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Artum posted:Whats a good brand of black primer that I can get online quickly in the uk, off amazon or such? You might find it difficult to get spray primer delivered as Royal Mail refuse to carry it. If you're close to one, get Halfords black primer, best one I've ever used.
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Jul 26, 2017 20:28
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Anyone tried removing the various insignias on the primaries aggressors and traverse to male them look more generically sci-fi? Someone upthread was saying aggressors reminded them of Mobile Infantry and I wondered if anyone has tried it.
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Aug 1, 2017 02:32
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Liquid Communism posted:I think there are a lot cheaper options for generic SF military minis, though. Well I quite like the primaris models. Have plenty of Infinity stuff already, and just looking for a change of pace really.
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Aug 1, 2017 12:25
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:One of my friends found that using some GW colour sprays over Halfords Matt Black primer actually caused an adverse chemical reaction in the GW spray, even after weeks of curing time for the Halfords paint. GW spray paint has always been pretty weird and awful. It used to fuzz like crazy when I used it in high humidity. Halford cans have gone on perfect almost every time.
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Aug 25, 2017 20:23
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ineptmule posted:From my eyes-and-hands-on experience - and of products that people here applaud as being excellent - no competitor of GW yet makes plastics of an equal quality. At this point the only plastic toy making companies who produce better fitting plastic are Lego and Bandai (who can do single cast, multi-plastic, articulated parts). I don't think even the other Japanese companies are doing stuff as good as GW these days. Also Warmachine are quite firmly bottom tier when it comes to plastics. Only plastic army men/cheap boardgame pieces are worse. Most CoolMiniOrNot big box miniature-boardgames have better casts and quality than Warmahordes Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Sep 4, 2017 |
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Sep 4, 2017 01:30
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SRM posted:It's from the old Empire Knights kit, Rogue Trader had small shields like that on Terminator sergeants and I wanted to replicate it. I really like your photo backdrop, where did you get it from? I've got a lovely one printed on paper but it's really fragile.
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Sep 11, 2017 11:38
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Schadenboner posted:There's the Forge of Mars series and the Horus Heresy book Mechanicum, I think they're all by Graham McNeill. There's also Priests of Mars, which is kinda like BSG/FTL Admech edition.
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Sep 13, 2017 18:24
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Snidesworth posted:Statuesque Miniatures. Go for the heroic scale heads. Heroic scale narrow fits slimmer models (like Sisters of Silence) better.
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Sep 15, 2017 18:17
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richyp posted:Primed black for about 25 years, switched to grey about 5 years ago and realised how many years I'd wasted a) painting additional layers over black (or intermediate layers such as grey/white to get white, or brown to get yellow) b) painting in general c) that I've got less than a week before I turn 40 and am supposed to grow up. Same thing happened at 30 but meh. Zenithal prime everything for the best of both worlds. It's amazing how much less work you have to do when everything 'underneath' has been painted black and you can safely ignore it if you miss it.
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Sep 19, 2017 22:01
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DiHK posted:I think that if you took a water colors course and planned your poo poo out real good you'd probably do a really great job with white primer. Speaking from experience, water colours handle completely differently to acrylics, even when you wet blend or glaze. They are always semitransparent and if you layer with watercolours you end up with a brown mess. Also classical watercolour painting techniques absolutely hate the hard lines and angles of our miniatures.
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Sep 20, 2017 17:37
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Felime posted:Watercolors also require amazing planning to make them look nice, which transfers to models, if not super directly. You can overpaint models very easily unless you've gone into full THIN UR PAINTZ mode. Also IMHO it's less about amazing planning and more about 'feeling'. You don't really go into a piece with "I want to do a rock in this exact shape right here." You kind of splodge colours around and see what feels like the best shape for a rock and then you make it so in the painting process. My art teacher (who was into classical watercolours) never did do anything but the barest of sketches before putting paint to paper - you have some degree of planning and conceptualization, but probably not to the degree that you need on a miniature. To quote him when I showed him mini-painting, "It's the skill of no-skill." i.e. it's closer to paint by numbers than traditional art.
