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So I recently got ahold of the Black Powder rulebook and me and my gaming group are considering buying models to use it. Question though: How much cash would I have to throw down for a basic start-up 28mm Napoleonic force? I can see boxes come with 40 or so men, but I don't have a frame of reference for how many I need to play, or how many units I need to form to have a starter game.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2012 02:51 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 04:05 |
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Colonial Air Force posted:Are you doing 1 to 1? What do you mean? Like having each model represent a single soldier? lilljonas posted:I honestly think that 2-3 boxes of Perry/Victrix/whatever per side is enough to get started with Napoleonics. Add a box or two of cavalry and some artillery too, and you have plenty of toys to play around with. Either way it will take a lot of time to paint up so many 28mm miniatures, even just assembling the plastics will take a considerable time if you buy too many of them. Don't fall into the trap of buying ten boxes of line infantry that are doomed to remain unopened in an attic somewhere. Thanks. I've played Warhammer Fantasy and 40K for about a decade now so I have plenty of experience in tediously painting hundreds of identical soldier-mans, so I'm not too worried about that.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2012 17:42 |
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lilljonas posted:Fantasy is similar in that they have block regiments, but there's just fewer things you can do with your regiments in Fantasy. So coming from fantasy, 3-4 units per side might sound small. But in a good Napoleonics game, there's just way more tactics in how you use your regiments, arranging them in lines or attack columns or squares, etc.. Would it be feasible to buy say, one box of infantry and split them up into a couple smaller units to get a feel for the game and decide if its something we're interested in playing? Edit: Also Black Powder doesn't seem to have very many pre-written unit stat blocks. Is that something we're just supposed to come up with on our own, or are there add-on books for different time periods?
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2012 19:50 |
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I just got my first box of Victrix 28mm French and I'm a little overwhelmed with the equipment options. It comes with 60 models and I'm splitting them into units of 24 Fusiliers, 12 Voltigeurs, and 12 Grenadiers. My question though, is what headpiece would the grenadier officer, standard bearer, and musician be wearing? The bearskins or shakos like the Voltigeurs? Also, if anyone has any good internet resources on Napoleonic uniforms, that'd be handy.
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# ¿ Jul 2, 2012 23:14 |
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Scratch Monkey posted:Sure but I always saw the appeal of that era being in commanding ranks upon ranks of troops so you can pretend you're Napoleon pushing regiments and divisions around austerlitz. There are entry of other settings where company sized skirmish games make more sense, to least to me. No matter what scale you're playing at you're your figures are going to be an abstraction of the total forces that were present at whatever battle. No one is going to field 100,000+ minis no matter how small they are. 28mm is just slightly more of an abstraction than 6mm, with the upside of having minis you can paint to a decent standard.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2012 17:17 |
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Colonial Air Force posted:I'm not familiar with battles where 100,000+ men were on the field, but even so, I find abstraction to be the worse offense of the two. gently caress your ratios, I want 1:1 or I'm going home. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borodino http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Waterloo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Jena-Auerstedt I'm not saying you're wrong for wanting to play in 6mm I was only trying to explain why others would prefer larger models. They're easier to paint to a decent standard and contain more detail than a smaller model will. I am only a decent painter of toy soldiers, and I can paint a 28mm figure so that it looks good. If I were to paint a 6mm it would probably look like a tri-colored blob. Since I personally spend about 10x as much time painting as I do playing so I want my models to be large and look good on display, that's just my preference. Class Warcraft fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Aug 7, 2012 |
# ¿ Aug 7, 2012 19:35 |
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Serotonin posted:http://towton-2011.blogspot.co.uk/ Yeah, how many people can pull that off? Maybe 20 people in the whole world? There are dudes who have entire space marine chapters 1:1, but your average player can't field that kinda poo poo. What I'm trying to say is there is almost always gonna abstraction unless you're some sort of millionaire sperglord. Waterloo had a battlefront length of 2.5 miles, even at 6mm you're looking at a 40' foot long table if you're playing "to scale". I personally don't mind abstraction, it doesn't bother me. To each his own.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2012 19:43 |
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Exactly, so unless you're willing to drop 2500£ on models, build a 40' table, or gather a ton of other dudes who have armies, you're gonna have to abstract it some. Maybe my expectations are just colored by years of playing warhammer/40k but when I buy a model I generally expect to be able to build him in different poses and paint him up to stand on his own merits.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2012 19:57 |
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I've bought most of my French from Victrix which are (somewhat) pose-able. They line up just fine. At any rate, my budget for Napoleonic figures is like 200 bucks so no matter what I'm going to have a dinky force, and I'd rather have larger figures that I can paint eyeballs on and draw little regimental logos and poo poo.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2012 20:08 |
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Colonial Air Force posted:
I never said it was stupid. I've been advocating that people play whatever they prefer. I was just explaining why some people prefer larger models after posts like this started popping up: Scratch Monkey posted:Napoleonic/big regiment historical minis in anything above 6mm never made much sense to me. Since massed formations was the essence of warfare back then you're never going to capture that with s handful of 28mm figures.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2012 20:21 |
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Kinda wish I hadn't sold off my Flames of War stuff, but I had no one to play against.
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2012 04:20 |
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Does anyone have an AAR for Saga where they kind of explain whats happening as they're going? The game looks intriguing to me but I'd like to see a game in action before I start buying models.
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# ¿ Mar 23, 2013 18:54 |
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Cessna posted:Here's my WWI German army. 28mm scale. They're a mix of Renegade and Great War miniatures. They're "Late War," intended to represent the army at about the time of the 1918 Spring Offensive. Fantastic mini's dude. Would you mind posting a couple links to where you ordered them from? Also, what rules do you use for these guys?
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2013 01:14 |
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Me and my buddies are going to play our first real Black Powder Napoleonic game sometime this week. It'll be the Austrians and British against my French. The main rulebook suggests First Fire for the British infantry and some rule about attack columns for the French to make their units more unique. Anyone have any suggestions for the Austrian infantry? He'll be fielding Fusiliers and Landwher infantry. Also are the Napoleonic expansion books for Black Powder worth getting?
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# ¿ May 29, 2014 07:04 |
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Speaking of sprues, I need about twenty 28mm French Napoleonic heads. Anyone have any suggestions on where I might find something like that?
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# ¿ Jun 2, 2014 02:51 |
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Swagger Dagger posted:You could buy a box of victrix plastic infantry and get a shitload, since they don't seem to sell individual sprues anymore. Victrix got me into this mess to begin with. I bought some sprues of revolutionary french troops off my friend and replaced their heads with my extra heads from my Napoleonic french, but I'm about 20 heads short.
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2014 06:54 |
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muggins posted:I put up some thoughts again on my progress with Bolt Action. I signed up to be a Sarge, basically their version of press ganger or street team. I demo the game and if I do enough I get 25% off orders with Warlord. I wouldn't do it just for the discount, I really want to get friends into the game. You also get a demo assault on Normandy kit. I've never really heard of this before. Just curious, how did you end up signed up for that? How do they track how many demos you're doing?
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# ¿ Jun 21, 2014 21:08 |
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Serotonin posted:I ain't fighting. I'm not even sure why this guy keeps having a pop at me then deleting it. Let's just move on and talk about playing with our toy soldiers. Well there is always this: http://us-store.warlordgames.com/collections/anglo-zulu-war-1879/products/horns-of-the-buffalo-rorke-s-drift-collector-s-set. Only $440!
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# ¿ Jul 15, 2014 14:13 |
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No Pun Intended posted:Has anyone used Wayland games? I am looking into getting the Great War box sets and using Wayland games saves me $20 over directly ordering from Battlefront themselves (they both ship from England anyways). Their prices are good but don't be surprised if your poo poo takes a month to arrive.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2014 06:01 |
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Yo. Warlord has 50% off all plastic sprues today for Black Friday: http://us-store.warlordgames.com/collections/sprues/
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# ¿ Nov 28, 2014 19:24 |
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Southern Heel posted:I've been looking through CoC and BA rules while we've been having this discussion and I'm having a hard time working out how the melee rules work when the rubber hits the road for BA: the combination of remove-all-pins and 'you roll dice and one side dies' seems quite both quite arbitrary and lethal. Basically each side attacks simultaneously, unless there is some sort of terrain involved. You have to roll higher than the enemy rating to kill them, so killing an Inexperienced soldier might require a 3+ while killing a veteran requires a 5+. Some troops get abilities that give them two attacks, or if their weapon is a close range weapon like an SMG you often get a bonus attack as well. Side that took the most casualties loses and is destroyed. Its a good way to annihilate a squad once and for all, but yes it is very deadly.
