Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

big_g posted:

I'm currently working on a 1:48 scale WWII Corsair.

First off a coat of shiny shiny aluminium.

A coat of future and hair spray later some base colours added to the mix.

Could you go into more detail about how you got this look above? I am new to painting but this is exactly the blue I want to get for a model I have.

# ¿ Mar 16, 2015 03:01

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:18

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Geisladisk posted:

Vallejo Model Air are pretty weird.

They're sold as airbrush paints, but I picked up Steel not realizing it was for airbrushes, and it's amazing. It's really thin, but covers like nothing I've seen before. I then picked up their Gunmetal, Gold, and Tin metallics, and they're all just watery goop which covers really badly - Which I guess is fair enough, since they're airbrush paints. But after the nirvana of Steel, I was really disappointed.

Is Steel just the outlier here, and if so, are there any other great colors in there for brush-painting?

I did the same thing with the VMA hull red, and it turned into an awesome mahogany colour that was great for leather and wood effects when used over white primer. I am going to try some others. Please post again if you find others that work like that.

# ¿ Apr 19, 2016 02:15

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Avatars of War is having a summer sale. Prices reduced and free shipping.

Just ordered some of their nice dorf rangers.

http://www.avatars-of-war.com/eng/web/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&prodcode=pl07&prodname=Dwarf+Pathfinders&id=118&Itemid=53

# ¿ Jul 28, 2017 16:19

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

I'm looking for a large-ish (like 1" or more) dragon or animal heads that I can incorporate into a fountain I'm building. The only ones I can find are sized for a 28mm body and so are too small. Anyone know of a source?

Ideally I'd like something like the head with this mini, only upright and with it's mouth open.

https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones/sku-up/77039

# ¿ Nov 22, 2017 21:09

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Dr. Gargunza posted:

Maybe check the kids section at Michael's. They usually have a rack full of toys, to various scales, but there's a good chance you might find a cheap toy with a head you can lop off.

...Or maybe just a toy store in general. Which should've been my first answer. I'm really crashing from caffeine deprivation and I can't believe I'm still at work.

Good idea, thanks!

# ¿ Nov 23, 2017 03:38

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Where's a good place to buy brushes and pigment online in Canada? None of my local places have a good selection, and meeplemart seems to be constantly out of stock.

Secret Weapon has what I want, but the shipping, customs and exchange rate are :canada:

# ¿ May 29, 2018 16:13

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Ceebees posted:

So i bought two citadel pots of gold paint a couple months ago, and do these things just go bad sometimes? Both of them, the pigment completely separates from the medium overnight, to the point where i think i'm getting tennis elbow trying to thrash them back into shape. On the gehenna gold, the coverage is bad, but at least i can layer it in five or six coats without losing too much detail (and this is regardless of under layer, it's the same on black, medium grey, or smurf blue). The Auric gold, if i so much as touch the brush to water to thin it, it turns into more of a glittery glaze than a paint; even straight from the pot it took three layers to get coverage on the highlights of a little skull, by which point it was just a lumpy gold ball.

That's been my experience as well. The only citadel gold I've used that worked decently was the balthasar gold. I recently got a pot of vallejo liquid gold, and while it's kind of a pain to mix up and use, it goes on great and looks amazing.

# ¿ Jun 28, 2018 16:56

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Lord Hypnostache posted:

I was recently in a KoW tournament where I placed like 10th out of 14 competitors, but I did win the friendliest list and best painted army so I decided to take some pictures of my Undead and share them here. The models are by GW, Mantic and Reaper.

This is a really great army. Thanks for sharing pics.

# ¿ Aug 8, 2018 16:39

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Genghis Cohen posted:

Quick question for the experts on here: can I paint metallics over a grey primer? I know it is unworkable over white , but I've never really primed anything but black before.

Just need to know whether to lay down a black base coat under all the metal parts of the models which I am sitting down to paint now. Really should have primed them black!

Citadel paints, if it makes any difference.

Wait what? I have never heard this "no metallic over white" thing before. I paint metal over white all the time and it looks....metallic, like I would expect it to.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2018 14:02

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

TheBigAristotle posted:

Anyone have an Amazon link to a good deal on magnets? Looking for a variety of sizes, for magnetizing Dreadnought arms, mainly, but also some other stuff. Not infantry, for the time being.

I use a dude on ebay.ca named nexusnoah. https://www.ebay.ca/usr/nexusnoah

Not sure if he's any use to people outside canada or not.

# ¿ Oct 31, 2018 17:29

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Conan the Librarian posted:

Can I post pictures here for critique? I painted some Ork Boyz in my interpretation of a Blood Axes scheme. Anyone have suggestions on making these guys better without adding a bunch of time per figure since I'm likely to be painting a whole lot more?

The above suggestions are all awesome. Your models already look pretty great, and in a big mob, will look even better. My $0.02 if you're looking for something easier and quicker that will pop for tabletop photos is just brighten up the eyes.

# ¿ Nov 13, 2018 15:14

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Dr. Phildo posted:

Hell�s Satan�s
Christ Punchers

The Good Bad Guys
The Bad Good Guys
Not chaos, but still p. dangerous IMO guys

# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 19:27

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

crazystray posted:

Just got into this hobby recently. I quit playing video games because it was expensive and taking too much of my time. I am not sure this is better.

Anyhow, here is my first ever unit of mini's, they are in left to right order of when I painted them.

https://imgur.com/a/4bHRaiY

Things I learned:

Good brushes are huge, and uh, try not to destroy them.

A wet pallet is great, but you have to use the right paper, stupid paper that came with it was awful.

Some sticky tack on top of different objects make great mini handles for painting! I particularly liked using a wine bottle, it's way easier to find places to brace my hand or get a good hold and angle, also with small minis on top, you can roll the bottle and they won't touch the table.

A good inside out strategy let me paint faster and not worry about mistakes on places that were going to be layered over anyway.

These look great! I like the bright silvery armour.

One tip is if you put a dab of black paint on the ends of the guns, you can get a decent "open barrel" effect. (As you become more obsessed with this hobby, you'll probably start drilling them beforehand.)

# ¿ Mar 4, 2019 21:24

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

crazystray posted:

Hey thanks! Great tip, I will definitely do this. At what point should I drill barrels, before priming I am guessing?

I've got some Martian Ironearth drying on a base as a test right now, any suggestions on how much or little to get on the feet for a good effect?

Yeah, before priming. Press a tack or pin where you want the centre of the hole to go, then drill with a hand drill.

I've never used Martian Ironearth, sorry.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2019 18:48

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Inspector_666 posted:

I know the "canonical" scheme is the opposing black and white, but I do mine up entirely in gold, skull and cog and I think it looks pretty cool and properly honorific. You should do something with it though, it's a big centrally located detail!

This was taken pre-cleanup/pre-shading and I should probably go back and hit more details (and his backpack still isn't done even now) but just to give you an idea of what I mean.

All of the marks of the Omnissiah are painted gold across every unit in the army, too, which I think helps tie them together.

I did basically the same with mine--all cog/skulls in my army are painted gold. I dont' have a great direct shot but I used the vallejo luquid gold and it really stands out, I think.

# ¿ Mar 14, 2019 19:45

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Like I said a few posts up, I really like the vallejo liquid gold. It's kind of a pain to use, because you have to thin it with alcohol, it requires extensive mixing AND you need to use a synthetic brush, but it always applies super smooth and easy for me.

I'm going to try and get a couple other colours from their liquid line and try them too.

# ¿ Mar 14, 2019 21:17

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Regarding the new GW contrast line, has anyone seen examples of using non-contrast paint over the contrast primer? I'm thinking I want to try some for cloaks etc, but don't want to buy a full line just so I can paint one pouch a particular shade of brown.

So could I prime my mini with the contrast primer, use contrast on the cloak and then my regular brown on the pouch? Or will the the special primer mess with my regular paint?

# ¿ Jun 7, 2019 18:45

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Stephenls posted:

There's an article up today on Warhammer Community from a guy who painted a Fellowship of the Ring in one day by priming them with the new sprays, using contrast on everything but the metal, and then using Leadbelcher on the metal. If Leadbelcher can go fine over the new primers, then it's not going to be a problem with other paint.

Two Beans posted:

There's nothing special about the primer. They're just off-white with one being warm toned and the other being cold toned.

Cool, thanks. I will be trying this out.

# ¿ Jun 7, 2019 19:15

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Bad Munki posted:

I haven't posted here in forever, but here's a WIP I thought you all might like. Basically, I will put lights in any tabletop thing at all given the option. Sometimes, that works out okay. This guy has a TON of space inside and really easy access to a few points of interest, so how could I not?

Two 5mm through-hole neopixels, controlled by a bluetooth LE module, so I can control them wirelessly from my phone. The whole thing powered by a little lipo pack that�ll live inside the body. (In this pic, I'm powering it from an ancient and decrepit Uno because it was a handy way to grab 5V)

I can�t find any boost converters and logic level shifters at the moment, so the lights are stuck on blue at full brightness for now until I can order some.

