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SpartanIvy posted:Thanks for all your help. I'm very tired and I'd prefer not to start disassembling my printer and poking on the board and accidently fry something so I'm going to pick this up tomorrow. You're welcome. The next thing would be resistance between fan- (that fan connector where you probed is fine) and DCV- on the power supply. This'll measure the fan mostfet. It should be open circuit. Also, as it's a mosfet, and your meter has a diode test function (sharing space on the conductivity function). So if you like you can check the body diode, I don't know your exact meter, but I'm thinking it'll beep and tell you the voltage drop if it works, it'll probably be .6v. One last idea for a test. If you have a led hanging around you can watch it as it brightens or not. A problem is that our eyes also respond on a curve, and it's much harder to tell brightness differences in bright things than dim things. But we can just make the led dim, I don't really know how well it'll work. Also, the range between 0-255 might be too broad to work on a single resistor. You might have to look at the range of 0-127 with one, and 127-255 with another. Also you'll probably need to do jumps in like 10-20 to see any difference. Anyway, just go across fan+ to fan- with a led and a 4.7k resistor in series. That should keep it pretty dim. You can go higher if it's too bright, but don't go below 600 if it's too dim. To be honest, I don't really have a good explanation for what's going on, and I don't have a reason to doubt your meter with what I've seen either, and have pretty much run out of easy tests.. I looked at creality's marlin github, and they're not doing anything obvious with fan speeds. Comedy option: You say you have 2 fans? They'll probably still run if you give them 12v. You could try running them in series. Donno if they'll give you enough cooling.
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Dec 5, 2020 08:41
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Class Warcraft posted:I broke the side off my filament spool while trying to fix a nasty tangle. Can I just like, put the filament in a bucket and run it from there, or will it continuously tangle itself that way? I think it could work, but I have concerns. There are filamentish things sold in bucket like containers. Twine immediately comes to mind, but I know I've seen others. It's probably not as simple as put pile into bucket. I'd want to feed it in so that it recoils in the bucket so as to make sure there aren't later coils on top of newer coils. I imagine a scenario where the feed is lifting a loop. I wouldn't really call it a tangle, but it could still get caught on something and kink or jam. Also pulling out of a coil introduces a twisting motion that unspooling doesn't. If you've ever coiled a garden or air hose you'll feel how it wants to twist to lay flat. I'd expect the filament to rotate in the extruder and this to not matter, but it is possible that it would build up tension until is causes an issue in the pile instead. Also, I'd expect it to be even more vulnerable to loosing the end.
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Dec 11, 2020 22:16
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Correct me if I’m wrong, but the Export DXF feature in F360 is behind the paywall now, AFAIK. Their messaging on dxf is all over the place, but it's still free. Make a sketch on whatever face you want a dxf of. Right click on the sketch on the list and save it as dxf. There might have been some sort of file -> export option that's gone, but I never used it in the first place.
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Dec 12, 2020 01:55
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Here4DaGangBang posted:Oh poo poo, this could be very helpful, thanks. The sketch will look blank, but if you hide the body you sketched you'll see a shadow of the face.* If you mouse over it'll also show edges. I always rename the sketches to something descriptive, cause it's hard to tell which is which otherwise. Of course, you can always draw on the sketch. You can also delete lines, but it's kind of a pain as they're invisible. I've also created sketches on offset plains and then explicitly projected only geometry I was interested onto it. *it's just another closed profile, even if you can't see the lines. NewFatMike posted:Holy moly I would not have been able to hold it together if that was true. Same. I use it a ton for laser cutting.
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Dec 12, 2020 06:35
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Maigius posted:Weirdly, the good prints happened afterwards. Will standard Dawn work? I find this happens sometimes. Sometimes you just get random failures. The cleaner the bed, the less likely it will let go. If the success was started shortly after this one finished, the bed could have been already warm and stable. The previous one could have taken the surface oils with it. Dawns fine, just wash it completely off. Soap residue is not good for adhesion.
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Dec 15, 2020 01:56
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Not kapton, but I worked with someone who was experimenting with PEI sheets. To remove the adhesive residue from them he was soaking them in limonene for extended periods of time. Searching for "kapton tape adhesive residue" indicates that it is a silicone adhesive. Searching for removing silicone in general found me Permatex Silicone Stripper. The msds of that shows it to be mostly light petroleum distillates (lighter fluid, or a large proportion of goo gone), some heptane, and a small amount of an organic acid (dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid). Essentially light solvents and a detergent.