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# ¿ Dec 18, 2014 16:59 |
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Southern Heel posted:I'm looking at seeing if I can cobble together lists which would work for CoC and BA, I'm looking at the 1939 Poland/German lists. The Polish force has a +5 rating and the German Wehrmacht has a +1 rating. So, unless I'm totally mistaken - this means that the Germans will get a +4 bonus to their support roll for a given scenario and the Poles nothing? I'm trying to flesh this out a little further, so please bear with me and let me know if I'm mistaking anything. The majority of scenarios have 2d6+modifier for defender and half of that roll for attacker, so... You can make free Bolt Action army lists here using this site: http://boltaction.easyarmy.com/
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2014 16:54 |
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Anyone have any experiences ordering from NWS Games? http://yhst-12000246778232.stores.yahoo.net/boacsese.html I saw some people recommending them on bartertown and their prices are great, but their website does not inspire confidence.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2015 06:07 |
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SquadronROE posted:I've started getting into Bolt Action - it seems to be the right scale for me. I can actually pull together a French army that would be somewhat competitive (if only vs. Early war opponents). Aside from Warlord's site and Warlord minis, what's a good place to get minis from? http://yhst-12000246778232.stores.yahoo.net/boacsese.html This joint has really good prices. I asked about them once and no one seemed to have anything bad to say, although I haven't ordered from them personally.
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# ¿ May 25, 2015 22:44 |
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muggins posted:I'm going to do a whole blog post, but I wanted to share this here: http://imgur.com/a/PU5Q3 drat dude, good job. Post pics from your battle, looks like it'll be awesome.
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# ¿ May 30, 2015 08:36 |
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Personally, having (briefly) played FoW I prefer Bolt Action. Bolt Action is pretty much WH40K set in WW2 and run by a company that isn't insane. I was able to build a Soviet force of about 50 infantry + some special weapons & a tank for like, 60 bucks. The rules seem pretty solid, and there are lists for pretty much every combatant so far. A lot of people in this thread also like a ruleset called Chain of Command that runs on a similar scale as Bolt Action.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2015 16:32 |
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Whoa.
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# ¿ Sep 19, 2015 09:35 |
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Polikarpov posted:The local historical gaming group runs some seriously good-looking scenario games. Wow, these are seriously beautiful tables/minis they've got there. Any idea how to get in touch with them? San Diegos not far from me and I could use some new faces to play with.
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# ¿ Dec 31, 2015 02:50 |
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Polikarpov posted:http://us-store.warlordgames.com/collections/bolt-action/products/empires-in-flames-the-pacific-and-the-far-east-bolt-action-theatre-book I have this, and in terms of variety its pretty great. For China you have a couple scenarios/theatre selectors, army lists for Communist, Nationalist, and Warlord Chinese forces, army list for Japanese Army in China, and an army list for the 1945 Soviet invasion of Manchuria. Then you've got lists/scenarios for Japan invading the DEI and Phillipines, some cool army lists scenarios for the battles/raids in Burma, then finally some scenarios for Guadalcanal and Tarawa. Oddly, the Soviet/Japanese border clashes are in the Ostfront book instead though.
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2016 03:41 |
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INinja132 posted:Just that their D-Day starter kit thing is like £70 and doesn't get you that many actual guys. Just buying a full army is also £70 or so plus all the rulebooks, dice, terrain etc. I think their minis are really cool and they look great, but if I can get them for a respectable amount cheaper at 1/72 instead then it seems like that's a better move. Unless 1/72 is significantly worse in sculpt quality and it screws with the distances etc. Yeah, I'm not sure the starter set is actually a very good deal. Plus, other sites typically have better prices on Bolt Action Stuff than the actual company storefront. I built 750pt armies for both USMC and Japanese for only $100 total using this site, for instance: https://www.nws-online.net
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2016 19:46 |
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Yvonmukluk posted:Man, I'm pretty much made up to buy into Bolt Action (my FLGS is making a pretty great value offer for preordering, considering the discount plus throwing in a box of Infantry), but I'm kind of debating whether or not to get a US infantry box or to grab instead a box of British (that I might be using as Canadians instead). I don't suppose anyone could help sway me one way or another. As someone who has managed to slowly slide into collecting a platoon of every army here's my take on the different armies boxes they're offering for the BA version 2 deal: US infantry - Kinda boring models, honestly. The poses are static and they don't come with a ton of cool goodies. British Infantry - My least favorite, static models, not a lot of extras, a lot of the weapons seem too small and they're hard to avoid breaking Soviet Infantry - Best deal in terms of mans per dollar, mix of different uniform types which could be annoying to some, lots of weapon types to choose from Japanese Infantry - Dynamic poses, lots of cool little extras like swords, anti-tank pikes, standards, ect. German Grenadiers - Tons of different weapons and cool addons, lots of ability to customize your hitler mans IMO if you want to go British/Canadian grab the Desert Rats Perry miniatures box. I picked up my earlier this week at my FLGS for $20 and it comes with an entire platoon of models.