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Sep 20, 2017 19:23
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Zuul the Cat posted:These are the dudes i'm talking about. Skill on this level is outstanding. Truly artists in every sense of the word. Like I said earlier, even on here there are some incredible artists. Oh I sort of understood the point he was getting at. It wasn't that there was a lack of technical skill, but that painting a free-standing model didn't carry the same degree of "artistry" traditional art did. I personally preferred graphic design-type projects myself, and I knew he had a low opinion of those as well. Most miniature freehand is impressive because of the crazy brush control required to achieve it, not because of the composition of said freehand is inherently artistic. I've freehanded plenty of poo poo onto my models but I don't think I used any additional skills I didn't learn painting with poster paints in primary school. This was ages ago, but I suspect he would not argue that constructing a diorama like some of the aforementioned master painters was art, or the act of sculpting a miniature. Also I think that stuff like monochrome models would very much appeal to his sense of 'artistry' Alternatively he could just be an elitist watercolour dick...
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Sep 20, 2017 23:53
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A question for Repulsor-havers, can a Razorback or Predator turret fit into the turret ring?
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Jan 11, 2018 19:27
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TheBigAristotle posted:Yeah, I've been doing that, but obviously not enough. It's just when I thin them a bit more, I feel like I can't get the brightness I'm looking for. Plenty more models to paint in order to get it right, I suppose. If you aren't looking for a very precise shade of yellow, Iyanden Darksun is an excellent choice. Covers very well even if diluted, and has a very rich and not cartoony appearance.
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Jan 15, 2018 13:06
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Deified Data posted:Had a nice game last night against my buddy's Dark Angels where the bored-out-of-their-minds wife and kids of a Magic player milled around our table, kids attempting to climb it and poking at models while their mom yelled at them vaguely but never actually told them to stop, nor did she ever actually address us at all or ask if it was cool if they watched. I yell at little kids in front of their parents all the time at work and it was taking every fiber of my being not to here. Ultimately I ended up conceding turn 2 when they just couldn't get the hint and I could no longer concentrate. When one of the kids asked how the game was going and I told them I was losing a little girl said "he always loses" and a little boy said "you should try harder", which was cool. There were like 4 or 5 of them. Tell them if they break it, they pay for it, and if they can't pay you will accept indentured servitude instead. Worked for me as a kid. Fear of being locked up washing dishes forever in a back room kept my hands firmly to myself.
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Jan 29, 2018 18:47
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SteelMentor posted:
Ironically this is the gold shade you get with the true metallic paints. The orangey-yellowy gold one we're used to is more brassy than anything else.
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Feb 3, 2018 18:12
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Neurolimal posted:Yeah, I'd say easy DIY casting kits will have a bigger impact on the market, though I wouldnt be surprised if people started printing out upgrade sprues rather than pay out the rear end for a gun barrel or pauldron (if 3d printing gets cheap enough to be commonplace). Also to get really great 3D printed parts you need the fancy wax immersion models which are neither cheap nor easy to handle from what I've read. A lot of the models are mastered with 3d from one of these fancy machines but still a manufactured traditionally for this exact reason.
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Feb 6, 2018 13:42
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Corrode posted:Van Saar look awesome, the Chaos team is awesome, new terrain is awesome. Great stuff. Also lol at GW attending trade shows and using them to launch product like a real company. I wonder what the Infinity crowd will think about the quad-eye Van Saar helmets. They're extremely anime (in a good way).
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Mar 14, 2018 23:32
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Another UK goon here looking for anyone interested in the Necron half of Forgebane. Email me at z4miniatures (at) googlemail (dot) com
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Mar 15, 2018 23:47
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Duct Tape posted:Dredging this up from a dozen pages ago, but I gave this a shot the other day (scraping/plastic glue) and it seems to be holding strong. Thanks! If you've got pure solvent glue you don't even need to scrape, it will bond everything including the paint into one solid mass.