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Dec 15, 2020 06:48
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insta posted:Ok, maybe you can help with my Intamsys build plates. They have a smooth and matte side, and while I usually use the matte, smooth is needed for some surface finishes with the paint-on stickums like WolfBite or NanoPolymer. An idea popped into my head today. Try a pressure washer with a bit of soap. It might just need more mechanical action than is conveniet to do by hand.
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Dec 16, 2020 21:55
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I definitely feel it's worth trying, particularly on a stubborn residue. An aggressive pressure washing can remove paint and gum. You could try one of the ones at a carwash place, though location and weather might not be a good option. They won't be as strong, people don't usually want to wash the paint off their car. There are services that wash driveways with them where I am, which you could try contacting to drop by for a 5 min job, worst thing is they'll say it's too small a job. I think some hardware stores rent them as well, though I have no idea for how much. There are also the air compressor based ones, so if you know someone with a compressor they might have one.
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Dec 16, 2020 23:59
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SpartanIvy posted:So a few pages back I was going back and forth trying to figure out why my dual 5015 fans on my Ender 3 were not scaling properly with the power being provided. Like 1-10% power would really be 90%+ power. I take it the input of the buck converter across the same leads as the fans? If so, what's going on is the input capacitor of the buck converter is charging up while the transistor is on, and back feeding power when the transistor is off. You could put a series diode into the input of the buck converter to prevent the back flow.
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Dec 17, 2020 06:49
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I've never seen anyone who didn't like to play with this trilobite. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28259
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Dec 23, 2020 04:10
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I know madison has a couple of hackerspaces. I'd try emailing one of them to see if they could point you at a member that would take it on.
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Dec 23, 2020 20:16
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I know from other things that you need to chill the shaft and heat the collar. Here's a se with that goes into a bit more detail. https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/12599/will-a-hole-cut-into-a-metal-disk-expand-or-shrink-when-the-disc-is-heated
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Dec 23, 2020 22:05
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cakesmith handyman posted:Can confirm whatever double path extrusion/clogging issue I had previously was an artifact of cura slicing the supposed-to-be-single-wall designed in supports in the model, other slicers had no problem and cura sliced it happily with a 0.5mm nozzle, printed okay. For what it's worth, prusaslicer explicitly has extrusion width separate from nozzle size. I've used this before to prevent 2 paths for prints that I only want one. You still get fine results up to about 200%. According to this 2015 forum explanation Cura calculates extrusion width based on a number of factors. In 2019 cnckitchen did an investigation and simply said the setting was hidden by default, and did his tests with prusaslicer. I don't generally use cura, so I can't say myself.
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Dec 25, 2020 02:13
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Doctor Zero posted:Can you laser cut polystyrene or will it just burst into flames and melt down? Solid sheets generally cut fine, but it tends to be melty as well, giving poor edge quality. It may or may not be acceptable depending on application. Polystyrene foam (styrofoam) melts and catches fire. Not recommended.
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Dec 28, 2020 00:00
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Doctor Zero posted:Just curious. Had visions of laser cutting plastic sheeting to make model buildings. Drag knife + cnc table is what I'd suggest.
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Dec 28, 2020 05:24
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AlexDeGruven posted:Sure. I know not all plastics are fit for it. If you're thinking like HIPS, then a highly qualified maybe. Experimenting is most of the fun. Many work poorly, of course. Avoid PVC, including vinyl fabrics, as they are chlorinated and produce corrosive gasses, which are very bad for the optics.
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Dec 28, 2020 05:47
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Drowning Rabbit posted:The reviews seem rather mixed on it, but I am curious if there is a kit that is legitimately helpful at automating the level process? It's one of those things, if you can auto home ( Of course ), and auto level, that seems like MOST of the user error issues sorted. Autoleveling is fantastic, and bltouches works well. They also rely on a long chain of software that needs to be precisely setup. Errors are difficult to diagnose.
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Dec 31, 2020 03:39
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biracial bear for uncut posted:All the sensors do is compensate for a plate that isn't flat. They also compensate for bed out of level. That said, if you can compensate for out of flat, you can do out of level. Levelness is just consistent offsets along some line after all. Zaffy posted:Around 27 second mark the sword breaks because the nozzle bumps it out of place, the nozzle also bumps part of the cape out of place a few seconds (hours) later. What might cause this sort of thing? It's an Ender 5 Pro, with glass bed. Z movement looks constant, so I don't think it was a skipped step. Nothing else seems to be disturbed when it first falls, so I don't think so. I don't see cupping from over extrusion. It could have been buildup from oozing, though the print looks generally clean so I'd say you have retraction well set. In short, donno. I think the cape is being bumped by the extrusion hairball debris stuck to the extruder.
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Dec 31, 2020 07:31
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Mikey Purp posted:Unrelated, but that post earlier about the MP Pro has got me curious about delta printers, although I'm really turned off by the MP Pro being unable to use Marlin. What other brands of delta printers are worth looking at? A quick Google search led me to Atom which look really nice but apparently they are extremely hard to find or something. Seemecnc's offerings are very nice. Thier current stuff doesn't run marlin either, but the duet ecosystem is very nice and under active development. I have one of their older printers that I'm happy with.
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Dec 31, 2020 20:29
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Telltolin posted:It took some dialing in, leveling and fiddling around with various settings but I got my ender 5 pro working Cnckitchen did an investigation into how much nozzles are worn by abrasive filament. After 360g (so ~1/3 spool), glow in the dark had caused basically no wear, but carbon fiber impregnated was showing significant wear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvlMeTnjriQ
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Jan 1, 2021 10:03
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Been making various inane, if functional items - pen holders, headphone mounts and so on and despite all of the extra tinkering required I really think I prefer it over SLA. I like tinkering anyway! The resin with SLA is a pain in the rear end, filling/cleaning it, rinsing and curing the prints, not to mention the generally higher price for resin compared to filament from what I've seen. I'm excited to try out different filaments and gonna investigate my options. I know there are filaments like glow in the dark that are abrasive and eat away at brass nozzles over time, and since I'm not in the mood for changing nozzles I'll avoid those.
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w00tmonger posted:Running into 2 things in the first print for the ender 3 Probably. It can also mean you need to extrude hotter. Less likely include various clogging issues.
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Jan 9, 2021 05:18
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w00tmonger posted:Is extrusion width going to amount to how level the bed is? Ie how squished that first layer is? I wouldn't recommend measuring the first layer. Instead measure a single wall from something small printed in vase mode. You might be able to calibrate extrusion from a dead on first layer, small changes in the amount of squish will also affect extrusion width while also changing bed adhesion. Also most setups will have a thicker first layer which will further change the amount of extruded plastic. You could dial in extrusion on a wall, and then further work on dialing in the extrusion width of the first layer by adjusting squish and first layer thickness. Just don't compromise proper adhesion for a single layer.
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Jan 9, 2021 07:15
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w00tmonger posted:Calibrated e steps. 2 cubes have popped off the bed since doing so. Did I good something? Bed adhesion is a combination of how much plastic, and how close it is to the bed. Changing esteps changes how much plastic is extruded. I'm guessing that you reduced it and that the nozzle needs to be closer to the bed now. It's also possible that you just touched the bed a bunch while messing with the extruder, and it just needs to be cleaned.
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Jan 9, 2021 19:06
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w00tmonger posted:Things are working perfectly on the ender3 except I have a bit of extruder slipping occasionally (seemingly more the beginning of the print?). It could. If a single wall is too thick it's a sign the extrusion multiplier in the slicer is set too high. If extrusion multiplier (flow rate in cura) is too high the resulting backpressure can cause skipped steps. It's easiest to notice early in a print because the solid layers don't allow for overflow, building pressure instead. You want to measure a single wall because you're interested in how much over (or under)flow there is. Or your combination of temp sensor, main board, nozzle, and filament just needs to be set hotter.
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Jan 10, 2021 05:52
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w00tmonger posted:Im reading that Petg prints are hydrophobic, but Petg filament is hydroscopic? Hygroscopic is the ability to absorb water out of the air. Hydrophobic is that water placed on its surface will bead up, its opposite is hydrophilic. They're independent, and something could be both hydrophobic and hygroscopic. (Hydroscopic refers to viewing things under water. Think reverse periscope.) Sagebrush has a good effort post on food safety of printing, but the short version is that food safety has almost nothing to do with the polymer. Sagebrush posted:^^^^^^
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Jan 17, 2021 03:27
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w00tmonger posted:So food safe wise from digging around PETG should be good to go. Going to come down to long term durability in the water. Basically every pure polymer ever can be made foodsafe, and going even further, safe to eat. They're very large molecules that are incredibly difficult to digest or even absorb. That they can be safe doesn't matter. In actual use polymers are mixed with plasticizers. These are much smaller molecules that vary between essentially benign, and awful. Filament manufacturers probably aren't using the awful ones (awful ones get phased out of general use pretty quickly), but they might be using mediocre ones on the grounds that it's not like you're sucking on it. In actual use polymers are mixed with colorants. These run the gamut between completely safe, and hope you like lead. Using too much of the wrong colorant has lead to toy recalls. Plastics destined for food safe applications are stored, handled, and worked with more care than ones without. It's a much bigger deal if some machine oil is spilled on plastic for forks, as opposed to plastic for filament. All that said, it's almost certainly fine to do what you want to do; but saying it's petg so it's good because it's also used in food applications does not hold.
