000k everywhere for everything, as is proper. I don't understand how people can stand everything being yellow all the time.

The research on blue light keeping you up at night is pretty conclusive.

I can understand wanting white, daylight style colour temperature in the day, in areas where you’re doing work like the kitchen.

Naturally though, when the sun starts to set (most of the day this time of year) it gets more yellow, and so it’s natural for people to want more yellow lighting, especially at night.

I have hue bulbs in most rooms, dimmers in others, with special Philips dimmable LED bulbs which become more yellow when dimmed (like at night).

This seems a good balance to me.

With hue bulbs it’s pretty easy to setup to use a different colour profile for the time of day in your region, so it matches what the sun is doing.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

stealie72 posted:

Ask me about owning a home where a PO built an interior wall in front of a second storey window to install tile and a bathtub because they were either rejected or never bothered to try to get the architectural review board to give them a permit to remove the window. N

What kind of maniac can’t layout a house better than to want to brick up a window FFS.

stealie72 posted:

Hopeful they don't do a bunch of rich people bullshit but I'm not holding my breath. They need to do another normal house season again, like Detroit.

Detroit was cool, and they were really very nice houses, and only *normal* cause of Detroit.
My treasured memory is the woman who described her new home as being “all natural”.

Maybe just do someone like me, buying an old grandma home in need of a rewire & new floors, and not a multi millionaire building 3x the original floor space in top spec addons, and gutting all the functional bits because using 30,000 tons of new concrete to make a massive well insulated house is more eco-friendly somehow than just not.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

B-Nasty posted:

TOH has been crap recently. Even when they do the segments on a specific fix/install (like adding an overhead light + switch), the information density is very low. It always seems like they choose or pre-plan the easiest possible install, and they don't show or gloss over critical steps.

They need to show work in an existing home, where the first step reveals another problem, and then even investigating the fix involves trashing loads of drywall and covering the house in dust. Film live!

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

DaveSauce posted:

Is there any downside to a solid core interior door?

Solid vs hollow: only possible downside is you can do more damage to wall and frame by slamming it aggressively.

Other than that sepends what solid core means though, is it solid wood? Or veneer + chipboard.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Some Guy From NY posted:

Rockwool is awesome. In 2013 I moved into a brick house that had NO insulation in the walls. And it was directly next to overhead subway tracks in Brooklyn NY. Renovated the whole house, using (Roxul) Rockwool comfortbatt in the walls and rockwool safe'n sound in the floor joists.

When you say ”in” the walls, was there a cavity between two courses of brick, or did you batten the wall insulate and then board over the top?

I live in a single skin brick house, so no insulation in the walls without internal loss of space, which causes other issues.

His Divine Shadow posted:

I'm worried about the potential for moisture and mold issues, insulation can be a tricky subject and over many years it can go wrong even if you believe you thought of everytihng.

I’ve seen this recommended for old houses, as it avoids damp issues, stops draughts from washing through the insulation & reducing its efficiency.

https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/post/best-practice-approach-insulating-suspended-timber-floors

Probably European specific products mentioned though.

wooger fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Nov 2, 2020

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply