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lilljonas posted:Lots and lots of samurai. What rules do you use with these? I'm considering getting into 6mm samurai warfare, but I'm having a really hard time figuring out where I can get a rule set that makes sense.
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Mar 12, 2015 12:02
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lilljonas posted:E: give me a shoutout if you go for it and need any terrain, and I'll give you a goon deal Well, now you've pretty much forced me to buy a bunch of tiny, tiny soldiers. I'll PM you when I've looked through everything.
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Mar 12, 2015 19:19
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I painted two minis, and rediscovered how much more enjoyable it is to paint a single mini that it is to crank out 15 identical ones. I tried two color blending for the first time ever, and I'm pretty pleased with the result. I also finally really tried out my homemade gold colors. I'd say they look pretty good.   I'm still pretty new at this so any critique, suggestions or comments are very welcome.
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Apr 1, 2015 10:10
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Admiral Joeslop posted:Is there an easy way to mix metallic paints like silver with another color, say a nice blue, to get metallic blue? Or would it be better to find specific blue metallic paint? I don't have much practice with mixing. Vallejo has a metallic medium, but I don't know how good it is. Alternatively you could get some aluminium powder and mix it into the paint. I have done it like that and it works pretty well.
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May 30, 2015 08:28
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I like painting eyes this way: http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/12. You pretty much just paint the eyes before the rest of the face so you don't have to fight the shakes.
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Aug 13, 2015 18:34
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I want to add some snow to my Frostgrave bases, but I just can't find any Woodland Scenics anywhere around here. What's the best alternative? I could probably get some Noch snow from one of the local model train stores, but I don't know if it's any good.
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Aug 19, 2015 09:20
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SRM posted:I use Gale Force Nine's snow, which you can usually find at a hobby shop, but it's basically repackaged Woodland Scenics stuff for more money. Have you tried any crafts stores like Michael's? There's a chance they'd have Woodland Scenics stuff in their modelmaking sections. Their website at least shows bags of grass and stands of trees and stuff. I should probably have said that I'm in Denmark. We only have one chain of hobby shops and it's no good. But I can get Gale Force Nine stuff, so I'll go for that. Thanks.
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Aug 19, 2015 16:30
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Cross post from the oath thread.Electric Hobo posted:
I'm pretty happy with this guy, but it was a bitch to photograph since the light from my lamp screws up the painted light a bit..
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Aug 23, 2015 10:19
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BULBASAUR posted:Big rear end basing post.
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Aug 26, 2015 14:29
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krushgroove posted:Hell, I paint right over static grass on my ebay rescues. Why would varnishing static grass be a bad thing? Don't know. People have just told me that it looks like poo poo. It's good to know that I can do paint it however I want with no problem.
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Aug 26, 2015 16:05
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BULBASAUR posted:I've never heard this or had trouble with it. As with most painting things, if you use thin layers and thin your varnish you shouldn't have problems. I spray my varnish through an airbrush though so maybe that's a factor? I airbrush my varnish too. I've just always placed the grass after I varnished since I didn't want to mess anything up. Granted, the people who said never to varnish your grass aren't even close to the level of skill and experience that's in this thread, so they were just dead wrong. At least I know better now 
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Aug 26, 2015 22:15
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A Spooky Skeleton posted:I'm working on some of my first Chaos dudes! So far I'm having a good time painting and am fairly satisfied with what's coming along but would love a little help. It's a bit hard to see what's going on in the photos. Next time, keep your lamp in front of the figures so we can see what's going on. That said, they look a little flat, so give them a wash and marvel at your sudden talent. I'd use a dark brown for the red and a lighter brown for any bone. Bone is highlighted by mixing in some white, red is highlighter with a purer red or a reddish orange. Don't highlight with red mixed with white unless you want a pinkish look.
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Oct 26, 2015 16:06
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I sometimes glue a small piece of wire onto the tiny annoying part, then drill the bigger part so I can use the wire as a guide.
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Nov 14, 2015 22:43
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:Hello painting nerds I have a new painter style Q for you: Show us a couple of pictures so we can see what's going on.
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Nov 20, 2015 23:23
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I
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Dec 21, 2015 12:37
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DJ Dizzy posted:Im in denmark, so I can easily get AP sprays. Testors is also available, never heard of Halfords. Where do they have Testors in Denmark? I've never seen it around here.
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Jan 15, 2016 07:23
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DJ Dizzy posted:Show-fow.dk only place I know of that carries it. Thanks! Who the gently caress closes their online store because they're counting all their stuff? Don't they know how a webshop works?
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Jan 16, 2016 12:46
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The Dark Project posted:Is there still an Oath thread going on? I don't see it in TG. But I could also be blind so... Right here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3717315
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Jan 18, 2016 15:40
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I make agitators whenever I have some green stuff left over. I figure those won't mess with the paint.
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Jan 28, 2016 08:57
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What's the fastest way to get superglue off of Mantic's restic figures without dissolving them or killing me in the process? Will denatured alcohol do the trick? I bought a used copy of Dreadball and there's just so much glue everywhere 
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Feb 19, 2016 14:57
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I completely forgot about the freezer trick. I'll give it a try and then try with acetone if the large blobs doesn't come off.
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Feb 19, 2016 15:26
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Another glue removal question: is it possible to dissolve plastic glue that hasn't bonded to anything? It's slathered all over the Mantic restic that I mentioned before so it isn't stuck to the models. I also need to remove some huge blobs from a bunch of clear plastic bases, but the glue has bonded to them. Am I better off just throwing them away and buying some new ones?
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Feb 20, 2016 12:22
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That's what I thought Sometimes I hate buying second hand stuff.