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2016 04:42 |
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Enentol posted:Looking great! drat dude. I'd read a guide on how you made that table, it looks great
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2016 20:16 |
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xutech posted:Thanks for the link, but I mean is there common wisdom about making army building choices? I'm a bit overwhelmed and even with 1500 points as a guide I don't get all the stuff I want. Veterans seem to be great but then my experimental lists look a little scarce. You're probably splurging somewhere unnecessary. Post a sample list and we can review it for ya.
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2016 06:04 |
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Enentol posted:In all of the games of BA I've played so far, I'm really not impressed with mortars. Sure, they're iconic, and when they hit, they can hit hard, but over the course of a game, I'm convinced that a squad of infantry of equivalent points will do just as much damage as well as be mobile enough to capture points and be able to respond to other threats. In my experience mortars are best used to annoy weapon teams that can't move and shoot. For instance, if the enemy has an AT gun or machine gun team in a good spot that's going to cause you trouble I usually target those with the mortar. Either they stay put and sooner-or-later take the mortar hit, or you force them to move to avoid it, thus denying them the ability to fire with that team. Light mortars I haven't tried yet I'm building a Japanese platoon using historical guidelines and one squad is supposed to have three knee/light mortars. So theoretically that squad should be able to rain down 3 mortar shells and a half dozen rifle shots every turn which could be very effective if they manage to range-in quickly.
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# ¿ Sep 13, 2016 18:27 |
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spectralent posted:also there are tank platoons. Is there like a table you roll on, how does this even work?
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# ¿ Sep 14, 2016 00:15 |
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I've already received mine and I live in the US, color me impressed.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2016 03:01 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:Eh, spacing the photos out would have been nice, but it was a fine review. I appreciated the matter-of-fact approach, too many blogs and especially nerd blogs try to add patter or whimsy without pulling it off as entertaining. This is why I can't watch Beasts of War videos because I'm constantly yelling "shut up and tell me about the game!" It has a few of the special scenario rules like night fighting, but oddly most of the rest like desert fighting, airborne landings, amphibious assault, ect are still only in the campaign books.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2016 15:09 |
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Oh yeah, I totally forgot about the free Patton model I was supposed to get. Anyone else that got their 2nd edition rulebook, can you confirm if yours came with the Patton mini?
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2016 20:38 |
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muggins posted:If you pre-ordered it from WLG you got Patton I preorded from Warlord and didn't get one Time to put in a ticket I guess.
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# ¿ Sep 22, 2016 03:07 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 04:05 |
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Crossposting from the terrain thread: Does anyone have an opinions on laser-cut MDF buildings? I'm looking to pick up a couple buildings and right now I'm looking at Sarissa and 4ground. Sarissa is cheaper but 4ground comes pre-painted which is nice since I'm time-poor. Yvonmukluk posted:Got a M4 Sherman for relatively cheap for my Armoured Doughs, since my LGS is breaking up a few of the old starter sets and selling off the components at a discount. Quick question: do you guys think investing in a pintle mounted MG is a good idea? I mean, you already have the co-axial MG and the hull mounted MG, so I guess you need to ask yourself if you really need an extra tank mounted MG. I never add them for pure modeling reasons, that being that they always break off and become a huge pain in the rear end. The US Marine models are awesome but they're definitely gritty while the US army models are clean-cut Saving Private Ryan looking dudes. I think kitbashing them with some army bits and fielding them as a separate vet unit would look great though.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2016 21:39 |