When it�s done, I�ll have presets to make the eyes flicker like fire, or pulse at various speeds, or perhaps psychedelic rainbow rave mode?

With the lights off, the eyes just look like bottomless sockets, which also works super well for this particular Tabletop Barbie.

Next up: knock out his mouth-hole and figure out how to get smoke coming out of it, or maybe through a couple of his shoulder/head stumps.

This looks awesome! I'd love to see your updates.

I'd like to try putting lights in stuff and the bluetooth idea seems great. Where do you buy your lighting gear?

# ¿ Jul 4, 2019 22:00

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Gunder posted:

Up until now, I've been exclusively using one of those Citadel palette pads, and today I finally got a wet palette. I have a question about using it: What do you do with the thing when you're done painting? I'm talking about after you've finished your current project and might not be coming back to do any more painting for a while. Do you just put the lid on it and leave it to dry out on its own? Do you tip out any excess water and throw away the piece of paper that the paint is currently on? Do you try and clean it in some fashion? It surely can't be a good idea to just put the lid on and leave it, as mould will start to grow eventually, even though my palette claims to have a sponge that contains an anti-fungal agent.

At the moment I'm used to just letting the paint on my dry palette dry up and then just chuck it in with the rest of my painting supplies.

I don't think anyone answered this. I just started using a wet palette as well and would be interested in the answer or any other guides or hints about using wet palettes.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2019 14:35

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Z the IVth posted:

I honestly had no idea. The more you know.

My wet palette is a Warmachine clamshell blister with some paper towels inside on top of the sponge and a replaceable parchment membrane. I don't clean it beyond replacing the paper towels and parchment when they get too contaminated with paint. I washed out the sponge the other day for the first time in 4 years and it wasn't mouldy. It's also never smelled. I keep the lid on when I'm done painting.

Our paints also contain preservatives (in addition to being variably toxic) so I'm not overly worried about mould.

YMMV though if your tap water is dirty to begin with.

Thanks.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2019 22:50

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

jadebullet posted:

Hey guys. I've been working on my Reaver Titan and I need some tips on how to paint the canal wall that he is standing on so that it looks like weathered concrete.

I intend to pour water effects onto the base so I want to make the wall look realistically aged but having never worked with cork or attempted weathered concrete before I figured it would be best to ask for your opinions/ideas.

Thanks

Using dry pigments is a good and easy way to get weathering effects. I'm still learning them, but there are plenty of tutorials around.

# ¿ Oct 22, 2019 15:41

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Eifert Posting posted:

Good lord, I was just looking into scale 75 metallics. The only reason I didn't buy some yesterday is because I had confused them with ak interactive. Hard pass now.

Anyone have a recommendation for brass and gold? I love the model air bright brass but it covers like water.

I love the vallejo liquid gold, but it's a bit of work to get it going. It has actual metal in it, so you need to thin it with isopropyl alcohol or something similar. There are good guides on the internet.

Here's one, for example: http://apaintingchaos.blogspot.com/2012/12/the-vallejo-liquid-gold-paints.html

# ¿ Nov 13, 2019 22:02

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

I said come in! posted:

I discovered a Miniature game called Warpath https://www.manticgames.com/games/warpath/ and have decided to get a few miniatures from this. The Enforcer Accuser Interceptor, and Enforcer Ajax Siege Strider are what I am most excited to paint. So this should be what gets me out of my painting hiatus that has been going since June.

Good luck! I play deadzone and am working up to a warpath army, I'd love to see any pics of your work. There's also a mantic thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3491381

# ¿ Nov 14, 2019 23:29

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

I said come in! posted:

Do you happen to know if there are assembly instructions anywhere for these figures?

I have the strider and it didn't come with any instructions. It wasn't too hard to figure out though. Not sure about the interceptor. There are instructions online for the enforcer infantry figures if you have any of those.

# ¿ Nov 16, 2019 00:26

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Verisimilidude posted:

Any good sources for hordes of particular types of minis, like orcs, skeletons, etc? GW works out to around 3-4 bucks per model, and nolzur's is around 2, but I'm wondering if there are even cheaper alternatives out there.

Funnily enough, GW is good value for kobolds if you're willing to proxy skinks. They're about $2 each.

edit: otherwise, I like Mantic for mobs more than reaper.

# ¿ Jan 13, 2020 20:58

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

BULBASAUR posted:

30K crosspost. This project took me about a year:

Those are really nice to look at.