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Mar 28, 2018 19:14
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Yeah you do. Paint weakens a poly cement bond. Only if you've overpainted the area heavily. If all you have is some primer, most of it will brush off with the glue. FWIW the glue I'm referring to is less 'glue' and more 'industrial paint stripper'. So this digression is probably irrelevant 
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Mar 28, 2018 23:48
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Two Beans posted:
ijyt posted:Making greenstuff tentacles and posing them suuuuucks, I recommend a pack pewter cables from Dragonforge (scroll to the bottom) Get a tentacle maker and use greenstuff covered paperclips to make the cables. Decorative, sturdy and infinitely poseable.
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Apr 11, 2018 21:44
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Neurolimal posted:Emphasis on low-melting point of course, since Pewter isn't exactly the strongest of metals. It isn't the strongest of joins and you can't even manipulate the solder properly since the soldering iron will melt the pewter as well.
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Apr 14, 2018 02:33
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 Just got back from Salute. Spoke to the Anvil guys and they have the entire 'basic' not-sisters line ready for production. They look very good, a bit chunky and there's nothing remotely cheesecake about them. Photos are of the actual production casts. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Apr 14, 2018 |
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Apr 14, 2018 17:23
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Safety Factor posted:They almost look like a cross between the old Sisters of Battle and FW's Solar Auxilia which is one of my favorite ranges. However, I'm personally not sold on them, but knowing that official GW models are in the works probably isn't helping. I commented to the sculptor/co-owner that I thought they were a bit stumpy looking, especially compared to GW's recent offerings, and he mentioned he might consider stretching them a little. Due to the shape of the backpack and a non-corseted waist, they have a more rectangular look, whereas the Sisters really emphasize the hourglass figure with corsets and the backpack sticking up over both shoulders. They could probably stand to take more 'inspiration' from the sisters, but I get that Anvil's entire schtick is about modularity, so there are limits to what they will do. I think the helmets probably look a little too big as the proportions on these are different to the regular sisters. I saw one with an unhelmeted head and it definitely looks a lot better.
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Apr 14, 2018 23:29
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DancingShade posted:I pulled this from update #2 off the kickstarter. Might have been what you saw in person? Yes that's the one. I hope their heads end up as good as the Statuesque ones.
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Apr 15, 2018 11:16
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Is there anything to stop you from grabbing a lump of blu-tak and just sticking your model to the ledge or whatever it's supposed to be balancing on?
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Apr 18, 2018 22:29
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Finally decided to take the plunge into 40k and splurged on a pile of Admech and Custodes. First painted guy crossposted from the other thread 
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Apr 21, 2018 20:38
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What's your technique for the metal? It's very similar Duncan's from the painting video. Prime Halfords Black Base Leadbelcher spray Wash Nuln oil diluted 50:50 with Vallejo Thinner medium Drybrush VMA Steel Pick out details with VMC Copper and VMA steel Wash Agrax Earthshade diluted 50:50 with Thinner Drybrush VMA steel over Copper areas and any other bits which have been dulled too much by the second wash. Weather metal areas selectively with heavily thinned VMC Orange-brown and copper areas with Nihlalkh oxide.
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Apr 21, 2018 22:18
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Awesome, thanks. That looks like a perfect way to quickly get my robots painted. I've updated the original post with how I did the weathering on the metal. It's surprising easy, and I really like the VMA Steel - highly recommended. I just bought the Leadbelcher spray and realise that GW wasn't overselling it when they recommend it for basecoating everything metal. It really is excellent.