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Jan 17, 2021 07:19
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Hermsgervørden posted:Oh, also, I'm using Repetier Host because I don't know how to get PrusaSlicer to recognize the printer. I can get Repetier to tell me it's connected to the printer, but that's it. If I try to manually increment the motors, nothing happens. If I try to have it heat the bed and extruder, Repetier seems to believe that it is, but it doesn't actually heat up. Very confusing and frustrating. I feel like an idiot (which is normal) but I wish I knew what I should be trying. If not Repetier, what software should I be using and how should I get started on making that software interface with the printer. Mac OS Big Sur if that matters. Prusaslicer doesn't recognize your printer because it's not a printer host, it's a slicer. Its purpose is to make gcode files from 3d models. It's up to you how to get them to your printer. Host software was the original way of doing this. They sent the print gcode line by line over usb. Now most people put the gcode files on sd cards and control the printer with the panel on it. Host software is still useful for the kind of debugging you're doing. Pronterface is probably the most common one.* I don't see why repetier wouldn't work though. Are you homing the printer though the control panel or repetier? So far you haven't said you've done anything that could only have been done though the host, as well as many things you can't get to work on the host, so I'm wondering if you haven't actually connected to the printer with it. Can make sure you're connecting to the printer's com port, also while autodetecting speed usually works on printers, you might need to manually set it as well. As far as debugging your homing issue, yergacheffe's M119 suggestion is an excellent start. If it checks out make sure that the carriage is actually hitting the switch's trigger, I don't know if it's possible for your printer to miss it, but I've seen it happen. *Other than octoprint of course, which is technically a printer host. That said it's used in a pretty different way (running on a permanently connected computer, managed though network), although you can use the web console to access the traditional host functions. I wouldn't suggest it until you get your printer working. quote:To be honest, getting the Z axis right is causing me some concern. I assembled the Z axis and Z stop according to the instructions, but discovered that the Z stop was at least a quarter inch from being triggered with the nozzle against the print bed. I know that can't be right. I got a longer screw that does touch, after being tightened all the way down, and also raising the print bed on it's adjusters as far as I felt would still let me make some tuning adjustments. This just seems wrong, but I don't know what I may have messed up. Hermsgervørden posted:I believe the nozzle is .3mm, but I don't know for sure or how to measure it. You could compare it with a known nozzle, experiment with settings to see which is working better, compare with micro drillbits (sometimes sold as a cleaning accessory to 3d printing). If you get good at cold pulls(where you let a little bit of plastic just solidify in the nozzle, but still warm enough that you can pull it out it whole) measuring the resulting nub can get you a pretty good measurement. Hermsgervørden posted:binder clips
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Jan 24, 2021 07:29
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frogge posted:Is there a tool for melting leftover filament ends together? I've got a bunch of 12in/30cm or so ends from the unprinted bits of PLA spools and it feels like a waste to just bin them. I just feed them into a printer sequentially, pausing the print if needed. I've heard of people using nothing more than a hot air gun (or even a lighter) and a spatula to fuse them together. I've tried it and didn't have any success. It either didn't bond well, or would make a connection that didn't feed. Here's someone using fusing some pieces inside a teflon tube. There's also these options. I just found this fascinating tool on ebay. or this?
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Jan 25, 2021 07:44
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Class Warcraft posted:Well, I did something stupid. My Ender 3 Pro got a little clog so I paused my print, cleared the clog and replaced the nozzle, but in the process I accidently pushed the printhead along the X-axis. Now when I resume printing it's off by a couple inches. Is there a way to rehome it before resuming my print? You might recover if you send it a "g28 x" command. No idea if the printer will respond to it while paused. frogge posted:Is there a tool for melting leftover filament ends together? I've got a bunch of 12in/30cm or so ends from the unprinted bits of PLA spools and it feels like a waste to just bin them. Another good use is as material for a 3d pen. Besides the art uses, they're also useful for touchups, repairs, and fusing parts together.