# ¿ Jan 27, 2020 19:55

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

TKIY posted:

Making progress on my modular paint rack system!

https://www.facebook.com/105067340992500/posts/126011418898092/

These look cool. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2020 15:12

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Harvey Mantaco posted:

/\
I'd go with the blue and orange scales. Seen it before and looks really cool.

Actually while we're on it recently finished painting up 30 of the knights. If they release a new knight model with the new book I might have a stroke.

These look really nice. I love the pale green metal bridle.

# ¿ Feb 13, 2020 20:37

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Geisladisk posted:

I got one half of a AOS starter for free and speedpainted some of them for a Warcry warband.

I've never liked Stormcast models, but giving them less goofy helmets and a more down to earth color scheme makes them quite nice.

I also hate their pseudo-gun-crossbows - they have crossbow arms, but no bowstring. They even have a charging handle like a gun, and some have detachable box magazines. :confutoot: . So I just cut the arms off, and my guys have full-on guns. Magic guns.

Also, those guys are gigantic. Taller and broader than a primaris space marine, probably over 3m tall in-scale.

These look really nice.

Where did you get the helmets?

And is that the contrast paint for the armour?

e: wrong question

Seldom Posts fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Feb 24, 2020

# ¿ Feb 24, 2020 21:45

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Geisladisk posted:

The helmets are 3d printed.

I took the helmet from this guy: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/chevalier-harkyn

The other one is from a Heroforge miniature. I found a helmet I liked and ripped the helmet off the model.

The bases are printed as well, from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3090558

I put some grit on them to give them texture and hide the 3d printed texture.

The metal is Vallejo Steel with a layer of contrast Basilicanum Gray used as a heavy wash.

Thanks! Appreciate it.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2020 16:35

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Cat Face Joe posted:

please, my bases, they are very dull

if all the rocks in the American southwest are one colour I don't know what it is. Maybe post a picture of the colour of rock that you are thinking of?

# ¿ Mar 25, 2020 18:25

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Mistaken For Bacon posted:

Speaking of the backflow method of mixing paint and thinner in the airbrush cup... Is this bad? It's not really possibly with the Patriot 105, not without drawing blood at least, and I'm not planning to paint any Khorne armies anytime soon

Just block the needle with a paper towel.

# ¿ Mar 25, 2020 23:27

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Prince Reggie K posted:

So back in 2007 a buddy talked me into buying 2 boxes of Battle for Skull pass, and he bought all the goblins off me and I kept the dwarfs. They sat for many years and then about a year or more ago I bought an army painter set and began painting minis for the first time. (other than spray painting space marines in highschool, dabbing on some red and metal and calling them done) Here's a few shots, including the first mini I've ever done a real base for. Not pictured here are a bunch of thunderers with handguns im working on. I'm batch painting the entire army so very few models are "finished"

]

Nice work here. I also started with battle for skull pass minis and your first efforts look better than mine did.

# ¿ Apr 13, 2020 14:06

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Slimnoid posted:

Finished up some Hero units for my KoW Undead army.

Looking good.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2020 04:18

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

So hopefully I can get an answer before the forum crashes and burns:

Can someone recommend an airbrush that is decent for detail work on minis? I have a badger Patriot 105 that is great for priming, base coating, terrain, and vehicles, but I'd like one for the small fiddly spaces. Preferably no more than $300.

Does such a thing exist?

# ¿ Jun 25, 2020 00:56

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

always be closing posted:

Iwata hpcs

Perfect, thanks!

# ¿ Jun 25, 2020 01:18

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:

I’ve heard good things about the Badger Sotar!

Thank you!

# ¿ Jun 25, 2020 15:03

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Sab669 posted:

Not to toot my own horn, but I think the Ork Flesh contrast looks absolutely beautiful over a silver base

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MfW2ishT5qVHjdh46

Although as you also said, Contrast does not look good on flat surfaces, even small shields never mind full vehicles;

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WYnn91dKcxqCQRbk7

So if anyone knows a way to make a good metallic green that will work on large flat surfaces, please please please tell me

This is theory, as I haven't tried it, but maybe this, mixed with green: https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/product/hobby/auxiliaries-model/metal-medium-70521/

# ¿ Jul 24, 2020 13:35

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:18

Seldom Posts: Jul 4, 2010; Grimey Drawer

Sab669 posted:

Also what's a black that coats really well? I bought some Army Painter black and it's so thin it doesn't cover well at all. I think I've heard the new Abaddon Black from GW is also not as good as whatever their old black used to be called?

I find the vallejo blacks cover pretty well. I use the metallic air black and it's great. Have also heard good things about the GW contrast black.

# ¿ Aug 25, 2020 15:55

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