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Feb 20, 2016 13:31
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What's up with Prodos' models? I cleaned up a few Warzone Resurrection models as usual, but the primer just beads right off of them like on a Bones model. Are they made of some weird material?
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Feb 26, 2016 12:13
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Yeah, I washed them in warm soap water, then cleaned them with cold, clear water. They say on the official forum that you don't need to wash the models because of their 'special' release agent, but there's no way that isn't bullshit. It's about 25c where I work today, the sun heats the place up like crazy, so that's not the problem. Vallejo's airbrush primer didn't work even if I didn't dilute it at all, so I had to use some of their thick dropper bottle primer, and it still wanted to bead up even with a 5:1 primer-water ratio. Guess I'll try a couple of other figures to see if they're any better.
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Feb 26, 2016 15:00
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Does anyone know a good tutorial for painting pale, greyish skin? I have trouble enough getting regular skin to look good, but this is just killing me.
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Mar 10, 2016 11:14
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Cross post from the oath thread. I have to say that I'm really pleased with how this guy turned out.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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Mar 18, 2016 16:21
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There's a pretty good guide for glazes here: http://youngwolf7.com/?page_id=1448 The guy uses 1:12 paint to medium for his favorite mix, so you need a lot more medium.
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Mar 29, 2016 12:26
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Cross post from the oath thread:Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete! The marble looks pretty good, if I do say so myself, but mostly if you're 5cm away. At normal viewing distance it becomes a muddy blur, so I guess I'll save it for display pieces if I ever do something like that.
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Apr 15, 2016 15:08
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I was trying to make scale appropriate marble, since I usually think that the pattern in the kind of marble that that guy is painting is too big for the scale. But I'll say that the more 'coarse' pattern works better, simply because you can see what it's supposed to be at a glance. I guess I'll try to find a happy medium between the two. Edit: The way he makes it is the same way I've done it when restoring really old stuff, right down to the brush and pattern size. That's probably why I consider it too big for 28mm models; It's real human sized. Electric Hobo fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Apr 15, 2016 |
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Apr 15, 2016 16:19
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Something that might be useful for people on a budget who still want some of that sweet, sweet airbrush priming and varnishing. When I started painting I primed with a cheap crap airbrush, a pressure regulator from ebay, and one of these guys, modified as an air supply:  Pump it up, prime 4 models, pump it up again. Worked great for a year, for next to no money. Then I bought a compressor and I haven't looked back.
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Apr 19, 2016 17:07
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Unzip and Attack posted:Ok guys, this is my 4th or 5th real attempt at painting a mini since I picked the hobby back up a year or so ago. Please give me some feedback on what I did wrong here and what I can improve on. Thanks! I'd say it doesn't look bad, but It's hard to see anything. Put a lamp in front of it, a piece of paper behind it and take another photo so we can see what's going on. Is the gloopiness at the bottom of the axehead a casting error? You should thin you metals more if it isn't.
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May 12, 2016 09:47
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Just unpacked my Scale 75 gold color set and found this undocumented color.
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May 12, 2016 10:58
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spectralent posted:That's going to be the spanish label for it. Nope!  They call it Necro Gold everywhere except on the label.
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May 12, 2016 11:54
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Geisladisk posted:Does anyone have a guide to brush care? My brushes last for a very short time, which makes me reluctant to buy good ones. The OP has you covered. Just go to http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3705692&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1#post442594505 and scroll up to get right to it.
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May 18, 2016 13:00
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Oath thread cross post. These models are pretty fun to paint.Electric Hobo posted:Oath complete!
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May 26, 2016 16:16
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sassassin posted:The normal colours I've used (not many) are better than the metallics, which are thin and separate like crazy. KPC_Mammon posted:This is true. I have to mix whatever is on my palette whenever I load up my brush. Weird. Mine don't separate on my palette at all. They really need a black/brown undercoat if you want them to cover properly though. It's good paint IMO, the gold set has pretty much replaced Vallejo's Liquid Gold for me.
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May 30, 2016 20:46
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I finally made a wet palette after procrastinating for a year. Turns out I'm an idiot and should have made one long ago. It's just so drat nice to work with.
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Jun 11, 2016 21:10
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signalnoise posted:Is there a go-to method for protecting minis that you expect to be knocked around a lot? I want to paint some board game miniatures but I don't have room in the box for foam and gently caress getting battlefoam or whatever. Like is there a sealer that's stronger than the rest? Most boardgame plastics are so soft and light that they cant hurt each other's paintjob at all. I had the figures in my Battlelore 2. edition stuffed into bags and nothing happened at all. I'm a little more careful with the harder stuff from CMoN and such, but the figures aren't the real problem, the giant stack of cards and cardboard that smashes around the box is. Just make sure that can't happen and you'll be fine. That said, I'm going for individual boxes line with foam washcloths for each clan with my Blood Rage. I'm a terrible hypocrite.
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Jun 12, 2016 19:12
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Chill la Chill posted:So I'm considering getting some Vallejo liquid metals because I heard they were really smooth and I might try some of that nice European style metallic painting over NMM for once. What are the tips and tricks for working with them and can I still paint with normal acrylics over the alcohol based paint? Any paint that gets in the wrong place can easily be removed with a bit of alcohol, but the alcohol will strip your acrylics, so varnish before you paint. There's no alcohol left when the paint is completely dry, so you can varnish or paint over them. But varnish will kill the lustre, so you might want to do a final highlight after any varnish. At this point I honestly prefer Scale 75's metals for the convienience and great result they give. Bit Vallejo's are great, they just take a bit getting used to.
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Jun 16, 2016 16:41
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