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Jan 25, 2021 18:01
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Ambrose Burnside posted:for real tho, what's the application and why does it seem so popular w people producing 3d printed designs. i'm assuming you can code it into doing whatever you want p easily, so i get the parametric stuff I've seen, plus it's free, so maybe research/academic stuff? but as far as general users go, who would possibly want to use this for normal CAD tasks, it's just masochistic A big thing is that when it was adopted there were very few alternatives. Fusion, onshape, etc didn't exist. Solidworks and inventor are either hope you have an educational license or $$$$. Good low cost or free 3d modeling programs existed, but those are very much not cad. For all it's faults scad lets you make a dimensioned cube with a dimensioned hole going though at a specified spot, and then let you change it easily. It probably helped that many early reprappers were programmers, so scad wasn't totally foreign, just strange. Also it's open source so in a community that's built on open source slicers, firmware, and designs, it shouldn't be too surprising that some people are going to edge away from proprietary cad packages. I think it being the thing behind thingiverse's customizer gives it a boost as well. So now it's established as a 3d printer thing.
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Jan 30, 2021 04:41
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I don't like openscad. I've tried it, and done some midsized projects, and found that it has some deal killers. The first is the awful way it evaluates code. To quote the manual. Variables are set at compile-time, not run-time. code:It has lazy "clever" design. My biggest example here is the cylinder, which actually gives you some prism with some number of facets. If I wanted a prism, I'd have asked for a prism. Sure, I can specify a large number of sides, or a small fragment angle, or a small fragment length, but other programs get this right without any intervention on me. This is the developers passing on some work and going wouldn't it be clever if we could just combine n-gonal prism and cylinder, and it'll be fine. You can't do anything with the geometry it calculates. Lets say I want a sphere at a corner of a cube. I can't tell it to put something at the corner of a cube, I have to calculate a point that's coincidentally at the same point as the corner. It's not hard if it's at the origin and still orthogonal to the axes, but if you translate and rotate it a bit you've got yourself a math problem. That's just a cube, it's even worse if you've gotten some kind nontrivial geometry. Scad knows where these features are. It calculated them, now let me use them. I admit it wouldn't be trivial to uniquely describe them. It can be done, and other programs do it. It just has bad performance. The preview has fine performance, of course, but it only stays accurate for simple things. Getting the actual model is slow, and you'll be doing it a fair bit. Again, other programs get this right, or at least better. I admit that if you go back half way into a large project in fusion it'll have to recalculate a bunch of things, but for the incremental work it's fast. I'll also admit that there's probably more of a challenge avoid recomputing when it's equally easy to insert anything anywhere.
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Jan 31, 2021 06:01
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SEKCobra posted:
Assuming fusion, you mention it, and it's what I know. To construct such a plane you're looking for you need the plane along path function. Construct -> Plane Along Path. In the resulting dialog select the line you want to look along (the dashed). It will then let you set a distance type, proportional is easiest to use for this. It also lets you set a distance. In proportional this is the percentage along the path, 0 being the beginning point, 1 being the end point. Aurium fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Feb 5, 2021 |
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Feb 5, 2021 07:53
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SEKCobra posted:Oh right, that did the trick. But now I'm stuck on how to move my part to align with that plane, like how do I match the rotation/plane? Assuming your whatever has a planar face you can align it with, Modify -> Align is trivial. Afterwards the move/copy tool will probably just work.
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Feb 5, 2021 08:36
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mobby_6kl posted:8 inches is small? This is very unsettling. For context the Prusa mk3 is 9.8x8.3in. (250 x 210mm). While delta beds are round, so the area is a bit smaller, it's still a very usable size.
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Feb 7, 2021 05:47
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SpartanIvy posted:They make a kit that extends the X and Y axis too. You can extend your ender in all directions! I'm looking for a W axis extension. I've looked everywhere.
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Feb 9, 2021 05:44
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Doctor Zero posted:I've finally started using PrusaSlicer for FDM prints and I have to say you guys are crazy.... I usually use gyroid. It's fun to watch, even if it is slow to slice. It also has a few other nice physical and mathematical properties. Cubic is probably 99% as good. Is faster to slice and to print. I'm probably going to start using the newly introduced (v2.3+) support cubic and adaptive cubic, as they have the potential to be much faster, use less material.
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Feb 10, 2021 23:28
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I've found my new favorite ender 3 mod https://youtu.be/useH77MNs58
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Feb 11, 2021 21:08
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If you have access to a laser cutter, they make great custom stamp makers. The k40 and it's ilk were originally designed as stamp engravers.
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Feb 13, 2021 19:56
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I found a small channel with a couple of interesting 3d printer related videos electroplating prints for better strength: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cp_EOxEyNHs 3D printing Ultralight Metallic Microlattices: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpO5DgiCgyM
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Mar 15, 2021 06:04
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They're often the same, though poor adhesion can be at the center of a part, or a print breaking completely free, even if it isn't warped. Warping is pretty much always from the outside corners breaking free and improving the surface usually eliminates it in pla. For abs it's more of an issue because you really can't improve the print surface enough to eliminate it.
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Mar 16, 2021 20:16
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