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Apr 21, 2018 22:29
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Booley posted:I cannot wait to see what you do with your custodes. Are you going for the normal gold scheme or something more interesting? I'm thinking of going with the Warders scheme and dark armour, except using dark purple instead of black. Similar to what I did on this Kingdom Death mini:  Edit: ^^^ I saw Booley's comment about his White Custodes, it's beautiful but I'm not mad enough to do it! It's only easy on the Armiger since it's super grimy and weathered and the white's intentionally blotchy. Doing crisp clean whites is a lot more troublesome. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Apr 21, 2018 |
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Apr 21, 2018 23:14
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Excellent work. Would you mind walking me through how you painted the base? I really like the contrast of the grey and brown. Rocks and gravel were basecoated VMC Dark Grey. The rest of the base was basecoated VMC Black-Brown and then covered in Agrellan Earth. When dry, the entire base was washed with Seraphim Sepia and Agrax Earthshade - Apply these in blotches across the entire base, not mixed together. Then drybrush everything with VMC Dark Sand building to VMC Pale Sand in the brown areas and VMC Basalt Grey to VMC Deck Tan in the grey areas. The brown and grey highlight colours can be applied to either area depending on how brown/grey you want the overall base to be. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Apr 22, 2018 |
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Apr 22, 2018 01:17
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Neurolimal posted:By the way, since Blood Angels have shown up a number of times here I figured this would be worth sharing: Booley posted:But these wings aren't any of those. They're vaguely modern-artifical. They're clearly not organic or angelic, but they're also not the overwrought mechanical wings that you see from the imperium, or the high tech wings you get from eldar. They're also gigantic compared to the typical 40k miniature. 1/144 gundams are about 15cm (ish) tall and those wings are big even for them. Maybe if you wanted to put wings on a knight or riptide but they're going to be off scale for everything else.
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Apr 23, 2018 16:59
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Zuul the Cat posted:New webway gate terrain. This is really beautiful. Looks a bit Giger-esque with the statues on the sides.
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Apr 27, 2018 16:26
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gender illusionist posted:Thanks, I'll go for that - I take it the 'air' line are just pre thinned for airbrush but work fine for standard use? You should probably thin them a little bit more for the airbrush but they are perfect to brush on out of the bottle.
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Apr 28, 2018 22:36
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Forums Terrorist posted:yeah the model colors are expressly designed for airbrushing, they cover like poo poo when brushed. you can brush touchups to sprayed coats but that's it Echoing Beer4theBeerGod - I've moved over to buying Model/Game Air paints wherever possible now since they're so much nicer to use even for brushpainting.
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Apr 29, 2018 08:17
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goodness posted:How did you do the white on this magnificent machine VMC Tan Earth base Wash Agrax Earthshade Stipple with VMC Dark Sand Stipple with VMC Deck Tan Re-wash crevices with Agrax Earthshade Tidy any highlights with Deck Tan For the white stripes I laid down some masking tape and stippled VMC White into those areas. The stippling technique is from winters SEO on YouTube. Use an old 0 or 1 brush and cut down the bristles, then load with thick paint, wipe excess off and jab aggressively at model.
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May 5, 2018 09:22
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Strobe posted:Picked up Know No Fear today to convert all of the Primaris into Deathwatch mans. I didn't realize that some of the Easy-Build stuff had shoulder pads sculpted directly onto the bodies. That took a lot longer than I wanted to bother with it. Any tips for those of us thinking of doing the same conversion? Did you just carve the sculpted pad off? Or did you just excise the whole shoulder?
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May 6, 2018 09:02
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Strobe posted:I tried both at once point or another. Cutting off just the shoulder pad was really tedious, but I think it's the easier option for the Inceptors and Gravis Captain. Replacing the shoulder entirely worked much easier on the rest of them. Hmm, doesn't sound too insane then. Would using some greenstuff under the shoulderpad have made things easier? At least you can fudge the shoulder into position?
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May 6, 2018 17:55
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:How in the world do you remove mold lines that quickly The GW mold line remover is shockingly quite a lot better to use compared to a knife, and much less likely to gouge out detail. Also if you use a pure solvent to glue your plastics (dichloromethane/tricholoromethane/Plastic-Weld) then you can brush it onto some mold lines to melt them.
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May 7, 2018 16:55
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